Thursday 25 July 2013

Exploring the Hype - Argan Oil

Argan Oil This new 'miracle' product has many uses: medicinal/ health, culinary and cosmetic. Argan oil has been touted as a panacea of all ails and the answer to long life, vitality and vibrant skin health. But what is the real deal?

Argan oil has a long tradition of use by the Berber tribe of Morocco who extract the oil from the seed of the fruit of of the evergreen Argan tree (Argania spinosa) also known as the Moroccon Ironwood or more popularly, the Tree of Life for its many properties and uses.. Its life span is said to be anywhere between 125 to 450 years and the tree may not come into full production until it is at least 40-60 years old. The tree grows mainly in the southwestern regions of Morocco (and found sparsely in Algeria and Israel) but due to its popularity in the West, the oil from this tree has become almost synonymous with Morocco. So what is so special about Argan oil? There are essentially 3 categories for which argan oil is sought after:
1. medicinal (internal use)
2. culinary (internal use)
3. cosmetic (external use)
 
Medicinal & Health Benefits The unique and powerful health benefits of argan oil have given rise to it being labelled as 'liquid gold'. Analysis of the oil has shown that it contains twice as much essential fatty acids (EFA) than olive oil as well as containing other key nutrients such as Vitamin E, polyphenols, antioxidants, carotenoids and plant sterols. Because of this, it is easy to see the appeal regarding health benefits: it will lower cholesterol (probably by promoting the 'good' cholesterol or HDL cholesterol in relation to the 'bad' cholesterol or LDL cholesterol), therefore it promotes heart health. It also promotes liver health, blood circulation, immunity, prevents cancer (antioxidant properties), alleviates arthritis and rheumatism (probably due to its high EFA content), it is anti-imflammatory (involved in endogenous pain-relieveing pathways probably due to prostaglandin production), alleviates dry skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis and relieves the pain and skin symptoms of chicken pox.
 
Culinary Uses The culinary uses of argan oil is really based on its EFA content in addition to the other key ingredients which confer numerous health properties. It can used as a cooking oil without degrading the chemical configuration of the oils, unlike many of the other oils such as olive oil. As a salad dressing, it has a very pleasant and nutty flavour, and it is popular in Morocco as a dip for bread using the paste traditionally made from the residues of the kernels after oil extraction. This 'amlou paste' is sweeetened with honey and served as a bread dip for breakfast.
 
Cosmetic Uses The appeal really comes from the fact that argan oil contain superior quantities of vitamin E, a key nutrient for the skin. Traditionally, the Berber people use argan oil to nourish and beautify the skin, hair and nails, make handmade soaps and cosmetics. More recently, the big cosmetics companies have started advertising the benefits of their product by dint of them containing argan oil (usually skin creams and moisturisers by way of preventing wrinkles)... always a bestseller but it is best to check that the source of the argan oil is of good quality and of sufficient quantity, not to mention traded ethically! Many new products have also come onto the market particularly hair oils, shampoos and conditioners.

Other Uses The reason that the argan tree is often referred to by the Berber people as the 'tree of life' is simply bacause it serves numerous other useful purposes for their sustenance and their community. For instance, the tree itself is felled for timber (provides basic building material and for furniture making), as firewood (heat for cooking), ornamental (decorative boxes and handmade crafts for the tourists), charcoal (heat for cooking) and animal fodder (food for their livestock: goats, camels and sheep).

Production, Manufacturing & Quality Traditionally, the Berber tribespeople (women actually) used to crack the kernels of the fruits and extract the oil by hand. No solvent or heat is used so this is truly an authentic organic, cold-pressed oil of high quality. Recently however, due to the high demand for this oil combined with commercial interest has meant that this process has been largely replaced by mechanical presses which considerably reduces the time it takes for extraction, allowing the argan oil business to grow into a viable business option for the Berber tribe. Since no water is added to press the dough, the oil has a much longer shelf-life, of up to 2 years than the hand-made product. However, given that the product may linger in storage (conditions of which are not known), there is a risk of oxidation which is subject to spoilage and degradation of the oil. No quality control of this process (as far as I know) has been carried out to date.
 
Ethical Trade or Exploitation? Nothing annoys me more than needless exploitation of poorer communities by richer economies and global corporations. Very little is stated about this now but it will be only a matter of time before a traditional custom and the livelihoods of age-long tribes and cultural practices become completely globalised and dominated by commercially-driven companies. I refer of course to the mass production and exporting of argan oil; a product traditionally produced by the Berber tribe of Morocco serving a myriad of functions for the local community. Due to the overwhelming demand for argan oil, the Argan tree has been added to the world heritage list in 1999 by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation) in order to protect it from encroaching desertification. The oil came to the attention of the outside world in the 1990s and is now highly sought after for the benefits it presents. But it has been an important resource for the Berber people for centuries and hopefully will continue to be so. As demand for argan oil has grown since the beginning of the boom (around 1999), there was a drive to ensure a fair and honest trade that not only benefitted the Berber tribe but also made this a commercially feasible and responsible business to meet the demands of interest of the outside world (actually, Western Europe and more recently, the US). By preserving the forests where the argan tree grows, ensuring the best deal for the Berber people, the Moroccon government, UNESCO and the German Government Development Agency (GTZ) are committed to limit the commercial exploitation of the Berber tribe (by the Swiss and French entrepreneurs) and preserve ecological areas dedicated to the growth and sustainability of the Argan trees. Without fail, with continued demand for this oil, it is only a matter of time before the world is devoid of this wonderful plant species that has served the local people for centuries.
 
For more information about Argan Oil and its trade please visit the Argan Oil Society www.arganoilsociety.org
For purchasing products of ethical trade try Wild Wood Groves (www.wildwoodgroves.com) or Evolve Beauty (www.evolvebeauty.co.uk)

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