Common
Irritants/Possible Allergens
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Reason for adding
it to skincare products
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SLS and SLES
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Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
(SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are detergents and surfactants used
in 90% of personal-care products that foam. They can cause skin irritation
and exacerbate an existing skin condition. A suitable alternative can be
ammonium cocoyl isethionate, castile soap or soapwort.
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Alcohol, isopropyl (SD-40)
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A very drying and
irritating solvent and dehydrator that strips your skin’s moisture and
natural immune barrier. Made from propylene, a petroleum derivative and is
found in many skin, haircare products, fragrances and antibacterial hand
washes It can act as a carrier accelerating the penetration of other harmful
chemicals into the skin. Potentially a skin irritant so avoid if at all
possible. Alternatives include hydrogen peroxide, witch hazel, tea tree or
neem oil.
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DEA, MEA & TEA
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Diethanolamine (DEA),
monoethanolamine (MEA) and triethanolamine (TEA) are key examples of
ethanolamines—a chemical group comprised of amino acids (the building blocks
of proteins) and alcohols. DEA is used as emulsifiers and foaming agents in shampoos,
cleaners, and detergents. TEA is used as fragrance, pH adjuster and
emulsifying agent. MEA along with the others are almost always in products
that foam: bubble bath, body wash, shampoo, soap, facial cleanser. Have been
linked to cancers and pure forms are banned in the EU. Combined with other
compounds eg. cocoamide DEA is perfectly safe and non- irritating. Natural
surfactants include castile soap, yucca extract, soapwort, quillaja bark
extract but they may not compare in effectiveness. Safe, non-irritating natural
emulsifiers and stabilisers derived from coconut oil are cetearyl alcohol and
cetyl alcohol.
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Synthetic fragrances (often labelled as parfum) & synthetic colours
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Fragrances are manufactured
as a copy of the aromatic component of essential oils. Some could also be
purely synthetic, not imitating anything found in nature. Can be very
irritating to sensitive skins so avoid both if at all possible. Can try
botanical extracts or even essential oils (organic versions) as they will be
in their whole, natural form and not a synthetic version which may be using
synthetic chemicals in the manufacturing process to which many are allergic
to.
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PEG (polyethylene glycol)
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A chemical used to
make things thicker or stickier but also used in cleansers to dissolve oil
and grease. It is a stabiliser and performs functions similar to glycerine.
It can penetrate the skin so can deliver other ingredients but can cause skin
irritation and contact dermatitis. Avoid if possible.
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PG (propylene glycol) & butylene glycol
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Gaseous hydrocarbons
which in a liquid state act as surfactants (wetting agents and solvents).
They easily penetrate the skin and can weaken the protein and cellular
structure. Commonly used to make extracts from herbs. Alternatives could
include water extracted herbs and therapeutic essential oils
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Triclosan
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Often used in
antibacterial cleansers and toothpaste but the manufacturing process may
produce dioxins (see below), a powerful hormone-disrupting chemical. Use
essential oils (organic versions) with antibacterial properties such as tea
tree oil, neem oil, thyme or rosemary if possible.
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Phthalates
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Simply labelled as ‘fragrances’
or used in nail polish, hair spray, and perfumes. They are plasticising chemicals
often used in cosmetics but two of which (dibutyl and diethylhexyl) have been
have been banned in the EU. Unfortunately fragrances are considered
proprietary information so they are not required to be listed on the
ingredients label. Cumulative effects can be irritating to the skin.
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Dioxins
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Existing in the food
chain as environmental pollutants, dioxins have made their way into many skin
care products. Because they are persistent compounds, they linger inside the
body for long periods of time. Dioxins will not be listed on a label, but are
often contained in antibacterial agents such as triclosan, PEGs and sodium
laureth sulfate.
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Formaldehyde
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A highly effective
preservative which can be added directly, or more often, be released from
preservatives such as quaternium-15. These preservatives release small
amounts of formaldehyde over time but can lead to sensitisation which means
that the longer the product is used, the likelihood of developing a reaction
to it. Natural preservatives include essential oils, neem oil, vitamin E,
honey, rosemary extract, grapefruit seed extract, benzoin, sweet orange oil
or potassium sorbate. See comments below though.
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Aluminium-based ingredients
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Some studies have
linked aluminium to Alzheimer’s disease, though recent research has cast
doubt on the connection. Other studies have indicated that aluminium may be
linked to breast cancer and other brain disorders and in the form of powder, it
is used in products such as antiperspirant deodorants. It can irritate the
skin.
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Toluene
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Toluene is often
used in glues, adhesives, chemical detergents, dyes, paint and paint
thinners, plastics and many other industrial substances. Often labelled under
benzene, methylbenzene, toluol and phenylmethane. Also found in nail polish
or hair colouring products and can irritate the skin.
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PABA (sunscreen)
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Para-aminobenzoic
acid or PABA is a chemical substance that is found in the folic acid vitamin
and also in several foods including grains, eggs, milk, molasses, liver and
kidney. PABA is also prepared industrially for use in sunscreen but can
produce sensitivity resulting in classic allergic contact dermatitis as well
as photocontact dermatitis. Safer alternatives include titanium dioxide or
zinc oxide.
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Other known culprits of allergy:
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Silicone-derived emollients
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Disodium EDTA (and its salts)
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Essential oils
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Lanolin
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Mineral oil
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Nut oils
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