Avoiding Skin Allergies

My work as a medical herbalist leads me to examine all facets of modern living and the gamut of symptoms emanating from this is quite extensive. One of the most challenging aspects of my clinical practice is treating or more pertinently, managing the wide range of skin complaints and disorders, many of which are simply an allergic response to some of the more commercial skincare products and toiletries in the mainstream market. 

Many already suffer from a skin problem such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, dry skin, urticaria, or contact dermatitis to name but a few. Allergies per se are also on the increase not all of which lead to skin manifestations of the kind just mentioned. However, I do see an increasing number of patients with skin allergies and skin sensitivities some of which are easily remedied when one examines the ingredients in their regular skincare products. On many occasions I have seen that a simple change such as switching to natural skincare products can have a profound impact with a dramatic improvement in symptoms. Almost always though, an examination of diet and lifestyle in conjunction with the skincare regimes yields the best long-term solution to perennial skin problems that have plagued my patients for most of their life.

Many of the commercial skincare products are mass produced and invariably based on synthetic by-products of the petrochemical industry which makes manufacturing cheap but also produces skincare products that are synthetic and artificial. These ingredients can often irritate the skin making it sensitive and can worsen existing skin conditions. Recent advances in technology and polymer science has broadened the range of ingredients that can now be added into commercial products, all purporting amazing skin benefits including the popular age-defying, anti-wrinkle and youth-promoting moisturisers. Many of the large perfume houses have been selling their own brands of skincare products on the back of their successful perfume labels. They are not always affordable and many will argue they are not always effective especially if you want something that works for your skin, that isn’t full of synthetic ingredients and isn’t likely to bring you out in a rash, or cause a flare-up of an existing skin problem.

The natural skincare products market is a growing and booming industry; no industry shows this more clearly than the organic skincare sector. The Soil Association’s Organic Market Report revealed that UK sales of certified organic health and beauty products increased by 20% in 2014 to £44.6 million. Experts are predicting that the global organic cosmetics market will reach £10.1 billion by 2018. Global demand for organic skincare is at its highest in the USA, Japan and Europe but analysts are also predicting huge growth in India, China, Brazil and Mexico. The trend of natural and organic skincare has seen major developments in the last few years and the cosmetic brands are always in search of the new and exciting natural ingredients and extracts that can be added and marketed in order to keep up with the ever growing demand for natural skincare. This surely has added some pressure on the existing mainstream beauty lines that were not specialising in natural products before. The natural beauty trend is an amazing development that has not only positively revolutionised the beauty industry, but also fundamentally changed our beauty habits for the best.

The changes in lifestyle and the growing knowledge of the modern consumer have brought about more holistic lifestyle choices, including a more natural approach to skincare. Consumers are increasingly recognising that the ageing of the skin depends on the lifestyle, diet and what you put on your skin. So what exactly should we be wary of regarding potential triggers for allergy? Commercial products may contain the following:

Common Irritants/Possible Allergens	Reason for adding it to skincare products
SLS and SLES	Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are detergents and surfactants used in 90% of personal-care products that foam. They can cause skin irritation and exacerbate an existing skin condition. A suitable alternative can be ammonium cocoyl isethionate, castile soap or soapwort.
Alcohol, isopropyl (SD-40)	A very drying and irritating solvent and dehydrator that strips your skin’s moisture and natural immune barrier. Made from propylene, a petroleum derivative and is found in many skin, haircare products, fragrances and antibacterial hand washes It can act as a carrier accelerating the penetration of other harmful chemicals into the skin. Potentially a skin irritant so avoid if at all possible. Alternatives include hydrogen peroxide, witch hazel, tea tree or neem oil.
DEA, MEA & TEA	Diethanolamine (DEA), monoethanolamine (MEA) and triethanolamine (TEA) are key examples of ethanolamines—a chemical group comprised of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) and alcohols. DEA is used as emulsifiers and foaming agents in shampoos, cleaners, and detergents. TEA is used as fragrance, pH adjuster and emulsifying agent. MEA along with the others are almost always in products that foam: bubble bath, body wash, shampoo, soap, facial cleanser. Have been linked to cancers and pure forms are banned in the EU. Combined with other compounds eg. cocoamide DEA is perfectly safe and non- irritating. Natural surfactants include castile soap, yucca extract, soapwort, quillaja bark extract but they may not compare in effectiveness. Safe, non-irritating natural emulsifiers and stabilisers derived from coconut oil are cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
Synthetic fragrances (often labelled as parfum) & synthetic colours	Fragrances are manufactured as a copy of the aromatic component of essential oils. Some could also be purely synthetic, not imitating anything found in nature. Can be very irritating to sensitive skins so avoid both if at all possible. Can try botanical extracts or even essential oils (organic versions) as they will be in their whole, natural form and not a synthetic version which may be using synthetic chemicals in the manufacturing process to which many are allergic to.
PEG (polyethylene glycol)	A chemical used to make things thicker or stickier but also used in cleansers to dissolve oil and grease. It is a stabiliser and performs functions similar to glycerine. It can penetrate the skin so can deliver other ingredients but can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis. Avoid if possible.
PG (propylene glycol) & butylene glycol	Gaseous hydrocarbons which in a liquid state act as surfactants (wetting agents and solvents). They easily penetrate the skin and can weaken the protein and cellular structure. Commonly used to make extracts from herbs. Alternatives could include water extracted herbs and therapeutic essential oils
Triclosan	Often used in antibacterial cleansers and toothpaste but the manufacturing process may produce dioxins (see below), a powerful hormone-disrupting chemical. Use essential oils (organic versions) with antibacterial properties such as tea tree oil, neem oil, thyme or rosemary if possible.
Phthalates	Simply labelled as ‘fragrances’ or used in nail polish, hair spray, and perfumes. They are plasticising chemicals often used in cosmetics but two of which (dibutyl and diethylhexyl) have been have been banned in the EU. Unfortunately fragrances are considered proprietary information so they are not required to be listed on the ingredients label. Cumulative effects can be irritating to the skin.
Dioxins	Existing in the food chain as environmental pollutants, dioxins have made their way into many skin care products. Because they are persistent compounds, they linger inside the body for long periods of time. Dioxins will not be listed on a label, but are often contained in antibacterial agents such as triclosan, PEGs and sodium laureth sulfate.
Formaldehyde	A highly effective preservative which can be added directly, or more often, be released from preservatives such as quaternium-15. These preservatives release small amounts of formaldehyde over time but can lead to sensitisation which means that the longer the product is used, the likelihood of developing a reaction to it. Natural preservatives include essential oils, neem oil, vitamin E, honey, rosemary extract, grapefruit seed extract, benzoin, sweet orange oil or potassium sorbate. See comments below though.
Aluminium-based ingredients	Some studies have linked aluminium to Alzheimer’s disease, though recent research has cast doubt on the connection. Other studies have indicated that aluminium may be linked to breast cancer and other brain disorders and in the form of powder, it is used in products such as antiperspirant deodorants. It can irritate the skin.
Toluene	Toluene is often used in glues, adhesives, chemical detergents, dyes, paint and paint thinners, plastics and many other industrial substances. Often labelled under benzene, methylbenzene, toluol and phenylmethane. Also found in nail polish or hair colouring products and can irritate the skin.
PABA (sunscreen)	Para-aminobenzoic acid or PABA is a chemical substance that is found in the folic acid vitamin and also in several foods including grains, eggs, milk, molasses, liver and kidney. PABA is also prepared industrially for use in sunscreen but can produce sensitivity resulting in classic allergic contact dermatitis as well as photocontact dermatitis. Safer alternatives include titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
Other known culprits of allergy: ·         Silicone-derived emollients ·         Disodium EDTA (and its salts) ·         Essential oils ·         Lanolin ·         Mineral oil ·         Nut oils

Fortunately, we are living though an age of choice where there is a wealth of natural alternatives. It is important that you read the label carefully and choose the most uncomplicated options avoiding known allergens if listed. Examine the sources of the ingredients as they may be from natural products even though they have to be processed in order to extract them. Examine the organic claim in equal measure as the non-organic culprits as residues of pesticides and herbicides in the latter could be the real issue and not the ingredient from the plant itself. 

There are very good reasons why mainstream, commercial formulations contain these ingredients. These can range from providing adequate foaming in shower gels (the nation loves bubbles!) to preventing the product from separating, limiting rancidity and conserving the integrity of the final product. As far as preservatives are concerned, this is a contentious issue. Unless products contain an effective preservative, the product is compromised causing it to degrade and worse still, encouraging the growth of potentially harmful bacteria and/or fungi. Contrary to what is widely perceived, parabens are safe and effective; the claims against them are unsubstantiated and not supported by the scientific community nor indeed cancer charities. However, in sensitive skins, they may cause irritations but this could be due to any of the ingredients in the product. Short of conducting a scientific experiment, attributing allergic properties to parabens is at best misleading. Phenoxyethanol is a popular, synthetic preservative and a paraben-free and propylene glycol-free alternative. It offers a universally highly effective broad-spectrum protection from gram positive and gram negative bacteria, fungi and yeast. Again, doses used in formulations (0.5-1.0%) are low so the potential for allergy should be low-risk, it is certified safe and non-toxic by the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Some of the so-called natural preservatives use synthetic chemicals in the extraction process and worse still, are combined with parabens to make them effective as tests conducted on pure natural preservatives  such as grapefruit seed extract show little or no antimicrobial effect. 

Ethical Dilemmas and Other Considerations
Many people switch to natural skincare products including organic versions in the belief that they are doing something good for the planet as well as their skin. This is laudable but do please examine and research the ingredients carefully – some products and ingredients are hard to source (can we really verify their authenticity and ethical business practices?), some ingredients are very difficult to extract, some need large quantities of raw material and some need to be highly processed if they are to be useful in the skincare industry. 

The harnessing of the highly desirable and natural active constituents from plants is painstakingly difficult, incredibly time-consuming and often very laborious. In reality therefore, all ingredients from plant-based and other natural sources require some degree of processing if they are to be useful and applicable for skincare products in addition to some degree of preservation if they are to last. The use of natural preservatives is controversial, not least of which is the notion of what constitutes ‘natural’. Just because it is natural, doesn’t mean it is safe. After all, arsenic is natural – not sure we would want to advocate its consumption!

Only 100% oil-based products can ideally get away with avoiding preservatives owing to the vitamin E content; this will offer the product some protection against rancidity as it is an antioxidant, however it may not always protect against bacterial or fungal growth. Preservatives are a vital ingredient in skincare products as otherwise, the product will quickly become rancid causing it to degrade; this can produce toxic compounds which can prove harmful to the skin. Moreover, we want to prevent the growth of undesirable bacteria and fungi which will inevitably prolong the shelf-life of the product.

Manufacturers of natural skincare products are not ideally fans of synthetic chemicals but the safety of any product is paramount and should not be compromised in the interests of being 100% ‘natural’, 100% ‘organic’ and 100% free of ‘chemicals’. The human body is full of organic chemicals and many brands play into our need for all things natural and combined with an unhealthy obsession with youth, the prices of some of these products are simply unjustified. It is safe to say that no product can be truly 100% natural given our lifestyles. Most skincare products will last between 6-12 months with preservatives (otherwise it will last between 2-3 weeks at best and only in a fridge!).

Remember, natural products can trigger allergies too – make no mistake. Those with sensitive skins and those prone to atopy (asthma, eczema and/or hay fever) need to be especially careful of plant-based products. It is important to consider the hormonal profile as certain life changes (eg. menopause, pregnancy) or even taking an over-the-counter medicine such as a painkiller can make the skin more sensitive than usual in some individuals. Also consider other factors as described below before ditching your regular skincare product:

• Diet – by far the strongest culprit but by no means exclusive. Given the rise of so many synthetic food ingredients, not all of which can be sourced or controlled, our systems now have to navigate through a minefield of processes to keep us healthy. It is wholly unsurprising that many of us have some form of allergy or sensitivity (with gastrointestinal symptoms and skin manifestations amongst other problems)
• Environment – household dust, pollution, radiation from digital devices all contribute to toxic overload in our systems and overburden the immune system which already works overtime to keep our systems in healthy working order simply by living in this modern world full of potential toxins. Inappropriate and/or excessive immune responses such as skin inflammation or flare ups can be a classic hallmark of immune burden rather than an allergic response to a skincare product to which it has been wrongly attributed.  
• Other products such as fabric detergents or pets (to name but a few); these are notorious allergens for sensitive skins

If you are really concerned, a good way of finding out the culprit of any skin allergy/sensitivity before making any headlong decision to discard your regular skincare product is to conduct an elimination test. Collect together all suspects regarding skincare and avoid them one at a time and using the others as before. Then reintroduce the potential culprit and observe for any symptoms. When trying a new product, always do a patch test first on a part of the body that is not so visible (such as an arm or a leg) and avoid if your skin reacts to the product. Additionally, investigate the range of products that have the ‘free from’ label (and not just for skincare). These are products that have been formulated that avoid gluten, dairy and other known allergens (including some enzymes and GMO ingredients) which may trigger skin allergies.

Conclusion
You have the best knowledge of your own skin. Switch to natural alternatives as far as possible or better still, try making your own bespoke products which will work best for you. Adopting a more holistic approach to skincare should also include a wholescale review of diet and lifestyle, all of which should mitigate any risk of skin allergies or sensitivities. 

You can read the newsletter article here:  http://www.soapmakingmagazine.co.uk/blog/index.php/2016/11/28/avoiding-skin-allergies/