The anti-ageing benefits of retinol

When it comes to “anti-ageing creams” and treating lines & wrinkles, there is one ingredient that is head & shoulders above the rest. Despite all the technological advances in skin care, Retinol is STILL the gold standard in anti-ageing!

Retinol is fantastic for treating lines & wrinkles no matter what your skin type or secondary skin concerns. Lines & wrinkles aren’t the only thing this wonder-ingredient can treat though. Retinol has the ability to correct all sorts of skin conditions and concerns including acne, eczema, pigmentation, enlarged pores.

What is Retinol?
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A and part of a family of ingredients known as Retinoids. Vitamin A is a potent antioxidant which has the ability to protect cells from free radical damage thus preventing collagen breakdown. It is also essential for cellular renewal and DNA repair.

Retinol acts like a hormone with the skin, normalising cell function. Therefore encouraging the skin to behave the way it did when it was younger.

Retinoid Skin Care Benefits
Aside from being an effective antioxidant, Vitamin A is essential for collagen synthesis and production. This is why it’s a fantastic ingredient to use when treating lines & wrinkles.

Retinol also normalises cellular turnover. As we age our cell turnover begins to slow down and become more sluggish. So by increasing it, it helps to give a more youthful complexion. By helping to normalise the way new cells are laid down forming the stratum corneum. Anyone who struggles with topical exfoliation should give Retinol a try. It has a similar exfoliating effect, but by stimulating the skins natural desquamation process.

For acne suffers where hyper-keratosis (excess of skin cells being produced) is an issue, Retinol helps to slow down cell production. In other words, helping to regulate or normalise cell turn over to a healthy rate.

Retinol also helps to normalise sebum production by reducing over-active sebaceous glands. So great for excessively oily skins. This regulation of oil production also helps to correct any secondary skin concerns such as acne or rosacea.

The Problem With Retinol
Whilst Retinol is a wonderful ingredient, it does have it’s drawbacks. There are good reasons why a lot of skin care brands do not use it in their formulations.

Firstly, it’s a highly unstable ingredient which deteriorates quickly when exposed to air and light. This is why it’s important to choose a product that uses encapsulated retinol and / or in airless packaging. This helps to ensure vulnerable ingredients are protected and thus remain active.

For example, imagine a product contains 0.5% pure Retinol. If the ingredient has not been protected, then the amount that is available to the skin will be much less. So therefore the results will be affected.

Secondly, it can be highly irritating and not easily tolerated by the skin. Using too much, too soon can cause irritation and over-stimulation. Which is why most over-the-counter skincare brands use such tiny concentrations so to avoid adverse reaction. However they also sacrifice the results from using retinoids.

It’s best to introduce Retinol slowly into your regime. This is another reason to choose a product that uses encapsulated Retinol, thus helping to deliver the Vitamin A to the deeper layers of skin without causing surface irritation.

Are All Retinoids Created Equal?
Vitamin A is such an effective ingredient because it’s recognised by the skin and has the ability to change the cell behaviour. Skin cells have receptor sites that recognise Vitamin A and can metabolise the ingredient. However it’s important to understand that in order for this to happen, Vitamin A has to be in a specific form known as Retinoic Acid. Therefore any retinoid that is applied topically to the skin goes through a conversion process before it can be utilised by the skin cell.

It is possible to apply Retinoic Acid topically in the form of a product called Retin-A (Isotretinoin). However this is a prescription drug and can only be prescribed by dermatologists. Whilst it’s the most effective form of Vitamin A, it’s also the most irritating and likely to cause irritation and over-stimulation.

The stages and order of Vitamin A conversion in the skin are;

• Retinyl Esters (Sometimes shown as Retinyl Palmitate on ingredients)
• Retinol
• Retinaldehyde
• Retinoic Acid

The further away from Retinoic Acid and the more conversion needed. The weaker the effect but also least irritating. The closer to Retinoic Acid and the less conversion needed. The stronger the effect but also the most irritating.

By this principle, in non-prescription skincare, then it’s best to choose a product that contains Retinol or Retinaldehyde (or a combination of the two).

Studies have shown that 0.5% Retinaldehyde is just as effective as 0.5% Retinoic Acid. Except Retinaldehyde is more easily tolerated by the skin and without the localised irritation of Retinoic Acid. [1]

How To Use Retinol Skincare
Choose a product that uses encapsulated Vitamin A and start off slowly. Introducing the product in small amounts with rest days until skin tolerance level is determined.

It’s completely normal to experience some initial dryness or flaking on the third day of using a Vitamin A product for the first time. This is because it takes 3 days for Retinol to be fully metabolise and converted to Retinoic Acid.

Due to the fact that Vitamin A is light sensitive, it’s best to use your Retinol products at night. This avoids the ingredient becoming unstable and therefore ineffective.

Always use a sunscreen whilst using Retinol products. This applies when using any stimulating ingredient on the skin that increases cell turnover and encourages desquamation.

Studies show by combining Retinol with AHA’s helps boost it’s effectiveness, particularly when treating sun damaged / photo damaged skin[2].

Reference:

1. Profilometric evaluation of photodamage after topical retinaldehyde and retinoic acid treatment. Creidi P, Vienne MP, Ochonisky S, Lauze C, Turlier V, Lagarde JM, Dupuy P, J Am Acad. Dermatol. 1998 Dec; 39(6):960-5.
2. Pharmacology of RALGA, a mixture of retinaldehyde and glycolic acid. Tran C1, Kasraee B, Grand D, Carraux P, Didierjean L, Sorg O, Saurat JH. Dermatol. 2005; 210 Suppl 1:6-13.
3. https://andymillward-skincare.co.uk/2015/03/retinol-the-gold-standard-in-anti-ageing-skincare/ 

Guide to Men's Skincare Regime

Men's skincare products is a growing business and men's grooming is definitely a growing trend. Some say women are the more sensitive than men, and it’s definitely true when it comes to your face.
Men’s facial skin is typically thicker than women’s and less likely to be sensitive to ingredients in facial cleansers and moisturisers. Skincare is also usually a simpler routine since men typically don’t wear make-up. But shaving is another story. For men with heavy beards or curly or kinky hair, irritation and razor bumps can be a big problem. With proper face care, though, those hazards can be made a thing of the past and a clean, smooth face can become a welcome daily occurrence.

Bar Soap or Liquid Cleansers for Men
Most men prefer bars to liquid cleansers. That’s fine as long as you have normal or oily skin. But bar soap tends to dry skin out more than liquid cleansers. If your skin feels tight or a little itchy after you wash your face, try switching to a liquid cleanser. If you insist on bar soap, look for moisturising soaps with emollients such as glycerine. Many are made with vitamin E oil, olive oil, or jojoba oil.
You may experience problems with acne if you have very oily skin. Acne is caused by excess oil production that clogs pores, causing inflammation. Look for soaps or liquid cleansers that contain salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or benzyl peroxide. All three of these exfoliating agents remove the upper layers of dead skin and allow for deeper cleaning of pores. They also have antibacterial properties.

Moisturisers for Men
Some soaps are laced with moisturizer, and for some men they work just fine. But the surest way to moisten your skin after washing it is to apply a moisturizer.

• For dry skin, choose a cream, which is the thickest formulation.
• For normal skin, reach for a lotion, which is lighter and less oily.
• For oily skin, choose a skin toner or gel.

If you have problems with acne, moisturisers that contain glycolic acid or salicylic acid will help remove dead skin and keep your pores from clogging, dermatologist Carolyn Jacob, MD, says.

Sunscreen Protection for Men
Lots of facial moisturisers promise to keep your face young, but not all of them deliver.

A lot of products these days tout the fact that they contain antioxidants. Theoretically, they should help. However, sunlight and pollution cause oxidative damage to skin. But so far, we don’t have any scientific evidence one way or the other that says antioxidants at the level contained in skin products really help. Prescription-strength products with retinol (Retin-A) do smooth out fine lines and wrinkles and even reverse signs of aging at the cellular level. But the lower levels of retinol found in over-the-counter products may not be high enough to do much good. You’ll get far more protection over time by making sure you use a face moisturiser with sunscreen in it every day.

Anywhere your hair is thin also needs to be protected against sun damage. That includes bald spots and receding hairlines. The best bet is applying sunscreen. Choose a spray-on sunscreen if you don’t like the idea of putting lotion on your head. Some hair sprays, gels, and mousses now come with SPF protection. An even safer option? Wear a hat when you’re out in the sun. Many dermatologists recommend an everyday moisturiser with SPF-30.

Shaving Products for Men

The traditional shaving kit is still a favourite
among some of the younger generation!

Most men find a comfortable way to shave and stick with it. If you’re still suffering nicks, cuts, razor burn, or razor bumps, it’s time for a change. If your face gets irritated from shaving, try a shaving cream with aloe. Try lathering up with a little extra water and leave it on your face for a minute before you shave to soften beard hairs. Pre-shaving oil is another solution. Applied several minutes before shaving, the oil helps moisturise skin and soften beard hairs. For razor bumps, which are caused by ingrown hairs, look for a shaving cream that contains glycolic acid or salicylic acid, exfoliating agents that unplug pores. Look for hypo-allergenic products without fragrance to avoid further irritating your skin. More important than shaving oils or creams is the razor you use. Electric razors are less likely to irritate than blades. But if you prefer a blade, choose a single or double-bladed razor. Skip those multi-blade brands that promise the closest possible shave. If you have trouble with razor burn and razor bumps, you don’t want a very close shave. It’s better to leave a little growth in order to avoid ingrown hairs. Shave in the direction that hairs grow, not against the grain, which can cause more irritation. Some razors come with a built-in moisturizing strip, and many men swear by them. The best bet is to use an aftershave lotion to soothe facial skin and then apply a moisturiser. Look for moisturisers with glycolic acid or salicylic acid. If over-the-counter solutions don’t work, talk to your doctor about laser beard hair reduction, which can be targeted at troublesome areas.

Astringents for Men
Aftershave lotions and toners contain astringents that tighten the skin, narrowing the pores and creating a firmer skin barrier. Witch hazel is an inexpensive solution that can be used to take the puffiness out of lower eyelids after a night of carousing or a red-eye flight. Keep cotton swabs soaked in witch hazel in the refrigerator for handy use after a long day or to refresh in the morning. However, avoid toners and astringents that contain alcohol, which causes dryness.

Grooming Moustaches and Beards

Many stylists recommend using a fine-tooth comb to straighten moustache hairs before trimming.  Try a mustache wax if your mustache grows unruly. Waxes clump the hairs together and make them easier to comb into shape. Use hair conditioner to manage a beard. If you’re going for a well-manicured look, use a small amount of styling gel.