Focus on Moringa

This tropical tree used in traditional medicine in South Asia and Africa is packed with nutritious benefits.

What is it?
Moringa is a leafy shrub that's native to the tropics and sub-Himalayan areas o f Pakistan, Afghanistan, India and Bangladesh. Thanks to its long, dangly seed pods, which are eaten i n a similar way to green beans, it's also known as the 'Drumstick Tree'. In addition to the pods, its leaves, flowers, bark and roots are highly prized for their traditional healing properties, which are linked to treating anaemia, joint pain, diarrhoea and ulcers, as well as boosting libido!

However, most medical claims remain untested.

What is it good for?
The leaves and seed pods are extremely nutritious and are often added to the food supply i n countries where malnutrition is common; especially as it's cheap and easy to grow. Moringa provides iron, complete protein, calcium and magnesium, as well as vitamins A, E and K, while the seed pods are also r i ch i n fibre.
Studies show the leaves in particular have a high antioxidant capacity, protecting cells from damage caused by free radicals or ageing.

Fighting Infection
Some antioxidant compounds i n moringa are great for fighting bacteria; indeed, it's often applied topically (by mixing the powder with water to make a paste) to treat conditions such as athlete's foot. A study in Pakistan grew four types of infectious bacteria, then added an extract of moringa bark to each; after which many of the bacteria were zapped. Most affected was Staphylococcus aureus, which a third of us carry in our noses, and is a common cause o f skin infections.


Preventing Cancer
It's thought the flavanoid and phenolic compounds in moringa's leaves and seeds could help protect against cancer. While clinical trials are needed to investigate this further, a South Korean study found moringa leaf extract killed off lung cancer cells, and South African research found i t prevented cancer cells in the throat
from growing by attacking their DNA structure.

Controlling Blood Sugar Levels
The use of moringa i n traditional medicine to combat diabetes could have some basis. A small study, published in the Thai Medical Journal, found that a daily four gram dose o f moringa increased insulin production by an impressive 74%. However, further and extensive studies are needed to support this finding.

How do I get it?
Unless you live i n the tropics and can nip out to your garden to pick a leaf or two, the best way to get moringa is in supplement form. Powders can be added to food, creating a pleasant green taste, and there are also capsules available. There's a lack of research into recommended dosage, so there isn't an official figure - but many medical websites suggest a dose of up to 4grams a day. However, avoid taking moringa if you are pregnant, as it has been linked to risk of miscarriage or harm to your baby's health. 

In addition to being used for food and traditional medicine, various parts of the tree have numerous uses including being a source for fuel and lubricant for machinery.

The seeds of the moringa tree are pressed to produce pale-yellow non-drying oil. The oil is known as "ben oil" or "behen oil" because it has a high concentration of behenic acid, a fatty acid. Due to antioxidants that act as natural preservatives, it is a stable oil, resistant to rancidity, giving it a reported shelf life of five years. It is a nutrient dense, high in palmitoleic, oleic and linoleic acids, moisturizing fatty acids and vitamins A and C.

An Age Old Beauty Secret
In ancient Rome, Greece and Egypt it was used in making perfume and to protect the skin. The oil is still used for effleurage to extract flower fragrance and is used for hair oils because it absorbs and retains scents.

In Egypt it was used to make medicinal ointments and salves and to protect the skin from the desert environment. A daily skin treatment for wrinkles and sun damage combined gum of frankincense and ground Cyprus grass mixed with fermented plant juice. A venerated oil, vases of moringa oil were found inside ancient tombs.

Skin Care Benefits
Moringa oil is found in numerous cosmetics due to moisturising, cleansing and emollient properties. It’s used in shampoos and conditioners and other hair care products, lotions, body oils, lip balms, anti-ageing and wrinkle creams, face creams, soaps and body wash, perfume and deodorants. It’s used for aromatherapy and massage oils because it blends well with essential oils and is a good carrier oil.

Moringa oil absorbs easily into the skin, improving the appearance and radiance of skin. It has skin healthy nutrients like vitamin A, which helps build collagen in the skin, vitamin C to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and the healing and anti-inflammatory benefits of vitamin E.

Help For Dry Skin

• It softens dry skin and maintains moisture in the skin.
• It is good for conditioning dry, chapped lips.
• It’s beneficial to treat rough, dry skin conditions like dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis.

Anti-Ageing Properties
It rejuvenates dull, tired and ageing skin.
Antioxidants and nutrients help fight free radical damage that can cause skin tissue damage and lead to the formation of wrinkles.
Moringa oil helps improve the appearance of wrinkles and prevents sagging of facial muscles. Plant hormones called cytokinins, which help promote cell growth and delay damage and destruction of skin tissues. Vitamin C stabilises collagen and helps reduce fine lines and repair damaged skin cells.

Antiseptic and Anti-Inflammatory Properties
Moringa oil has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties and has been used to treat and heal minor skin abrasions; minor cuts and scrapes, bruises, burns, insect bites, rashes, and sunburn and skin infections.

Acne & Dark Spot Prevention
Moringa oil helps clear blackheads and pimples. When used regularly helps prevent the recurrence of blemishes.
Helps minimise dark spots from acne and hyperpigmentation.
Buying and using moringa oil for skincare


Purchase cold pressed Moringa oleifera, which has the most beneficial nutrients.

Avoiding Skin Allergies

My work as a medical herbalist leads me to examine all facets of modern living and the gamut of symptoms emanating from this is quite extensive. One of the most challenging aspects of my clinical practice is treating or more pertinently, managing the wide range of skin complaints and disorders, many of which are simply an allergic response to some of the more commercial skincare products and toiletries in the mainstream market. 

Many already suffer from a skin problem such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, dry skin, urticaria, or contact dermatitis to name but a few. Allergies per se are also on the increase not all of which lead to skin manifestations of the kind just mentioned. However, I do see an increasing number of patients with skin allergies and skin sensitivities some of which are easily remedied when one examines the ingredients in their regular skincare products. On many occasions I have seen that a simple change such as switching to natural skincare products can have a profound impact with a dramatic improvement in symptoms. Almost always though, an examination of diet and lifestyle in conjunction with the skincare regimes yields the best long-term solution to perennial skin problems that have plagued my patients for most of their life.

Many of the commercial skincare products are mass produced and invariably based on synthetic by-products of the petrochemical industry which makes manufacturing cheap but also produces skincare products that are synthetic and artificial. These ingredients can often irritate the skin making it sensitive and can worsen existing skin conditions. Recent advances in technology and polymer science has broadened the range of ingredients that can now be added into commercial products, all purporting amazing skin benefits including the popular age-defying, anti-wrinkle and youth-promoting moisturisers. Many of the large perfume houses have been selling their own brands of skincare products on the back of their successful perfume labels. They are not always affordable and many will argue they are not always effective especially if you want something that works for your skin, that isn’t full of synthetic ingredients and isn’t likely to bring you out in a rash, or cause a flare-up of an existing skin problem.

The natural skincare products market is a growing and booming industry; no industry shows this more clearly than the organic skincare sector. The Soil Association’s Organic Market Report revealed that UK sales of certified organic health and beauty products increased by 20% in 2014 to £44.6 million. Experts are predicting that the global organic cosmetics market will reach £10.1 billion by 2018. Global demand for organic skincare is at its highest in the USA, Japan and Europe but analysts are also predicting huge growth in India, China, Brazil and Mexico. The trend of natural and organic skincare has seen major developments in the last few years and the cosmetic brands are always in search of the new and exciting natural ingredients and extracts that can be added and marketed in order to keep up with the ever growing demand for natural skincare. This surely has added some pressure on the existing mainstream beauty lines that were not specialising in natural products before. The natural beauty trend is an amazing development that has not only positively revolutionised the beauty industry, but also fundamentally changed our beauty habits for the best.

The changes in lifestyle and the growing knowledge of the modern consumer have brought about more holistic lifestyle choices, including a more natural approach to skincare. Consumers are increasingly recognising that the ageing of the skin depends on the lifestyle, diet and what you put on your skin. So what exactly should we be wary of regarding potential triggers for allergy? Commercial products may contain the following:

Common Irritants/Possible Allergens	Reason for adding it to skincare products
SLS and SLES	Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are detergents and surfactants used in 90% of personal-care products that foam. They can cause skin irritation and exacerbate an existing skin condition. A suitable alternative can be ammonium cocoyl isethionate, castile soap or soapwort.
Alcohol, isopropyl (SD-40)	A very drying and irritating solvent and dehydrator that strips your skin’s moisture and natural immune barrier. Made from propylene, a petroleum derivative and is found in many skin, haircare products, fragrances and antibacterial hand washes It can act as a carrier accelerating the penetration of other harmful chemicals into the skin. Potentially a skin irritant so avoid if at all possible. Alternatives include hydrogen peroxide, witch hazel, tea tree or neem oil.
DEA, MEA & TEA	Diethanolamine (DEA), monoethanolamine (MEA) and triethanolamine (TEA) are key examples of ethanolamines—a chemical group comprised of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) and alcohols. DEA is used as emulsifiers and foaming agents in shampoos, cleaners, and detergents. TEA is used as fragrance, pH adjuster and emulsifying agent. MEA along with the others are almost always in products that foam: bubble bath, body wash, shampoo, soap, facial cleanser. Have been linked to cancers and pure forms are banned in the EU. Combined with other compounds eg. cocoamide DEA is perfectly safe and non- irritating. Natural surfactants include castile soap, yucca extract, soapwort, quillaja bark extract but they may not compare in effectiveness. Safe, non-irritating natural emulsifiers and stabilisers derived from coconut oil are cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
Synthetic fragrances (often labelled as parfum) & synthetic colours	Fragrances are manufactured as a copy of the aromatic component of essential oils. Some could also be purely synthetic, not imitating anything found in nature. Can be very irritating to sensitive skins so avoid both if at all possible. Can try botanical extracts or even essential oils (organic versions) as they will be in their whole, natural form and not a synthetic version which may be using synthetic chemicals in the manufacturing process to which many are allergic to.
PEG (polyethylene glycol)	A chemical used to make things thicker or stickier but also used in cleansers to dissolve oil and grease. It is a stabiliser and performs functions similar to glycerine. It can penetrate the skin so can deliver other ingredients but can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis. Avoid if possible.
PG (propylene glycol) & butylene glycol	Gaseous hydrocarbons which in a liquid state act as surfactants (wetting agents and solvents). They easily penetrate the skin and can weaken the protein and cellular structure. Commonly used to make extracts from herbs. Alternatives could include water extracted herbs and therapeutic essential oils
Triclosan	Often used in antibacterial cleansers and toothpaste but the manufacturing process may produce dioxins (see below), a powerful hormone-disrupting chemical. Use essential oils (organic versions) with antibacterial properties such as tea tree oil, neem oil, thyme or rosemary if possible.
Phthalates	Simply labelled as ‘fragrances’ or used in nail polish, hair spray, and perfumes. They are plasticising chemicals often used in cosmetics but two of which (dibutyl and diethylhexyl) have been have been banned in the EU. Unfortunately fragrances are considered proprietary information so they are not required to be listed on the ingredients label. Cumulative effects can be irritating to the skin.
Dioxins	Existing in the food chain as environmental pollutants, dioxins have made their way into many skin care products. Because they are persistent compounds, they linger inside the body for long periods of time. Dioxins will not be listed on a label, but are often contained in antibacterial agents such as triclosan, PEGs and sodium laureth sulfate.
Formaldehyde	A highly effective preservative which can be added directly, or more often, be released from preservatives such as quaternium-15. These preservatives release small amounts of formaldehyde over time but can lead to sensitisation which means that the longer the product is used, the likelihood of developing a reaction to it. Natural preservatives include essential oils, neem oil, vitamin E, honey, rosemary extract, grapefruit seed extract, benzoin, sweet orange oil or potassium sorbate. See comments below though.
Aluminium-based ingredients	Some studies have linked aluminium to Alzheimer’s disease, though recent research has cast doubt on the connection. Other studies have indicated that aluminium may be linked to breast cancer and other brain disorders and in the form of powder, it is used in products such as antiperspirant deodorants. It can irritate the skin.
Toluene	Toluene is often used in glues, adhesives, chemical detergents, dyes, paint and paint thinners, plastics and many other industrial substances. Often labelled under benzene, methylbenzene, toluol and phenylmethane. Also found in nail polish or hair colouring products and can irritate the skin.
PABA (sunscreen)	Para-aminobenzoic acid or PABA is a chemical substance that is found in the folic acid vitamin and also in several foods including grains, eggs, milk, molasses, liver and kidney. PABA is also prepared industrially for use in sunscreen but can produce sensitivity resulting in classic allergic contact dermatitis as well as photocontact dermatitis. Safer alternatives include titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
Other known culprits of allergy: ·         Silicone-derived emollients ·         Disodium EDTA (and its salts) ·         Essential oils ·         Lanolin ·         Mineral oil ·         Nut oils

Fortunately, we are living though an age of choice where there is a wealth of natural alternatives. It is important that you read the label carefully and choose the most uncomplicated options avoiding known allergens if listed. Examine the sources of the ingredients as they may be from natural products even though they have to be processed in order to extract them. Examine the organic claim in equal measure as the non-organic culprits as residues of pesticides and herbicides in the latter could be the real issue and not the ingredient from the plant itself. 

There are very good reasons why mainstream, commercial formulations contain these ingredients. These can range from providing adequate foaming in shower gels (the nation loves bubbles!) to preventing the product from separating, limiting rancidity and conserving the integrity of the final product. As far as preservatives are concerned, this is a contentious issue. Unless products contain an effective preservative, the product is compromised causing it to degrade and worse still, encouraging the growth of potentially harmful bacteria and/or fungi. Contrary to what is widely perceived, parabens are safe and effective; the claims against them are unsubstantiated and not supported by the scientific community nor indeed cancer charities. However, in sensitive skins, they may cause irritations but this could be due to any of the ingredients in the product. Short of conducting a scientific experiment, attributing allergic properties to parabens is at best misleading. Phenoxyethanol is a popular, synthetic preservative and a paraben-free and propylene glycol-free alternative. It offers a universally highly effective broad-spectrum protection from gram positive and gram negative bacteria, fungi and yeast. Again, doses used in formulations (0.5-1.0%) are low so the potential for allergy should be low-risk, it is certified safe and non-toxic by the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Some of the so-called natural preservatives use synthetic chemicals in the extraction process and worse still, are combined with parabens to make them effective as tests conducted on pure natural preservatives  such as grapefruit seed extract show little or no antimicrobial effect. 

Ethical Dilemmas and Other Considerations
Many people switch to natural skincare products including organic versions in the belief that they are doing something good for the planet as well as their skin. This is laudable but do please examine and research the ingredients carefully – some products and ingredients are hard to source (can we really verify their authenticity and ethical business practices?), some ingredients are very difficult to extract, some need large quantities of raw material and some need to be highly processed if they are to be useful in the skincare industry. 

The harnessing of the highly desirable and natural active constituents from plants is painstakingly difficult, incredibly time-consuming and often very laborious. In reality therefore, all ingredients from plant-based and other natural sources require some degree of processing if they are to be useful and applicable for skincare products in addition to some degree of preservation if they are to last. The use of natural preservatives is controversial, not least of which is the notion of what constitutes ‘natural’. Just because it is natural, doesn’t mean it is safe. After all, arsenic is natural – not sure we would want to advocate its consumption!

Only 100% oil-based products can ideally get away with avoiding preservatives owing to the vitamin E content; this will offer the product some protection against rancidity as it is an antioxidant, however it may not always protect against bacterial or fungal growth. Preservatives are a vital ingredient in skincare products as otherwise, the product will quickly become rancid causing it to degrade; this can produce toxic compounds which can prove harmful to the skin. Moreover, we want to prevent the growth of undesirable bacteria and fungi which will inevitably prolong the shelf-life of the product.

Manufacturers of natural skincare products are not ideally fans of synthetic chemicals but the safety of any product is paramount and should not be compromised in the interests of being 100% ‘natural’, 100% ‘organic’ and 100% free of ‘chemicals’. The human body is full of organic chemicals and many brands play into our need for all things natural and combined with an unhealthy obsession with youth, the prices of some of these products are simply unjustified. It is safe to say that no product can be truly 100% natural given our lifestyles. Most skincare products will last between 6-12 months with preservatives (otherwise it will last between 2-3 weeks at best and only in a fridge!).

Remember, natural products can trigger allergies too – make no mistake. Those with sensitive skins and those prone to atopy (asthma, eczema and/or hay fever) need to be especially careful of plant-based products. It is important to consider the hormonal profile as certain life changes (eg. menopause, pregnancy) or even taking an over-the-counter medicine such as a painkiller can make the skin more sensitive than usual in some individuals. Also consider other factors as described below before ditching your regular skincare product:

• Diet – by far the strongest culprit but by no means exclusive. Given the rise of so many synthetic food ingredients, not all of which can be sourced or controlled, our systems now have to navigate through a minefield of processes to keep us healthy. It is wholly unsurprising that many of us have some form of allergy or sensitivity (with gastrointestinal symptoms and skin manifestations amongst other problems)
• Environment – household dust, pollution, radiation from digital devices all contribute to toxic overload in our systems and overburden the immune system which already works overtime to keep our systems in healthy working order simply by living in this modern world full of potential toxins. Inappropriate and/or excessive immune responses such as skin inflammation or flare ups can be a classic hallmark of immune burden rather than an allergic response to a skincare product to which it has been wrongly attributed.  
• Other products such as fabric detergents or pets (to name but a few); these are notorious allergens for sensitive skins

If you are really concerned, a good way of finding out the culprit of any skin allergy/sensitivity before making any headlong decision to discard your regular skincare product is to conduct an elimination test. Collect together all suspects regarding skincare and avoid them one at a time and using the others as before. Then reintroduce the potential culprit and observe for any symptoms. When trying a new product, always do a patch test first on a part of the body that is not so visible (such as an arm or a leg) and avoid if your skin reacts to the product. Additionally, investigate the range of products that have the ‘free from’ label (and not just for skincare). These are products that have been formulated that avoid gluten, dairy and other known allergens (including some enzymes and GMO ingredients) which may trigger skin allergies.

Conclusion
You have the best knowledge of your own skin. Switch to natural alternatives as far as possible or better still, try making your own bespoke products which will work best for you. Adopting a more holistic approach to skincare should also include a wholescale review of diet and lifestyle, all of which should mitigate any risk of skin allergies or sensitivities. 

You can read the newsletter article here:  http://www.soapmakingmagazine.co.uk/blog/index.php/2016/11/28/avoiding-skin-allergies/

What's all the buzz about?

Natural, healing and nutrient-rich, it's not surprising that honey is having a skincare moment
With the trend for kitchen cupboard beauty continuing to grow, we're increasingly finding more uses for honey than spreading on our toast. The global skincare  market is tipping back in favour of natural ingredients, and a recent Mintel survey found that 76 per cent of consumers are interested in honey-based products. Meanwhile, some of healthy's favourite beauty brands, such as Dr Organic, Andalou, and Manuka Doctor (Kourtney Kardashian is its ambassador), use honey as an active ingredient.

It may be hot in the beauty industry right now, but its cosmetic use goes far back in time. 'The ancient Greeks and Egyptians used honey on skin conditions ranging  from wounds and acne, as well as for skin repair to combat ageing,' says Dr Firas Al-Niaimi, dermatologist and clinic director at skin.

Hive of activity
Natural honey is packed with skin-friendly nutrients, explains Dija Ayodele, facialist and founder of skincare range 3107. 'It's rich in B vitamins and micro minerals, such as copper, iron and calcium, which all play a part in keeping skin healthy and supporting the ageing process.' But hold back before slapping any old runny variety on your face: Ayodele highlights the importance of quality. 'Bog-standard honey goes through a cleaning process that generally removes the beauty benefits. Also, this honey is often watered down or sweetened, so it isn't as effective.'

Which type?
Raw honey is used in creams and salves to relieve dry, flaky skin conditions, like low-level eczema, dermatitis and dandruff, says Ayodele. 'It's a source of enzymes, proteins, antibiotics and natural hydroxy acids, such as gluconic acid, which acts as a mild exfoliant to slough away dead skin cells and brighten skin tone.'However, raw honey should never be used on open wounds, she adds. 'It's 100 per cent natural and, at its most potent, it can contain organisms that can be harmful to the skin and body.' That's why, for problems such as eczema and dermatitis where skin might have become broken, Ayodele recommends highest-grade active manuka (see below). Due to its antimicrobial quality, this honey is effective at calming the red and yellow spots associated with inflammatory acne, adds Dr Al-Niaimi.

Do grades matter?
You'll often see a unique manuka factor (UMF) on manuka honey  pots. This trademarked rating system from New Zealand relates to its bacteria-killing bioactive compounds. (Some brands use the rating non-peroxide activity - NPA - the lab term for UMF and graded the same way.) For skincare, the  higher the better, says Ayodele; aim for a rating of 12+ and above.

Glycerine - Uses and Properties

Even though glycerine has been a staple in my stockroom for ages, it has remained one of those 'background ingredients'. But that all changed this year. These past few months, glycerine has made its way into a front and centre position due to a series of widespread blog posts on this topic. A bit of useful information on a key ingredient in natural skincare products.....

A glycerite is an extract made with herbs (flowers, or other substance) using glycerine as the main medium of extraction – a glycerine extract, if you will. That picture up there is a lemon glycerite being strained (and yes, it smells deliciously of fresh lemon). My recent glycerite how-to's have been so popular with you lovely readers that I have gotten all kinds of feedback and questions from you, so today we're going to take a closer look at glycerine.

Glycerine = Glycerol

Glycerine is also known as glycerol. It's a clear, viscous (read: thick-ish, syrup-y) liquid that is sweet to the taste, slightly sticky to the touch, and categorised as non-toxic.

Glycerine has multiple uses within the food, medical, and cosmetics industries. It has gazillions of applications. Yes, it's an exaggeration but it really is very widely used. As a barely-scratch-the-surface kind of list, you'll find glycerine as a component of:

• vaccines
• food syrups
• e-cigarette liquid
• anti-freeze
• bio-diesel
• medicine
• sweets

and this list could go on for a very long time....

Glycerine Fun Fact 
Glycerine functions beautifully as a 'water-look-alike' in photography and film studios because it stays where it is put until the shot is done. (Now you know how they can 'capture' that perfect moment of dewy-freshness under a million hot lights that would make real water evaporate in seconds).

Both Animal and Vegetable
Glycerine can be made from both animal and vegetable sources. Vegetable glycerine is most often made from soy, palm or coconut. The non-plant-based version of glycerine is made from animal tallow.

Properties
In skin care products, glycerine functions as a humectant – drawing moisture to the skin when it comprises under a certain percentage of a formula. It is generally recommended to keep the total content of glycerine to under 10%.

Added at higher percentages, glycerine can do quite the opposite and draw moisture from the skin.

Dosage is everything when it comes to glycerine.

Another cool thing glycerine can do is function as a preservative, or aid to a preservative – and, again, dosage is pretty much the key.

Uses
A proven ingredient with a long history of use, glycerine is an ideal addition to creams, lotions, serums, tonics, face mists and other products where moisture-boosting is desired.

Soapy goodness: I'm sure you've tried (or at least heard of) glycerine soap, which is often recommended for sensitive skin types. Glycerine soap is easily recognisable because of its translucent quality.

Reference:
Taken from: http://www.lisaliseblog.com/2016/08/glycerine-uses-and-properties.html#more 

Banning Plastic Microbeads

The UK government now fully backs a legal ban on polluting plastic microbeads in cosmetics and toiletries, environment minister George Eustice said in June 2016. A ban across the EU could be passed as early as 2017, he said, to stop the tiny particles entering the seas and harming wildlife. Eustice argued in favour of a voluntary phase-out by the industry as recently as March, but said the issue had moved on after the US introduced a ban.

“We now support a ban on microbeads in cosmetics and are working with other EU countries
to get it on the agenda at a European level,” Eustice told MPs on the environment audit committee. “I think it is right to push ahead with a ban.” Eustice wants the UK to leave the EU in the forthcoming referendum but said he was representing the government in front of the committee and praised the benefits of EU action: “It is better to progress this at an EU level and get others to do the same.”

Microbeads are widely used in toiletries and cosmetics but thousands of tonnes wash into the sea every year, where they harm wildlife and can ultimately be eaten by people. A petition signed by more than 300,000 people asking for a ban was delivered to David Cameron last week.

Eustice said that if the EU did not go forward with a ban, the UK would introduce a national ban on the use of microbeads in manufacturing. But, if the UK remained in the EU, it would not be able to ban the sale of microbeads because the EU sets trade rules.

Last week, cosmetic trade bodies appeared before the same MPs and argued against a ban and in favour of a voluntary phase out in the EU by 2020. But the MPs attacked loopholes in the voluntary action and the lack of clear labelling that products contain plastic microbeads. Rebecca Pow MP asked Eustice on Tuesday if such labelling should be put in place now, as the ingredients lists are in tiny print. “You need an electron microscope to read the writing,” But Eustice said it would be quicker and more effective to put a ban in place.

“There is widespread support from EU member states,” said Eustice, naming the Netherlands, France, Belgium and Austria. “If things go well it is quite possible you could have a ban in place during  2017.” He added there would need to be a transitional period, with manufacturing of microbeads ending about 18 months after the law was passed and sales shortly after, meaning microbead products could continue to be sold for a time.

“I don’t think we are being too nice [to the industry] - we have moved quite quickly,” he said.
“Whenever you make a change in the law, you have to have transitional arrangements.” He said
he thought the costs to industry of such a ban “would not be that high”.

Jennifer Lonsdale, director of the Environmental Investigation Agency, said: “Flushing microbeads down the drain presents a major and unnecessary threat to marine biodiversity. We particularly welcome Eustice’s acceptance that the issue is too pressing to leave it to industry self-regulation at this stage.”

Daniel Steadman, from Fauna & Flora International, which produces The Good Scrub Guide, said: “It is vital that the ban avoids the loopholes around definitions and timescales that have limited the industry’s voluntary commitments. [This] will allow consumers to buy UK products safe in the knowledge that they are not polluting the environment.”

Louise Edge, from Greenpeace UK, also welcomed the move: “However it needs underlining that to really tackle this problem a ban needs to cover all consumer products that contain microbeads, not just personal care products.” Eustice said the initial ban would focus on cosmetics, but could be widened later to include their use in other products, like washing powders.

Microbeads are too small to be filtered effectively by sewage treatment plants and flow into the oceans. Plastic pollution in the oceans is a huge problem: 5tn pieces of plastic are floating in the world’s seas. Microbeads, also used in some toothpastes, are a small but significant part of this which both ministers and campaigners agree is the easiest to prevent.

Microbeads are eaten by marine life, which mistake them for food particles, and have been shown to kill fish before they reach reproductive age. The tiny beads can also attract toxins from seawater, which are then passed up the food chain. The beads are thought to be eaten by people consuming seafood and possibly breathed in too. Safe alternatives are already available, including ground nutshells and salt.

Eustice said the hazard posed by airborne microplastics was as yet unknown: “There are big evidence gaps. We don’t know for certain how big a problem this is and how big the health risk is.”

Reference: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/14/nmentbacksmicrobeadsbangeorgeeustice?
CMP=Share_iOSApp_Other 2/2

DHEA - too good to be true?

Still undergoing research, with many questions still unanswered by the medical community, 5-Dehydroepiandrosterone, or DHEA looks like a promising solution to the discomforts caused by ageing. This naturally produced steroid hormone  originates in the adrenal glands, but the form used in medical treatment is generally sourced from soybeans or sweet potato.Though over the counter plant-sourced DHEA used to be available commercially in the early nineteen-eighties, the FDA discontinued availability because of concerns regarding the truth of its health claims. In the early nineties over the counter DHEA supplements became available again, but with the caveat that research was still being conducted about the efficacy of the product. Because DHEA levels are abundant in humans during youth and rapidly decline in the twenties and thirties, DHEA is studied in connection with ageing. Could the sudden decline of this hormone have anything to do with the effects of ageing?

DHEA is the hormone that preserves our skin's youth. As we age, our skin's DHEA levels rapidly decline until at age 60 they are 40% or less than the levels at age 30. Our Anti-Ageing Skin Treatments can normally contains 1% DHEA, as well as a unique blend of herbs known to preserve and protect our skin from ageing and sun damage.

Equally, Anti-Agring Moisturising Creams with 1% DHEA is on the cutting-edge of the anti-ageing revolution in skin care. The only skin cream that is guaranteed to repair and reverse the effects of age and sun damage to the skin. It fades and removes the blemishes and spots associated with ageing and sun damaged skin

Men and women under 30 can also use this cream to treat over exposure to the sun and elements, or to treat sunburn, psoriasis, eczema, and dermatitis. DHEA levels in young women are also the marker for breast size. Women with higher levels of DHEA have naturally larger breast size.

The active ingredient is DHEA, which is a hormone produced by the adrenal gland. It is the most abundant hormone in the blood system, and is found in even higher levels in the skin. The body's natural production of DHEA falls from about 30 mg a day at age 25-30 to under 6 mg per day in men over 50 and after menopause in women.

Ageing skin is skin that is no longer being replenished with DHEA. This is one of the principal causes of wrinkling, brown ageing spots, and the lack of elasticity. In fact, DHEA levels in the skin of men and women over age 50 is just 20% of the level present in men and women under 30. It has been scientifically demonstrated that the topical application of our Anti-Ageing Hormone Cream with DHEA will reverse ageing and over exposure to the sun. Both men and women who have applied our Anti-Ageing Moisturising Cream to both face and hands have reported the rapid fading of brown spots, the reduction and elimination of wrinkles, softer and younger looking skin, and other pleasant effects.

The Anti-Ageing Moisturiser Cream with DHEA should be applied continuously for 20 days before improvements become obvious. Amazing results are generally seen after treatment for thirty days. If treatment is then discontinued, beneficial results will diminish and age and brown spots will gradually reappear.

DHEA is the most important hormone present in the skin. Topical application to the skin will replenish this vital hormone and stimulate the skin's immune system, specifically the skin's sebaceous glands, increasing the skin's metabolism and activity. DHEA has been shown to have many other beneficial effects including the prevention or slowing the growth of skin cancers, tumours, and it is an established treatment for psoriasis, eczema, seborrhoea, and dermatitis. It relieves dry skin and is very effective in the treatment of burns of all types.

Anti-Aging Moisturising Cream should be applied daily to the hands and face and any other part of the body desired. For best results, it is suggested that the Anti-Aging Moisturiser be used together with an oral supplement of DHEA tablets or our Triple Hormone Tablets containing DHEA.

Many large cosmetic companies offer highly publicised anti-ageing wrinkle creams. What they fail to tell you is that these products actually speed the skin's ageing process and increase skin cancer risks. Clinical studies in the USA and Europe show the effects of these creams to be temporary at best and damaging in the short-term and a leading cause of skin ageing in the long-term. Read the DERMATOLOGY TIMES report and discover what the beauty tycoons like some brand-name manufacturers do not want you to know about their dangerous products THE WRINKLE CREAM FRAUD.

Look out for creams that contain none of the listed dangerous alphahydroxy and glycolic chemicals.

Silicone in Skincare

There are numerous forms of silicones used in cosmetic products, particularly leave-on skin-care products and all manner of hair-care products. Perhaps the most common forms of silicone are cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane. Other forms include various types of dimethicone and phenyl trimethicone.

What is silicone?
Silicone is a substance derived from silica (sand is a silica). The unique fluid properties of silicone give it a great deal of slip, and in its various forms it can feel like silk on the skin, impart emolliency, and be a water-binding agent that holds up well, even when skin becomes wet. In other forms, it is also used extensively for wound healing and for improving the appearance of scars.

Silicone and acne
Claims that silicones in any form cause or worsen acne have not been substantiated in published research, nor have reports that silicones are irritating or "suffocate" skin. Almost all of these claims are either myths or based on anecdotal evidence, which isn't the best way to determine the safety or efficacy of any cosmetic ingredient.

Does silicone suffocate skin?
How do we know that silicones don’t suffocate skin? Because of their molecular properties they are at the same time porous and resistant to air. Think of silicones in a skin-care formula like the covering of a tea bag. When you steep the tea bag in water the tea and all of its antioxidant properties are released. Silicones remain on the surface of your skin and the other ingredients they are mixed with "steep" through. All ingredients have to be suspended in some base formula. Some of those ingredients remain on the surface, some absorb. Either way, the "actives" get through. Think of how many topical medications are suspended in petrolatum or mineral oil and those active ingredients absolutely get through and petrolatum is far more effective at preventing moisture loss than silicones are. Silicones have been used in burn units for years because of their unique healing, protecting, and breathable properties.

Moreover, the molecular structure of commonly used silicones makes it impossible for them to suffocate skin. The unique molecular structure of silicones (larger molecules with wider spaces between each molecule) allow them to form a breathable barrier and also explains why silicones rarely feel heavy or occlusive, although they offer protection against moisture loss.

Does silicone clog pores?
Interestingly, silicone has been shown to be helpful for offsetting dryness and flaking from common anti-acne active ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide and topical antibiotics. (Also, silicone fillers are sometimes used for improving the appearance of acne scars. That certainly wouldn't be the case if silicone was a pore-clogging ingredient.) Perhaps the most telling reason why silicones do not clog pores and cause acne (or blackheads) is because, from a chemistry standpoint, most silicones are volatile substances. That means their initially viscous (thick) texture evaporates quickly and does not penetrate the pore lining where acne is formed. Instead, they help ensure an even application of other ingredients and leave behind a silky, almost imperceptible feel that noticeably enhances skin's texture and appearance. You can think of this as a breathable barrier that protects skin while barely being felt.

Source: 
Journal of Wound Care, July 2000, pages 319–324, The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, Volume 3, Book 2, Allured Publishing Corporation, 2002, pages 833-839,  Cutis, October 2008, pages 281-284,  Dermatology Research and Practice, October 2010, Epublication.

Dealing with problem skin

The most common skin problems are:

• psoriasis
• eczema
• acne vulgaris
• acne rosacea
• dermatitis
• dry skin

It is easy to forget that your skin is the largest organ in your body, and the only organ that we can see easily and on a daily basis! The skin can be thought of as an outward reflection of your inner health and well being. Skin problems cause a huge amount of physical discomfort and emotional stress and many of the prescribed medicines that patients use simply give some topical relief, but do not treat the underlying cause. Many people find that when they stop using prescription medicines that their problems flare up again. Some products, such as steroids, have side effects and should not be used for extended periods. Herbs have been used by herbalists to treat skin problems for centuries using them for blood purifying, immune support, to fight infection and aid elimination. A herbalist looks at the patient as a whole taking into account family history; diet; medical history and lifestyle. Our bodies are complex and when we develop a problem there is often more than one factor acting as a trigger. Whilst the best approach is always to consult a practitioner, there are a number of things that you can try for yourself.

INTERNAL USE Some useful herbs include:

• Echinacea (Echinacea angustifolia) is often used to clear up mildly infected skin problems and teenage acne. It can also be used topically.
• Sarsaparilla (Smilax ornata) is a cleansing and detoxifying herb, used traditionally for psoriasis, acne and rosacea. It can be drunk as a tea or taken as a tincture.
• Burdock (Arctium lappa) is considered to be a liver herb, and helps with elimination and clearing skin problems. It is often used in long standing cases of acne and psoriasis.
• Chamomile (Chamomilla recuitita) is a gentle nerve relaxant, anti-inflammatory and healer. It combines well with plantain and nettle for the treatment of eczema.
• Plantain (Plantago lanceolata) is a cooling and strengthening herb for the skin. It promotes healing and works well in a tea blend.
• Nettle (Urtica dioca) is traditionally used as a gentle blood cleanser and anti-allergy remedy. It is particularly useful for itchy, allergic skin conditions and can be taken as a tea or tincture.

EXTERNAL USE Creams or lotions containing these herbs can help to soothe and moisturise the dry skin associated with these conditions that often causes so much of the irritation:

• Starflower oil (Borago officinalis) is soothing, healing and anti-inflammatory. It is useful to treat inflamed skin such as in eczema, psoriasis or dermatitis.
• Chickweed (Stellaria media) is a cooling herb for hot, itchy skin.
• Chamomile (Chamomilla recutita) is used by herbalists to reduce redness and inflammation in itchy skin conditions. It combines well with cooling peppermint for itchy eczema.
• Pokeroot (Phytolacca decandra) may help to reduce redness and scaling in psoriasis when used as an ointment.
• Marigold (Calendula officinalis) is used for its healing and antiseptic properties to prevent infection and heal broken skin. It is useful in acne, dermatitis, eczema and to heal wounds.
• Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) essential oil has a strong antibacterial action, and is extremely useful in treating acne, as a herbal cream, gel or in skincare preparations.

Caution: Stopping the use of steroid-based creams suddenly can cause skin conditions to flare up. Steroid creams should be withdrawn slowly and can be used alongside herbal preparations. If in doubt, consult your doctor or a qualified medical herbalist.

DIET AND LIFESTYLE
Smoking can play havoc with the skin, robbing the body of vital antioxidant nutrients and adversely affecting the skin's blood supply. Cigarette smoke also contains a wide range of toxic substances that can trigger allergies in some people. Stress can play a large part in skin flare-ups and a noticeable improvement can often be seen when stress levels are reduced. See our Stress Management page for information on herbs to help control stress. Exercise can also help to reduce stress levels and boost circulation and energy levels.

It is also really important to get adequate sleep - this is when your body does its repair work, and lack of sleep can contribute to dull, problematic skin. The correct balance of nutrients is vital for skin to repair and renew itself. A diet based on refined and processed foods can lead to nutritional shortfalls that also affect the immune system, hormonal balance and bowel function - all factors that may be reflected in skin health.

Foods containing additives and colourings, tea, coffee, fried foods, sugary foods and drinks, dairy products and animal fats can contribute to skin problems or make them worse. Alcohol can also exacerbate itchy, flaky and inflamed skin conditions, and is best kept to a minimum. The best approach is to eat fresh, unprocessed foods including fruit and vegetables, whole grains, pulses, nuts and seeds with plenty of fluid in the form of plain water, herbal teas, or diluted fruit juices. Aim to eat at least 5-7 portions of a variety of fresh fruit and vegetables daily plus around two litres of fluid.

Some cases of eczema may be linked to food allergy or intolerance and eliminating the offending foods can greatly improve the condition. Cow’s milk and wheat products are common triggers for skin problems, but other foods may be identified using food sensitivity testing as a guide.

SUPPLEMENTS
Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) like Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA), found in Starflower and Evening Primrose Oil and Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA) are sometimes used in the treatment of dry, irritated skin conditions.

Zinc is important for the immune system, skin healing and reducing inflammation.

Vitamins A, C and E are all important for immune function, skin healing and to prevent premature ageing of skin.

Reference: http://clinic.deeatkinson.net/health-concerns/skin/skin-problems-and-herbal-medicine

Skin Care and Exercise

Although you may feel great after going for a run or lifting weights, it can wreak havoc on your skin. Having a bad skincare routine when exercising can lead to clogged pores, unwanted spots, blackheads or even dry and itchy skin. Whether you are a regular to the gym or you're a fitness beginner.

Before the Workout
Before you hit the gym, it is important to clean your face so that you get rid of any unwanted oil and dirt. We suggest using warm, but not hot, water and finish with a splash of cold water to leave your face feeling fresh, clean and awake!

If you’re going to be exercising outside it’s really important to protect your skin with SPF to avoid sun damage which will lead to premature skin ageing. We recommend Centella's Classic Moisturiser which is a lightweight daily moisturiser with sunscreen protection properties. The moisturiser has a matte finish so you won’t be left looking shiny before you’ve even started working!

If you’re going to be working with weights or equipment, it is important to protect your hands. They’re fairly important. We suggest Centella's Hand Cream, which forms a protective barrier for your hands, but absorbs quickly so you can get straight into the gym and won’t lose any grip. 

During the Workout
If you have long hair you should tie it up away from your face. Not only so you can avoid the awful hair-stuck-to-face situation, but it will help protect your hair from absorbing frizz-inducing sweat.

Be sure to wipe down surfaces and any equipment before (and after) using it. No one wants to touch someone else's sweaty equipment, and it will help bacteria from spreading. Additionally, try not to wipe sweat from your face with dirty hands as it spreads spot-causing bacteria.

Most importantly, stay hydrated by drinking lots of water throughout the workout. When you sweat, your body loses water quickly. You need to constantly replenish water levels so you can stay on top of your game.

Post Workout
Once you’re done jump straight in the shower, but try not to have the shower too hot as this can strip the skin of its natural oils. Also consider not washing your hair every time, as this actually dries it out.

While you’re in the shower, lightly exfoliate your face using Centella Cleansing Face Polish. Rub gently using small circular motions. This will help remove excess oil, dead skin and sweat and leave you feeling squeaky clean and refreshed! Shower gels and body washes blended from botanical ingredients can provide freshness and boost the senses through floral fragrances and essential oils. See the Centella range here: body wash  and shower gel. 

Once you’re done, finish off your skincare routine by rehydrating your face. Depending on your skin type, moisturisers seal in the moisture and prevent any dryness afterwards. Centella provide a wide range of water-based moisturisers for the face as well as the body so they are ultralight and ultra-hydrating. Check out the complete product range here: http://www.centellaskincare.co.uk/

Spring Clean your Skincare

With the sun starting to break through those grey winter skies and signs of spring beginning to appear all around us, it's time to put a stop to dull, lifeless skin and embark on a new skincare regime using natural beauty products. It becomes vital to use an environmental shield as we move into the sunnier months, although of course we should be protecting our complexion against harmful UV rays all year round. Gentle wash-off cleansers become useful at this time of the year as we become more active in our lifestyles and the skin will perspire more. Choose one that is pH balanced and rich in vitamin C and E, which will support the skin while you cleanse. We should pay attention to the changes our skin goes through in different seasons because it will have new requirements depending on whether the climate is hot, dry, cold or wet. Your skin changes every minute of every day. The season, climate, hormones, stress levels and product use all have an impact.

It is highly recommended in the first instance that you consult a skin specialist if you've been using the same products all year, or have not really altered your routine since your teenage years. The skin's key defence against the environment is an antioxidant-rich moisturiser that will mop up all the youth-scavenging free radicals that we get from the daily assault of sun, pollution and climate change. If you prefer to use organic beauty products instead of those containing synthetic chemicals, try applying a combination of herbal oils and carrier oils to your skin to ward off strong ultraviolet rays.

Lavender, helichrysum, myrrh and Roman chamomile oils are all known for their sun-blocking properties, so mix five to ten drops per ounce of carrier oil for an all-natural sun screen. 3 of my other favourite herbs that I use in skincare are the following:

Rose Petals (Rosa damascena)

Most of us are probably familiar with how often roses are used in personal care products—as rose water, rose scented lotions and, of course, perfume. Indeed, rose petals are a wonderful tonic for the skin. A cooled infusion (tea) of rose petals can be used as an eye or mouthwash, due to the antiseptic characteristics of the rose. Add in the anti-inflammatory qualities and you’ve got a wonderful toner for skin troubled by rashes, irritation, or acne. Just spritz it on the skin after cleansing. For acne-prone skin, mix a toner of one part rose infusion and one part aloe juice. Use this after cleansing in the morning and evening. Keep it in the fridge for the longest shelf-life.

Rose is also a wonderful tonic for mature and aging skin, due to its vitamin C content and ability to rehydrate and soothe the skin. You can add a few drops of rose essential oil to the moisturisers you already use, or blend an ounce of jojoba oil (which is readily absorbed by the skin, as it so closely mimics the skin’s own sebum, or natural oil; it does not need to be refrigerated and has a long shelf life) with 8 drops of rose essential oil. Smooth this on your face at night, or anytime the skin feels tight and dry.

To cleanse dry skin, try the following: find rosewater or brew some rose petal tea (1tsp of herb per 6oz of water). Combine two tablespoons of rosewater or rose tea with two tablespoons of raw honey and 1/2 cup of almond oil. Massage a small amount into skin. Rinse well and pat dry. This cleanser can be stored in your medicine cabinet, no need for refrigeration. If your skin still feels dry after cleansing, massage in a little more almond oil.

The antiseptic nature of rose also makes it a wonderful treatment for wounds, bruises, rashes, and incisions. To use, take a clean washcloth, dip into the warm or chilled tea (1tbs per cup of water, steeped 10 minutes), depending on the nature of the injury, and place on the wound. For sore muscles, try rubbing the area with a rose-infused oil. Try two parts oil to one part herb. Grind the dry petals and infuse them in the oil. Let this sit at least two weeks in a dark spot, strain, and use, warming the oil as you wish.

Chamomile (Chamomilla recititta or Chamomaelum nobile))

The health of our liver is reflected in the health of our skin. Chamomile is an herb you can use internally to help tone the digestive system, liver, and kidneys. When these organs are working and healthy, wastes will be processed the way they were meant to be—through elimination—and not through the skin.

Chamomile is also a wonderful external addition to your skincare regime, especially if your skin is sensitive, mature, or irritated and chapped by the elements. Apply cool chamomile tea as a toner to the skin. Search out a chamomile hydrosol and spritz this on the skin. For helping the skin heal from sun or windburn, try adding a few drops of chamomile essential oil to an ounce of jojoba oil. Apply sparingly as needed. This herb’s ability to ease inflammation as well as its ability to soothe the senses will calm the body and the mind.

To cleanse the skin (especially good for combination skin), try brewing a strong cup of chamomile tea (two tsp of loose herb or two teabags per 6oz of water, letting it steep 10 minutes). Blend this with one half cup of ground, whole grain oatmeal (rolled Scottish oats is what I use, then grind in a clean coffee grinder) and one tablespoon of raw (not pasteurized) honey (honey is a demulcent, which means it pulls moisture to the skin; it also fights acne and protects against damaging rays from the sun and regenerates skin, protecting against free radicals). Place a small amount of this in your palms and massage into skin. Rinse with warm water. Store the rest in the fridge–without preservatives, this cleanser won’t last long on the shelf. If parts of your skin feel tight after washing, try a little almond or jojoba oil massaged into dry areas.

Finally, you can also apply chamomile externally as a paste to help heal burns, skin ulcers, eczema. To use, grind dried flowers with a (clean!) coffee grinder or a mortar and pestle, add some water  and a bit of whole grain oatmeal (also soothing for the skin; you don’t need to grind it for this recipe) until you’ve reached a desirable consistency. Keep the paste moist by covering the area with a warm, damp towel. Allow the affected area to rest for fifteen minutes or so, then bathe in cool water until the paste is dissolved. Repeat as often as necessary—until comfort is achieved and the area has healed.

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

Calendula is kind of the go-to herb for skin care. It can help dry skin, acne-prone skin, aging skin, as well as help to heal wounds, bruising and other injuries. For an all-around skin care and healing product, soak one part dried blossoms to two parts olive or almond oil. Store in a warm, dark place for two weeks, shaking the jar occasionally. Strain and add a bit of vitamin E as a preservative (you can just puncture two vitamin E capsules and squeeze these into the oil; as an added bonus: for some reason, squeezing these little capsules is highly satisfying…).

This oil can be used on anyone for anything; use it on a baby’s skin to heal diaper rash and dry skin (test a small patch first for sensitivity, of course), use on yourself to heal acne, scars, wounds, rashes, eczema, and dry skin. Have sensitive skin? Calendula is soothing and cooling for any skin type.

For oily, acne-prone skin, try this cleanser: combine 3/4 cup strong calendula tea (follow guidelines for chamomile tea, above), 1/4 cup lemon juice (fresh, if possible), 2tbs baking soda, 1tbs aloe vera gel (check the ingredients–NO alcohol). Blend ingredients together and apply with a clean, wet washcloth, gently massaging into face and neck. Leftover cleanser should be refrigerated. Aloe vera gel can be massaged into the skin if it feels tight or can be placed directly on breakouts to treat them. If you are very acne prone, try drinking a cup or two of calendula and chamomile tea daily to help rid the body of toxins and aid elimination (this will be a slightly bitter tea, though not unpleasant).

****

A change in season, particularly moving from winter into spring/summer, always gets me thinking about skin care and the small tweaks that can make a big impact on your skin. Diet is the best place to start and a great way to improve your skin from the inside out. By diet I don’t mean cutting out every treat but simply cutting out some of the sugar, drinking plenty hot water with lemon and using seasonal fruit and veg can make a real difference. With skincare, it is essential to cleanse your face properly with a natural cleanser and hot flannel or sponge but not too often as this can disrupt the ph level and give your skin that tight, dry feeling. Good ingredients and natural tools will clean your skin first time.