Mineral Make-Up - just hype and clever marketing?

Every so often, the cosmetics and beauty industry markets a new beauty regime or product. Whilst mineral make-up has been around for a while now, few have heard of it other than the experts and professionals in the field, and those discerning few who actually take care in what they put on their skin for the sake of beauty.  People think mineral means natural, so they are drawn to it. Many people find out about mineral make-up when they want to 'go green' with their cosmetics. With the current interest in safe, natural, and organic products, the mineral make-up approach is very popular. Without doubt, this trend is an increasing one.

The Ancient History of Mineral Make-up
Mineral makeup got its commercial start in the 1970s with some of the really early all-natural make-up products. But its history is as ancient as the human desire to enhance one's looks. Mineral make-up is a return to technologies that have been in use since ancient times. Many ancient cultures used ground-up natural minerals as a means of applying colour to the skin for decoration, camouflage, war paints, etc. Cleopatra's kohl-rimmed eyes are an example. However, the history of mineral make-up no doubt goes back much farther, even to early cave-dwellers.

So who first successfully marketed the concept? One pioneer was Diane Ranger, the cosmetic chemist who founded Bare Escentuals in 1976 and later started Colorescience Pro, another mineral line. She developed her first mineral cosmetics because she felt there was a need and market for natural ingredients and a natural look and feel.

In 1976, cosmetics firms were required to list ingredients on their products for the first time and there was a shock as to the extent of the ingredients in them. The growing desire for natural cosmetics coincided with the increasing number of women who identified themselves as having sensitive skin. Add in marketing and media awareness, and an ageing baby boomer which all mattered.

What's in Mineral Make-up?
Minerals such as iron oxides, talc, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide are micronised, or ground and milled, into tiny particles to create make-up. Different products micronise to different levels. A product micronised to six times leaves minerals larger so they go on the skin with a light to medium coverage. Products micronised 12 times create fine-sized particles that sit closer together and offer more coverage.

A key difference from conventional make-up is what's not in mineral make-up. It generally does not contain the emollient oils and waxes, fragrance, and preservative ingredients found in conventional formulations. Mineral products are usually preservative-free and since they have very low odour, they are often also fragrance-free; preservatives and fragrance are often what cause irritation.

To ensure you're buying a quality mineral make-up product, read the label. If it says "mineral-enriched" or if the formulation is liquid or mousse, these products may contain ingredients such as preservatives (which are vital) or dimethicone which is sometimes added for a smooth texture. Items that aren't powders might also contain moisturisers, antioxidant vitamins, or other ingredients for your skin. It's your choice.

The Benefits of Mineral Make-up
The benefits of mineral make-up have many women flocking to try it - and it isn't just all hype. One popular claim is that it can clear up acne. It's unlikely that mineral make-up will clear up pimples which can be caused by many factors including changes in hormone levels. The anti-irritating ingredients like zinc can be soothing to inflammation, but it's not likely a cure-all. The lack of the filler ingredients found in conventional make-up however, can lead to less pore clogging. That can mean fewer breakouts.

Unfortunately, there are no studies to date on this especially those that are reliable and reputable. However, if you are putting on moisturiser followed by sunscreen and then on top of that foundation topped with powder, you are more likely to have clogs. Therefore it is unsurprising that skin problems arise. Quite often, consumers feedback saying that mineral make-up does not make acne worse but it doesn't make it better either. So despite the calming effects of zinc, mineral make-up is clearly better for acne than any other kind of cosmetics. Therefore if you have acne, a recommendation would be to using skin care products targeted for pimples.

Another claim is that mineral make-up acts as a sunscreen to protect skin from sun damage. The protective claims for zinc oxide (the white stuff your local lifeguard paints on his nose) and titanium dioxide, usually found in powder blends, do have some research behind them. The FDA has approved zinc oxide as a skin protector and titanium dioxide as a sunscreen.

Importantly however, no mineral make-up is going to give you enough SPF to protect you against damaging ultraviolet rays. Some brands claim that the product has confirmed SPF factors. However, it's unclear how much powder is needed  to get full protection. Having the SPF in the mineral make-up is a benefit, but it’s extra. But this would apply to all commercial skincare products anyway. It is certainly advisable not to skip sunscreen and if, for example, you are going to sit outside at lunch and don't have time to entirely reapply your face (moisturiser, sunscreen, and make-up), you can dust on a coat of mineral powder with SPF for extra protection.

Mineral Make-up: Is It Worth It?
When it comes to mineral make-up's supposed skin-soothing properties, it is anti-inflammatory, however the calamine lotion you use to calm a rash is basically zinc oxide coloured with iron oxide, both of which are in mineral make-up. But there's no proof of this claim or indication of how much product you need for that result.

What about the claim that it's so gentle you can sleep in it? Mineral make-up's light-as-air feel is part of what makes it so popular, and tempting to sleep in. However, all good skincare specialises would advise against this  as sleeping in make-up of any kind encourages the formation of clogs and irritation.
Mineral make-up might not last as long on your face or be as durable as conventional make-up because it doesn't contain standard cosmetic ingredients such as binders, waterproof polymers, and other 'stick-to-your-skin' agents. True mineral make-up is limited in its natural range of shades, so it may be difficult to find a perfect skin tone match.

What is pure mineral make-up?
Minerals in make-up make-up are more than just what gives it the colour. It is made from microscopic flat crystals that overlap one another on the skin to crate a filtering layer that allows the skin to breathe. It also protects your skin from environmental pollutants. It even protects your skin from getting sunburn with a broad spectrum of sun protection. Which is why its can be the best type of mineral powder foundation for your skin. But be careful and check for ingredients such as talc. That can not be good for your skin. In addition to the minerals and inorganic pigments, your mineral make-up can also include natural preservatives antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, nutrients, and, of course, sunscreens. Mineral make-up is often recommended by dermatologists for anyone who has sensitive skin and wants to cover up acne, scars, and rosacea. All that protection from a pure item from the earth, but just what is in mineral make-up?

Listed below are some of the more common ingredients found in basic pure mineral make-up:

1. Titanium dioxide. This is your natural sunscreen as well as an anti-inflammatory agent. It’s great for people with acne, rosacea, inflammatory skin conditions, as well as post-surgical or post-chemical peel skin. It’s ideal for sensitive skin and perfect for all skin types. Note that it may not give you enough sun screen protection, so wear your sun screen before going outside.
2. Zinc oxide is also a natural sunscreen that provides broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection. Even though it is also a natural sunscreen, it still will not give you all the protection you will need, so again, be prepared to still use your moisturiser with added SPF 25 or higher sunscreen.
3. Mica. This is the mineral that gives your mineral make-up sparkles. It comes in a variety of hues starting from pale green, brown, black, silver, and gold, to even being colourless. It is what reflects light off your face, creating an illusion of smoother, softer, more radiant skin. It’s known as your natural glitter. It also adds shimmer and lots of colour!
4. Kaolin clay. This is the mildest china clay used in creating cosmetics. It also offers great oil absorbing properties, without irritating your skin. It also helps your make-up stay where you put it. Kaolin clay is a better choice for your skin overall than talc.
5. Iron oxides. This is a natural mineral, and it also adds colours to your mineral make-up. There is more than one type of iron oxide.
6. Serecite. This is a fluffy, translucent mineral that provides a silky texture. It is colourless and often used in setting powder (when creating your personal recipes either as a business like Overall Beauty Minerals or as your own, you add it last to give your make-up staying power). It’s white, but goes on clear. It has been used as a primer and adds water resistance and fade/crease-proof qualities to the make-up.
7. Silica. This is a mineral from flint and quartz used to absorb oil and improve the feel of the product you are wearing.
8. Ultramarine pigments. These are derived from limestone containing the blue mineral lazurite. These pigments are your blues, violets, and others, and are very strong pigments, so very little needs to be used when creating colours.

Note: Carmine. This may only be a problem to those who are vegetarians and vegans, due to the fact that it happens to be a crushed extraction from a beetle. Now, if that is something that you want to stay away from, then do that. It’s more of a personal choice than something that’s bad for you. Carmine is found in many brands due to the fact its the most well known natural red out there. And I put it here under what not to find in your mineral makeup do to the fact that you can not call your brand vegan, if you are using carmine. And carmine can be found in a ton of things, from blushes, eye shadows, candles, the toothpaste you use if its tinted red. Next to cosmetic dyes its one of the most common way to create reds, and pinks.

So, now we know what is likely to be in mineral make-up, what about all the ingredients that really shouldn't be in them? These are all well known ingredients found in a ton of brands of make-up. They also can be a issue for those who want to wear mineral make-up but they want something that is as pure as possible. In my opinion there is no need for cheap fillers.

Here is a list of cheap fillers, ingredients that are in a lot of major brands. These are known additives and cheap fillers that saves the creator of the mineral make-up brand money, but may cause you problems.

1. Talc (magnesium silicate), is a common filler, and can cause respiratory problems. Talc will dry your skin (think, what does baby talc do?). We are talking about the exact ingredient. It will also accentuate those fine lines and wrinkles you are trying to hide.
2. Boron and bismuth oxychloride. Both are well known skin irritants and can cause itching, rashes, and cystic acne breakouts.
3. There could be FD&C dyes, which can cause acne when used in a skin care item.
4. Imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea are not that well known, nor should they be used in a true pure mineral make-up. Being that mineral make-up is minerals, there is no real need for preservatives, which both of these are. They are the most commonly used preservatives, after parabens, and is also the primary cause of contact dermatitis.
5. Parabens (methyl-, propyl-, butyl-, and ethylparabens) are used to extend the shelf life of beauty products. They have been know to cause allergic reactions and skin rashes for women. Whilst there is a need for preservatives, parabens have had a lots of bad press unfairly so in my opinion. Much of this is about discrediting them in favour of more 'natural' preservatives which ironically mixes the natural substances with combinations of parabens in order to extract them from natural sources. I have already written about parabens in an earlier post entitled: The Truth about Parabens: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/truth-about-parabens.html

Other ingredients to watch out for:

1. Ferric Ferrocyanide. There are some brands that use this, which is a subject of controversy due to its toxicity. It is what gives more greens and purples their colour. If its not lip safe colour? Then you will probably find this ingredient in it.
2. Starch powders and flours like rice flour. These are a few more super cheap fillers which can cause respiratory health risks and may even increase acne production and breakouts.

For more information, please go to: http://overallbeauty.com/beauty-blog/2013/09/15/just-what-are-minerals-in-mineral-makeup/ or http://www.webmd.com/beauty/makeup/the-lowdown-on-mineral-makeup.