Global Beauty Traditions

The concept of beauty varies across the world and is dictated by the places we live in, cultures we are a part of and traditions we are following. However, in an increasingly globalised world, we are now sharing knowledge and practices more than ever. Beauty secrets are no exception and there are some fascinating insights from around the world, some based on age-old traditions that have withstood the test of time as well as modernisation which combines ancient wisdom with science and technology.

Europe
Various beauty traditions have shaped modern Europe's beauty routines. Some still remain from 

The French actress
Marion Cotillard

biblical times and religion as well as beauty rituals of women which continue to feature in some European countries. Products such as olive oil, myrrh oil, honey and cassis oil were popular treatments in biblical times as were milk baths. Scents of that time included saffron, myrrh, calamus, nard, cinnamon, henna or frankincense. You can find out more about frankincense and myrrh here: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/rapidly-dwindling-stocks.html. Some of these oils and scents continue to this day in western herbal medicine, modern skincare and in perfumery. For instance, myrrh oil is  extremely moisturising, toning, healing and rejuvenating. As far as make-up was concerned, much relied on natural plant pigments, stains and dyes such as those found in beetroot and pomegranate juice. Henna was another useful plant stain and we know it more popularly today as a natural hair colourant and ink for henna tattoos.

Nowadays, there is a pervading theme in skincare regimes in modern Europe although there are notable variations between the European countries. Greek yoghurt is a renowned topical skin moisturiser in Greece. It's a natural source of lactose, proteins, vitamins and minerals so one can see the appeal. It also has a long tradition of use as a treatment for sunburn and various skin problems (of an inflammatory nature). Moreover, the traditional Mediterranean diet of the Greeks also means that they eat plenty of fresh fish (high in essential fatty acids), fresh fruit, vegetables and olive oil - packed with glorious antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and good fats, all of which are beneficial for a glowing skin. It's a similar story for other Mediterranean countries such as Spain and Italy. For Scandinavian women, it's all about water. Not only do they drink about 2 litres a day to flush out toxins but they also splash their face with mineral water throughout the day to revitalise it and to reduce puffiness. Commercial water sprays can be bought in any high street chemist. Swedish women attribute their glowing healthy skin to fresh berries (packed with anti-ageing antioxidants) as well as grilled fish. Of course, it is the home of the sauna and the principle it works on is that the dry, clean heat eliminates toxins from your body by encouraging sweating. In France, there is no defining beauty tradition based on history. However, they are scrupulous about their beauty regime and will invest in good brands and treat themselves to regular facials and pamper massages. They are also fond of the seaweed body treatment which uses heated seaweed to be smothered all over the body. It is thought to relieve stress, soothe tired and sore muscles and pampers the skin like nothing else. However, the underlying principle is one of attitude. The principle of 'less is more' holds true for French women and whilst they will invest in quality products, they don't subscribe to expensive anti-ageing treatments and believe that a woman is most beautiful when she exudes self-confidence.

In Ireland, there has been a long tradition of using seaweed particularly to treat skin conditions. Bath houses of the Edwardian era involved seaweed-infused baths to treat patients with a host of skin complaints. On contact with heat, seaweed releases alginic acid, a silky (mucilaginous) compound of essential oils that soothes, nourishes and heals damaged skin. Nowadays, seaweed is being investigated for its healing properties in psoriasis. All over Europe there are relics of old herbal beauty remedies from nettle hair rinses in the Czech Republic to cranberry juice and lemon juice hair rinses in Spain. In England, cold creams were traditionally and originally used as cleansers because air pollution was pretty bad early last century. Vanishing creams on the other hand were regarded as the equivalent to modern-day foundations as they were easily absorbed and gave a pearly sheen on which to apply face powder or make-up.

Asia

Asia covers a wide area from Russia and the far east to the Indian subcontinent. In Russia, the traditional venik or platza (Yiddish for back and shoulders) involves the use of steam, ice water, intense massage and beatings with fragrant bundles of leafy oak or birch twigs (called veniks). Available at most Russian bath houses, the procedure involves lying in a steam room where the back and shoulders are alternately massaged then  beaten with the veniks before being plunged into ice cold water. The shock to the system is thought to confer a host of benefits: improved circulation, increased metabolism, detoxification, exfoliation of dead skin cells and natural astringent (tones the skin).

In China, there is a culture of using plants for beautifying such as rosemary and green tea in hair rinses and a variety of natural treatments easily available at their many spas. These include the use of pure sea salts to detoxify, the use of milk, yoghurt, papaya and buttermilk as skin softeners and various aromatherapy oils such as ylang ylang, lavender, sandalwood and rosemary not only for their benefits to skin but also to fragrance and beautify. The process of gua sha or 'spooning' is just as revered; literally translated as 'to scrape away fever' has its roots in folk medicine than in beauty. It is performed by applying pressure to lubricated skin with strokes of a smooth, round spoon-like instrument (looks a bit like a Chinese soup spoon). It is thought to eliminate blood stagnation, and help normalise circulation and metabolism, both aspects which influence good skin health. More often, it is used as a treatment for ailments such as chronic pain, stiffness, headache, respiratory function and digestive problems.

The Japanese have had a long and health-based tradition with the sea from eating fish to using sea water, sea salt and seaweed in many of their beauty products. Marine collagen is a sea protein ingredient found in many of their anti-ageing creams. Its origin can either be animal based (extracted from the scales of fish) or extracted from seaweed (plant-based). Seaweed is also a source of other marine-strengthening minerals such as iodine, iron, zinc, selenium and copper. Nori is an edible seaweed species of the red algae and is a rich source of absorbable iodine. The Japanese often use nori-based hair care products as it is said to strengthen and nourish the hair. They boil it up and make an iodine-rich nourishing paste for the hair. Also high on the natural beauty tips list is the white camellia nut oil, widely used by the Japanese women for hydrating and softening the skin. It is especially beneficial for treating pregnancy-related stretch marks and inducing hair growth. It is also a popular ingredient in facial oils. One of the most beloved beauty ingredients of the Japanese is rice which also forms part of their staple diet. Using  rice starch that has been milled into a fine dust, the women use this as face powder because it is great at absorbing oil. Other uses of rice include using the rice bran (the brown outer layer of the rice called the hull) as an exfoliator (it is rich in antioxidants and hydrating minerals). Sake, the traditional wine of Japan made from rice has been long used by Geishas who used to splash it on their faces to eliminate age spots and lighten pigmentation. Nowadays, Japanese women are reported to add a few glassfuls of sake to a warm bath for glowing skin and a detoxifying effect.

The traditional Indian bridal make up

India has an extremely long history of beauty regimes imbued with culture, religion and art.  Given the ancient lineage, their entire philosophy is predicated to avoiding all forms of chemical ingredients and opting for natural beauty treatments. In this respect, there are a host of natural ingredients (not all of them from the kitchen) at their disposal. A range of herbs, spices, food items and dairy products are used in skincare such as turmeric, saffron, milk, gram flour, lemon, glycerine, salt  and rose water. Using saffron with milk to counter pigmentation is a widely recommended beauty tip while honey is used as a moisturiser.

Decorative henna tattoos

However, the trademark hair of women from the Indian subcontinent can be attributed to a combination of unique ingredients such as amla, shikakai and henna, all from plant sources. Amla is used to strengthen and nourish hair, shikakai invariably used as a detangler in hair washes and henna as a hair colourant and conditioner. By far the most popular and widespread product for hair is coconut oil. It has a host of benefits from remedying dry, limp hair, to promoting hair growth and combatting dandruff. The image of a traditional Indian bride is something to behold, with the 16 adornments (an integral part of the bridal beautifying ritual) where the bride is given an oil massage (containing turmeric, gram flour and mustard oil or butter) before a bath containing milk and rose water. Traditional Indian bridal make up involves kohl eyeliner as a must with jewellery for the hair and face as well as the traditional henna or mehndi being decorated as tattoos with elaborate patterns on the hands and/arms and feet (usually applied the night before at the mehndi gathering of close relatives and future in-laws).


Africa
Western skincare and beauty is becoming increasingly influenced by products from African countries but much of the traditions is confined to the local areas, particularly remote areas which is largely dictated by availability of plant products and climate. There are also significant variations depending on region; after all, Africa is a vast continent. From Egypt to South Africa and from Morocco to Ghana, the wealth of raw beauty, cosmetic and skincare ingredients is to be marvelled and cherished. Egypt is renowned for the legendary queen Cleopatra who was favoured to take milk baths laced with honey. She would have probably used camel's milk or goat's milk, both high in fats which would help moisturise and soften the skin. Cleansing action was probably carried out by ingredients such as lime, oil, natron, dead sea salts and water. For perfumery, there couldn't have been more choice - the musks, woods and resins all originate from here and even today, Egypt still boasts some of the most extensive range of perfume oils which continues to service perfume house all over the world. Oils such as frankincense, myrrh and sandalwood are still used today in skincare formulations due to their reputed properties in anti-ageing. You can read more about perfume here: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/art-of-aroma.html As far as make up goes, black kohl was popular as an eyeliner and green malachite as eye paint (which is now easily achieved with green eye shadow powder).

Argan oil has been prized as a great ant-ageing ingredient and given its popularity in the West, the plant from which it is harvested by the local tribes who rely on the tree for their economic survival, it is now classed as endangered and protected by UNESCO. The oil is packed with vitamin E, linoleic acid and beneficial mono- and poly-unsaturated fats, which combine to nourish the skin (and hair). They tackle fine lines, wrinkles, stretch marks and acne scars. It is also a  highly nutritious food ingredient (it's great drizzled over a salad). You can read more about argan oil here: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/exploring-hype.html Another great beauty export from Morocco is rhassoul clay. It is from the Atlas mountain range and is brown in colour but is has been used for more than 1500 years to maintain supple, blemish-free skin for local women. Like all clays, it draws out impurities and modern skincare uses this ingredient in face masks for the same purpose. Its benefits are attributed to high levels of silica, calcium and potassium which nourishes and replenishes the skin even after it has been rinsed off. One of the best products to come out of West Africa is shea butter. Found in ancient tombs, lauded in historical documents and fought over in colonial wars, shea butter has been vital to local economies and countries of the West African region particularly Senegal, Ghana, Mali and Tongo. It truly is like a butter and is extracted from the nut of the shea tree. The butter is popular because it melts upon contact with skin and has a high absorption with minimal oily residue. It's is an essential ingredient in natural skincare products and can be blended in soaps, cleansers and healing salves or balms. It is useful in dry skin conditions such as eczema and can also be used to nourish or moisturise dry hair. In South Africa, the traditional medicine is rooibos tea (low in tannin, caffeine-free red tea). It is said to benefit inflammatory skin disorders such eczema, psoriasis and skin rashes when used as a skin tonic, as well as an ingredient in soaps and lotions.

Caribbean & West Indies
Much of the Caribbean and West Indies beauty tradition is based upon rituals passed on from previous generations and despite the largely Western and modern American influences, two of their staple ingredients in natural skincare is increasing popular all over the world: cocoa (cacao or cocoa bean) and coconut oil. We know cocoa bean for its chocolate but equally, the cocoa butter is processed form it and forma base ingredient for many skincare products. It has a host of benefits including:

• it works as an anti-ageing food and is loaded with essential minerals to smooth out uneven skin tone and to soften the skin
• it melts easily and has high absorption (rather like shea butter and is often combined together in many natural skincare products)
• it has more antioxidants than red wine or green tea
• it works against cellulite and fights free radicals to limit ageing and further fat deposition

The benefits of coconut oil has already been discussed but many women (and men) also consume extra virgin, unfractionated coconut oil for its numerous health benefits. Many from the West Indian islands as well as the Caribbean to some extent have a high regard for nutrition and have a healthy reliance on it to look beautiful. They prefer wholefoods with naturally, home-grown foods, fruits and vegetables which provides plenty of variety. They also utilise local availability and given that choice is so extensive, who can blame them?! Herbs, spices, fresh fruit, vegetables, herbal remedies (such as aloe vera) and a fantastic community spirit. No wonder they look so good!

Australia & New Zealand

Moke - the traditional Maori art of tattoo

Much of the traditional beauty rituals originate from the indigenous populations: Aborigines and Maori, and sadly only a fraction of the tradition has remained due to colonisation.  Emu oil is an old favourite of the aborigines - made from emu fat, it is rich in antioxidants and possesses powerful cell-regenerating properties to thicken skin without clogging pores. The health benefits of emu oil has also been studied, particularly for its anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties. The aborigines also relied on yarrow root oil to treat stretch marks and scarring. The Maori people have a long history of sourcing natural ingredients to heal, nurture and to beautify. From tree ferns (mamaku) to fish oils, they utilise the bounties of Mother Nature. By far the most popular ingredient to come out of New Zealand (and Australia) is manuka honey. It is a food, a health supplement , medicinal remedy and also a skincare ingredient. The Maori concept of visual beauty also involves facial and body tattoos and it is more than skin deep; it is about beauty and belonging.

Polynesia
The wealth of plant and raw minerals in the Polynesian islands is astonishing. The region has had

numerous influences far and wide with regards to beauty and some of the ingredients are only being prized in the West relatively recently. Tahiti, Samoa, Fiji, Bali, Vanuatu and other regions in the Pacific all have similar beauty regimes and cultural norms when it comes to defining beauty. Ingredients such as tamanu oil and monoi de Tahiti are gaining popularity but the locals have relied on these plant substances for many years. Tamanu comes from the tamanu nut and it is prized for its ability as a wound healer and to form new skin cells. In this respect, it can be blended with centella oil for all wounds, cuts and skin problems where healing is required. Another popular substance is oil that has been produced  by soaking a local fragrant flower called tiare in coconut oil. The resultant infused oil is called monoi (de Tahiti because it is from this country). Monoi is prized for its lush, sweet aromatic fragrance and its property for intense hydration (so it's a great moisturiser). It is thought to make the skin glow but also acts as an insect repellent (due to its sweet fragrance - it repels mosquitos) and addresses all scarring due to its salicylic acid content. It is also popular as a massage oil. The fragrances and flower essences also dictate surrounding regions and countries, for instance jasmine is favoured for its delicate floral scent and is a stalwart of many perfumes, scented oils, candles and a variety of skincare products.

Native Americas
There are many ingredients in modern beauty products that were used by Native Americans. Much of this tradition also has its roots in herbal folklore of that region but has been sadly lost due to colonisation and war. What remains today however are relics and a desire to use what is easily available in nature. The Mexicans have been using the cacoa tree as far back as the Aztecs and Mayans and it still holds potent uses today, even in skincare. You can read more about raw chocolate and its benefits here: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/exploring-hype.html The ancient elders discovered the skin care and beauty benefits of plants like aloe vera and jojoba, hundreds of years ago.  Native Americans used aloe vera to soothe and heal the skin, as well as to hydrate and protect it from extreme climates in areas like dry deserts. It was also used to treat sunburn and for soap. Coconut water is another health essential as it prevents dehydration and is packed with nutrients. The Brazilians even splash their faces with it to keep cool. They are also fond of coconut for all the reasons highlighted above and whenever their feet are dry and peeling, they take a good, long walk on the beach as a way of exfoliating dead skin cells and moisturising with coconut oil, cocoa butter or a body butter to keep it smooth and supple. They also use carrot juice as a tan enhancer.

The Middle East
This covers a substantial region and was united by religion, culture and art. Traditional healers were also master perfumers and the Arabs enjoy a long history and tradition with plants, herbs, spices, oils, resins, musks and natural minerals such as sand, rhassoul clay, salt and earth. Today, the region is renowned for its perfume oils and essential oils but it also boasts some of the most widespread herbal medicines and foods. Israel has been using dead sea salt products for years and swear by its mineral-rich substance to detoxify the body of impurities and help cure many skin conditions. It is often combined with other marine products such as seaweed and is used in massage oils and a range of skincare products for its rejuvenating benefits. They are also big on spas (called hammams) where the emphasis is on cleanliness, relaxation and detoxification.

For more information about the history of skincare and cosmetics visit: http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/index.php or http://www.carolthompsonbeautysecrets.com/history-of-skin-care.html

Cardinal Rules for Wrinkle-Free Skin

We all know that ageing is an inevitable process and many factors influence this, not least of which is our genetics and lifestyle choices (to name but a few!). However, there is much we can do ourselves to combat wrinkles and prevent premature ageing. We all know the main culprits of course such as smoking, sun damage, excessive alcohol consumption and a poor diet. But there are a number of other things we can do to stay healthy and to promote a vibrant, youthful skin that can belie our true age:

Combat Stress

We all know that stress is not a good thing. It can cause anxiety which in turn releases abnormal levels of cortisol and adds strain to your adrenals. This can cause fluctuations in hormones which can lead to a number of physiological and immunological imbalances and disrupt the normal equilibrium of your body. This can in the long-term wreak havoc on the skin which reveals signs of stress and adds years to your age, not to mention the other effects such as debility and illness. Assessing the cause of stress is important as is ways in which to manage it. The regenerative lifecycle of skin cells becomes longer as we get older and cells are not renewed as quickly as when we are younger. Our mental well-being also for maintaining skin integrity and suppleness. Stress also dehydrates the skin making it appear dry and flaky, both of which ages the skin appearance. Therefore combating stress is vital for skin health. Try the following stress-busting techniques:

• exercise - great for releasing tension and improving blood flow to the skin surface. This will accelerate skin renewal. It will also help release the body's own feel good factor (endogenous endorphins) leading to lowering of the heart rate and blood pressure, both of which are raised during stress. It should also promote better sleep
• meditation - it is a tried and tested method for an increasing number of people who lead hectic lives. It trains the mind to focus and in so doing enabling the body to relax. there are many different forms of meditation so try different ones until you find something that suits
• tai-chi - this ancient art of exercise also works the mind. many people swear by this for their stress management
• herbal remedies - great anxiolytics include lemon balm, passion flower, chamomile, skullcap and wood betony. They are also regarded by herbalists as nerve tonics and as the name implies will be great at improving the health of the nervous system which lies at the heart of all stress and tension. Other herbs can be prescribed for associated symptoms of stress such as insomnia, tension headaches and poor appetite. It's strongly advisable to consult a medical herbalist before self-medicating

Other practical measures such as making time for hobbies, relaxation techniques include breathing techniques, making time for friends and family as well as taking a few days off for a change of scenery will also help.

Exfoliate 
Skin cells are renewed regularly and have a lifecycle of 20-30days. However, as we age, this process takes longer and can take as long as 40-50 days. Therefore, older skins can tend to lack shine and lustre because dead skin cells are hanging around the surface without being replaced. We can reduce the effects of this by regular exfoliation - that is, sloughing off dead skin cells manually by using a range of exfoliating products such as face washes, creams, foams and body scrubs. Exfoliating will also encourage the regeneration of new skin cells which will improve the skin's appearance, feel and texture. It is not just the face that requires attention, the body also needs regular exfoliation. This will improve circulation as well (if done correctly without too much pressure) and result in a healthy shine to the skin after moisturising. However, be careful of the products you use as you will need to find one that is compatible with your skin type, especially for the face. Harsh abrasives are to be avoided like the plague as this will dry the skin out and delicate skin on your face needs something gentle. Try natural exfoliating substances such as vitamin A crystals, oatmeal, rice bran or jojoba beads. Commercial products that are exfoliating face washes can be good too but opt for more natural products and always moisturise afterwards. 

Get Enough Sleep  
Given the 24-7 culture of modern living, it is no surprise that we are not getting enough sleep. Good skin health is dictated by getting enough sleep as this is the time when the body recovers and regenerates itself. This includes vital functions, our nervous system, skin renewal and replenishing energy stores. It's not enough just to get the right number of hours, as research has shown that the quality of sleep is just as important, if not more so. Therefore, enabling the body to be able to sleep well is a challenge for many people these days given our hectic lifestyles. Many find regular rituals at night time useful such as a drinking something warm like hot milk or relaxing herbal teas such as chamomile, valerian, hops or Californian poppy (all great sedatives). It's not called 'beauty sleep' for nothing - a good night's rest is therefore essential for skin vitality and glow. A lack of sleep ages the skin prematurely and adds unnecessary wrinkles. This is because inadequate sleep  and disturbances disrupt normal hormone balance leading to adverse effects on the skin. The human growth hormone in particular is important during sleep as its secretion is increased when we get enough hours. This hormone has opposing effects to cortisol (the stress hormone) and counteracts all cortisol's ageing effects. As a consequence, it restores youthful skin, builds stronger bones and builds up muscle mass (amongst many other attributes) - all associated with youthful vibrancy and vitality. 

Daily Dose of Water 
Keeping  hydrated is a challenge for most people. we are supposed to drink at least a litre of water a day and more if you are active. Apparently, so many of us are running around dehydrated - and it's not doing our skin health any good! The constitution of the skin is based on water and fat. Without water, much of the health of the skin is compromised. This is also true of fat as insufficient oiliness increases the risk of skin becoming dry, accelerating wrinkles and making skin prone to cracks which can introduce all sorts of toxins into the body. therefore keeping skin hydrated by drinking plenty of water is an essential and easy way to save the skin. The water must be pure and does not mean teas, coffees, fruit juices or other liquids. It does not mean foods either. Pure water means that the body has very little to do in terms of processing it and because it is easily absorbed by cells, the effects are quick and almost immediate. Some people prefer filtered water although tap water in the UK is good enough. Mineral water is not always what it is cracked up to be and don't spend a fortune in supplies as water is water and the body will know what to do with it, and does not discriminate despite the source! A morning detox of hot water with a little fresh lemon will do wonders for the skin, not only in hydration (we lose water during the night despite sleeping) and the lemon will kick start the liver into action and promote detoxification. All good stuff!

Fight Free Radicals 
Modern living, poor diets, environmental pollutants and physiological factors all produce destructive particles known as free radicals. Free radicals are produced as a result of oxidative stress and are associated with disease and illness at one end of the spectrum and a feeling of being 'run-down', functioning at a sub-optimum level and not looking your best, including poor skin health (superficial lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, rashes and inflammation), ageing and wrinkles at the other. Therefore combating free radicals can be one strategy in tackling the risks associated with ageing and wrinkle production. Normally the body has its own innate mechanisms for fighting free radicals (which are often produced as a by-product of normal biochemical reactions and our metabolism). The liver takes its lion's share of responsibility in fighting free radicals but we can help by increasing our antioxidant intake as part of our diet. Antioxidants can be found in foods that are high in vitamins A, C and E as well as green tea, grapeseed extract and supplements of co-enzyme Q10 and acetyl-L-carnitine. Seek advice from a nutritionist to optimise your intake.

Our skins can benefits from external application of products that are rich in antioxidants because they can be absorbed at a local level and penetrate the superficial layers of the skin. Go for moisturisers that contain ingredients high in antioxidants such as oils, fruit extracts, herbal extracts and added vitamins, in particular vitamins A, C and E.

Avoid Toxic Overload: 

Much of our environment is subjected to pollution and with the best will I the world, it is extremely difficult to avoid toxins. It is everywhere from our food, water supply and environment to prescription medicines, alcohol and tobacco smoke. Our digestion, liver and kidneys normally take care of this toxic burden and never let it get to the stage where we feel the impact of toxic overload. However, this relies largely on the optimum health and well-being of these organs therefore we need to look after them by regularly clearing the system of unwanted debris and circulating toxins. It doesn't have to be a radical fast or a savage detox routine requiring you spends lots of money on a detox break. A two-day diet of water and fruit to begin with or drinking smoothies, raw fruits, raw vegetables and cutting out all tea, coffee and carbonated drinks every 6 months will all help.

Cultivate Happiness
Last but not least, the herculean efforts you make won't mean a thing if you are not happy emotionally, mentally or spiritually. Peace of mind is a hard thing to acquire but easily lost due to attitude. Being truly happy is defined by ourselves and bringing serenity into your life will do wonders on your skin, not to mention your health & well-being. It will cosmetically-speaking, take years off your appearance. For more information and advice try reading some of the books by Dr. Deepak Chopra or Louise Hay.

Must-have fats for skin health

There has been much adverse publicity on fats but they are vital to health and well-being. The confusion has arisen due to the type of fats that are consumed and the imbalance in what we eat far too much of. Modern diets contain a disproportionate amount of saturated fats, trans fatty acids (or trans fats for short) and hydrogenated fats. The body requires a certain amount of saturated fats although we are currently eating too much of these. Saturated fats in their natural form are found mainly in animal fat although fried foods also contain a high quantity of these depending on how they are prepared. Trans fatty acids and hydrogenated fats are not found naturally and the body is not designed to process these. As a consequence, they accumulate in the body and can cause ill health through toxic build up. These unhealthy fats are found in most processed foods (eg. biscuits, cakes, crisps, chocolates etc..) and fast foods (eg. take away foods).

In addition to saturated fats (in moderation), other healthy fats are the essential fatty acids (omega 3, 6, and 9) are found in fatty fish and some vegetarian sources such as flaxseeds. So let’s look at these in more detail…

Fatty acids intake:

There has been a lot of media coverage on the subject of the essential fatty acids and how good they are for you. We are apparently not getting enough of these nutrients from our diet due to the appalling standards of the ‘western diet’ having too much of the unhealthy saturated fats, hydrogenated fats and refined sugars. To understand the true importance of essential fatty acids, it is perhaps best to start at a description and their function in the body.

The essential fatty acids (EFAs) are a vital part of our diet because they cannot be made by the body, so they need to be obtained from the diet. In this sense, they are referred to as ‘essential’. They are a group of fats (lipids) and make up some of the most important parts of our body especially the brain, hence the term ‘brain food’. There are 2 types of essential fatty acids that are important – omega 3 and omega 6. There is also omega 9 but this is not technically essential as the body is capable of making it provided there are enough of the other EFAs in the first place. The EFAs are needed by the body in certain proportions; more is needed of the omega 3 than the 6. Omega 3 is found in flaxseed oil (flaxseed oil has the highest omega 3 content of any food), flaxseeds, flaxseed meal, hempseed oil, hempseeds, walnuts, pumpkin seeds, Brazil nuts, sesame seeds, avocados, some dark leafy green vegetables (kale, spinach, purslane, mustard greens, collards, etc.), canola oil (cold-pressed and unrefined), soybean oil, wheat germ oil, salmon, mackerel, sardines, anchovies, albacore tuna, and others.

Omega 6 is also found in flaxseed oil, flaxseeds, flaxseed meal, hempseed oil and hempseeds. Other sources include grapeseed oil, pumpkin seeds, pine nuts, pistachio nuts, sunflower seeds (raw), olive oil, olives, borage oil, evening primrose oil, black currant seed oil, chestnut oil, chicken, amongst many others. It is important to avoid refined and hydrogenated versions of these foods. Other sources must be checked for quality as they may be nutrient-deficient as sold in stores. These include corn, safflower, sunflower, soybean, and cottonseed oils which are also sources of omega 6, but are refined and may be nutrient-deficient..

Omega 9 is found in olive oil (extra virgin or virgin), olives, avocados, almonds, peanuts, sesame oil, pecans, pistachio nuts, cashews, hazelnuts, macadamia nuts, etc. One to two tablespoons of extra virgin or virgin olive oil per day should provide sufficient omega 9 for adults. However, the "time-released" effects of obtaining these nutrients from nuts and other whole foods is thought to be more beneficial than consuming the entire daily amount via a single oil dose. I have discussed at length the benefits of argan oil in a previous post (Dec 2011); I is a natural oil from Morocco that is gaining in popularity in the West – please remember to only purchase products that are ethically sourced.

For a clear mind, a healthy body and efficient use of energy, the essential fatty acids are a vital part of the diet. They also have other health benefits such as maintaining the suppleness of the joints, offering some protection against heart disease and general all round health. They also ensure a healthy circulation and immune system amongst other important functions that are too many to mention here. There is conflicting information however, as to their usefulness in pregnancy. Concern is really over the mercury levels in fatty fish, which is a good dietary source of omega 3 fatty acid. However, given that EFAs are vital to the growing baby (brain & spinal cord development) it should not be avoided. If concerned, an alternative choice could be to try vegetarian sources (such as flaxseed or hemp seed oil) or take supplements made from algae sources as these pose no dangers for pregnant women. Taking these supplements in moderation is always the sensible approach and if in doubt, it is best to seek advice from a herbalist or a nutritionist.

Given that in the West, over 40% of our calories come from processed and hard fats, it is worth taking a closer look at our diets and answering some important questions:

Q. Are all natural fats good?

A. In a nutshell, yes! Natural food sources are always good for humans – the problem has always been one of excess. Our bodies haven’t changed much over the evolutionary period but our diets have and the manner in which we process food for human consumption has made foods almost unrecognisable from its original form. Fats (even saturated fats) are essential for human health. They are important in a diverse range of bodily functions such as nerve conduction, brain development (especially in growing children), important for the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins, as a storage facility (eg. oestrogen is stored in our fat reserves), for insulation and for protection. Not to mention the fact that fats provide important building blocks for other structural, nutritional and functional components of the body.

Q. How are natural fats made unhealthy?

A. Natural fats in foods are made unhealthy by processing. Simply put, with the exception of butter and lard which are from animal sources, all natural fats from plants are liquid at room temperature and have a limited shelf life before they goes rancid. Therefore, to increase the shelf-life of such oils and to make them solid which are convenient, food manufacturers alter their chemical configuration in a process known as hydrogenation. The fats are then referred to as hydrogenated fats (look out for them on any food label and it’s surprising how many processed foods contain them). Whilst this process extends the shelf-life of our foods, unfortunately, it also alters the EFAs in any natural fats by converting them to trans-fatty acids (trans fats).

This is disastrous for the body in that it cannot process these fats and therefore they linger in the body leading to increased risk of all sorts of diseases such as cardiovascular disease. Look out for hydrogenated fats in margarine, breads, cakes, biscuits, instant soups, chocolate bars, deserts, crisps, convenience foods and peanut butter.

Another way of making natural fats unhealthy is by frying. EFAs are heat-sensitive and therefore frying will destroy the most susceptible components of them. Frying converts healthy, natural oils into unhealthy, toxic ones, increasing the risk of heart disease and cancer. If foods need to be fried, always supplement the diet with additional sources of EFAs in their natural form. Equally, food manufacturers also refine many of the natural oils and remove their distinctive odours which are characteristic of pure, natural oils. They also remove their colours. The extent of this refining renders all natural oils devoid of any nutritional benefit. Go for cold-pressed, extra virgin oils which may be more expensive but it is infinitely healthier than the cheaper, refined alternative.

Q. How do you tell if there are ‘hidden fats’ in foods?

A. All processed foods are a minefield of ingredients. We are utterly reliant on legislation (not all of which is adhered to) and the integrity of food manufactures to provide adequate and honest food labelling. They should by law list all ingredients so fats should be easily spotted. It’s amazing how fats somehow find their way into the least expected food items (where one wouldn’t think to find it). Hidden fats are so-called because they don’t appear to be fried or dripping in fat. But many foods contain them eg. chocolate, cakes, crisps, pastries and all processed foods. The only certain way to limit or avoid unnatural fat intake is to source your food carefully (this may require some research into which outlets and some homework into foods) and to cook your own food from natural ingredients.
 

Q. Is it healthier to buy low-fat foods instead?

A. Not necessarily as many of the so-called low calories foods are loaded with sugar (simply because removing fat from food can make it rather unpalatable and tasteless therefore manufacturers compensate by adding extra sugar, often refined). Excess sugar presents all sorts of other problems because it is changed into harmful forms of fat. It also limits absorption of EFAs, inhibits Vitamin C uptake, disrupts insulin function making regulation of blood sugar erratic and unstable, it increases the risk of blood clots (which has potential consequences such as raising cardiovascular risk, cancer risk and diabetes). Moreover, immunity is compromised with disruptions to mineral absorption and excess adrenaline secretion – this can have devastating metabolic consequences. Watch out also for extra salt in low-fat foods, again by a means of adding taste to compensate for the lack of it when fat is removed.

If you want to cut down on fat, simply eliminate all processed foods and reduce portion size as well as animal fat intake such as butter, lard and suet. Ensure that daily quotas of EFAs are met from vegetable/plant and fish sources. Always cook from fresh ingredients then you know for sure exactly what is in your foods.

Conclusion - The Fats of Life

Remember, natural, unrefined oils also contain a host of other nutrients such as phytosterols, antioxidants, lecithin and many other useful ingredients. In addition to a myriad of nutritional benefits, these minor ingredients also contribute to the flavour, smell, colour, consistency and character of the oil. Always store oils such as flaxseed, argan and hemp seed oil in the fridge as sunlight and exposure to air once opened will oxidise the EFAs in them making them go rancid and devoid of nutrients. They will also need to be consumed fairly quickly so make sure they don’t sit around in the fridge for months on end!

For specific medical conditions or for general advice on EFA intake, seek advice from a medical herbalist or a nutritionist: the College of Practitioners of Phytotherapy  http://www.phytotherapists.org/ or the National Institute of Medical Herbalists (NIMH) http://www.nimh.org.uk/

The Latest Beauty Fad - Bee Venom

Just when I think I have heard it all before, along comes another craze that propels me into action, galvanising my research into it in order to verify or substantiate some of the more outrageous claims that are being made. I refer here to bee venom of course, the latest trend in anti-ageing beauty products and hailed as nature's answer to botox, little realising that botox is also a natural poison. Bee venom is now the latest magic ingredient to be added to skin creams, lip-plumping potions and sticky face masks all in the desperate desire to halt or reverse the signs of ageing. Endorsed by celebrities (young and old) further enhances its appeal to the masses who religiously follow these trends and who do not readily question the veracity or reliability of the marketing claims and the hype that usually surrounds anything associated with anti-ageing.
So let's examine what the fuss is all about and try and verify some of the claims that have been made to see if there is any proper evidence behind such claims that could justify the exorbitant cost of these elixirs of youth.....

Our relationship with bees

The humble honey bee with which humans
have enjoyed a long history and a long
and healthy relationship

There are many different varieties of bees, one of which is the honey bee with which humans have traditionally had a long and healthy relationship. Of course, I refer to our cultivation of honey (eg. acacia, manuka, clover, runny etc...), royal jelly and the various other products from it such as bee pollen and propolis, both valuable in medicine and health. The latest product to be 'cultivated' from the honey bee is its venom because of its purported reputation as an anti-ageing ingredient. We know that bees sting, the mechanism of which is located in its abdomen (as opposed to its proboscis) which is often a common misconception. Live stings (ie. a sting as a normal response to its defence against attack from another organism such as a human usually kills the bees because the entire sting apparatus is ejected along with the sting and embedded into the host). However, collection of the bee venom does not rely on this method (apart from the obvious risk!), and so smaller quantities of venom are ejected with each sting and the bee remains alive for a bit longer than its usual 'one sting and die' approach!
 
The uses and benefits of bee products

• acacia honey - bees traditionally kept in hives close to acacia trees (Acacia spp) tend to collect nectar locally and the honey is  made from the acacia tree blossom nectar rather than from a mixture of plants/flowers. For this reason the product can be labelled specifically as acacia honey.
• manuka honey - made in the same way as acacia except hives are kept close to the manuka tree (tea tree) Leptospermum scoparium. Slight variations in chemical composition to the acacia honey with manuka being popular as a health supplement as well as proprietary products.
• clover honey - again, same as acacia and manuka, the honey is derived from nectar collected from the clover plant. More prevalent in the North America and Canada because of the greater expanse of grasslands available where clover tends to grow and limited availability in the UK and Europe due to loss of wild meadows as a result of increased urbanisation
• honey - widely available in supermarkets and made from nectar sourced from many different plants/flowers. Much depends on taste and flavour of the honey which is dictated by the quality of the nectar and how well the plants are cultivated and cared for. Organic varieties are available but again, choice depends on your taste preferences. For health purposes, honey has a host of benefits ranging from being a digestive aid, good for cuts & open wounds (great antibacterial properties), great nutrient, good for inflammatory disorders and a great alternative to refined sugar. It is also added to a range of toiletries and beauty products for its cosmetic benefits
• propolis - taken as supplements, propolis is a bee product made from the resinous exudate collected by bees from the leaf bud of certain trees (especially the poplar). It is modified by the bees' enzymes which use it as a structural component of their hives. It is rich in fats, amino acids, alcohol ethers and trace elements such as copper, iron, manganese and zinc. it is also high in vitamins (especially B vitamins, C, E and proto-vitamin A). It also possesses antibiotic properties and is good for mild pain relief. It is also effective in promoting regeneration of collagen, cartilage, bone and dental pulp
• royal jelly - taken as supplements and as the term implies, this is a bee product that is made exclusively for the development of the queen bee. It therefore contains a host of nutrients including amino acids, vitamins (B group and C mainly) and metabolites. It is also antibacterial, an immune booster, a digestive aid and numerous other health benefits
• bee pollen - taken as supplements in tablet form, bee pollen gathered by bees during their pollinating activities contains many nutrients including vitamins, proteins, fats, sugar, carbohydrate, growth hormones, co-enzymes and amino acids. People take it for various conditions but generally as a health aid and for allergic conditions. It has cosmetic uses when applied topically and for healing purposes
• beeswax - beeswax is a product made from the honeycomb of bees. The 3 major beeswax products are yellow beeswax, white beeswax and beeswax absolute. Yellow beeswax s the crude product obtained from the honeycomb, white beeswax is the bleaches version of yellow beeswax and beeswax absolute is made by treating yellow beeswax with alcohol. Unsurprisingly, each have their particular uses from medicine to manufacturing, from food and beverages to the cosmetic & beauty industry.

The collection of bee venom


 A typical bee venom
collection frame

The collection and sale of honey and other bee products rely on bees being alive and in healthy numbers. There has long been a traditional and synergistic relationship between humans and bees which continues to this day not only in Europe (although it is in danger in the UK at present due to the dwindling population of bees) but also in many other parts of the world. Early collection methods of the 1960s involved surgical removal of the venom gland or squeezing each individual bee until a droplet could be collected from the tip of the sting. Mercifully, this barbaric process has been taken over by more ethical methods which allegedly exercise some sensitivity to the suffering of bees and keeping them alive. However, recent methods involve the use of an electric shock which is the trigger or irritant that initiates the reflex action in bees to sting. One of the designs uses a collection frame (literally a frame wired with electrodes and covered with a piece of glass). The frame is mounted in a bee hive and when the bees come into contact with it, they receive a 'mild' electric shock and sting the glass. The venom secreted onto the glass dries up to resemble a white powder (rather like salt) and it is scraped off, collected and purified (to remove debris such as pollen, dust, dirt etc....). It is worth noting that an enormous amount of stings are needed to collect a very small fragment of venom (to give some idea, it takes over 10,000 bee stings to collect just 1g of venom) and although the initial stings do not kill the bees, in time following many stings, the sacs empty and the bee eventually dies (prematurely in comparison to its lifespan). In New Zealand, the cost of bee venom far exceeds the current value of gold! It also needs to be stated that this method is not useful for African honey bees or the more defensive honey bees in other parts of the world.

Why do we collect bee venom?
Observations that bee keepers rarely developed or suffered from inflammatory disorders particularly the pain and debilitating effects of arthritis has been made for some time now. It was thought that repeated stinging from bees meant that there was something in their venom that was protecting bee keepers from developing inflammatory joints. On this basis, much research was conducted for which there is some evidence but no clinical proof that it prevents arthritis. This was just one of a myriad of conditions being investigated but much was based on the initial research into allergy to bee stings which was often fatal in some individuals. Extraction of bee venom and study of its chemical constituents formed the backbone of treatment approaches to this day which relies on desensitizing susceptible individuals to bee venom so that their bodies do not respond in such a catastrophic way (anaphylaxis) which led to severe allergic reaction and death from bee stings. There is however, no scientific evidence to prove the clinical benefits of bee venom in any medical literature to date and therefore allergy (on the whole) remains one of the trickiest areas within medicine where a cure or remedy remains so elusive. Nevertheless the practice of apitherapy (so named after the Latin name for bees: Apis mellifera) arose as a result of potential benefits from animal stings. Bees are not the only species to products stings or venoms; snakes, scorpion, ants and wasps are all being investigated and researched for medicinal use.

Mechanism of action
There is no clinical evidence of bee venom's anti-ageing effect but there is plenty of research  on it which has focussed on its effect in diseases such as cancer and arthritis. Studies of its use as a skincare treatment have been limited and there are no legitimate scientific studies of the purported benefits of bee venom either topically or intravenously (ie. by injection). Medical uses of bee venom (apitherapy) uses purified bee stings which is the only medically approved product (FDA/EMA approval with official NICE Guidelines in the UK issued with its administration). It is given intravenously and is only approved for desensitising people who are hypersensitive (allergic) to bee venom. In Eastern Europe and in many Asian countries (including Japan and China), bee venom is used in official medical treatments of a large variety of ailments for a considerable length of time.

Drug label for a typical IV dose
of bee venom

Bee venom contains a host of biologically active compounds including enzymes, proteins, peptides, amino acids, physiologically active amines, sugars, phospholipids and volatile compounds. Medical grade bee venom is purified whole extract (mixed with sterile saline solution, distilled water or certain oils) to make an injectable form. No quality control of the creams or injections have been conducted (except the pharmaceutically made ampoules) therefore it is very difficult to ascertain the exact dosage and components in these products. Tablet versions* have had the toxic component melittin removed from them but interestingly, it is this very ingredient that is thought to be the active ingredient in anti-ageing beauty creams. Melittin is a highly toxic compound, and along with other inflammatory mediators in venom (histamine and other biogenic amines), contributes to the pain, swelling and itching associated with bee stings. The basis of bee venom's anti-ageing effect when applied topically, is that it is thought to trick the body into thinking it has been stung therefore initiating the inflammatory response. The healing and repair mode that is part of this process involves skin regeneration with increased production of collagen and elastin (key components that make skin look youthful).Bee venom also contains apimin (a potent neurotoxin) which increases cortisol production by the adrenal glands. Cortisol is the body's own (endogenous) anti-inflammatory agent which further enhances skin restoration.

*oral tablets taken internally have limited use since many of the biologically active subbstances will be deactivated by the potent stomach acid. Letting the tablets dissolve under the tongue may release small quantities of the active ingredients directly into the blood supply but no scientific studies have been conducted on this to determine the value of this mode of administration.

Note: Hymenoptera - order of insects that have the capacity to sting (includes ants, wasps and bees)

Ethical considerations and environmental cost
Bees are excellent pollinators and we can all do our bit to preserve their population by encouraging growth of plants that they like such as jasmine, honeysuckle and a range of flowering plants with bright, colourful blooms and foliage. Bees in their natural environment collect nectar from a wide area from many different plants/flowers. Each batch of honey that they make therefore has a different flavour each time it is collected because of this. Many people prefer this type of honey because it is more natural and supports local wildlife, it is more ethical than large scale manufacture from one plant species/tree orchard. The recent decline in bee population in the UK and other parts of Western Europe has had a devastating impact on the local wildlife and there continues to be much debate about the exact cause of their dwindling numbers (virus, excessive use of pesticides, climate change, increased urbanisation leading to loss of natural habitats such as meadows.... to name but a few). Collecting bee venom does eventually kill them (just not immediately) and whilst there is an argument for its medical use, I cannot see a single reason why bees should be exploited for the sake of beauty and vanity. It's deplorable. Moreover, the long-term use, cumulative and side-effects of beauty creams with bee venom is not yet known and I personally, wouldn't touch it with a barge pole given my predisposition to allergy. There are many other factors such as genetics, lifestyle and environment all associated with ageing, which is after all an inevitable process. Prices of these bee venom creams vary enormously which begs the question as to its quality and dosage at the very least. Exploitation of honey bees may also in the long-term modify their behaviour and result in unintended behavioural patterns which may destroy their innate ability to collect nectar and make honey, which we have enjoyed for centuries. Not to mention the devastating impact it will have on crop products to feed the ever-increasing human populations.

There is very little credible data and information on the cosmetic uses of bee venom and with good reason; it is a toxic protein. There are some great journal articles but almost all of them only focus on its medical uses. One of which can be accessed here:

http://www.ijoart.org/docs/Studies-on-Bee-Venom-and-Its-Medical-Uses.pdf gives a good historical account and a useful scientific summary of bee venom and its products.

The Truth About Parabens

I have been interested in natural skincare for as long as I can remember, ever since I developed sensitive skin and went through significant episodes of very bad eczema when anything and everything would trigger the symptoms. Since that time, there has been a plethora of new skincare products on the market, not all of them for eczema mind, but nevertheless useful and beneficial for skin health. More than most, the cosmetic and beauty industry has seen a significant expansion of skincare in general with many of them making some outrageous claims (the biggest selling claim is of course is in the gamut of anti-wrinkle gems all purporting to reverse the signs of ageing and resuming our youthful glow to the ‘beautiful’ and ‘flawless’ state it once was! This is big business and unsurprisingly, there are is tough competition to formulate the best skincare that can achieve this without resorting to drastic measures such as surgery.The last few years has seen a noteworthy expansion of the natural skincare products market with a trend leaning towards products that are free of synthetic chemicals such as sodium lauryl/laureth sulphate or SLS, parabens, phthalates, artificial preservatives, over-manufactured and processed products as well as synthetic fragrances often made from petrochemicals. An increasing number of people are concerned about what they put on the skin and worried about the health consequences of such harsh synthetic chemicals which may accumulate in the body.

The long standing controversy over one such chemical is parabens which generated interest (alarm actually!) some years ago when it was linked to cancer with reports of its carcinogenic properties. In particular, was the concern that its presence in anti-perspirant and deodorant products was somehow linked to the onset of breast cancer. Since then, there has been a lot written about parabens especially as a ‘chemical nasty’ and we should avoid it at all costs. So let’s look at this concern and examine the real truth about parabens.

Parabens are a class of chemicals widely used as preservatives not only in the beauty and cosmetic industries but also in the food industry. They are effective preservatives (bactericidal and fungicidal) and therefore commonly found in toiletries such as shampoos, shaving gels and body washes as well as in a range of skincare products such as moisturisers, sun creams and make up to keep the products free from harmful microbes. For this reason, they are also found in a range of food products as preservatives (with FDA and EU authorisation) and commonly found labelled as E numbers E218 (methylparaben), E214 (ethylparaben), E216 (propylparaben) and butylparaben. Less common parabens include isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, benzylparaben and their sodium salts. Quite often, a combination of these and other preservatives are used to broaden the spectrum of their preservative action. All commercially used parabens are synthetically produced, although some are identical (molecular, biochemical and structural) to those found in nature. Parabens are found naturally-occuring in a variety of foods such as blueberries, apples, blackcurrants, carrots, onions, grapes, yeast extract, natural vanilla extract, wine vinegar and cheese; the human body is perfectly capable of processing parabens detected by the presence of their breakdown products in urine. Parabens have a long-established use as preservatives since the 1920s and have a safety record that's widely accepted by the scientific community.

Given the relative abundance of parabens in nature, it is hard to imagine the fuss over its alleged cancer risk but nevertheless, we need to examine these claims. So where did it all start? A study conducted in 1998 demonstrated that some parabens have mild oestrogenic activity. This means that they mimic oestrogen, an important hormone (in both men and women) that has been previously shown to accelerate the growth of some cancers (in particular, oestrogen-dependent cancers). However, this oestrogenic activity was extremely weak (almost minuscule - to give some idea, it was reported at being 100,000 times weaker than the main and most powerful of the oestrogens: oestradiol). However, the mutagenic effects (trigger for cancerous change) of oestrogen is dependent on free radical chemistry and is not simply a matter of whether an oestrogenic effect (however weak) is exerted so the point of this research is questionable to say the least. However, this initial research led to other studies into this 'carcinogenic effect', notably whether parabens were present in breast cancer tissue in the belief that parabens in anti-perspirants and deodorant products were linked to breast cancer.  A 2004 study revealed that traces of parabens were indeed present in breast cancer tissue (in 18 out of 20 samples) but equally, parabens were also found in 9 of their 'blank controls', some of which were in significantly higher quantities than the tissue samples, later shown to be a contamination of the glassware.  We can safely rule out this study as credible as it is incredibly flawed.

It needs to be noted that parabens have never been used in and are not present in approx. 95% of anti-perspirants and deodorants on the market  since most are alcohol-based or with an aerosol mechanism which precludes the necessity for further preservative action; alcohol is a potent preservative. Therefore, the link between anti-perspirant & deodorant products and breast cancer is extremely tenuous at best. But nonetheless, the lack of removal of these toiletries from sale only served to consolidate the fear and public concern fuelled by rumour in an email circular, the origins of which are difficult to establish. It is also worth noting that anti-perspirants also contain aluminium-based products and zirconium salts as their active ingredients; studies into whether these ingredients are carcinogenic rather than parabens is currently being considered. The mere action of inhibiting the sweating process by blocking sweat pores under the arm doesn't seem natural and does warrant some investigation at the very least! Sweat is an excretory product of the body containing a number of toxins that are destined to be released from the body, NOT to be reabsorbed back into the blood. Could this be having an impact in breast cancer development?

A more recent study was conducted into detecting the presence of parabens in  samples of breast cancer tissue taken from 40 women diagnosed with the disease - the results of which were published in March 2012. One or more paraben esters were detected in 158 of the 160 samples studied (99%) and 96 of the samples (60%) contained all five of the most common esters. Further, the authors noted that there was a disproportionate incidence of breast cancer in the upper quadrant of the breast nearest the armpit with a significantly higher level of n-propylparaben in the axilla region closest to the armpit (than in the mid regions). The other 4 parabens were equally distributed across all parts of the breast.
Let's have a closer look at this data:

• drainage route of the axillary lymph nodes travel through the armpit as a first point of contact -any breast cancer tissue will undoubtedly show the presence of substances; the study was only looking for parabens
• sources of the parabens not determined - given the relative abundance of parabens (food, water, environmental oestrogens or xeno-oestogens and toiletries etc...), it did not establish where they were from
• 9 of the 40 women have never used underarm products - the parabens must have come from elsewhere
• other risk factors in breast cancer - all major breast cancer campaign groups reiterate that this is a multifactorial disease meaning that the causes are attibuted to many reasons. The 3 biggest factors are age, gender and family history (genetic). Other equally important factors include diet, lifestyle (eg. smoking), stress , HRT, the contraceptive pill, not having children and environmental oestrogens (xeno-oestrogens)
• study did not demonstrated cause and effect merely the presence of parabens in breast cancer tissue. It did not compare paraben levels in other parts of the body and this study is very small (only 40 women were studied)
• the study did not examine healthy breast tissue (as control or comparators)

Breast cancer charities are right in their condemnation of the manner in which this study was publicised highlighting that this creates further worry and fear about parabens. The point of this research still baffles me - looking for parabens in any body tissue tissue is likley to yield positive results given the relative abundance and our exposure  to parabens (both natural and synthetic). Identifying the source(s) of the parabens, then establishing cause and effect in addition to using healthy controls is essential. Many people do not understand RISK (which is very different to CAUSE) so making this distinction is paramount whenever conducting research into this.
To date, there is no link or convincing scientific evidence that parabens affect breast cancer risk. Further, there are no strong epidemiological studies in the medical literature that links breast cancer risk with anti-perspirant use, and very little scientific evidence to support the claim. To substantiate this, a carefully designed epidemiological study published in 2002 compared 813 women with breast cancer and 793 women without the disease showed that there was no link between breast cancer risk and anti-perspirant or deodorant use, or indeed underarm shaving (thought to introduce parabens into the area via open cuts or nicks results from this process). Parabens are safe with FDA approval and EU authorisation for use in internal products (foods and medicines) and external products (toiletries, cosmetics and topical medicines). It needs to be borne in mind that preservatives are necessary as the natural oxidation process of ingredients in a product can quickly go rancid producing more lethal and toxic subtances which can be worse than any imagined risk from parabens. However, there is no doubt that further work is necessary rather than recycling pointless pieces of small-scale research which are poorly constructed  and designed - surely this is worse than useless?
So what about alternatives?

• consider discarding the use of anti-perspirants or deodorants if you are worried - but remember to wash regularly if you want to avoid body odour and maintain your social life!
• switch to products which are natural or organic, reading all labels carefully but remember, products without preservatives will go rancid very quickly and may produce toxins which can be more dangerous
• natural preservatives in toiletries can include key essential oils, neem oil, sweet orange oil, vitamin E, honey , grapefruit seed extract and potassium sorbate amongst others.... However, all of them have their limitations despite the claim on 'natural'. For instance, grapefruit seed extract is a natural antibiotic and antiseptic (true) but the process of extraction is done under chemical synthesis involving catalysts and reagents under extreme heat. Some commercial preparations are known to include methylparaben and triclosan and the so-called natural grapefruit seed extract has not been shown to provide any antimicrobial protection whatsoever, rather it's the parabens preserving the product

So be careful when dismissing parabens - many of the big players in the cosmetic industry extol the virtues of their products being 'free of parabens' like it is something of a claim when in fact, you are likely to encounter a host of other ingredients in them that offer little or no preservative action. All synthetic preservatives have been tested for safety and effectiveness (microbial challenge tests) and are found in a range of products. These include benzylalcohol, tetrasodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol and germall plus amongst others. Be careful when considering ditching parabens and coming to immediate conclusions without weighing up all the evidence. There will always be radical alarmists eager to sensationalise for the sake of making headlines. Personally, I am more worried about the quality of the air I breathe and the traces of medicines in the drinking water than I am about parabens!

For more information, please refer to:
www.fda.gov (US regulation authority for foods, drugs and skincare products)
www.colipa.eu (EU legislation and product labelling)
www.cancer.gov (US cancer information website)
http://www.cancer.org/Search/index?QueryText=parabens&x=0&y=0 (news items about parabens)
www.personalcarecouncil.org (US information on personal care products their ingredients)