Mineral Make-Up - just hype and clever marketing?

Every so often, the cosmetics and beauty industry markets a new beauty regime or product. Whilst mineral make-up has been around for a while now, few have heard of it other than the experts and professionals in the field, and those discerning few who actually take care in what they put on their skin for the sake of beauty.  People think mineral means natural, so they are drawn to it. Many people find out about mineral make-up when they want to 'go green' with their cosmetics. With the current interest in safe, natural, and organic products, the mineral make-up approach is very popular. Without doubt, this trend is an increasing one.

The Ancient History of Mineral Make-up
Mineral makeup got its commercial start in the 1970s with some of the really early all-natural make-up products. But its history is as ancient as the human desire to enhance one's looks. Mineral make-up is a return to technologies that have been in use since ancient times. Many ancient cultures used ground-up natural minerals as a means of applying colour to the skin for decoration, camouflage, war paints, etc. Cleopatra's kohl-rimmed eyes are an example. However, the history of mineral make-up no doubt goes back much farther, even to early cave-dwellers.

So who first successfully marketed the concept? One pioneer was Diane Ranger, the cosmetic chemist who founded Bare Escentuals in 1976 and later started Colorescience Pro, another mineral line. She developed her first mineral cosmetics because she felt there was a need and market for natural ingredients and a natural look and feel.

In 1976, cosmetics firms were required to list ingredients on their products for the first time and there was a shock as to the extent of the ingredients in them. The growing desire for natural cosmetics coincided with the increasing number of women who identified themselves as having sensitive skin. Add in marketing and media awareness, and an ageing baby boomer which all mattered.

What's in Mineral Make-up?
Minerals such as iron oxides, talc, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide are micronised, or ground and milled, into tiny particles to create make-up. Different products micronise to different levels. A product micronised to six times leaves minerals larger so they go on the skin with a light to medium coverage. Products micronised 12 times create fine-sized particles that sit closer together and offer more coverage.

A key difference from conventional make-up is what's not in mineral make-up. It generally does not contain the emollient oils and waxes, fragrance, and preservative ingredients found in conventional formulations. Mineral products are usually preservative-free and since they have very low odour, they are often also fragrance-free; preservatives and fragrance are often what cause irritation.

To ensure you're buying a quality mineral make-up product, read the label. If it says "mineral-enriched" or if the formulation is liquid or mousse, these products may contain ingredients such as preservatives (which are vital) or dimethicone which is sometimes added for a smooth texture. Items that aren't powders might also contain moisturisers, antioxidant vitamins, or other ingredients for your skin. It's your choice.

The Benefits of Mineral Make-up
The benefits of mineral make-up have many women flocking to try it - and it isn't just all hype. One popular claim is that it can clear up acne. It's unlikely that mineral make-up will clear up pimples which can be caused by many factors including changes in hormone levels. The anti-irritating ingredients like zinc can be soothing to inflammation, but it's not likely a cure-all. The lack of the filler ingredients found in conventional make-up however, can lead to less pore clogging. That can mean fewer breakouts.

Unfortunately, there are no studies to date on this especially those that are reliable and reputable. However, if you are putting on moisturiser followed by sunscreen and then on top of that foundation topped with powder, you are more likely to have clogs. Therefore it is unsurprising that skin problems arise. Quite often, consumers feedback saying that mineral make-up does not make acne worse but it doesn't make it better either. So despite the calming effects of zinc, mineral make-up is clearly better for acne than any other kind of cosmetics. Therefore if you have acne, a recommendation would be to using skin care products targeted for pimples.

Another claim is that mineral make-up acts as a sunscreen to protect skin from sun damage. The protective claims for zinc oxide (the white stuff your local lifeguard paints on his nose) and titanium dioxide, usually found in powder blends, do have some research behind them. The FDA has approved zinc oxide as a skin protector and titanium dioxide as a sunscreen.

Importantly however, no mineral make-up is going to give you enough SPF to protect you against damaging ultraviolet rays. Some brands claim that the product has confirmed SPF factors. However, it's unclear how much powder is needed  to get full protection. Having the SPF in the mineral make-up is a benefit, but it’s extra. But this would apply to all commercial skincare products anyway. It is certainly advisable not to skip sunscreen and if, for example, you are going to sit outside at lunch and don't have time to entirely reapply your face (moisturiser, sunscreen, and make-up), you can dust on a coat of mineral powder with SPF for extra protection.

Mineral Make-up: Is It Worth It?
When it comes to mineral make-up's supposed skin-soothing properties, it is anti-inflammatory, however the calamine lotion you use to calm a rash is basically zinc oxide coloured with iron oxide, both of which are in mineral make-up. But there's no proof of this claim or indication of how much product you need for that result.

What about the claim that it's so gentle you can sleep in it? Mineral make-up's light-as-air feel is part of what makes it so popular, and tempting to sleep in. However, all good skincare specialises would advise against this  as sleeping in make-up of any kind encourages the formation of clogs and irritation.
Mineral make-up might not last as long on your face or be as durable as conventional make-up because it doesn't contain standard cosmetic ingredients such as binders, waterproof polymers, and other 'stick-to-your-skin' agents. True mineral make-up is limited in its natural range of shades, so it may be difficult to find a perfect skin tone match.

What is pure mineral make-up?
Minerals in make-up make-up are more than just what gives it the colour. It is made from microscopic flat crystals that overlap one another on the skin to crate a filtering layer that allows the skin to breathe. It also protects your skin from environmental pollutants. It even protects your skin from getting sunburn with a broad spectrum of sun protection. Which is why its can be the best type of mineral powder foundation for your skin. But be careful and check for ingredients such as talc. That can not be good for your skin. In addition to the minerals and inorganic pigments, your mineral make-up can also include natural preservatives antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, nutrients, and, of course, sunscreens. Mineral make-up is often recommended by dermatologists for anyone who has sensitive skin and wants to cover up acne, scars, and rosacea. All that protection from a pure item from the earth, but just what is in mineral make-up?

Listed below are some of the more common ingredients found in basic pure mineral make-up:

1. Titanium dioxide. This is your natural sunscreen as well as an anti-inflammatory agent. It’s great for people with acne, rosacea, inflammatory skin conditions, as well as post-surgical or post-chemical peel skin. It’s ideal for sensitive skin and perfect for all skin types. Note that it may not give you enough sun screen protection, so wear your sun screen before going outside.
2. Zinc oxide is also a natural sunscreen that provides broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection. Even though it is also a natural sunscreen, it still will not give you all the protection you will need, so again, be prepared to still use your moisturiser with added SPF 25 or higher sunscreen.
3. Mica. This is the mineral that gives your mineral make-up sparkles. It comes in a variety of hues starting from pale green, brown, black, silver, and gold, to even being colourless. It is what reflects light off your face, creating an illusion of smoother, softer, more radiant skin. It’s known as your natural glitter. It also adds shimmer and lots of colour!
4. Kaolin clay. This is the mildest china clay used in creating cosmetics. It also offers great oil absorbing properties, without irritating your skin. It also helps your make-up stay where you put it. Kaolin clay is a better choice for your skin overall than talc.
5. Iron oxides. This is a natural mineral, and it also adds colours to your mineral make-up. There is more than one type of iron oxide.
6. Serecite. This is a fluffy, translucent mineral that provides a silky texture. It is colourless and often used in setting powder (when creating your personal recipes either as a business like Overall Beauty Minerals or as your own, you add it last to give your make-up staying power). It’s white, but goes on clear. It has been used as a primer and adds water resistance and fade/crease-proof qualities to the make-up.
7. Silica. This is a mineral from flint and quartz used to absorb oil and improve the feel of the product you are wearing.
8. Ultramarine pigments. These are derived from limestone containing the blue mineral lazurite. These pigments are your blues, violets, and others, and are very strong pigments, so very little needs to be used when creating colours.

Note: Carmine. This may only be a problem to those who are vegetarians and vegans, due to the fact that it happens to be a crushed extraction from a beetle. Now, if that is something that you want to stay away from, then do that. It’s more of a personal choice than something that’s bad for you. Carmine is found in many brands due to the fact its the most well known natural red out there. And I put it here under what not to find in your mineral makeup do to the fact that you can not call your brand vegan, if you are using carmine. And carmine can be found in a ton of things, from blushes, eye shadows, candles, the toothpaste you use if its tinted red. Next to cosmetic dyes its one of the most common way to create reds, and pinks.

So, now we know what is likely to be in mineral make-up, what about all the ingredients that really shouldn't be in them? These are all well known ingredients found in a ton of brands of make-up. They also can be a issue for those who want to wear mineral make-up but they want something that is as pure as possible. In my opinion there is no need for cheap fillers.

Here is a list of cheap fillers, ingredients that are in a lot of major brands. These are known additives and cheap fillers that saves the creator of the mineral make-up brand money, but may cause you problems.

1. Talc (magnesium silicate), is a common filler, and can cause respiratory problems. Talc will dry your skin (think, what does baby talc do?). We are talking about the exact ingredient. It will also accentuate those fine lines and wrinkles you are trying to hide.
2. Boron and bismuth oxychloride. Both are well known skin irritants and can cause itching, rashes, and cystic acne breakouts.
3. There could be FD&C dyes, which can cause acne when used in a skin care item.
4. Imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea are not that well known, nor should they be used in a true pure mineral make-up. Being that mineral make-up is minerals, there is no real need for preservatives, which both of these are. They are the most commonly used preservatives, after parabens, and is also the primary cause of contact dermatitis.
5. Parabens (methyl-, propyl-, butyl-, and ethylparabens) are used to extend the shelf life of beauty products. They have been know to cause allergic reactions and skin rashes for women. Whilst there is a need for preservatives, parabens have had a lots of bad press unfairly so in my opinion. Much of this is about discrediting them in favour of more 'natural' preservatives which ironically mixes the natural substances with combinations of parabens in order to extract them from natural sources. I have already written about parabens in an earlier post entitled: The Truth about Parabens: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/truth-about-parabens.html

Other ingredients to watch out for:

1. Ferric Ferrocyanide. There are some brands that use this, which is a subject of controversy due to its toxicity. It is what gives more greens and purples their colour. If its not lip safe colour? Then you will probably find this ingredient in it.
2. Starch powders and flours like rice flour. These are a few more super cheap fillers which can cause respiratory health risks and may even increase acne production and breakouts.

For more information, please go to: http://overallbeauty.com/beauty-blog/2013/09/15/just-what-are-minerals-in-mineral-makeup/ or http://www.webmd.com/beauty/makeup/the-lowdown-on-mineral-makeup.

Facial Oils

There are numerous benefits to replenishing the skin with some of the best plant oils made commercially available in the cosmetic industry. The relatively recent interest in facial oils is just one of the many examples of the powerful benefits of these amazing plant oils in the quest to preserve skin health and promote skin beauty.
Contrary to the recent interest in facial oils here in the West, they have been utilised in other parts of the world far longer and embedded in some of the most ancient global beauty traditions (see my earlier posts on global beauty: http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/global-beauty-traditions.html). Modern technology and science has given us a greater understanding of these plant oils notably their chemical constituents. This has enabled many of the commercial high street brand to replicate them and produce synthetic alternatives which sadly hold a fraction of the benefits but preferable to those who are cash-strapped and want a cheaper facial oil product.
Plant oils are a favourite of aromatherapists too - see the chart below to appreciate their full benefits and some are chosen over others particularly in the treatment and management of a host of skin problems (too many to mention here!). The properties of jojoba oil has been discussed in an earlier post: http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/jojoba-oil.html

It may seem counter-intuitive to apply more oil to already shine-plagued skin, but it turns out that not all oil is evil. Oil-based facial products can actually work wonders on all skin types, even the most sebaceous. Here are four surprising things you may not know about face oils, plus our product picks.

How face oils work: Oil products contain essential fatty acids your skin needs to stay properly hydrated, but your body can't produce them on its own. Oils also act as the skin's lipid barrier, protecting against extreme temperatures, dry climates, and over-cleansing.

Switch from a cream to an oil (especially in winter): Cream moisturisers are usually water based, or a mix of oil and water. They're great for keeping problem-free skin balanced and moisturised. Face oils, however, contain a more powerful, purer, and often more expensive form of nutrients that are the perfect solution for skin in distress. And that lipid barrier we mentioned helps skin heal and repair itself much more quickly. They also lock in hydration better than water-based creams. So when the air gets cold and dry this winter, making the switch to a heavy-hitting face oil can save your skin from irritation, redness, dryness, and breakouts.

Fight oil with oil: The oil your skin produces is much different than the pure plant oils in a facial product. Your skin starts pumping out sebum (the stuff that clogs pores and causes breakouts) when its oil content isn't balanced. So if you strip your skin's natural oils by over-cleansing, your body will actually produce more oil to compensate. But a quality face oil will replenish your skin with the essential fatty acids and moisture it needs. When balance is restored those overactive sebaceous glands take a breather, leaving skin healthier and clearer.

Why quality oils are worth the price tag: When buying a face oil, you really get what you pay for. Cheaper oil products often contain less refined, more processed ingredients with fillers and additives, whereas more expensive oils tend to be purer and more effective. Look for pure organic oils of rosehip, argan, jojoba, apricot kernel, avocado, macadamia nut, and calendula to get the most benefits. And remember, although a good face oil may seem pricey, it's highly concentrated, so a few drops go a long way. 

Facial oils made my Centella have been formulated with sound knowledge of these properties in mind. Designed to be used for intensive moisture treatment so can be applied sparingly after cleansing in the morning or more popularly at night either on its own or before applying Centella’s Replenishing Night Cream. This product has been formulated with carefully chosen plant oils containing a wealth of skin-nourishing benefits including camellia, argan, baobab and marula oils, all with excellent skin restorative and moisture-retentive properties. Enriched with the aromatic fragrances of rose, geranium and lavender.It is a rich, botanical facial oil to nourish, replenish and protect. Active ingredients include: peach kernel oil, evening primrose oil, cotton seed oil, rosehip oil marula oil (Sclerocarya birrea), baobab oil (Andansonia digitata), argan oil (Argania spinosa), camellia oil (Camellia sinensis), geranium essential oil (Pelargonium roseum) and lavender essential oil (Lavandula angustofolia). There are numerous other natural and organic facial oils that are comparable but it is best to see advice from a skincare specialist or a skin health specialist before purchasing. Ultimately, choice may be dictated by price but there are superior alternatives which can be reasonable priced and price does not always guarantee quality! Given the many cosmetic and health benefits of plant oils, it is undoubtedly a valuable investment in any skincare regime.

For more information on how best to apply facial oils and how to incorporate them into your daily skincare regime go to: http://oneloveorganics.com/blog/2013/09/how-to-best-apply-facial-oils-and-serums/

Facelift Foods

No need for needless surgery and expensive cosmetic procedures to defy the signs of ageing - nature has bestowed upon us an amazing array of foods to combat wrinkles and to maintain a youthful glow. Every single cell in the body is built, maintained and repaired by the materials supplied from the daily diet. Food really is the ultimate key to healthy, beautiful and radiant skin that defies ageing and quite possibly something that can reverse the signs of ageing. However, making sure that the correct ingredients are supplied on a daily basis can be somewhat of a challenge given the demands of modern living and the endless assault on the skin by the elements, not to mention the modern diet. Luckily, there are many foods that can reverse the damage or prevent it in the first place.
Previously, it was thought that ageing was largely a genetic influence with seemingly very little that one could do to limit or delay that process. The fashionable trend was to resort to cosmetic surgery (at great expense) by a skilled surgeon and a distorted ageing of the face and the rest of the body with time. now, however, the latest research reveals that genetic factors are only a small part of this ageing with a bigger influence being played by our environment (eg. pollution, sun damage), lifestyle factors (eg. smoking, drinking) and diet. Good news for those who are needle shy and lacking in coffers!
I have previously written about free radicals and antioxidants (http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/cardinal-rules-for-wrinkle-free-skin_28.html) - they play a large part in how cells age and decay. Oxidisation to a skin cell is like rusting to a car; the slow decaying process caused by reactive oxygen molecules. There is also the formation of wrinkles caused by collagen fibres in the skin linking together, these cannot be undone; the only cure is prevention with a diet that inhibits this 'cross-linking' of collagen.

The sugar connection

There are many studies to support the idea that sugar in the diet is a major cause of wrinkles and skin ageing. Dietary sugars cross-link collagen fibres together in a process referred to as glycation. It is this glycated collagen (Advanced Glycation End-Product or AGE) that causes accelerated ageing. Collagen is responsible for giving skin its firmness, resilience and smoothness therefore cross-linked collagen is a definite no for youthful looking skin. Unfortunately, some foods already contain these AGEs so every time they are consumed, there is an addition of AGEs to the body. Current research shows that even the same food cooked in different ways can become an age accelerator for example, simple boiled rice has an AGE factor of 1 whereas crispy rice cereal has an AGE factor of 220 which is infinitely higher. Lacking important nutrients in the diet could also act as a double whammy to the skin ageing process, for instance, being short on zinc, vitamin B complex can accelerate cellular decay, not to mention the host of deficiency symptoms of all the vitamins and minerals if intake is inadequate.
So what can be done about preventing this ageing or at the very least delaying it? Take a look at the top 10 foods identified to be of most benefit in skin health and anti-ageing.....

Top 10 Facelift Foods

1. apples - very rich in a well documented anti-ageing phytochemical called quercetin. This antioxidant is a flavonoid with research to support its rejuvenating effect on skin cells.
2. mangoes - high in vitamin A, vital for skin health. Also rich in vitamin C which is another key skin nutrient.
3. avocadoes - rich in one of the key skin nutrients; vitamin E which can absorbed easily and readuily into the skin (hence the popular reason why it is included in so many skincare products)
4. hemp seeds - rich in essential fatty acids which boosts skin suppleness by preventing them from drying (and hence ageing from damage and wrinkles)
5. pumpkin seeds - high in the mineral zinc which is necessary in the biological fight against cellular decay. They also contain essential fatty acids and vitamin E, making them a great beauty food.
6. grapes - the skins of grapes contain a very powerful antioxidant called resveratrol which has been shown to be effective in the war against those skin-ageing 'free radicals'. Resveratrol plays a key part in mopping up these free radicals which cause oxidative damage to cells, one of the main causes of ageing at a cellular level. 
7. garlic - the wonders of this herb are too long to mention in this blog alone but suffice it to say that is is incredibly effective as an anti-ageing ingredient. It is high in organic sulphur compounds; sulphur being renowned for its reputation as a beauty mineral. Taken as a supplement, it has also been shown to raise skin-plumping collagen levels (which sadly slows down in production rate with age)
8. spices - cinnamon, cloves and ginger have been shown to inhibit AGE cross-linking collagen which is all good news for keeping skin youthful.
9. nuts - especially brazil nuts, cashews and almonds which are all rich in anti-ageing arginine (an amino acid). Arginine improves the appearance of skin, hair and nails as well as collagen production.
10. cacao - the tastiest of all the anti-ageing nutrient. Raw cacao (chocolate) is very rich in quercetin and arginine (two of the most important anti-ageing molecules.

For more information on facelift foods visit Star Khechara's homepage: http://www.starkhechara.com/ 

Guide to Men's Skincare Regime

Men's skincare products is a growing business and men's grooming is definitely a growing trend. Some say women are the more sensitive than men, and it’s definitely true when it comes to your face.
Men’s facial skin is typically thicker than women’s and less likely to be sensitive to ingredients in facial cleansers and moisturisers. Skincare is also usually a simpler routine since men typically don’t wear make-up. But shaving is another story. For men with heavy beards or curly or kinky hair, irritation and razor bumps can be a big problem. With proper face care, though, those hazards can be made a thing of the past and a clean, smooth face can become a welcome daily occurrence.

Bar Soap or Liquid Cleansers for Men
Most men prefer bars to liquid cleansers. That’s fine as long as you have normal or oily skin. But bar soap tends to dry skin out more than liquid cleansers. If your skin feels tight or a little itchy after you wash your face, try switching to a liquid cleanser. If you insist on bar soap, look for moisturising soaps with emollients such as glycerine. Many are made with vitamin E oil, olive oil, or jojoba oil.
You may experience problems with acne if you have very oily skin. Acne is caused by excess oil production that clogs pores, causing inflammation. Look for soaps or liquid cleansers that contain salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or benzyl peroxide. All three of these exfoliating agents remove the upper layers of dead skin and allow for deeper cleaning of pores. They also have antibacterial properties.

Moisturisers for Men
Some soaps are laced with moisturizer, and for some men they work just fine. But the surest way to moisten your skin after washing it is to apply a moisturizer.

• For dry skin, choose a cream, which is the thickest formulation.
• For normal skin, reach for a lotion, which is lighter and less oily.
• For oily skin, choose a skin toner or gel.

If you have problems with acne, moisturisers that contain glycolic acid or salicylic acid will help remove dead skin and keep your pores from clogging, dermatologist Carolyn Jacob, MD, says.

Sunscreen Protection for Men
Lots of facial moisturisers promise to keep your face young, but not all of them deliver.

A lot of products these days tout the fact that they contain antioxidants. Theoretically, they should help. However, sunlight and pollution cause oxidative damage to skin. But so far, we don’t have any scientific evidence one way or the other that says antioxidants at the level contained in skin products really help. Prescription-strength products with retinol (Retin-A) do smooth out fine lines and wrinkles and even reverse signs of aging at the cellular level. But the lower levels of retinol found in over-the-counter products may not be high enough to do much good. You’ll get far more protection over time by making sure you use a face moisturiser with sunscreen in it every day.

Anywhere your hair is thin also needs to be protected against sun damage. That includes bald spots and receding hairlines. The best bet is applying sunscreen. Choose a spray-on sunscreen if you don’t like the idea of putting lotion on your head. Some hair sprays, gels, and mousses now come with SPF protection. An even safer option? Wear a hat when you’re out in the sun. Many dermatologists recommend an everyday moisturiser with SPF-30.

Shaving Products for Men

The traditional shaving kit is still a favourite
among some of the younger generation!

Most men find a comfortable way to shave and stick with it. If you’re still suffering nicks, cuts, razor burn, or razor bumps, it’s time for a change. If your face gets irritated from shaving, try a shaving cream with aloe. Try lathering up with a little extra water and leave it on your face for a minute before you shave to soften beard hairs. Pre-shaving oil is another solution. Applied several minutes before shaving, the oil helps moisturise skin and soften beard hairs. For razor bumps, which are caused by ingrown hairs, look for a shaving cream that contains glycolic acid or salicylic acid, exfoliating agents that unplug pores. Look for hypo-allergenic products without fragrance to avoid further irritating your skin. More important than shaving oils or creams is the razor you use. Electric razors are less likely to irritate than blades. But if you prefer a blade, choose a single or double-bladed razor. Skip those multi-blade brands that promise the closest possible shave. If you have trouble with razor burn and razor bumps, you don’t want a very close shave. It’s better to leave a little growth in order to avoid ingrown hairs. Shave in the direction that hairs grow, not against the grain, which can cause more irritation. Some razors come with a built-in moisturizing strip, and many men swear by them. The best bet is to use an aftershave lotion to soothe facial skin and then apply a moisturiser. Look for moisturisers with glycolic acid or salicylic acid. If over-the-counter solutions don’t work, talk to your doctor about laser beard hair reduction, which can be targeted at troublesome areas.

Astringents for Men
Aftershave lotions and toners contain astringents that tighten the skin, narrowing the pores and creating a firmer skin barrier. Witch hazel is an inexpensive solution that can be used to take the puffiness out of lower eyelids after a night of carousing or a red-eye flight. Keep cotton swabs soaked in witch hazel in the refrigerator for handy use after a long day or to refresh in the morning. However, avoid toners and astringents that contain alcohol, which causes dryness.

Grooming Moustaches and Beards

Many stylists recommend using a fine-tooth comb to straighten moustache hairs before trimming.  Try a mustache wax if your mustache grows unruly. Waxes clump the hairs together and make them easier to comb into shape. Use hair conditioner to manage a beard. If you’re going for a well-manicured look, use a small amount of styling gel.

The skin benefits of oatmeal

A bowl of piping hot oatmeal is perhaps a healthy way of starting your day. Though, this cereal is most commonly eaten for breakfast, it has multiple uses and benefits. Oat (Avena sativa), is basically a cereal whose seeds are edible and are known by the same name. This cereal originated in Scotland and was a staple diet of the Scottish whose meals comprised of cooked oats. Apart from consumption by humans in the form of oatmeal and rolled oats, this cereal is also used as livestock feed. 

Oats are different from wheat in the sense that oats are largely grown for their seeds while wheat is a type of grass. Besides, wheat products are only used for baking, whereas oats are eaten by humans as oatmeal and rolled oats. Most of the cereal grains contain gluten and oats is no exception. However, the gluten in oats, known as avenin, is different from that in wheat as it can be tolerated by some people with coeliac disease. Oats are generally contaminated with gluten at the farm where they are produced. Moreover, oat grouts hardly contain gluten and can be ground to make flour.

Oats: Skin Benefits
Apart from consumption, wild oats have an important role to play in skincare. They were used as early as 2000 BC by the Egyptians and Arabians to beautify their skins. Oat baths were largely used by the ancient Greeks and Romans for healing skin ailments. Some of the benefits of oats for skin are as follows.

Treatment of Acne:
Cooked oatmeal is a great natural remedy for treating acne. For this purpose, boil some oatmeal till it softens and let it cool for 15 minutes. Apply it on the affected area and rinse off after 10 minutes. This will absorb and remove excess oil and bacteria from your skin and exfoliate dead skin cells, thus helping to combat acne.

Removes Dryness:
Oats are effective in fighting dull, flaky dryness as they contain polysaccharides, which become gelatinous in water, thus forming a fine protective film when applied on skin. Besides, this cereal is effective in addressing dry skin symptoms like itchiness, rashes, scales, peeling etc. To get rid of dryness you can make a facial mask by mixing a smashed banana with a cup of ground oatmeal and adding some lukewarm milk. Stir it properly to make it smooth and apply it all over your face for 10-15 minutes. Rinse off with cold water. This will help in replenishing the skin moisture, thus keeping it soft and hydrated.

Skin Moisturiser:
It acts as a natural moisturiser by removing the dead skin cells. It contains beta-glucan that forms a fine film on your skin as well as penetrates deep into the skin to provide much needed deep moisturizing to your skin. Besides, it enhances wound healing and shallow abrasions and improves collagen deposition and activation of immune cells within the skin. You can add a cup of milk, two cups of oats and a tablespoon of honey to moisturize your skin as well as relax your body.

Relieves Itchiness:
Oats have anti-inflammatory properties and are suitable for all skin types. They are clinically effective in healing dry and itchy skin. Oats ground into powder are known as colloidal oatmeal. This powder can be mixed with warm water to form a thick paste and applied over itchy skin to get immediate relief form intense itching. An oatmeal bath is also effective in healing a number of skin conditions including dry itchy skin. Thus, oatmeal can be used in curing neurodermatitis, a skin disease characterized by itchy or inflamed skin.

Skin Lightening:
Oats are known for their skin lightening effects as well as improving the skin tone and texture and smoothing out blotchy areas. It is increasingly used in cosmetology in various skin care products such as body scrubs, soaps, exfoliation creams and general body lotions of reputed brands.

Treatment of Poison Ivy or Chicken Pox:
Oatmeal has been used for thousands of years for treating eczema, poison ivy, insect bites and skin infections due to its anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and anti-itch properties. For relieving the itchiness caused by poison ivy or chicken pox or even sunburn, grind oats or oat flour into a fine powder and pour it into a cheese cloth. Tie it around the bath tub faucet and squeeze out water periodically to have a tepid bath. You can also rub the pouch on the itchy skin.

Natural Cleanser:
Oats contain natural cleansers called saponins that can remove dirt and oil from the pores without causing irritation, thus leaving behind soft and silky skin as well as reducing pore size. Instead of facial scrubs, oatmeal can form part of your skincare regimen as it is effective in getting rid of dead skin cells that build up in the pores. Oats can be soaked in water to prepare oat milk which is a natural toner and cleanser. You can store this milk in a bottle in your fridge and apply it on your face with a cotton pad after face wash to smoothen and soften your  skin. Oat bran bath is also effective in cleansing your skin and pores. Place ½ cup of oat groans or rolled oats in some cloth and tie it to make a small bag. Place it in your bath tub and press the bag until the oatmeal milk comes out. This can be used on your body or face instead of soap for mild scrubbing.

Skin Protection:
The proteins in oatmeal help in maintaining the skin’s natural barrier function and protect your skin from harsh chemicals as well as skin conditions like eczema, rosacea and rashes. The lubricating fats in oats are a great moisturizer that makes a protective layer over the skin to fight UV rays. In this way oatmeal helps in relieving symptoms of ageing skin.

Oats: Hair Benefits
Oats are good for hair as well. When applied topically, they can make your hair soft and strong. Some of the ways in which oats can be beneficial for your hair are as follows.

Treatment of Dry and Itchy Scalp:
As stated earlier, oats are beneficial for dry skin and the same goes for hair care as well. Being a natural moisturizer, it can be applied on hair to get rid of dryness and itchiness and make your hair soft and shiny. It is often used as an ingredient in shampoos.

Treatment of Dandruff:
Oatmeal can be combined with other ingredients and applied on your hair before shampooing to get rid of dandruff.

Removes Excess Oil and Dirt:
Being a natural cleanser, it clears the scalp by removing excess sebum, oil and dirt accumulated in the scalp.

Combats Hair loss:
Hair loss can occur due to a number of reasons such as alopecia, harsh chemical treatments, hormonal imbalance or unhealthy lifestyle. Malnutrition, that is deficiency of essential vitamins and minerals, is the most common cause of hair loss. Oats contain high amounts of zinc, iron, magnesium and potassium that promote hair growth.  A meal comprising of oats, berries and pumpkin is a rich source of vitamin C, vitamin A as well as other nutrients. Vitamin C prevents scurvy, a disease that can also cause hair loss. Vitamin A, on the other hand, promotes hair development and maintenance.

Great for Blond Hair:
Ground oats can be an excellent dry shampoo for blond haired beauties. All you need to do is rub some ground oats over your scalp and brush out excess oats with a boar bristle brush.

How to Select and Store?
Selection: Proper selection is essential to ensure that you get the maximum benefits from this cereal. It is advisable to buy oats in small quantities because this grain has a higher fat content than other grains and hence, goes rancid more quickly. Nowadays, oats are available in pre-packaged containers as well as in bulk bins. While purchasing oatmeal, always look at the ingredients list on the packet to ensure that the product does not contain salt, sugar or other additives. Always prefer to buy rolled oats or oatmeal from health shops. When purchasing bulk bins, ensure that the bins are covered and free from debris and moisture. Moreover, the store should have a good product turnover to ensure that the product is fresh.

Storage: Proper storage is also a vital factor to ensure that the product retains its freshness and flavor till it is used. As far as oats are concerned, rolled oatmeal like all other grains, should be kept in an airtight container to prevent moisture and vermin intrusion. It should be stored in a cool dark cupboard for up to three months or refrigerated for up to six months. Oat bran has high oil content and therefore, should be refrigerated. Oat flour has a slightly longer shelf life in comparison to wheat flour as oats contain a natural antioxidant that discourages rancidity. Oat flour should be refrigerated and used within three months. Make sure that you use your oatmeal within the expiry date stamped on the package.

Ref: http://www.stylecraze.com/articles/amazing-health-benefits-of-oats/#

Jojoba Oil

Jojoba oil is a MUST in any skincare regime but more so in the natural skincare industry. It is no surprise it is highly sought after for formulations given its unique chemical properties. It is a versatile oil and has many uses beyond skincare. This post looks at why jojoba oil has enjoyed a longevity in many industries, particularly the skincare one and why new possibilities are opening up for this amazing oil.

Skin health is maintained by an oily (waxy) secretion called sebum; 25-30% of the skin's sebum is made up of wax esters. The prime role of wax esters is to hold moisture in the skin, which keeps skin looking and feeling firm. As we hit our early 20's, our production of wax esters starts to decrease, allowing moisture to escape from skin cells. This begins the ageing process of skin. Jojoba is the only plant known to produce wax esters similar to those in our skin. Jojoba is naturally hypoallergenic and contains powerful antioxidants, Omega 6 & 9 fatty acids, and Vitamins A, D and E. Remarkably, when applied to  skin, the wax esters in jojoba provide similar nurturing and moisturising properties as our own sebum. Skin recognises jojoba as its own and lets it in to deliver active ingredients into the deeper layers of our skin. 

A Remarkable Molecule
The natural wax esters found within jojoba are similar to the wax esters found in our skin. This can be seen when you compare the molecular structure of jojoba with the wax esters found in our skin. Pure jojoba provides the same protective a nd nurturing benefits to our skin as it does to its own plant cells.
The seeds (nuts) of jojoba that come from the jojoba plant contain up to 60% of their weight in oil, which is best isolated by cold pressing of the seeds.   The golden ‘jojoba oil’ obtained is really not an ‘oil’, but a ‘ liquid wax’.  Its structure is devoid of glycerine, the backbone in the structure of all oils and fats.  Jojoba liquid wax is called an oil only because it is a liquid.

• Jojoba oil is a clear, golden-colored, unsaturated liquid wax with no scent or greasy feel. Jojoba oil gives little or no calories when consumed as it does not have any large amounts of the fatty acids which are normally in the structure of fats and oils. This liquid wax remains a lubricant in the digestive system and definitely has no cholesterol.  However, the word oil is used because it is simpler to accept due to the fact that it looks like an oil, and the word liquid wax is not as easy to accept for the consumers

• Different than jojoba oil, plant oils and solid fats are triglycerides with a glycerine backbone from which different fatty acid branch out – like a tree.  To emphasise further the differences, jojoba oil  is only called an oil because it is a liquid-like.  Jojoba oil is a straight 42 carbon atom chain unsaturated ester of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, each of which is made up of 20-21 carbon atoms and thus the fatty acids in jojoba oil are not 16-18 carbon atoms of the fatty acids commonly found and known in various oils and fats.  

The Major Uses for Jojoba Oil:
Jojoba oil uses may be summed up in three main categories:

1. Natural cosmetic uses by using it "as-is", as if it is a liquid cream, a hair oil, or massage oil.
2. Industrial cosmetic uses, by using it as an improver and constituent of shampoos, conditioners, body lotions, creams, soaps, lipstick, etc.
3. As an industrial oil, as an improver of lubrication oils of cars, aeroplanes and various machines, and also as a surfactant improver of paints, varnishes, plastics, waxes, etc.  In waxing, it can be used "as-is" or mixed with other waxes. 

The uses of jojoba oil were initially limited for its use as-is for treatment and beautification of facial complexion and hair and then it was included in the various cosmetic industries. The jojoba oil which is obtained as a second grade oil from the remaining by-products of the jojoba seed pressing using chemical extraction by hexane or cyclohexane  solvents of jojoba cake residue (called jifit) is used only for industrial uses, mainly lubricants.  These uses include waxing of materials, and the improvement of car oil as jojoba oil withstands high motor oil temperature.  This is so because of the high boiling point of jojoba oil which is 389 degrees Celcius.  It has a great capacity to prevent oil oxidation and it is effective in preserving car motor oil's viscosity and that of other motors for a long period which in turn increases the motor life, and its efficiency under the high temperature and pressure uses.  About 50 ml of jojoba oil per litre of the car's motor oil or transmission oil is generally used to extend the use of car oil to 20,000 kilometres of driving before it has to be changed.

Therefore, with the need for huge quantities of jojoba oil for the lubrication industry, especially for cars and aeroplanes, even if huge land areas in various parts of the world are planted with jojoba, the oil produced from it will not be sufficient to meet all the needs of various industrial uses. All this in addition to the special and unique utilization of jojoba oil to treatment of skin diseases and the various industrial cosmetic uses as that of shampoos and the many creams for beautification of face and hair and the prevention of facial and neck wrinkles.  Jojoba oil in all of these cosmetic uses is more superior and distinctive over seed plants oil and animal fats and the many synthetic chemical substances which are added to cosmetics for their marketing using costly advertisements.

Jojoba oil use as a cooking oil remains limited because of its high cost and it seems it will remain relatively expensive for some time because the quantities produced worldwide from jojoba trees are very limited.

Q. Why should one use Jojoba Oil, and what are its benefits?

Q. What are the general scientific benefits?

There is a justified trend world-wide to use natural products because of the fear of introducing carcinogenic changes in the human body and on the skin through  synthetic chemicals.  Jojoba seed oil is natural and when produced organically is safe for the human body.  Its major use "as-is" for facial and hair cosmetic products is desired as an effective and good selling point for such products because of the following:

Because it penetrates into skin rapidly without leaving any oily traces within only a few seconds as it is a straight unsaturated ester chain of fatty alcohols and fatty acids which is unlike the branched fatty oils. Also, jojoba oil resembles the oil of the skin known as sebum.  It is so immediate in this rapid penetration that one may think it evaporated, but really it did enter the skin – and what enters the skin is what really gives a true benefit.  Thus, this oil keeps the skin and hair from drying.  It is a reliable remedy against nappy rash for babies.

• Jojoba oil prevents chapping and rash, and prevents wrinkle formation if used as a night cream.  
• For the hair, it keeps it smooth and silky with a slight shine and prevents hair fall-out.  
• For massage, it is soothing and relaxing and helps in the relief of pain.

Jojoba oil which is chemically a liquid wax, as mentioned previously, is mostly undigested and because it is edible, it can act as a lubricant to the digestive system without being degraded into calories.  Thus, when used in frying and cooking it is a diet oil.  Only organic, i.e. chemically-free, jojoba oil as that of the natural Palestinian jojoba oil should be used in cooking foods and in salads because it is free of all chemicals and 100% natural.  Again, because of its property that it does not boil up to the very high temperature of 389 degrees Celcius because it has high concentrations of the antioxidant tocopherols of the Vitamin E group. ,

Jojoba: A Potential Desert Oil Crop

Jojoba is a new oil-producing industrial crop that has attracted much attention in recent years. Jojoba oil is unique in nature. No other plant is known to produce oil like jojobas. It is used in the cosmetic, medical, pharmaceutical, food products, manufacturing, and automotive industries (as lubricant). And it is a renewable energy resource. It is remarkable to note that, in spite of the variability in size or where grown, each jojoba seed contains an average of 50% pure oil by volume. Jojoba is native to the semiarid regions of southern Arizona, southern California and northwestern Mexico. Now Jojoba is being cultivated in Israel and Rajasthan, India to provide a renewable source of unique high-quality oil. Much of the interest in jojoba worldwide is the result of the plant's ability to survive in a harsh desert environment. Jojoba can be grown as an oil-producing cash crop. Jojoba is very drought-resistant and can be grown on marginal lands without replacing any existing crops. Fully mature shrubs or trees can reach a height of 15 feet with a potential natural life span of 100 to 200 years depending on environmental conditions. For optimum production, the crop needs irrigation, care, and a good cultivar.

The arid lands of Rajasthan are all set to usher in a revolution in Indian agriculture, with planned large-scale cultivation of the exotic jojoba plant. Rajasthan government has allotted 110 hectareof wastelands including 70 hectares at Fatehpur in Sikar district and 40 hectares at Dhand in Jaipur district for jojoba plantation.   Jojoba plantation project was formulated in 1995 for a period of five years, with a revised financial outlay of around 670000 USD to be met by central assistance. Jojoba in the country is now being grown in an estimated area of about 500 hectare and the area is increasing every year. The production estimate for this plantation is 25 million tonne. About 90% of the jojoba cultivation is in Rajasthan.

Technologists and scientists believe that jojoba oil shows a lot of promise as an alternative source of fuel. It releases a lot of energy when it burns. The driving force to find such fuel source stems from the need to find an alternative fuel to petroleum oil. In addition to this, the renaewable nature of jojoba is a very attractive prospect indeed and it can produce less pollution. Jojoba oil also appears to be promising with regards to its cultivation in the relatively hot weather. Considering Jojoba’s potential as an oilseed feedstock for biodiesel, it is possible to establish this untapped resource as an alternative source for the biodiesel industry of future.

The History of Jojoba
Jojoba began receiving serious attention in the early 1970’s, with the enactment of the Endangered Species Act.  The Sperm Whale, considered an endangered species under the parameters set up by this Act, became protected to the extent that no sperm whale oil could be imported into the US.  Up until then we had been importing 55 million gallons of the oil each year.  Sperm whale oil is currently stockpiled, for use in national emergencies.  The head of the Sperm Whale contains vast quantities of sperm oil (actually an unsaturated wax) and a solid white wax called spermaceti.  The Sperm Whale’s blubber contains ever more sperm oil.  A large Sperm Whale can yield several tons of the oil and the
wax.

Without the Sperm Whale as a source of these materials, a search for substitutes began.  Synthetic substitutes are difficult to produce, so other natural sources were investigated.  A fish known as the Orange Roughy makes a similar oil, but it has been so overfished that it could not be counted on as a long term solution.  The Jojoba plant was considered too.  People have been using Jojoba for a long time. Early Spanish explorers found Native Americans roasting the seeds for a coffee-like beverage, and observed them squeezing oil from the seeds for use as a hair dressing and medicine.  Mexican historian Francisco Clavijero was the first person to write about the species in 1789, and used the word “Jojoba”.  It probably is a corruption of the Native peoples’ name for the plant.  It has been known since 1933 that its seeds contain an oil (50% by weight) almost identical in chemical composition to sperm whale oil.  Prior to the Endangered Species Act, however, it was more economical to get the oil from the Sperm Whale.  Interestingly, Jojoba was seriously considered as a source of oil earlier.  Experimental plantings were established at the Boyce Thompson Southwestern Arboretum in Superior Arizona in 1925, and Jojoba oil was used during WW II in motors and transmissions for military equipment.  After the war ended, petroleum became plentiful, and Jojoba oil use declined.  Jojoba is the only plant known to produce this oil, composed of fatty alcohols and fatty acids instead of glycerol and fatty acids like most oils.

Today there are an amazing number of potential uses for Jojoba oil.  They include: cosmetics, lubricants for everything from artificial hearts to watches, motors, and transmissions, low-calorie cooking oil that does not become rancid, antifoaming agents in fermentation, candle wax, polishes, coatings for fruits and pills, insulation for batteries and wires, varnishes and paints, detergents, plastics and resins, leather softeners, transformer coolants, and more.  Despite all these potential uses, almost all the Jojoba oil produced goes to the cosmetics industry for use in lotions and shampoos.  At hundreds of dollars per gallon, few other uses are economically feasible.  In fact, even the cosmetic industry uses other natural oils and petroleum products as substitutes for Jojoba oil.  Petroleum is very inexpensive by comparison.  Many believe that if the price of Jojoba oil would drop, many new markets for it would open.

Native Americans extracted the oil from jojoba seeds to treat sores and wounds centuries ago. Collection and processing of seed from naturally occurring stands in the early 1970s marked the beginning of jojoba domestication. In addition, the ban on the importation of sperm whale products in 1971 led to the discovery that jojoba oil is in many regards superior to sperm oil for applications in the cosmetics and other industries.

Today, 40,000 acres of jojoba are under cultivation in the southwestern U.S. Much of the interest in jojoba worldwide is the result of the plant's ability to survive in a harsh desert environment. The utilization of marginal land that will not support more conventional agricultural crops could become a major asset to the global agricultural economy. The oldest commercial jojoba plantings in the U.S. were established in the late 1970s, and present production of jojoba oil is in the range of thousands of tons per year. The major world producers are the United States and Mexico, with considerable quantities of oil being exported to Japan and Europe.

Why is Jojoba oil so expensive?
Collecting the seeds from wild stands is very time consuming, and the harvest is unreliable from year to year.  The commercial growing of Jojoba began in earnest in the 1970's.  Native Americans (Apaches, with Federal subsidies) and traditional farmers started the first Jojoba plantations.  But, get-rich-quick schemes attracted a wide assortment of individuals into the Jojoba growing business.  Most efforts failed, and that put a damper on the whole industry.  There were several reasons for the failures in what could have been a successful industry.  There was limited information on the cultivation techniques necessary to make large-scale plantations profitable. Insect and disease control, fertilization and irrigation needs, harvesting strategies and frost damage prevention had to be learned on a trial and error basis as the crop grew.  The single most limiting factor, however, was the low yield of Jojoba plants grown from seeds collected from wild stands of the species.  There were no cultivars selected for agricultural production available to those early growers.  A bit of Jojoba botany will illustrate the problem.  Jojoba shrubs are dioecious, meaning there are male and female plants.  Breeding and selecting superior male plants (that produce abundant pollen) and superior female plants (that produce abundant seeds) has been a slow process.  Once superior plants are identified, they can be cloned by vegetative propagation and planted on a large scale.  A field ratio of one cloned male for every 10-20 cloned females would significantly increase the yield as compared to a seed grown field with a male to female ratio of 1:1.  An improved yield could earn more profits for the growers, and reduce the cost of the oil for the buyers.  There is still a dire need for research on crop production and improvement. There is some activity in this area at the University of Arizona in Tucson, and the University of California at Riverside.  Jojoba oil production is nevertheless increasing.  In the 1970’s, several thousand acres were being cultivated in the US. In the 1980’s, 25,000 acres were being grown.  In the 1990’s that increased to 40,000 acres, and today it approaches 50,000 acres.  As the oil has found markets outside of the US, including Europe, Asia, and Australia, foreign production has begun.

Jojoba is now commercially grown in Argentina, Australia, Mexico, Israel, and India.

Biotechnology may offer a way to produce Jojoba oil in other plants at competitive prices.  The genes that code for the enzymes involved in Jojoba oil biosynthesis have been identified and inserted into transgenic plants.  The intention is to develop Jojoba oil producing plants that can easily be grown in conventional agricultural systems.  Time will tell if this will be practical.  The Jojoba story is far from over.  It may just be in its infancy.  The plant’s versatile oil can be produced in a sustainable, renewable, and environmentally friendly manner.  There are many potential markets for it that have yet to be developed.  As our ability to produce it becomes more efficient, we will undoubtedly hear more about Jojoba.  One wonders how many other plants in nature, currently overlooked, may be important to us in the future.

Website References:
http://www.jojobassaf.com/whatIsJojobaOil.html 
http://faculty.ucc.edu/biology-ombrello/POW/jojoba.htm
http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/afcm/jojoba.html

Information Sources:

• Benzioni, A. and M. Forti. 1989. Jojoba. Pages 448-461 in Oil Crops of the World. G. Robbelen, R.K. Downey, and A. Ashri (eds.) McGraw-Hill Publishing Company; New York. 553 pages.
• Bloomfield, Frena. 1985. Jojoba and Yucca. Century Hutchinson Publishing, London.
• Foster, K.E., M.M. Karpiscak, J.G. Taylor and N.G. Wright. 1983. Guayule, jojoba, buffalo gourd and Russian thistle: Plant characteristics, products and commercialization potential. Desert Plants 5(3):112-126.
• Jojoba Growers Association. 1990. Jojoba Happenings, Newsletter of the Association. Phoenix, Arizona.
• National Research Council. 1985. Jojoba: New Crop for Arid Lands, New Raw Material for Industry. National Academy Press, Washington, D.C.
• Naqvi, H.H., G. Goldstein, C. Ratnayake, T. Ceccardi, and I.P. Ting. 1988. Jojoba breeding and agronomic investigations at UC Riverside. Proceedings: Seventh International Conference on Jojoba and Its Uses. A.R. Baldwin (ed.) American. 
• Weiss E.A. 1983. Crambe, niger and jojoba. Pages 507-527 in Oilseed Crops. Longman; London. 
• Yermanos, D.M. 1979. Jojoba: A crop whose time has come. California Agriculture. July-August 1979. pp. 4-11.

Vitamin D for skin health

I never thought I would ever be writing about a deficiency disease in a western country but the last few years have seen a steady increase in the number of cases of rickets in children and osteomalacia in adults as a consequence of vitamin D deficiency. Whilst this is surprising, given the relative abundance of foods in the UK (compared to the poverty stricken nations of the developing world where rickets in children is still an issue), very few people realise that getting this vitamin from food is actually only a part of the acquisition process of this essential micronutrient. To appreciate the true importance of this vital vitamin, we need to understand its role in the body and the consequences of not having enough of it, particularly on a long term basis.

Vitamin D is not only a nutrient, it is also a hormone. It is made from an essential component of cholesterol and therefore a key constituent in steroid hormones; cholesterol is needed for the production of the male and female sex hormones (oestrogens and androgens). Crucially however, vitamin D is needed for the absorption of calcium which is essential in growing children in order to strengthen their developing bones. A failure to absorb calcium leads to the classic hallmarks of rickets or 'bow legs' that develop when the weight-being joints (hips, backbone and knees) and associated bones cannot support the increasing weight of the developing body. Vitamin D in the form of D3 (or cholecalciferol) is one of the many naturally-occuring vitamins. The greatest source of this vitamin is the sun, being made upon the skin being exposed to the sun (hence the term 'sunshine vitamin'). It is the UVB rays (ultraviolet B) that convert cholesterol to vitamin D3. Darker skins need more UVB due to the protective elements of melanin; the rays have to penetrate the skin deeper in order to have the same effect as in a fair-skinned person. Direct exposure is necessary so sitting indoors is not good enough as the glass offers some filtering and depending on the type of glass, UVB may not even get through. 2-3 exposures of sunlight per week (20-30minutes an episode) in the summer months (April-September) is the recommended dose to achieve healthy vitamin D levels that last through the year. This is not the same as sunbathing and possibly not in the afternoon as the sun is much stronger at this time of day and can burn the skin. Morning sun is best.

In its hormonal role, vitamin D3 (now referred to as calcitrol) produces a steroid hormone called secosteroid which pays an important part in the regulation of the levels of calcium and phosphorus (another important mineral for the body). Vitamin D3 also helps to regulate bone mineralisation.

What's really shocking is that even health professionals are unaware of the government's guidelines and health education programme on this need to advise patients on vitamin D intake. Given that the issue of rickets in UK children was highlighted as a concern over 2-3 years ago, it is worrying to learn that even more recently, professionals remain ignorant of the need to educate and inform. What has really brought this issue to the forefront of course is a legal case against parents of a child who died of rickets (diagnosed after death) being wrongly accused of murder. Even senior radiologists were unable to spot the clinical features of rickets which was later attributed as the cause of death.

At risk groups:

• pregnant women
• breast-fed babies (infant formula has been fortified with vitamin D)
• young children (especially those under 5 years of age)
• dark-skinned individuals
• elderly people who are housebound
• those who are ill & bed-ridden
• those who stay indoors a lot
• those who cover up (for religious, cultural or other reasons)

Other diseases linked to lack of vitamin D:

• cardiomyopathy (a disease of the heart muscle) - babies
• hypocalcemic fits ((low serum calcium levels) - babies
• SIDS (sudden infant death syndrome)

Fear of Skin Cancer?

Recent fears over skin cancers and excessive sun exposure has probably contributed to the concern over exposing children to direct sunlight. Over the years, recommendations have always focussed on the risks of sunlight in favour of its enormous benefits and this increase in cases of rickets may well be a consequence of the advice being taken too far.

Use of Sunscreens

Many parents worry about the damaging effects of the sun but this is only possible if adequate precaution is not taken eg. over exposure in strong sunlight (between 10am-4pm in the summer months) for long periods of time, not in short bursts. Over protectiveness and a fear of danger which stops children playing outside and the excesive use of sunscreen has probably contributed to the health issues associated with a lack of vitamin D particularly the increased incidence of rickets in children.

Strategies for tackling the problem:

The solution is really very simple. Take steps to get more vitamin D! In the first instance, if the deficiency is severe, supplementation (sometimes in the form of injections) of vitamin D3 is essential. Thereafter and as a management strategy, dietary measures should be implemented to include foods containing natural forms of the vitamin. In plants, vitamin D exists as D2 and is only really found naturally-occurring in shiitake mushrooms. Most other plant food sources have been fortified with vitamin D. The best sources are from animals: fatty fish (mackerel, sardines, trout, herring, tuna, salmon, pilchards) and egg yolk. Limited use of sunscreens and sensible exposure to sunlight on bare skin (face, arms & legs) is vital.

If you are worried about your vitamin D levels, a simple blood test from your doctor should confirm if supplementation is necessary. Symptoms can also be verified through X-Rays and in some cases, bone density scans to check calcium absorption and mineralisation.

For more information and advice, you can visit NHS Direct (www.nhsdirect.nhs.uk/en) or Patient UK (www.patient.co.uk)