Monday, 20 February 2017

Better then Botox?

We'd all love to look younger and fresher, but how do we go about it without resorting to needles and cosmetic surgery? If you are dreaming of dreaming of dewy, wrinkle-free skin, these age zapping complementary therapies and holistic beauty treatments are natural ways to hold back the years.......

Many people use botox injections to keep their youthful appearance, and while it may work for some, there are many cases of people taking the smoothing effects a little too far, but there are loads of natural treatments and therapies out there which can have a youth-boosting effect, not just on your face but on your entire body So here's how to look ten years younger, the natural way!


CRYOTHERAPY
Cryotherapy for beauty can help maintain a youthful appearance while reducing the signs of ageing such as wrinkles, fine lines, and blemishes. ... Cryotherapy for beauty treatments are designed to shock the body into action by increasing blood circulation and boosting the immune and central nervous systems. This chilly therapy involves exposing yourself to extremely low temperatures (as low as -140 degrees) for a short duration of time. It is believed to regenerate tissues and stimulate collagen production.

COSMETIC ACUPUNCTURE
Acupuncture has been around for thousands of years and although relatively new to the West the Chinese have been using points on the face to combat the signs of ageing and to help with various skin conditions for many years. It was in use as early as the Song Dynasty (960AD - 1279AD) when the Empress and Emperor's concubines received Cosmetic Acupuncture. So, what kind of results can be achieved? Unlike BOTOX®, which carries a large number of possible side effects, Cosmetic Acupuncture is a totally natural and holistic anti-ageing treatment that aims to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.


Cosmetic Acupuncture, in contrast, will require a course of treatment to show pronounced results. However, the whole face is treated and as body points are also used, a patient's health and well-being can be greatly improved by undertaking a series of treatments. Facial patients often report that they feel healthier, sleep better, have brighter eyes and feel more balanced; those are the kind of side effects we like! The acupuncture points and the way that they are used in a Cosmetic Acupuncture session have all been chosen specifically with this overall achievement of well-being in mind.

This treatment also works on lifting the face, particularly where the face begins to sag around the 'jowls' and the cheek area, rather than simply targeting wrinkles. This facial rejuvenation acupuncture treatment is based on the principles of Chinese Medicine. It involves inserting very fine needles into the face and throughout the body, in particular areas of the face, ears, neck, hands, and legs along channels or meridians of qi. The effects can be very noticeable - fine lines and deep wrinkles are diminished, bags under eyes reduced, jowls firmed, puffiness eliminated, droopy eyelids lifted and double chins minimised. Further treatment can also help dry skin by increasing local circulation of blood and lymph to the face. 

CRYSTAL HEALING
Crystal healing is an ancient therapy that uses the powers of crystals and gems in order to help improve general health and well- being. It is a Holistic treatment therefore it helps to create health and balance emotionally, physically and spiritually. Crystals have been used for many years for their amazing benefits but it is only now as we are seeking alternative ways to help with our problems and worries that crystals have come to the forefront of holistic therapies.

Crystal healers harness the energetic powers of therapeutic stones by placing them on reflex points on the face and body to promote vitality Many therapists use rose quartz in their facial massages as it has long been prized for beauty rituals across the world and is famed for its health-boosting properties. Meanwhile, other therapists can offer a crystal wand massage, designed to combine the benefits of crystal healing and with traditional massage techniques, reiki, acupressure points and a blend of essential oils.

MESOTHERAPY
Meso (from the Greek mesos, meaning "middle") and therapy (from the Greek therapeia "to treat medically") is the practice of using a combination of target-specific micro-injections into the second layer of the skin in order to deliver healing or corrective treatment.  The French Academy of Medicine recognised mesotherapy as a Speciality of Medicine in 1987. Mesotherapy has been widely used for aesthetic purposes as an alternative or complementary to traditional non-surgical cosmetic treatments such as dermal fillers and wrinkle relaxing injections. 
This prickly beauty treatment uses tiny needles to pump high-strength nutrients and vitamins directly into the skin. As the skin ages the blood supply diminishes such that the supply of nutrition, oxygen and water to the skin is sub-optimal. Mesotherapy basically bypasses the circulation and delivers the nutrients to the skin cells from the outside; tiny injections are made into the dermis and epidermis so that the cells imbibe the nutrient and water-rich mixture.

Wednesday, 18 January 2017

HGH Creams - Fact or Fiction?

Human growth hormone (HGH) has many beneficial effects that people can experience through the selection of the right supplement. There are releasers, injections and HGH creams. Choosing one variety of product or another will depend on understanding its qualities and the manner in which HGH is administered. HGH creams offer a simple and non-invasive possibility but are they efficient?

What Is HGH?
HGH is a hormone secreted by the pituitary gland. In children, HGH is responsible for growth. In adults, it plays a number of additional roles. Growth hormone can be used to increase muscle mass, boost metabolism, decrease fat through promoted lipolysis and provide an overall sensation of energy and well-being.

There are several other important health benefits worth mentioning:

  •  Higher bone density
  •  Increased protein synthesis
  •  Protects organs and slows down the aging process
  •  Stimulates the functioning of the immune system
  •  Improves sleep quality
  •  Regulates blood pressure
  •  Increases libido
  •  Improves the levels of cholesterol in the bloodstream
  •  Makes skin and hair healthier and more beautiful


What Are HGH Creams?
There is a big difference between HGH creams and the other products that stimulate the production of the hormone. The injections introduce synthetic HGH into the bloodstream. Natural supplements like GenF20 Plus (video review) come in the form of pills that stimulate the functioning of the pituitary gland. Creams are applied to the skin, which means that the absorption is slower. Using such products will demand a longer period of time for the effects to become obvious.

If you are interested in having healthier and more youthful skin, you will enjoy HGH creams. If you are looking forward to experiencing the other benefits, HGH supplements like GenF20 Plus will be a much better possibility.

Pros And Cons
Most experts agree that HGH therapy is effective solely when injections and all-natural HGH releasers are used. The general consensus in the scientific community is that creams are much more inefficient than the other forms of HGH therapy. Many HGH creams, however, contain a blend of very beneficial ingredients. HGH could be delivered in a formula containing aloe vera, vitamins and natural extracts. Finding this kind of cream can be incredibly beneficial for the skin.

If you are interested in such cosmetics, you should dedicate time to doing research and reading reviews. No two HGH creams are alike. Get a list of the ingredients, explore their actions and see what buyers have to say about the product. Doing your homework in advance will help you pick a cream that will do what it promises.

Other Possibilities
If you want to get the benefits of HGH fast, you will have to choose an alternative to creams. There are no studies and clinical trials confirming the ability of the cream to affect the body in the same way like the direct introduction of HGH in the bloodstream.

Injections are the most powerful option but it does come with the risk of side effects and overdose. Such treatments should be carried out solely under medical supervision. Keep in mind injections can be very expensive.The safest and quickest possibility involves the use of an all-natural HGH releaser. These supplements stimulate the natural production of growth hormone, which makes them safe.

At the same time, such supplements deliver faster and more consistent benefits than the use of HGH creams. If beautiful skin is your number one priority, you should give human growth hormone creams a try. You will enjoy a cleaner complexion and a reduction in wrinkles.

HGH creams, however, will be highly inefficient in terms of improving your overall health and making you leaner. Natural supplements will do a much better job without causing side effects and without costing a fortune.

Reference:
http://www.hghgurus.com/facts/do-hgh-creams-work-and-are-there-other-options

Monday, 19 December 2016

Focus on Moringa

Image result for moringa oleiferaThis tropical tree used in traditional medicine in South Asia and Africa is packed with nutritious benefits.

What is it?
Moringa is a leafy shrub that's native to the tropics and sub-Himalayan areas o f Pakistan, Afghanistan, India and Bangladesh. Thanks to its long, dangly seed pods, which are eaten i n a similar way to green beans, it's also known as the 'Drumstick Tree'. In addition to the pods, its leaves, flowers, bark and roots are highly prized for their traditional healing properties, which are linked to treating anaemia, joint pain, diarrhoea and ulcers, as well as boosting libido!

However, most medical claims remain untested.

What is it good for?
The leaves and seed pods are extremely nutritious and are often added to the food supply i n countries where malnutrition is common; especially as it's cheap and easy to grow. Moringa provides iron, complete protein, calcium and magnesium, as well as vitamins A, E and K, while the seed pods are also r i ch i n fibre.
Studies show the leaves in particular have a high antioxidant capacity, protecting cells from damage caused by free radicals or ageing.

Fighting Infection
Related imageSome antioxidant compounds i n moringa are great for fighting bacteria; indeed, it's often applied topically (by mixing the powder with water to make a paste) to treat conditions such as athlete's foot. A study in Pakistan grew four types of infectious bacteria, then added an extract of moringa bark to each; after which many of the bacteria were zapped. Most affected was Staphylococcus aureus, which a third of us carry in our noses, and is a common cause o f skin infections.


Preventing Cancer
It's thought the flavanoid and phenolic compounds in moringa's leaves and seeds could help protect against cancer. While clinical trials are needed to investigate this further, a South Korean study found moringa leaf extract killed off lung cancer cells, and South African research found i t prevented cancer cells in the throat
from growing by attacking their DNA structure.

Controlling Blood Sugar Levels
The use of moringa i n traditional medicine to combat diabetes could have some basis. A small study, published in the Thai Medical Journal, found that a daily four gram dose o f moringa increased insulin production by an impressive 74%. However, further and extensive studies are needed to support this finding.

How do I get it?
Unless you live i n the tropics and can nip out to your garden to pick a leaf or two, the best way to get moringa is in supplement form. Powders can be added to food, creating a pleasant green taste, and there are also capsules available. There's a lack of research into recommended dosage, so there isn't an official figure - but many medical websites suggest a dose of up to 4grams a day. However, avoid taking moringa if you are pregnant, as it has been linked to risk of miscarriage or harm to your baby's health. 
Image result for moringa oil
In addition to being used for food and traditional medicine, various parts of the tree have numerous uses including being a source for fuel and lubricant for machinery.

The seeds of the moringa tree are pressed to produce pale-yellow non-drying oil. The oil is known as "ben oil" or "behen oil" because it has a high concentration of behenic acid, a fatty acid. Due to antioxidants that act as natural preservatives, it is a stable oil, resistant to rancidity, giving it a reported shelf life of five years. It is a nutrient dense, high in palmitoleic, oleic and linoleic acids, moisturizing fatty acids and vitamins A and C.

An Age Old Beauty Secret
In ancient Rome, Greece and Egypt it was used in making perfume and to protect the skin. The oil is still used for effleurage to extract flower fragrance and is used for hair oils because it absorbs and retains scents.

In Egypt it was used to make medicinal ointments and salves and to protect the skin from the desert environment. A daily skin treatment for wrinkles and sun damage combined gum of frankincense and ground Cyprus grass mixed with fermented plant juice. A venerated oil, vases of moringa oil were found inside ancient tombs.

Skin Care Benefits
Moringa oil is found in numerous cosmetics due to moisturising, cleansing and emollient properties. It’s used in shampoos and conditioners and other hair care products, lotions, body oils, lip balms, anti-ageing and wrinkle creams, face creams, soaps and body wash, perfume and deodorants. It’s used for aromatherapy and massage oils because it blends well with essential oils and is a good carrier oil.

Moringa oil absorbs easily into the skin, improving the appearance and radiance of skin. It has skin healthy nutrients like vitamin A, which helps build collagen in the skin, vitamin C to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and the healing and anti-inflammatory benefits of vitamin E.

Help For Dry Skin

  • It softens dry skin and maintains moisture in the skin.
  • It is good for conditioning dry, chapped lips.
  • It’s beneficial to treat rough, dry skin conditions like dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis.

Anti-Ageing Properties
It rejuvenates dull, tired and ageing skin.
Antioxidants and nutrients help fight free radical damage that can cause skin tissue damage and lead to the formation of wrinkles.
Moringa oil helps improve the appearance of wrinkles and prevents sagging of facial muscles. Plant hormones called cytokinins, which help promote cell growth and delay damage and destruction of skin tissues. Vitamin C stabilises collagen and helps reduce fine lines and repair damaged skin cells.

Antiseptic and Anti-Inflammatory Properties
Moringa oil has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties and has been used to treat and heal minor skin abrasions; minor cuts and scrapes, bruises, burns, insect bites, rashes, and sunburn and skin infections.

Acne & Dark Spot Prevention
Moringa oil helps clear blackheads and pimples. When used regularly helps prevent the recurrence of blemishes.
Helps minimise dark spots from acne and hyperpigmentation.
Buying and using moringa oil for skincare


Purchase cold pressed Moringa oleifera, which has the most beneficial nutrients.

Monday, 7 November 2016

Avoiding Skin Allergies

Image result for avoiding skin allergies natural skincare productsMy work as a medical herbalist leads me to examine all facets of modern living and the gamut of symptoms emanating from this is quite extensive. One of the most challenging aspects of my clinical practice is treating or more pertinently, managing the wide range of skin complaints and disorders, many of which are simply an allergic response to some of the more commercial skincare products and toiletries in the mainstream market. 

Many already suffer from a skin problem such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, dry skin, urticaria, or contact dermatitis to name but a few. Allergies per se are also on the increase not all of which lead to skin manifestations of the kind just mentioned. However, I do see an increasing number of patients with skin allergies and skin sensitivities some of which are easily remedied when one examines the ingredients in their regular skincare products. On many occasions I have seen that a simple change such as switching to natural skincare products can have a profound impact with a dramatic improvement in symptoms. Almost always though, an examination of diet and lifestyle in conjunction with the skincare regimes yields the best long-term solution to perennial skin problems that have plagued my patients for most of their life.

Many of the commercial skincare products are mass produced and invariably based on synthetic by-products of the petrochemical industry which makes manufacturing cheap but also produces skincare products that are synthetic and artificial. These ingredients can often irritate the skin making it sensitive and can worsen existing skin conditions. Recent advances in technology and polymer science has broadened the range of ingredients that can now be added into commercial products, all purporting amazing skin benefits including the popular age-defying, anti-wrinkle and youth-promoting moisturisers. Many of the large perfume houses have been selling their own brands of skincare products on the back of their successful perfume labels. They are not always affordable and many will argue they are not always effective especially if you want something that works for your skin, that isn’t full of synthetic ingredients and isn’t likely to bring you out in a rash, or cause a flare-up of an existing skin problem.

Image result for skin allergies natural skincare productsThe natural skincare products market is a growing and booming industry; no industry shows this more clearly than the organic skincare sector. The Soil Association’s Organic Market Report revealed that UK sales of certified organic health and beauty products increased by 20% in 2014 to £44.6 million. Experts are predicting that the global organic cosmetics market will reach £10.1 billion by 2018. Global demand for organic skincare is at its highest in the USA, Japan and Europe but analysts are also predicting huge growth in India, China, Brazil and Mexico. The trend of natural and organic skincare has seen major developments in the last few years and the cosmetic brands are always in search of the new and exciting natural ingredients and extracts that can be added and marketed in order to keep up with the ever growing demand for natural skincare. This surely has added some pressure on the existing mainstream beauty lines that were not specialising in natural products before. The natural beauty trend is an amazing development that has not only positively revolutionised the beauty industry, but also fundamentally changed our beauty habits for the best.

The changes in lifestyle and the growing knowledge of the modern consumer have brought about more holistic lifestyle choices, including a more natural approach to skincare. Consumers are increasingly recognising that the ageing of the skin depends on the lifestyle, diet and what you put on your skin. So what exactly should we be wary of regarding potential triggers for allergy? Commercial products may contain the following:

Common Irritants/Possible Allergens
Reason for adding it to skincare products
SLS and SLES
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are detergents and surfactants used in 90% of personal-care products that foam. They can cause skin irritation and exacerbate an existing skin condition. A suitable alternative can be ammonium cocoyl isethionate, castile soap or soapwort.
Alcohol, isopropyl (SD-40)
A very drying and irritating solvent and dehydrator that strips your skin’s moisture and natural immune barrier. Made from propylene, a petroleum derivative and is found in many skin, haircare products, fragrances and antibacterial hand washes It can act as a carrier accelerating the penetration of other harmful chemicals into the skin. Potentially a skin irritant so avoid if at all possible. Alternatives include hydrogen peroxide, witch hazel, tea tree or neem oil.
DEA, MEA & TEA
Diethanolamine (DEA), monoethanolamine (MEA) and triethanolamine (TEA) are key examples of ethanolamines—a chemical group comprised of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) and alcohols. DEA is used as emulsifiers and foaming agents in shampoos, cleaners, and detergents. TEA is used as fragrance, pH adjuster and emulsifying agent. MEA along with the others are almost always in products that foam: bubble bath, body wash, shampoo, soap, facial cleanser. Have been linked to cancers and pure forms are banned in the EU. Combined with other compounds eg. cocoamide DEA is perfectly safe and non- irritating. Natural surfactants include castile soap, yucca extract, soapwort, quillaja bark extract but they may not compare in effectiveness. Safe, non-irritating natural emulsifiers and stabilisers derived from coconut oil are cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
Synthetic fragrances (often labelled as parfum) & synthetic colours
Fragrances are manufactured as a copy of the aromatic component of essential oils. Some could also be purely synthetic, not imitating anything found in nature. Can be very irritating to sensitive skins so avoid both if at all possible. Can try botanical extracts or even essential oils (organic versions) as they will be in their whole, natural form and not a synthetic version which may be using synthetic chemicals in the manufacturing process to which many are allergic to.
PEG (polyethylene glycol)
A chemical used to make things thicker or stickier but also used in cleansers to dissolve oil and grease. It is a stabiliser and performs functions similar to glycerine. It can penetrate the skin so can deliver other ingredients but can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis. Avoid if possible.
PG (propylene glycol) & butylene glycol
Gaseous hydrocarbons which in a liquid state act as surfactants (wetting agents and solvents). They easily penetrate the skin and can weaken the protein and cellular structure. Commonly used to make extracts from herbs. Alternatives could include water extracted herbs and therapeutic essential oils
Triclosan
Often used in antibacterial cleansers and toothpaste but the manufacturing process may produce dioxins (see below), a powerful hormone-disrupting chemical. Use essential oils (organic versions) with antibacterial properties such as tea tree oil, neem oil, thyme or rosemary if possible.
Phthalates
Simply labelled as ‘fragrances’ or used in nail polish, hair spray, and perfumes. They are plasticising chemicals often used in cosmetics but two of which (dibutyl and diethylhexyl) have been have been banned in the EU. Unfortunately fragrances are considered proprietary information so they are not required to be listed on the ingredients label. Cumulative effects can be irritating to the skin.
Dioxins
Existing in the food chain as environmental pollutants, dioxins have made their way into many skin care products. Because they are persistent compounds, they linger inside the body for long periods of time. Dioxins will not be listed on a label, but are often contained in antibacterial agents such as triclosan, PEGs and sodium laureth sulfate.
Formaldehyde
A highly effective preservative which can be added directly, or more often, be released from preservatives such as quaternium-15. These preservatives release small amounts of formaldehyde over time but can lead to sensitisation which means that the longer the product is used, the likelihood of developing a reaction to it. Natural preservatives include essential oils, neem oil, vitamin E, honey, rosemary extract, grapefruit seed extract, benzoin, sweet orange oil or potassium sorbate. See comments below though.
Aluminium-based ingredients
Some studies have linked aluminium to Alzheimer’s disease, though recent research has cast doubt on the connection. Other studies have indicated that aluminium may be linked to breast cancer and other brain disorders and in the form of powder, it is used in products such as antiperspirant deodorants. It can irritate the skin.
Toluene
Toluene is often used in glues, adhesives, chemical detergents, dyes, paint and paint thinners, plastics and many other industrial substances. Often labelled under benzene, methylbenzene, toluol and phenylmethane. Also found in nail polish or hair colouring products and can irritate the skin.
PABA (sunscreen)
Para-aminobenzoic acid or PABA is a chemical substance that is found in the folic acid vitamin and also in several foods including grains, eggs, milk, molasses, liver and kidney. PABA is also prepared industrially for use in sunscreen but can produce sensitivity resulting in classic allergic contact dermatitis as well as photocontact dermatitis. Safer alternatives include titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
Other known culprits of allergy:
·         Silicone-derived emollients
·         Disodium EDTA (and its salts)
·         Essential oils
·         Lanolin
·         Mineral oil
·         Nut oils

Fortunately, we are living though an age of choice where there is a wealth of natural alternatives. It is important that you read the label carefully and choose the most uncomplicated options avoiding known allergens if listed. Examine the sources of the ingredients as they may be from natural products even though they have to be processed in order to extract them. Examine the organic claim in equal measure as the non-organic culprits as residues of pesticides and herbicides in the latter could be the real issue and not the ingredient from the plant itself. 

There are very good reasons why mainstream, commercial formulations contain these ingredients. These can range from providing adequate foaming in shower gels (the nation loves bubbles!) to preventing the product from separating, limiting rancidity and conserving the integrity of the final product. As far as preservatives are concerned, this is a contentious issue. Unless products contain an effective preservative, the product is compromised causing it to degrade and worse still, encouraging the growth of potentially harmful bacteria and/or fungi. Contrary to what is widely perceived, parabens are safe and effective; the claims against them are unsubstantiated and not supported by the scientific community nor indeed cancer charities. However, in sensitive skins, they may cause irritations but this could be due to any of the ingredients in the product. Short of conducting a scientific experiment, attributing allergic properties to parabens is at best misleading. Phenoxyethanol is a popular, synthetic preservative and a paraben-free and propylene glycol-free alternative. It offers a universally highly effective broad-spectrum protection from gram positive and gram negative bacteria, fungi and yeast. Again, doses used in formulations (0.5-1.0%) are low so the potential for allergy should be low-risk, it is certified safe and non-toxic by the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Some of the so-called natural preservatives use synthetic chemicals in the extraction process and worse still, are combined with parabens to make them effective as tests conducted on pure natural preservatives  such as grapefruit seed extract show little or no antimicrobial effect. 

Ethical Dilemmas and Other Considerations
Many people switch to natural skincare products including organic versions in the belief that they are doing something good for the planet as well as their skin. This is laudable but do please examine and research the ingredients carefully – some products and ingredients are hard to source (can we really verify their authenticity and ethical business practices?), some ingredients are very difficult to extract, some need large quantities of raw material and some need to be highly processed if they are to be useful in the skincare industry. 

Image result for chemical ingredients in toiletriesThe harnessing of the highly desirable and natural active constituents from plants is painstakingly difficult, incredibly time-consuming and often very laborious. In reality therefore, all ingredients from plant-based and other natural sources require some degree of processing if they are to be useful and applicable for skincare products in addition to some degree of preservation if they are to last. The use of natural preservatives is controversial, not least of which is the notion of what constitutes ‘natural’. Just because it is natural, doesn’t mean it is safe. After all, arsenic is natural – not sure we would want to advocate its consumption!

Only 100% oil-based products can ideally get away with avoiding preservatives owing to the vitamin E content; this will offer the product some protection against rancidity as it is an antioxidant, however it may not always protect against bacterial or fungal growth. Preservatives are a vital ingredient in skincare products as otherwise, the product will quickly become rancid causing it to degrade; this can produce toxic compounds which can prove harmful to the skin. Moreover, we want to prevent the growth of undesirable bacteria and fungi which will inevitably prolong the shelf-life of the product.

Manufacturers of natural skincare products are not ideally fans of synthetic chemicals but the safety of any product is paramount and should not be compromised in the interests of being 100% ‘natural’, 100% ‘organic’ and 100% free of ‘chemicals’. The human body is full of organic chemicals and many brands play into our need for all things natural and combined with an unhealthy obsession with youth, the prices of some of these products are simply unjustified. It is safe to say that no product can be truly 100% natural given our lifestyles. Most skincare products will last between 6-12 months with preservatives (otherwise it will last between 2-3 weeks at best and only in a fridge!).

Remember, natural products can trigger allergies too – make no mistake. Those with sensitive skins and those prone to atopy (asthma, eczema and/or hay fever) need to be especially careful of plant-based products. It is important to consider the hormonal profile as certain life changes (eg. menopause, pregnancy) or even taking an over-the-counter medicine such as a painkiller can make the skin more sensitive than usual in some individuals. Also consider other factors as described below before ditching your regular skincare product:

  • Diet – by far the strongest culprit but by no means exclusive. Given the rise of so many synthetic food ingredients, not all of which can be sourced or controlled, our systems now have to navigate through a minefield of processes to keep us healthy. It is wholly unsurprising that many of us have some form of allergy or sensitivity (with gastrointestinal symptoms and skin manifestations amongst other problems)
  • Environment – household dust, pollution, radiation from digital devices all contribute to toxic overload in our systems and overburden the immune system which already works overtime to keep our systems in healthy working order simply by living in this modern world full of potential toxins. Inappropriate and/or excessive immune responses such as skin inflammation or flare ups can be a classic hallmark of immune burden rather than an allergic response to a skincare product to which it has been wrongly attributed.  
  • Other products such as fabric detergents or pets (to name but a few); these are notorious allergens for sensitive skins

If you are really concerned, a good way of finding out the culprit of any skin allergy/sensitivity before making any headlong decision to discard your regular skincare product is to conduct an elimination test. Collect together all suspects regarding skincare and avoid them one at a time and using the others as before. Then reintroduce the potential culprit and observe for any symptoms. When trying a new product, always do a patch test first on a part of the body that is not so visible (such as an arm or a leg) and avoid if your skin reacts to the product. Additionally, investigate the range of products that have the ‘free from’ label (and not just for skincare). These are products that have been formulated that avoid gluten, dairy and other known allergens (including some enzymes and GMO ingredients) which may trigger skin allergies.

Conclusion
You have the best knowledge of your own skin. Switch to natural alternatives as far as possible or better still, try making your own bespoke products which will work best for you. Adopting a more holistic approach to skincare should also include a wholescale review of diet and lifestyle, all of which should mitigate any risk of skin allergies or sensitivities. 

You can read the newsletter article here:  http://www.soapmakingmagazine.co.uk/blog/index.php/2016/11/28/avoiding-skin-allergies/

Sunday, 9 October 2016

What's all the buzz about?

Natural, healing and nutrient-rich, it's not surprising that honey is having a skincare moment
Image result for honey skincare manukaWith the trend for kitchen cupboard beauty continuing to grow, we're increasingly finding more uses for honey than spreading on our toast. The global skincare  market is tipping back in favour of natural ingredients, and a recent Mintel survey found that 76 per cent of consumers are interested in honey-based products. Meanwhile, some of healthy's favourite beauty brands, such as Dr Organic, Andalou, and Manuka Doctor (Kourtney Kardashian is its ambassador), use honey as an active ingredient.

It may be hot in the beauty industry right now, but its cosmetic use goes far back in time. 'The ancient Greeks and Egyptians used honey on skin conditions ranging  from wounds and acne, as well as for skin repair to combat ageing,' says Dr Firas Al-Niaimi, dermatologist and clinic director at skin.

Hive of activity
Natural honey is packed with skin-friendly nutrients, explains Dija Ayodele, facialist and founder of skincare range 3107. 'It's rich in B vitamins and micro minerals, such as copper, iron and calcium, which all play a part in keeping skin healthy and supporting the ageing process.' But hold back before slapping any old runny variety on your face: Ayodele highlights the importance of quality. 'Bog-standard honey goes through a cleaning process that generally removes the beauty benefits. Also, this honey is often watered down or sweetened, so it isn't as effective.'

Which type?
Raw honey is used in creams and salves to relieve dry, flaky skin conditions, like low-level eczema, dermatitis and dandruff, says Ayodele. 'It's a source of enzymes, proteins, antibiotics and natural hydroxy acids, such as gluconic acid, which acts as a mild exfoliant to slough away dead skin cells and brighten skin tone.'However, raw honey should never be used on open wounds, she adds. 'It's 100 per cent natural and, at its most potent, it can contain organisms that can be harmful to the skin and body.' That's why, for problems such as eczema and dermatitis where skin might have become broken, Ayodele recommends highest-grade active manuka (see below). Due to its antimicrobial quality, this honey is effective at calming the red and yellow spots associated with inflammatory acne, adds Dr Al-Niaimi.

Do grades matter?
You'll often see a unique manuka factor (UMF) on manuka honey  pots. This trademarked rating system from New Zealand relates to its bacteria-killing bioactive compounds. (Some brands use the rating non-peroxide activity - NPA - the lab term for UMF and graded the same way.) For skincare, the  higher the better, says Ayodele; aim for a rating of 12+ and above.

Sunday, 11 September 2016

Glycerine - Uses and Properties

Even though glycerine has been a staple in my stockroom for ages, it has remained one of those 'background ingredients'. But that all changed this year. These past few months, glycerine has made its way into a front and centre position due to a series of widespread blog posts on this topic. A bit of useful information on a key ingredient in natural skincare products.....

A glycerite is an extract made with herbs (flowers, or other substance) using glycerine as the main medium of extraction – a glycerine extract, if you will. That picture up there is a lemon glycerite being strained (and yes, it smells deliciously of fresh lemon). My recent glycerite how-to's have been so popular with you lovely readers that I have gotten all kinds of feedback and questions from you, so today we're going to take a closer look at glycerine.

Glycerine = Glycerol

Glycerine is also known as glycerol. It's a clear, viscous (read: thick-ish, syrup-y) liquid that is sweet to the taste, slightly sticky to the touch, and categorised as non-toxic.

Glycerine has multiple uses within the food, medical, and cosmetics industries. It has gazillions of applications. Yes, it's an exaggeration but it really is very widely used. As a barely-scratch-the-surface kind of list, you'll find glycerine as a component of:

  • vaccines
  • food syrups
  • e-cigarette liquid
  • anti-freeze
  • bio-diesel
  • medicine
  • sweets

and this list could go on for a very long time....

Glycerine Fun Fact 
Glycerine functions beautifully as a 'water-look-alike' in photography and film studios because it stays where it is put until the shot is done. (Now you know how they can 'capture' that perfect moment of dewy-freshness under a million hot lights that would make real water evaporate in seconds).

Both Animal and Vegetable
Glycerine can be made from both animal and vegetable sources. Vegetable glycerine is most often made from soy, palm or coconut. The non-plant-based version of glycerine is made from animal tallow.

Properties
In skin care products, glycerine functions as a humectant – drawing moisture to the skin when it comprises under a certain percentage of a formula. It is generally recommended to keep the total content of glycerine to under 10%.

Added at higher percentages, glycerine can do quite the opposite and draw moisture from the skin.

Dosage is everything when it comes to glycerine.

Another cool thing glycerine can do is function as a preservative, or aid to a preservative – and, again, dosage is pretty much the key.

Uses
A proven ingredient with a long history of use, glycerine is an ideal addition to creams, lotions, serums, tonics, face mists and other products where moisture-boosting is desired.

Soapy goodness: I'm sure you've tried (or at least heard of) glycerine soap, which is often recommended for sensitive skin types. Glycerine soap is easily recognisable because of its translucent quality.

Reference:
Taken from: http://www.lisaliseblog.com/2016/08/glycerine-uses-and-properties.html#more 

Tuesday, 2 August 2016

Banning Plastic Microbeads

The UK government now fully backs a legal ban on polluting plastic microbeads in cosmetics and toiletries, environment minister George Eustice said in June 2016. A ban across the EU could be passed as early as 2017, he said, to stop the tiny particles entering the seas and harming wildlife. Eustice argued in favour of a voluntary phase-out by the industry as recently as March, but said the issue had moved on after the US introduced a ban.

“We now support a ban on microbeads in cosmetics and are working with other EU countries
to get it on the agenda at a European level,” Eustice told MPs on the environment audit committee. “I think it is right to push ahead with a ban.” Eustice wants the UK to leave the EU in the forthcoming referendum but said he was representing the government in front of the committee and praised the benefits of EU action: “It is better to progress this at an EU level and get others to do the same.”

Microbeads are widely used in toiletries and cosmetics but thousands of tonnes wash into the sea every year, where they harm wildlife and can ultimately be eaten by people. A petition signed by more than 300,000 people asking for a ban was delivered to David Cameron last week.

Eustice said that if the EU did not go forward with a ban, the UK would introduce a national ban on the use of microbeads in manufacturing. But, if the UK remained in the EU, it would not be able to ban the sale of microbeads because the EU sets trade rules.

Last week, cosmetic trade bodies appeared before the same MPs and argued against a ban and in favour of a voluntary phase out in the EU by 2020. But the MPs attacked loopholes in the voluntary action and the lack of clear labelling that products contain plastic microbeads. Rebecca Pow MP asked Eustice on Tuesday if such labelling should be put in place now, as the ingredients lists are in tiny print. “You need an electron microscope to read the writing,” But Eustice said it would be quicker and more effective to put a ban in place.

“There is widespread support from EU member states,” said Eustice, naming the Netherlands, France, Belgium and Austria. “If things go well it is quite possible you could have a ban in place during  2017.” He added there would need to be a transitional period, with manufacturing of microbeads ending about 18 months after the law was passed and sales shortly after, meaning microbead products could continue to be sold for a time.

“I don’t think we are being too nice [to the industry] - we have moved quite quickly,” he said.
“Whenever you make a change in the law, you have to have transitional arrangements.” He said
he thought the costs to industry of such a ban “would not be that high”.

Jennifer Lonsdale, director of the Environmental Investigation Agency, said: “Flushing microbeads down the drain presents a major and unnecessary threat to marine biodiversity. We particularly welcome Eustice’s acceptance that the issue is too pressing to leave it to industry self-regulation at this stage.”

Daniel Steadman, from Fauna & Flora International, which produces The Good Scrub Guide, said: “It is vital that the ban avoids the loopholes around definitions and timescales that have limited the industry’s voluntary commitments. [This] will allow consumers to buy UK products safe in the knowledge that they are not polluting the environment.”

Louise Edge, from Greenpeace UK, also welcomed the move: “However it needs underlining that to really tackle this problem a ban needs to cover all consumer products that contain microbeads, not just personal care products.” Eustice said the initial ban would focus on cosmetics, but could be widened later to include their use in other products, like washing powders.

Microbeads are too small to be filtered effectively by sewage treatment plants and flow into the oceans. Plastic pollution in the oceans is a huge problem: 5tn pieces of plastic are floating in the world’s seas. Microbeads, also used in some toothpastes, are a small but significant part of this which both ministers and campaigners agree is the easiest to prevent.

Microbeads are eaten by marine life, which mistake them for food particles, and have been shown to kill fish before they reach reproductive age. The tiny beads can also attract toxins from seawater, which are then passed up the food chain. The beads are thought to be eaten by people consuming seafood and possibly breathed in too. Safe alternatives are already available, including ground nutshells and salt.

Eustice said the hazard posed by airborne microplastics was as yet unknown: “There are big evidence gaps. We don’t know for certain how big a problem this is and how big the health risk is.”

Reference: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/14/nmentbacksmicrobeadsbangeorgeeustice?
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