Tuesday 23 September 2014

Defying Age Spots

1 in 3 women is affected by uneven skin tone, becoming more noticeable as they get older. There are lots of treatments that can really help. Age spotsin particular (also known as hyperpigmentation) are flat, brown, grey, or black spots on the skin. They usually occur on areas that have been exposed to the sun. Categories of age spots include 'liver spots' (true hyperpigmentation caused by overproduction of the skin pigment melanin), melasma (or chloasma) which are large patches of discolouration, usually on the cheekbones, upper lip and chin, cased by hormonal changes invariably after pregnancy, during the menopause or when taking the contraceptive pill, and dark spots caused by scarring or skin infection.

What Causes Age Spots?
Age spots are caused by an excess production of melanin. Despite the name, doctors don’t always know why age spots develop. They may be caused by skin ageing, sun exposure, or other forms of ultraviolet light exposure, such as tanning beds. You are most likely to develop age spots on the areas of your skin that receive the most sun exposure, including:

  • your face
  • the back of your hands
  • your shoulders
  • your forearms

Who Is at Risk for Age Spots?
People of any age, sex, or race can develop age spots. However, age spots are more common in people with certain risk factors. These include:

  • being older than 40 years old
  • having fair skin
  • having a history of frequent sun exposure
  • having a history of frequent tanning bed use

What are the Symptoms of Age Spots?
Age spots can vary so much but generally there are some common symptoms which one can look out for. They can:

  • range from light brown to black in colour
  • have the same texture as the rest of your skin
  • are painless
  • are usually on sun-exposed areas of the skin

How are Age Spots Diagnosed?
Your doctor will usually diagnose age spots by looking at your skin. If your doctor is worried that a dark area is not an age spot, he may perform a biopsy. A small piece of skin will be removed and checked for cancer or other abnormalities.

How are Age Spots Treated?
Age spots are not dangerous and do cause any health problems. Treatment is not necessary. However, some people want to remove age spots, because they do not like the way they look. Age spot treatments include:

a) Prescription Medications: Your doctor may prescribe bleaching creams to fade the age spots gradually., These usually contain hydroquinone, with or without retinoids such as tretinoin, Bleaching creams usually take several months to fade age spots. You will need to wear sunscreen at all times during treatment. Bleaching and tretinoin creams make your skin more sensitive to UV damage.

b) Medical Procedures: There are several medical procedures that can treat age spots. Each medical procedure carries a risk of side effects. Ask to your dermatologist or plastic surgeon about which treatment is the most appropriate for your skin. Medical procedures for age spots include:
  • laser treatment to destroy the cells that produce melanin
  • chemical peels to burn the outer layer of your skin, allowing new skin to grow in its place
  • dermabrasion, which sands off the outer layers of the skin so new skin can grow in its place
  • cryosurgery, which freezes age spots with liquid nitrogen
  • Always wear sunscreen after treatment to protect your healing skin from UV damage

c) Home Treatments: There are many over-the-counter creams available that are marketed for removing age spots. These creams are not as strong as prescription creams. They may or may not effectively remove your excess skin pigmentation. If you want to use an over-the-counter cream, choose one that contains hydroquionone, deoxyarbutin, glycolic acid, alpha hydroxy acid, or kojic acid. Cosmetics do not remove age spots. Instead, they cover them when applied. Ask your dermatologist, plastic surgeon, or makeup counter salesperson to recommend brands that effectively conceal age spots.

Cosmetics: Dark Spot Correctors
Much of this will be dictated by personal choice and what works as many of the commercial cosmetic products to correct dark spots and pretty much comparable. However, customers I have asked to have their favourites; it is by no means a reliable survey, just lucky enough to ask those who had age spots....
 
Prognosis of Age Spots
Age spots are changes to the skin that are harmless and do not cause pain. On rare occasions, age spots can make skin cancer more difficult to diagnose. The appearance of age spots can cause emotional distress to some people. They can often be removed or reduced with treatment.

Preventing Age Spots
Age spots cannot always be prevented. However, you can reduce your chances of getting them by doing the following:

  • Avoid the sun between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. when the sun’s rays are most intense.
  • Wear a sunscreen every day. It should have a sun protection factor (SPF) rating of at least 15 and contain both UVA and UVB protection.
  • Apply sunscreen at least 30 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every two hours, more often if swimming or perspiring.
  • Wear protective clothing such as hats, pants, and long-sleeved shirts. These help protect your skin from UV rays. For the best protection, wear UV-blocking clothes with an ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of at least 40 or 50.

Sunday 3 August 2014

Out of Africa


A growing trend in skincare, cosmetics and beauty products is a shift from chemical formulations to those based on botanical ingredients with many beauty companies turning to Africa to find buzz-worthy ingredients. Africa boasts a long lived tradition of creating skin and hair care recipes from the natural ingredients provided by its rich and varied landscape.  As these ingredients gain popularity in commercial formulations, they have also become readily available to natural skin and hair care artisans, lending a fresh perspective on these traditional ingredients.  Even the big international cosmetics companies are tapping into the secrets that Mother Nature has so very kindly bestowed upon us and are seeking natural, botanical ingredients - a far cry from the technological revolution in skincare based on cutting edge chemicals and anti-ageing miracle gems. Perhaps the biggest cosmetics success story to come out of Africa is Moroccanoil (http://www.moroccanoil.com/united-kingdom/countryselector), a hair-and skin-care company that features argan oil, a now ubiquitous ingredient in many a chemists' and department store beauty shelves. Though the brand gets its argan oil from all over the world, not just Morocco, where the argan tree is indigenous, its success has helped ignite interest in other raw materials found in Africa, such as baobab-tree extract, moringa seed oil and shea nut butter. Shea butter is nothing new to the beauty-savvy consumer; the women of Ghana collect the shea nuts which is widely used in botanical skincare products. One of the best suppliers of shea butter products in the UK is Shea Butter Cottage (http://akuawood.co.uk/)


This is not just a fad, this is a global trend. At one time shea and cocoa butters from Africa were mysterious ingredients touted to have remarkable softening and healing properties for the skin.  So was green tea, which has been used by Japanese women for centuries to soften the skin and target wrinkles. Aloe vera, believed to have originated in the Sudan, is said to be soothing, healing and moisturising to the skin. All of these ingredients can be found in modern skin care products.  Cosmetic and skin care companies continue to mine the world’s indigenous plants and trees for natural products. I have previously written about such exotic ingredients in an earlier post on global beauty traditions: http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/global-beauty-traditions.html  Other useful ingredients gaining popularity include the following:

AVOCADO OIL
Avocado Oil is a rich, moisturising ingredient that is also great for dry skin formulations, and intensive hair treatments.  It is an incredibly popular ingredient for soap making being high in vitamins A, B1, B2, B5 (Panthothenic acid), Vitamin D, E, minerals, protein, lecithin and fatty acids. Avocado Oil makes a nutritive addition to skin and hair care formulas.  Avocado Oil can be a little heavy, so use it sparingly in light formulations such as facial recipes or massage oils.  Use it liberally in moisturising soaps, intensive conditioners, and balms.

AFRICAN MANGO
The Mango Fruit Diet is the latest health craze to sweep the planet. So move over acai berries, pomegranate and hybrid broccoli, because the African Mango has arrived. Hailed as the latest ‘superfood’, the protein-rich seeds from this Cameroon-based fruit promise to lower blood fat levels and raise your metabolism – resulting in weight loss and lower cholesterol without having to change your diet. With a burgeoning obesity crisis in the UK, this may well be our saving grace.

ARGAN OIL
Argan oil comes from the fruit of the argan tree, native to Morocco. It is used to reduce blemishes, reduce scars left by acne, prevent stretch marks, moisturise and relieve chapped and dry skin. It’s also used to protect skin elasticity and promote healthy skin and hair.  I have previously written extensively about the history of this amazing oil and skincare product (http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/exploring-hype-argan-oil.html). 

BAOBAB OIL

Baobab oil is derived from seeds of the baobab tree native to eastern and southern Africa.  Baobab oil has been used in African skin care for centuries as a rub to relieve aches and rheumatism. In Zambia, an infusion of the roots was used to bathe babies to promote smooth skin. It is a moisturising ingredient used in products for skin and hair and is said to improve elasticity and encourage regeneration of skin cells. It doesn’t clog pores, which makes it an excellent ingredient for products for eczema and psoriasis. Baobab Oil is golden in colour, with a light, nutty aroma.  It contains a high level of essential fatty acids, as well as a nutritive boost of vitamins A, D, and E.  Baobab Oil is great for moisturising both skin and hair.  It can help to improve elasticity, regenerate cells, all the while leaving pores clean and clear.  An excellent ingredient for eczema or psoriasis, Baobab Oil continues to be a boon to the natural skin care industry, as it has for centuries in Africa. With six-times more vitamin C than an orange, twice as much calcium than milk, six-times more potassium than a banana, AND four-times more antioxidants than other dried berries – it has plenty to boast about. 

MARULA OIL
Marula Oil is an all-natural, cold pressed, highly nutritious, light textured oil. Hand harvested by omen in village collectives from the exotic fruit seed kernels of bio dynamic and drought resistant Marula trees, indigenous to Southern Africa and Madagascar. The geographic position on the west edge of Southern Africa gives rise to certain climatic characteristics. The low rainfall and endless hours of bright sunshine create the perfect environment - unlike any other in the world - to produce exceptional growing conditions for the Marula trees to bear their annual fruit. This delicious fruit contains 4 times as much Vitamin C as an orange. Marula leaves and bark have wonderful properties but the skin care properties of natural Marula Oil are perhaps the best of all. This healing oil is widely used for its medicinal benefits by Southern African women and men and has been part of numerous beauty rituals for centuries to protect the skin and hair from the harsh and dry weather conditions.Today’s modern scientific research reveals and confirms the secrets of Marula Oil. This multipurpose oil contains  powerful antioxidants, high concentrations of nutrients, minerals and essential fatty acids that protect against environmental aggressors, reverse photodamage, boost cellular activity, hydrate at the deepest levels and repair the skin. The anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties of Marula Oil reduce
the need for preservatives. Marula Oil has a clear, pale, golden-brown colour with a pleasant sweet aroma.

Scientific Evidence
Marula Oil contains high levels of important anti-oxidants including, Vitamin C, tocopherol (vitamin E), tochotrienol, phenolic compounds, essential amino acids and flavonoids that help cells renew and resist damaging effects of the environment. With regular use, Marula Oil delivers advanced protection against photoageing - neutralising free radicals, helping build collagen, and providing antioxidant protection. More anti-oxidant protection means more youthful looking skin and better defence against
premature skin ageing. Marula Oil is ideal for dull, ageing skin, under-nourished skin and frequent travellers. Marula Oil is rich in essential fatty acids Omega 9-oleic and Omega 6-linoleic that deeply hydrate and reduce redness while nourishing, healing, moisturising and improving skin elasticity. Marula Oil reduces trans epidermal water loss and increases the smoothness of skin. Easily absorbed, Marula Oil supports the natural build up of the skin’s lipid layers and possesses anti- inflammatory properties. Marula Oil is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive, sun damaged skin, post-treatment, stretchmarks and scar tissue while providing nutrition to the skin. Amongst its many properties, is also:
  • softens & minimises the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles.
  • improves & restores skin elasticity for a more youthful & radiant skin.
  • improves skin tone & firmness.
  • soothes irritation.
Marula Oil is fast absorbing, light, and has a non-greasy texture. The key to Marula’s outstanding performance is its fine molecular structure, which contributes to its effectiveness not only as a skin hydrator but also as a protector. Marula Oil is pH balanced, non-comedogenic and has anti-microbial properties which can help heal acne blemishes and scarring. It is appropriate for all skin types.

Chemical Structure
Marula Oil contains a large proportion of monounsaturated fatty acids and natural antioxidants which make the oil very stable. The fatty acid composition of marula oil includes: mono-unsaturated fatty acids:
  • Oleic acid (70-78 %)
  • Polyunsaturated fatty acids: Linoleic acid (4.0-7.0 %),
  • Alpha-linolenic acid (0.1-0.7 %)
  • Saturated fatty acids: Palmitic acid (9-12 %), 
  • Stearic acid (5.0-8.0 %),
  • Arachidonic acid (0.3-0.7 %)
  • Other components include: tocopherols, sterols and flavonoids with antioxidant action, procyanidin, galattotannin and catechins are also found in Marula Oil.
Ethical Trade
This miracle oil nourishes not only our beautiful skin, but also the communities that produce it. Marula Oil is nature’s gift that contributes to rural and social development. Our Marula Oil is proudly sourced in South Africa through a Fair Trade program that supports women in village collectives, protects the environment and Marula trees. In South Africa there are a number of eco-friendly, low-tech enterprises designed to empower and uplift women in rural communities and provide a sustainable income for families in the tribal lands.Passed down from generations, women have cracked the nut of the Marula fruit to extract precious kernels from which the oil is made. This hand pressed process gives the oil its purity.The Marula trees are protected in South Africa where strict policies are in place to ensure environmentally friendly treatment and sustainable harvesting of Marula trees and fruit. This means that each item bearing the African Botanics (one of the finest producers of marula oil) name has a proud heritage of environmental responsibility and community care.

MANKETTI/MONGONGO OIL
Manketti Oil, or Mongongo Oil, is derived from trees that grow throughout the African continent.  The nuts of this tree produce a highly emollient oil that can help protect the skin from harsh winds and dry climates.  It is used in a traditional Kwangali hair oil treatment, and makes an excellent ingredient for moisturizing formulations such as body butters, salves, balms, and ointments.

MORINGA OIL
Moringa oil(Moringa oleifera), also known as behen oil, comes from the moringa tree, or “miracle tree,” and was used in ancient cultures for its healing properties. Those properties must have been a bit of a miracle, because ancient Egyptians placed vases of moringa oil in their tombs. Moringa oil can be found in lotions, balms, and scrubs. It is light in texture, but carries a lot of weight in the world of natural skin care and medicine.  Its potent antioxidants have made Moringa Oil a sought after ingredient, even by ancient cultures.  Today, the oil is popular for use in massage and aromatherapy applications.  It also makes a great addition to light lotions, creams, and body or hair oils.

PAPAYA OIL
Papaya Oil is high in oleic acid, making it a highly moisturising oil.  Its moisturising properties, paired with its light texture make Papaya Oil an ideal ingredient for skin and hair care.  Papaya Oil can be used in almost any kind of formulation.  Use Papaya Oil in light lotions and creams, body scrubs, and hair conditioners or oils.  Papaya Oil also makes a great massage oil.

PASSION FLOWER OIL
Maracuja (Passion Flower) Oil is an exceptional ingredient for personal care.  It contains a huge amount of Vitamin C, a component not often found in skin care ingredients.  Vitamin C can help to energise skin's appearance, adding an extra punch to facial formulations.  Maracuja is also highly moisturising and rich in fatty acids, calcium, and phosphorous.  Its light texture makes it extremely versatile. It can be used in facial serums, creams, lotions, lip balms, or even hair care products.

ROOIBOS
Rooibos (“red bush”) tea has been used for years in South African medicine to treat acne, eczema, sunburns and other skin irritations. It contains alpha hydroxy acids and antioxidants.  It can be found in moisturizers and facial toners.  Indigenous to South Africa, the rooibos plant has been consumed as a tasty tea for centuries due to its healing benefits. Now, it’s making a name for itself in the beauty industry – and it’s not hard to see why. Packed with anti-oxidants and minerals to prevent premature ageing, zinc (essential to the skin’s metabolism), and its own natural alphahydroxy acid to smooth and refines fine lines and wrinkles), this plant also helps with sensitive and problematic skin conditions. AND it makes for a delicious and refreshing cup of tea!

SHEA BUTTER

Natural, unrefined Shea butter not only benefits the hair, but also the skin – both in butters and oils. Extracted from the nut of the African Shea tree, it moisturises, has natural sun protection qualities, helps heals cuts and burns, minimises stretch marks and helps treat skin ailments such as eczema and very dry skin. One of the best suppliers of shea butter products in the UK is Shea Butter Cottage (http://akuawood.co.uk/)


TAMANU OIL
Tamanu oil is made from crushing the dried nuts of the tamanu tree, which is found in Pacific and Asia tropical regions. It soothes the skin, relieves irritations including sunburn, inflammation and rashes.  It is hydrating and helps regenerate skin cells.  It is used undiluted as a treatment for eczema, psoriasis, cuts and wounds.  A small percentage is added to lip balms and lotions.

WATERMELON SEED OIL
Kalahari (Watermelon Seed) Oil is also known as Ootonga Oil in Africa.  It has a delightfully light texture while being highly moisturising, making it a versatile ingredient in both hair and skin care.  Kalahari Seed Oil can help to restore skins elasticity, and is often used in belly oils and balms for expecting mothers.  The oil is also popular for use as an alternative to mineral baby oils.  Kalahari Oil is an excellent conditioner of both the hair and skin.  It is great for use in scrubs, soaps, and light lotions and hair oils.

YANGU OIL
Yangu Oil, also called Cape Chestnut Oil is a traditional ingredient in African Skin Care.  Generations of African people have used natural Yangu Oil to condition their hair and skin.  It is currently a popular ingredient in cosmetics and bath & body products due to its high content of essential fatty acids.  Yangu Oil may also provide a degree of ultra violet protection.  It makes an excellent ingredient for soaps, lotions, shampoo bars, hair conditioners, or balms.

Summary

Many commercial facial oils now include some or all of these more exotic ingredients due to their amazing and superior skincare properties over the more commonly and widely available alternatives. I have previously written about the benefits of facial oils in an earlier post:http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/facial-oils.html The use of these plant oils from Africa remains controversial as there is certainly a pressing need for sustainability of the ecology and environment of Africa. Deforestation is taking place at an alarming rate, and this situation will continue to escalate unless local communities can be given a sufficiently attractive and viable reason to look after their forests and animals. The development of international markets for the tree seed oils is a major step towards solving this growing dilemma. In Zambia the development of sustainable harvest systems and market outlets for the highly valued indigenous tree seed oils, along with the establishment of sustainable wild harvest for ‘non-timber forest products’ to accredited international certification criteria has enable sustainable livelihoods for large numbers of disadvantaged rural communities from indigenous plant products at the same time as helping to maintain the natural environment.


References
African Botanics: http://www.africanbotanics.com/ 
Out of Africa: http://www.outofafricashea.com/
Shea Butter Cottage: http://akuawood.co.uk/ 
Planet Botanicals: http://www.planetbotanicals.com/products/sheabodyoil.html 

Sunday 13 July 2014

Snail Gel - Whatever next?

Over the years, women have tried all sorts of treatments and remedies, some of which are downright bizarre, in order to stay looking young. Cleopatra was famed for her fondness for milk baths and more recently, we have spa treatments ranging from vampire face masks to bird poo facials and urine therapy. I have already written about the use of another new craze bee venom in an earlier post: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/the-latest-beauty-fad-bee-venom.html. Other strange rituals include caviar creams (the skincare manufacturer La Prairie make a fortune from this product) and solid gold facials. You can read more about other strange beauty treatments throughout history in this interesting post: http://blog.myskin.com/insights/strange-beauty-treatments-throughout-history/. However, whether any of these treatments actually work is another matter entirely yet, and without definitive proof, it is baffling that people flock to try the latest craze in the perpetual quest to stay young-looking. A relative 'newby' to the market is snail gel and whilst it is a far cry from the glamorous world of skincare, it does not seem to faze the hardy perennials who are more than willing to try this 'elixir of youth' no matter how unappealing and insane the prospect is regarding its origin. This was all on the basis of claims that a 'miraculous' product containing anti-oxidant and regenerating ingredients profoundly delayed skin ageing. The so-called magical product was in fact an extract from snails and was advertised as a panacea to eliminate wrinkles, scars, stretch marks, burns, acne and sunspots. So was there any basis to these claims?

Background
The properties of snail slime was in fact an accidental discovery in the 1960s, when a Spanish oncologist called Rafael Abad subjected snails to radiation therapy which was used to treat cancer and observed that they released a substance totally different from the slime that they normally use to move. Abad also noticed that the snails very rapidly cured small wounds on their skin caused by the radiation. Observing the repair capacity of the snails, Abad tested the effects of this substance on human skin. Snail slime is obtained by hand in specialised farms (in Chile, for example). The snail is stimulated with a wooden stick and, feeling attacked, it secretes this special substance to defend itself. Litres of this substance are sent to laboratories in Europe (at 1,000 euros per litre!) where it is analysed, purified and filtered to obtain the cosmetic ingredient (SSF). Due to the now widespread inclusion of SSF in a variety of skincare products, the substance even has an INCI code, which means it is registered – as Snail Secretion Filtrate (SSF) – on an international list of cosmetic ingredients. (INCI = International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). Creams and serums on the market contain 10-15% SSF. The common snail (Cryptomphalus aspersa) secretes a substance which promotes skin regeneration and minimises the effect of the free radicals responsible for premature ageing of the skin.

But is snail slime really so miraculous?

History of Use
The slime produced by terrestrial molluscs (slugs and snails) has interesting properties which have been utilised for centuries for the treatment of minor wounds and other skin disorders such as warts. Both slugs and snails secrete visco-elastic slime or mucus which acts both as an adhesive and lubricant and enables the creatures to adhere to, and glide over, all types of surfaces including rough or potentially hostile terrain. Mucus also helps to prevent the creatures from drying out, renders them fairly unattractive as food for  predators and is also thought to help prevent infection and facilitate healing.For centuries snails, and to a lesser extent slugs, have been used both as a food and as a treatment for a variety of medical conditions. In southern Italy, the common garden slug, Arion hortensis, is sometimes swallowed whole as a treatment for gastritis or stomach ulcers.  In America slugs are not thought to be swallowed live in this way, but a recipe for ‘Slug Syrup’ instructs that a jar be filled with alternating layers of slugs and sugar. After about a day, when the sugar has ‘dissolved’ the slugs, the resulting mixture is run through a sieve, after which 1/3 grain alcohol is added by volume. The resulting syrup be used for the treatment  of ulcers, bronchitis, asthma,  claiming that it is able to ‘heal these conditions when nothing else will.’

Current Medical Use
Snail and slug slime have been used sporadically as skin treatments since the time of the Ancient Greeks; Hippocrates reportedly recommended the use of crushed snails to relieve inflamed skin and some 20 years ago, the potential of snail slime was noted by Chilean snail farmers who found that skin lesions healed quickly, with no scars, when they handled snails for the French food market. This observation resulted in the production of ‘Elicina’ a Chilean snail slime-based product. In 2010 ‘Missha’ then launched Super ‘Aqua Cell Renew Snail Cream’, claiming that its 70% snail extract ‘soothes regenerates and heals skin’. However, long before this, there was evidence of its use in wound healing and skin restoration completely discordant with its cosmetic and commercial appeal as an anti-ageing product. Snail slime based products are claimed to be the new miracle face-fixer in the US where they are used to treat acne, reduce pigmentation and scarring, and combat wrinkles.

Scientific evidence which provides some credible basis for the possible use of slime in wound management may be found in report published in 2008.  The authors found that slime from Cryptomphalus aspersa (also known as Helix aspersa or the common garden snail) contains antioxidant superoxide dismutase (SOD) and Glutathione-S-Transferase Activity (GST) activities. Antioxidants are substances that may protect cells from the damage caused by unstable molecules known as free radicals or reactive oxygen species. SODs act as antioxidants and protect cellular components from being oxidized by reactive oxygen species. The authors also reported that the snail slime stimulated fibroblast proliferation, extracellular matrix assembly and the regulation of metalloproteinase activities and concluded that these effects together provided an array of molecular mechanisms underlying the secretion’s induced cellular regeneration, thereby supporting its possible use in repair of wounded tissues.  In a subsequent study it was also demonstrated that the slime increased migration and increased the expression of cell-cell and cell-substrate adhesion molecules in mammalian fibroblast and keratinocyte cells. It should be noted that some of these properties are analogous to claims made for some modern wound management materials.

Composition of Snail Slime

The composition of slime is thought to vary according to species, and it is believed that it is possible that each may also be able to vary its formulation. Mucus consists of a complex mix of proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans, glycoprotein enzymes, hyaluronic acid, copper peptides, antimicrobial peptides, and metal ions including substantial quantities of zinc, iron, copper and manganese. The presence within the slime of these complex polymers, may have particular relevance for wound healing as many of the acdemic literature contains numerous references to the importance of these materials in the healing cascade.

Current Cosmetic Use
Each laboratory has its own formulas, but the final product usually contains the following ingredients:
  • allantoin: regenerates skin tissue and smoothes irritated skin.
  • collagen and elastin: proteins that form the 'backbone' of the skin.
  • glycolic acid: an exfoliant that eliminates dead cells and that helps other ingredients penetrate hair follicles to repair damaged tissues.
  • hyaluronic acid: A moisturising and regenerating ingredient that lubricates and softens the skin.
Scientific Studies
An study performed in 2004 showed that intensive treatment over 90 days with snail secretion filtrate (SSF) significantly reduced the number of wrinkles: fine lines by 26.7% and coarse wrinkles by 45.5%. In more recent research (December 2012) into skin samples artificially kept alive, it was found that SSF enabled cells to multiply more easily and increased collagen production. Both studies were conducted in animal models.

Studies have also shown that mucus contains peptides such as mucin which possess antibacterial activity against both gram positive and gram negative bacteria. These antimicrobial peptides not only act as natural antibiotics, but also stimulate many elements of the immune system, including barrier repair and inflammatory cell recruitment. The antibacterial factor from the body surface of the giant East African snail, Achatina fulica, for example, exhibited highly positive antibacterial activity both for the gram-positive bacteria, Bacillus subtilis and Staphylococcus aureus and for the gram-negative bacteria, Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, but this activity was lost  when the material was heated at 75º C for 5 min. The antibacterial factor of the snail mucus was shown to be a glycoprotein.These local anaesthetic properties (if confirmed) coupled with the antimicrobial properties and hygroscopic nature of the slime might offer significant benefits in the treatment of minor but painful wounds such as superficial burns in humans, hence its use in skincare.

Efficacy, no miracles
When purchasing snail slime-based cosmetics, be sure to ask for a brand that offers guarantees that the product’s SSF comes from snail extract obtained through stimulation. Hundreds of poor-quality imitations are offered nowadays, usually through the internet. Nonetheless, the effects of snail slime extract, even of the best quality, are not as spectacular as announced originally: it softens skin wrinkles because it hydrates them, but it does not eliminate the wrinkles entirely. It also fails to make stretch and scar marks disappear completely, although dermatologists do recommend it to patients undergoing radiotherapy, as it helps to heal wounds and burns.

Conclusions
The use of slugs and snail is not without risk, however, as these can sometimes act as vectors of disease. E.coli and other bacteria present in their faeces have a relatively long external and internal survival time. Slugs and snails can also become a vector of rat lungworm a disease caused by a parasitic worm Angiostrongylus cantonensis. Normally carried by rats, the molluscs become infected by consuming the infected faeces of carrier rats. The parasite develops further in the slugs and snails and if the infected molluscs are consumed in turn by rats the life cycle is completed.

A. cantonensis generally poses relatively little threat to humans as infections are very rare, although they can occur from consumption of undercooked or raw infected slugs and snails either by design or by consuming produce that has not been adequately washed and therefore contains a small slug or a snail. The fresh slime of snails and slugs can also have lungworms, which may be passed on to humans and other animals, although the risks are probably lower with dry slime as outside of hosts the lungworm dies quickly.

Lungworms are dangerous because once ingested they first head to the brain where they can cause meningitis type symptoms, with damage to brain tissue and swelling of the brain before the lungworm dies. Many people show no symptoms at all before the lungworm dies but others are greatly affected. In Sydney in 2011 one baby girl died due to lungworm infection and adults have had severe brain injuries after eating slugs. This small number of cases suggests that the risk of infection is possibly low, although the consequences can be disastrous.

Clearly there are some intriguing possibilities concerning the potential value of snail secretions in the treatment of wounds. These findings, together with the positive results of a simple study involving the treatment of a wart, provide some support for empirical observations made in different parts of the world which led to the use of these materials for medical purposes. Whilst it is true that in some instances these treatments also involve a degree of magic or superstitious ritual, this does not of itself mean that they have no scientific merit. Indeed, a direct parallel exists to the use of maggots, leeches, bees and bee products, all of which were used for centuries before the actual mechanisms of action were clearly defined or understood. However, the use of snail slime in cosmetics and skincare as an anti-ageing ingredient is more questionable and requires substantial clinical proof before many of the claims can be taken seriously..... well, for me at least!

References:
  1. http://www.worldwidewounds.com/2013/July/Thomas/slug-steve-thomas.html
  2. http://www.thehealthyskinblog.org/snail-slime-scam-or-panacea/
  3. http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Formulation-Science/Scientists-develop-appetite-for-escargot-due-to-its-skin-regeneration-properties
  4. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1062150/
  5. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22171745

Saturday 14 June 2014

History of Cosmetic Surgery



Plastic surgery, the practice of reshaping body tissues for reconstructive or aesthetic purposes dates back to antiquity. Derived from the Greek plastikos, meaning “to mold,” plastic surgery holds a critical place in cultures all over the world. For centuries, tribes would disc their lips, stretch their earlobes, bind their feet, file their teeth, and tattoo and scar their skin. If contemporary popular series such as Extreme Makeover and Nip/Tuck are any indication, plastic surgery has not lost any of its cultural power. While filed teeth may not appeal to everyone, men and women of today still have a wide range of surgical procedures from which to choose, including liposuction, nose jobs, eyelid surgery, tummy tucks, and breast augmentation and reduction. The term “plastic surgery” also includes nonsurgical options such as Botox, microdermabrasion, collagen injections, laser hair removal, and chemical peels. Plastic surgery, however, was not always so readily available or varied and was even shrouded in mystery, magic, and eroticism.

Ancient Egypt: Plastic Surgery to Recognize the Dead
While the Egyptians did not practice extreme forms of plastic surgery on the living, they would often prepare their dead using principles of plastic surgery. For example, Ramses II's mummy was surgically altered by having a small bone and a handful of seeds inserted into his nose to ensure that his most prominent feature would be recognizable in the afterlife. The mummy of Queen Nunjmet also had bandages stuffed in her cheeks and belly in the same sense that modern plastic surgeons implant silicone into a body. While the Edwin Smith Papyrus shows that the Egyptians had skills to perform similar surgical procedures on the living, there is no solid documentation that is was actually done. Scholars suggest this reluctance to perform plastic surgery on the living was due to the Egyptian belief that one’s face remained the same in the afterlife and, therefore, should remain recognizable even after death (DiBacco 1994).

Ancient India: The Birthplace of Plastic Surgery
Indian Method of Rhinoplasty
The Indian Method of 'rhinoplasty' which
involved cutting skin from the forehead or cheek,
 was kept secret for centuries in India
Indian Method of Rhinoplasty which involved cutting skin from the forehead or cheek, was kept secret for centuries in India. Most historians agree that the first recorded account of reconstructive plastic surgery on the living is found in ancient Indian Sanskrit texts. These texts describe procedures to repair noses and ears that were lost either as punishment for crimes (such as adultery) or in battle. Hindu surgeon Sushruta, working near the modern-day city of Varanasi described the “attached flap” method of plastic surgery in his 600 B.C. text Sushruta Samhita. The procedure involves reconstructing the nose by cutting skin from either the cheek or forehead, twisting the skin skin-side-out over a leaf of the appropriate size, and sewing the skin into place. To keep the air passages open during healing, two polished wooden tubes would be inserted into the nostrils. This method became known as the “Indian Method of Rhinoplasty” and was kept secret for centuries in India (Haiken 1997).

Ancient Rome: Plastic Surgery and Roman Baths
By the first century B.C., Romans were also practicing advanced plastic surgery procedures, perhaps prompted by the very public Roman baths. In a culture that praised the beauty of the naked body in both art and poetry, Romans viewed any abnormality, particularly the genitalia, with suspicion or even amusement. Consequently, one of the most popular plastic surgery procedures appeared to be circumcision removal, which is described in a rather detached way by Cornelius Celsus’s text De re medicina during the reign of Tiberius (A.D. 14-37). Celsus even describes a “breast reduction” surgery on an obese man whose breasts were “unsightly” and “shameful.”

Roman surgeons would also remove scars--particularly those on the back, which were marks of shame because they suggested that a man had turned his back in battle or, worse, he had been whipped like a slave. The poet Martial (A.D. 40-104) suggests that some slaves during his time had their brands removed by surgeons, but he gives no details of the procedures. Surgeons would often operate on gladiators who had noses and ears chopped off and on foreigners who would try to fit into Roman society.

Middle Ages: Decline of Plastic Surgery
During the time of Galen (A.D. 129-216), plastic surgery gained momentum and sophistication due to increased obsession with the human body. Galen attempted to cure eyes that squinted and drooped,and performed aesthetic rhinoplasty on both women and men of wealth who simply wanted a new nose. After the fall of Rome, however, many of Galen’s medical texts were lost; of his 600 books, only 20 survive. Though there were discussion of proper dental care during the Middle Ages, surgery in general was deemed to be pagan and sinful because the spilling of blood by a surgeon and the power he held over the body were akin to magic.

The Renaissance: A Brief Rise in Plastic Surgery
Gaspare Tagliacozzi
Early 'nose jobs' involved
taking skin grafts from the upper arm
and attaching the flap to the nose
Translations of Galen re-entered Western culture during the late Middle Ages as crusaders encountered Arabic texts. For a brief time, plastic surgery experienced a rebirth of sorts, though mostly in barber shops. Two Sicilian barbers, a father and son team, would use skin flaps from the cheek or upper arm to rebuild a nose. The arm flap left less of a scar but demanded that the flap, still attached to the ear be joined to the nose for as long as twenty days. As in India, such surgery was a “trade secret passed on from father to son” (Gilman 1999).

Heinrich von Pfalzpaint, a knight from the Teutonic order, also held secret the procedure of a nose job that was taught to him by a foreigner and made him “very much money.” Many surgeons took skin grafts from donors, such as a neighbor’s pig, but were confused when the new nose would shrivel up and fall off. They concluded that the flesh was “sympathetic,” meaning that the graft died when its owner died.
Gaspare Tagliacozzi
Early "nose jobs" involved taking skin grafts from the upper arm and attaching the flap to the nose.
Most plastic surgeons today recognize Italian Gasparo Tagliacozzi (1546-1599) as the “father of modern plastic surgery” and as the first author of a plastic surgery textbook, De curtorum chirugiau (1597). Noting the need for plastic surgery due to “frequent duels, street brawls, and other clashes of armed men” (Haiken 1997) as well as a pervasive outbreak of syphilis which destroyed the nose, Taglioacozzi experimented with the use of pedicles which involves relocating a section of skin, subcutaneous tissues, and vasculature to another area to cover a wound. Specifically, Tagliacozzi would take skin grafts from the upper arm and, after several painful procedures, attach the flap onto the nose. Motivated by radical claims of autonomy present in the High Renaissance (e.g., Tagliacozzi is significant because in contrast to prevailing views that interpreted illness as a punishment, he used the vocabulary of High Renaissance humanists such as Giovanni Francesco Pico della Mirandola (1463-94), who advocated autonomous self-remaking individual as justification for his surgical innovations.
For Taglioacozzi, plastic surgery was one way humankind seeks improvement of self, both physically and emotionally. Still, his reconstructed nose was still a “virtual” nose that could fall off if the user blew too hard, and young women with reconstructed noses were hardly objects of desire (Gilman 1999). Young women who lost their noses could be disowned by their fiancés because it suggested either a venereal or moral disease. However, Tagliacozzi mused whether a reconstructed nose was still grounds for terminating a marriage arrangement. For a time in Renaissance Europe, Tagliacozzi’s surgical innovations promised at least partial restoration of the nose but, due to the religious zeal of the Counterreformation and the concomitant emphasis on the syphilitic nose as a justifiable punishment from God, Tagliacozzi’s work disappeared (Haiken 1997).

The Enlightened Nose
Plastic surgery would reappear in Europe in 1794 when British surgeons witnessed an Indian bricklayer repaired the nose of a British cattle driver who had had his nose and hand cut off while a prisoner of Tiu Sultan. British surgeons then imported the procedure to northern Europe, where interest rapidly grew. In 1818, Karl Ferdinand Graefe (1787-1840) coined the term “plastic surgery” and described connected grafts in his 1818 text titled Rhinoplastik. Graefe, like Tagliacozzi, believed that the world needed to see the nose-less patient in medical terms rather than as a morally branded sinner. Graefe further attempted to remove the moral stigma associated with nose reconstruction by giving the procedure a classical name (rhinoplasty) similar to other surgical procedures.

The move to a medical model for understanding the lost nose began to spread. However, the first notable plastic surgeon in the United States, John Peter Mettauer of Virginia (who primarily operated on cleft palates and hypospadias using tools he designed himself), still struggled with American surgeons who lived by Dryden’s admonition that “God did not make his Works for man to mend” (Gilman 1999). In addition, as the nineteenth century wore on and the European culture began its colonizing efforts in earnest, the nose became inextricably associated with race, an association that lasted until the current era, as seen in what is now called the “Michael Jackson Factor.”

Two World Wars and Innovations in Plastic Surgery
War has played a significant role in the history of plastic surgery. For example, WWI trench warfare meant heads and necks were more vulnerable, and pilots and passengers in the new and dangerous airplanes often suffered serious facial injuries that were unprecedented any time in history. Injuries such as shattered jaws, blown-off noses, and gaping skull wounds accelerated the techniques and experimentation of plastic surgery and prompted Harold Delf Gilles (1882-1860) to establish the first hospital devoted to reconstructive plastic surgery (Backstein and Hinek 2005). In addition, these drastic surgeries enabled surgeons to imagine that even transgender surgery could be performed.

Despite medical advances after WWI, there were still no standard criteria, and something of the Victorian opposition to vanity still prevailed. Because any untrained surgeon could claim to be a plastic surgeon, patients often experience severe complications, such as amputation or at the very least severe scarring. Plastic surgery became associated in many minds with the term “quack.” However, when surgeons who had served in WWI established the American Association of Plastic Surgeons, they effectively signaled the end of unregulated plastic surgery (Haiken 1999). This first association was joined by the American Society of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgeons in 1931 (renamed American Society of Plastic Surgeons in 1991 to show the conflation of historically politically charged terms “reconstructive” and “cosmetic”) and by the American Board of Plastic Surgery in 1937. Finally, plastic surgery was achieving recognition as an independent specialty.

WWII ushered in such plastic surgery techniques as rebuilding entire limbs, extensive skin grafts, microsurgery, antibodies, as well as increased knowledge about tissue health. Several factors contributed to the postwar plastic surgery boon and the breaking down of traditional reluctance to undergo plastic surgery. First, continued activity of professional organizations and publications helped further legitimize the industry. In addition, after there was no war to generate patients, surgeons consequently began a widespread trend toward marketing surgical techniques toward particularly groups--particularly middle-aged, middle-class women who were affluent and largely finished with raising families.

Furthermore, this demographic felt increasing pressure to remain young in a postwar culture often dubbed the “cult of the body beautiful” (Gilman 1999). Indeed, plastic surgeons would often use the vocabulary of postwar domesticity--such as sewing, housecleaning, and cooking--to refer to their procedures. Some critics even accused surgeons of inventing new names, such as “bat wing deformity” (the flabby skin on the upper arms) or “spare tire deformity” (protrusion of the lower abdomen) to create a need for plastic surgery that might not otherwise exist (ibid). By the 1960s, plastic surgery was fully integrated into the medical establishment.

Silicone breast implants also grew in popularity during the 1960s. Showgirls would inject their breasts with liquid silicon, a substance initially used in Japan in WWI to plump out legs withered by polio. Injecting liquid silicone, however, often had dangerous side effects, such as amputation of the breasts due to infection and guaranteed “pendulous” breasts by the time women were 40. Yet advances in silicone breast augmentation (which later was made available in sac), gave hope to women who had undergone a mastectomy (Haiken 1997).

1990s: Continued Popularity of Silicone Breast Implants
Silicone gel-filled breast implants
In 2006, the FDA approved the sale of
silicone breast implants, ending a 14 year ban
based on health concerns
In 2006, the FDA approved the sale of silicone breast implants, ending a 14 year ban based on health concerns. Though silicone breast implants would remain available for breast cancer patients throughout the 1990s, the FDA removed them from the open market in 1992 due to reports of leaking implants. Even with this setback, plastic surgery continued to grow in the 1990s, with more than 5,000 board-certified surgeons active in the U.S. alone. In an important move for both plastic surgeons and their patients, President Bill Clinton signed a bill which required insurance companies to cover the cost of plastic surgery for women who had undergone a mastectomy. Groups are still working to ensure that reconstructive surgery for children’s deformities will also be covered by insurance plans (Web site).


The Future of Plastic Surgery
Throughout its history, plastic surgery has been shaped by cultural priorities and pressures that illuminate the complex interplay between the cosmetic and reconstructive. The fact that many Western societies today have become more comfortable with plastic surgery suggests that they view it as another method of self-improvement--not just for women, but men as well. Big Tent Books even published a new picture book that explains to kids why mom is getting a flatter tummy (Springen 2008).
While critics warn that plastic surgery is creating a world where beauty standards are brutally conformist, plastic surgeons today implement an exciting array of technological advances that continue to push the boundaries of their industry. For example, surgeons are researching new fillers that last longer and new lasers that inject “energy” into the skin. They are also exploring the potential of cloning technology as a method of body rejuvenation and are looking to the secrets of growth within the womb where scarless healing takes place. Without such imagination of plastic surgeons and their patients over the ages, plastic surgery would not be the phenomena it is today.

Taken from: http://www.randomhistory.com/2008/08/31_plastic.html

References:

  1. American Society of Plastic Surgeons. “The History of Plastic Surgery, ASPS and PSEF.” Accessed: July 20, 2008.Backstein R, and A. Hinkek. 2005. “War and Medicine: The Origins of Plastic Surgery.” University Toronto Medical Journal. 3:217-219.
  2. DiBacco, Thomas. Dec 13, 1994. “Plastic Surgeries Earliest Cases Date to Ancient Egypt, India.” Washington Post. Accessed: July 20, 2008.
  3. Haiken, Elizabeth. 1997. Venus Envy: A History of Cosmetic Surgery. Baltimore, MD: The John Hopkins University Press.
  4. Gilman, Sander L. 1999. Making the Body Beautiful: A Cultural History of Aesthetic Surgery. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.
  5. Springen, Karen. April 15, 2008. “Mommy 2.0.” NewsWeek.com. Accessed: July 20, 2008.

Monday 5 May 2014

Mineral Make-Up - just hype and clever marketing?

Every so often, the cosmetics and beauty industry markets a new beauty regime or product. Whilst mineral make-up has been around for a while now, few have heard of it other than the experts and professionals in the field, and those discerning few who actually take care in what they put on their skin for the sake of beauty.  People think mineral means natural, so they are drawn to it. Many people find out about mineral make-up when they want to 'go green' with their cosmetics. With the current interest in safe, natural, and organic products, the mineral make-up approach is very popular. Without doubt, this trend is an increasing one.

The Ancient History of Mineral Make-up
Mineral makeup got its commercial start in the 1970s with some of the really early all-natural make-up products. But its history is as ancient as the human desire to enhance one's looks. Mineral make-up is a return to technologies that have been in use since ancient times. Many ancient cultures used ground-up natural minerals as a means of applying colour to the skin for decoration, camouflage, war paints, etc. Cleopatra's kohl-rimmed eyes are an example. However, the history of mineral make-up no doubt goes back much farther, even to early cave-dwellers.

So who first successfully marketed the concept? One pioneer was Diane Ranger, the cosmetic chemist who founded Bare Escentuals in 1976 and later started Colorescience Pro, another mineral line. She developed her first mineral cosmetics because she felt there was a need and market for natural ingredients and a natural look and feel.

In 1976, cosmetics firms were required to list ingredients on their products for the first time and there was a shock as to the extent of the ingredients in them. The growing desire for natural cosmetics coincided with the increasing number of women who identified themselves as having sensitive skin. Add in marketing and media awareness, and an ageing baby boomer which all mattered.

What's in Mineral Make-up?
Minerals such as iron oxides, talc, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide are micronised, or ground and milled, into tiny particles to create make-up. Different products micronise to different levels. A product micronised to six times leaves minerals larger so they go on the skin with a light to medium coverage. Products micronised 12 times create fine-sized particles that sit closer together and offer more coverage.

A key difference from conventional make-up is what's not in mineral make-up. It generally does not contain the emollient oils and waxes, fragrance, and preservative ingredients found in conventional formulations. Mineral products are usually preservative-free and since they have very low odour, they are often also fragrance-free; preservatives and fragrance are often what cause irritation.

To ensure you're buying a quality mineral make-up product, read the label. If it says "mineral-enriched" or if the formulation is liquid or mousse, these products may contain ingredients such as preservatives (which are vital) or dimethicone which is sometimes added for a smooth texture. Items that aren't powders might also contain moisturisers, antioxidant vitamins, or other ingredients for your skin. It's your choice.

The Benefits of Mineral Make-up
The benefits of mineral make-up have many women flocking to try it - and it isn't just all hype. One popular claim is that it can clear up acne. It's unlikely that mineral make-up will clear up pimples which can be caused by many factors including changes in hormone levels. The anti-irritating ingredients like zinc can be soothing to inflammation, but it's not likely a cure-all. The lack of the filler ingredients found in conventional make-up however, can lead to less pore clogging. That can mean fewer breakouts.
Unfortunately, there are no studies to date on this especially those that are reliable and reputable. However, if you are putting on moisturiser followed by sunscreen and then on top of that foundation topped with powder, you are more likely to have clogs. Therefore it is unsurprising that skin problems arise. Quite often, consumers feedback saying that mineral make-up does not make acne worse but it doesn't make it better either. So despite the calming effects of zinc, mineral make-up is clearly better for acne than any other kind of cosmetics. Therefore if you have acne, a recommendation would be to using skin care products targeted for pimples.

Another claim is that mineral make-up acts as a sunscreen to protect skin from sun damage. The protective claims for zinc oxide (the white stuff your local lifeguard paints on his nose) and titanium dioxide, usually found in powder blends, do have some research behind them. The FDA has approved zinc oxide as a skin protector and titanium dioxide as a sunscreen.

Importantly however, no mineral make-up is going to give you enough SPF to protect you against damaging ultraviolet rays. Some brands claim that the product has confirmed SPF factors. However, it's unclear how much powder is needed  to get full protection. Having the SPF in the mineral make-up is a benefit, but it’s extra. But this would apply to all commercial skincare products anyway. It is certainly advisable not to skip sunscreen and if, for example, you are going to sit outside at lunch and don't have time to entirely reapply your face (moisturiser, sunscreen, and make-up), you can dust on a coat of mineral powder with SPF for extra protection.

Mineral Make-up: Is It Worth It?
When it comes to mineral make-up's supposed skin-soothing properties, it is anti-inflammatory, however the calamine lotion you use to calm a rash is basically zinc oxide coloured with iron oxide, both of which are in mineral make-up. But there's no proof of this claim or indication of how much product you need for that result.

What about the claim that it's so gentle you can sleep in it? Mineral make-up's light-as-air feel is part of what makes it so popular, and tempting to sleep in. However, all good skincare specialises would advise against this  as sleeping in make-up of any kind encourages the formation of clogs and irritation.
Mineral make-up might not last as long on your face or be as durable as conventional make-up because it doesn't contain standard cosmetic ingredients such as binders, waterproof polymers, and other 'stick-to-your-skin' agents. True mineral make-up is limited in its natural range of shades, so it may be difficult to find a perfect skin tone match.

What is pure mineral make-up?
Minerals in make-up make-up are more than just what gives it the colour. It is made from microscopic flat crystals that overlap one another on the skin to crate a filtering layer that allows the skin to breathe. It also protects your skin from environmental pollutants. It even protects your skin from getting sunburn with a broad spectrum of sun protection. Which is why its can be the best type of mineral powder foundation for your skin. But be careful and check for ingredients such as talc. That can not be good for your skin. In addition to the minerals and inorganic pigments, your mineral make-up can also include natural preservatives antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, nutrients, and, of course, sunscreens. Mineral make-up is often recommended by dermatologists for anyone who has sensitive skin and wants to cover up acne, scars, and rosacea. All that protection from a pure item from the earth, but just what is in mineral make-up?

Listed below are some of the more common ingredients found in basic pure mineral make-up:
  1. Titanium dioxide. This is your natural sunscreen as well as an anti-inflammatory agent. It’s great for people with acne, rosacea, inflammatory skin conditions, as well as post-surgical or post-chemical peel skin. It’s ideal for sensitive skin and perfect for all skin types. Note that it may not give you enough sun screen protection, so wear your sun screen before going outside.
  2. Zinc oxide is also a natural sunscreen that provides broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection. Even though it is also a natural sunscreen, it still will not give you all the protection you will need, so again, be prepared to still use your moisturiser with added SPF 25 or higher sunscreen.
  3. Mica. This is the mineral that gives your mineral make-up sparkles. It comes in a variety of hues starting from pale green, brown, black, silver, and gold, to even being colourless. It is what reflects light off your face, creating an illusion of smoother, softer, more radiant skin. It’s known as your natural glitter. It also adds shimmer and lots of colour!
  4. Kaolin clay. This is the mildest china clay used in creating cosmetics. It also offers great oil absorbing properties, without irritating your skin. It also helps your make-up stay where you put it. Kaolin clay is a better choice for your skin overall than talc.
  5. Iron oxides. This is a natural mineral, and it also adds colours to your mineral make-up. There is more than one type of iron oxide.
  6. Serecite. This is a fluffy, translucent mineral that provides a silky texture. It is colourless and often used in setting powder (when creating your personal recipes either as a business like Overall Beauty Minerals or as your own, you add it last to give your make-up staying power). It’s white, but goes on clear. It has been used as a primer and adds water resistance and fade/crease-proof qualities to the make-up.
  7. Silica. This is a mineral from flint and quartz used to absorb oil and improve the feel of the product you are wearing.
  8. Ultramarine pigments. These are derived from limestone containing the blue mineral lazurite. These pigments are your blues, violets, and others, and are very strong pigments, so very little needs to be used when creating colours.
Note: Carmine. This may only be a problem to those who are vegetarians and vegans, due to the fact that it happens to be a crushed extraction from a beetle. Now, if that is something that you want to stay away from, then do that. It’s more of a personal choice than something that’s bad for you. Carmine is found in many brands due to the fact its the most well known natural red out there. And I put it here under what not to find in your mineral makeup do to the fact that you can not call your brand vegan, if you are using carmine. And carmine can be found in a ton of things, from blushes, eye shadows, candles, the toothpaste you use if its tinted red. Next to cosmetic dyes its one of the most common way to create reds, and pinks.

So, now we know what is likely to be in mineral make-up, what about all the ingredients that really shouldn't be in them? These are all well known ingredients found in a ton of brands of make-up. They also can be a issue for those who want to wear mineral make-up but they want something that is as pure as possible. In my opinion there is no need for cheap fillers.

Here is a list of cheap fillers, ingredients that are in a lot of major brands. These are known additives and cheap fillers that saves the creator of the mineral make-up brand money, but may cause you problems.
  1. Talc (magnesium silicate), is a common filler, and can cause respiratory problems. Talc will dry your skin (think, what does baby talc do?). We are talking about the exact ingredient. It will also accentuate those fine lines and wrinkles you are trying to hide.
  2. Boron and bismuth oxychloride. Both are well known skin irritants and can cause itching, rashes, and cystic acne breakouts.
  3. There could be FD&C dyes, which can cause acne when used in a skin care item.
  4. Imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea are not that well known, nor should they be used in a true pure mineral make-up. Being that mineral make-up is minerals, there is no real need for preservatives, which both of these are. They are the most commonly used preservatives, after parabens, and is also the primary cause of contact dermatitis.
  5. Parabens (methyl-, propyl-, butyl-, and ethylparabens) are used to extend the shelf life of beauty products. They have been know to cause allergic reactions and skin rashes for women. Whilst there is a need for preservatives, parabens have had a lots of bad press unfairly so in my opinion. Much of this is about discrediting them in favour of more 'natural' preservatives which ironically mixes the natural substances with combinations of parabens in order to extract them from natural sources. I have already written about parabens in an earlier post entitled: The Truth about Parabens: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/truth-about-parabens.html
Other ingredients to watch out for:
  1. Ferric Ferrocyanide. There are some brands that use this, which is a subject of controversy due to its toxicity. It is what gives more greens and purples their colour. If its not lip safe colour? Then you will probably find this ingredient in it.
  2. Starch powders and flours like rice flour. These are a few more super cheap fillers which can cause respiratory health risks and may even increase acne production and breakouts.
For more information, please go to: http://overallbeauty.com/beauty-blog/2013/09/15/just-what-are-minerals-in-mineral-makeup/ or http://www.webmd.com/beauty/makeup/the-lowdown-on-mineral-makeup.

Saturday 12 April 2014

Facial Oils

There are numerous benefits to replenishing the skin with some of the best plant oils made commercially available in the cosmetic industry. The relatively recent interest in facial oils is just one of the many examples of the powerful benefits of these amazing plant oils in the quest to preserve skin health and promote skin beauty.
Contrary to the recent interest in facial oils here in the West, they have been utilised in other parts of the world far longer and embedded in some of the most ancient global beauty traditions (see my earlier posts on global beauty: http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/global-beauty-traditions.html). Modern technology and science has given us a greater understanding of these plant oils notably their chemical constituents. This has enabled many of the commercial high street brand to replicate them and produce synthetic alternatives which sadly hold a fraction of the benefits but preferable to those who are cash-strapped and want a cheaper facial oil product.
Plant oils are a favourite of aromatherapists too - see the chart below to appreciate their full benefits and some are chosen over others particularly in the treatment and management of a host of skin problems (too many to mention here!). The properties of jojoba oil has been discussed in an earlier post: http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/jojoba-oil.html


It may seem counter-intuitive to apply more oil to already shine-plagued skin, but it turns out that not all oil is evil. Oil-based facial products can actually work wonders on all skin types, even the most sebaceous. Here are four surprising things you may not know about face oils, plus our product picks.


How face oils work: Oil products contain essential fatty acids your skin needs to stay properly hydrated, but your body can't produce them on its own. Oils also act as the skin's lipid barrier, protecting against extreme temperatures, dry climates, and over-cleansing.

Switch from a cream to an oil (especially in winter): Cream moisturisers are usually water based, or a mix of oil and water. They're great for keeping problem-free skin balanced and moisturised. Face oils, however, contain a more powerful, purer, and often more expensive form of nutrients that are the perfect solution for skin in distress. And that lipid barrier we mentioned helps skin heal and repair itself much more quickly. They also lock in hydration better than water-based creams. So when the air gets cold and dry this winter, making the switch to a heavy-hitting face oil can save your skin from irritation, redness, dryness, and breakouts.

Fight oil with oil: The oil your skin produces is much different than the pure plant oils in a facial product. Your skin starts pumping out sebum (the stuff that clogs pores and causes breakouts) when its oil content isn't balanced. So if you strip your skin's natural oils by over-cleansing, your body will actually produce more oil to compensate. But a quality face oil will replenish your skin with the essential fatty acids and moisture it needs. When balance is restored those overactive sebaceous glands take a breather, leaving skin healthier and clearer.

Why quality oils are worth the price tag: When buying a face oil, you really get what you pay for. Cheaper oil products often contain less refined, more processed ingredients with fillers and additives, whereas more expensive oils tend to be purer and more effective. Look for pure organic oils of rosehip, argan, jojoba, apricot kernel, avocado, macadamia nut, and calendula to get the most benefits. And remember, although a good face oil may seem pricey, it's highly concentrated, so a few drops go a long way. 

Facial oils made my Centella have been formulated with sound knowledge of these properties in mind. Designed to be used for intensive moisture treatment so can be applied sparingly after cleansing in the morning or more popularly at night either on its own or before applying Centella’s Replenishing Night Cream. This product has been formulated with carefully chosen plant oils containing a wealth of skin-nourishing benefits including camellia, argan, baobab and marula oils, all with excellent skin restorative and moisture-retentive properties. Enriched with the aromatic fragrances of rose, geranium and lavender.It is a rich, botanical facial oil to nourish, replenish and protect. Active ingredients include: peach kernel oil, evening primrose oil, cotton seed oil, rosehip oil marula oil (Sclerocarya birrea), baobab oil (Andansonia digitata), argan oil (Argania spinosa), camellia oil (Camellia sinensis), geranium essential oil (Pelargonium roseum) and lavender essential oil (Lavandula angustofolia). There are numerous other natural and organic facial oils that are comparable but it is best to see advice from a skincare specialist or a skin health specialist before purchasing. Ultimately, choice may be dictated by price but there are superior alternatives which can be reasonable priced and price does not always guarantee quality! Given the many cosmetic and health benefits of plant oils, it is undoubtedly a valuable investment in any skincare regime.

For more information on how best to apply facial oils and how to incorporate them into your daily skincare regime go to: http://oneloveorganics.com/blog/2013/09/how-to-best-apply-facial-oils-and-serums/