Clean cosmetics: The science behind the trend

Walking into the skin care aisle at the pharmacy, stepping up to a counter at a department store, or stopping by a cosmetics shop can be an overwhelming experience. Everywhere you look, you see products touting the ideal skin care ingredient. Who knew buying a moisturiser could be so difficult?


When exploring the vast world of beauty, skincare, and hygiene, there are so many labels and words you've probably heard you should look for on the packaging — and also ones you've heard you should avoid. Phrases like cruelty-free, organic, phthalates, natural, vegan, parabens, nontoxic, and non GMO are all over the place, but can get confusing. One word that's particularly vague is "clean." What exactly is clean makeup, and how important is it to buy clean products?

A basic definition of clean beauty is a product that is safe for human use, and does not include any toxic ingredients. The thing is, the meaning of words like clean, safe, and toxic are not easily defined. Not to mention, there aren't any regulations around the word clean, meaning a company can claim its products are clean, even if they are filled with ingredients that might be unsafe.

Lately, the coverage of “clean” cosmetics is everywhere — on national television and in best-selling books. It’s clear that clean is the newest beauty trend. But what is the clean cosmetics movement, and does the science support it?

Regulatory oversight of cosmetics: A brief history
The clean cosmetics movement seems to have arisen from frustration over regulatory oversight of cosmetics and personal care products (lotions, toothpastes, shampoos, etc). The FDA passed the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act back in 1938. Yet, ingredients used in cosmetics (with the exception of colour additives) are exempt from FDA regulatory practices. This includes the need for approval or product recall if an ingredient is found to be dangerous. Instead, most regulation of cosmetics comes from the Personal Care Products Council, which is a self-regulating body supported by the cosmetics industry.

Some took issue with this perceived conflict of interest. Activist groups, including the Environmental Working Group and the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, took matters into their own hands by classifying certain ingredients found in commercial cosmetic and personal care products as harmful and not suitable for topical use. Online and retail stores followed suit; some sell only clean products, while others have developed speciality lines of clean products.

Each proponent of this movement has developed their own short list of “bad” ingredients. The majority of these chemicals fall into one or more of three major categories: irritants or allergens; potential endocrine disruptors (substances that may imitate our body’s natural hormones and interfere with normal signalling of these chemical messengers); and potential carcinogens (cancer-causing agents).

Irritants and allergens
Commonly avoided in clean cosmetics: Methylisothiazolinone (MI), methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI), vitamin A derivatives, fragrance, phenoxyethanol, petroleum distillates, and formaldehydes.

What does the science say? MI/MCI, fragrance, and formaldehyde are known causes of contact dermatitis, a poison ivy-like rash that can become chronic with repeated topical exposure. In fact, all three have been named “Allergen of the Year” by the American Contact Dermatitis Society, due to their prevalence in commonly used products and frequent association with contact dermatitis.

Potential endocrine disruptors
Commonly avoided in clean cosmetics: Triclosan and triclocarban, toluene, resorcinol, petroleum distillates, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), boric acid and sodium borate, phthalates, placenta extract, parabens, and phenoxyethanol.

What does the science say? 
The jury is still out. Many of the studies showing a direct relationship between these compounds and hormonal dysregulation have been performed in animals rather than in humans, and at higher doses than people would typically be exposed to through a cosmetic or personal care product. Some human studies have related an increase in urinary or blood levels of these chemicals to endocrine disruption; however, it is difficult to interpret if or how individual measurements of these chemicals in bodily fluids relate to exposure from cosmetics or personal care products.

Potential carcinogens
Commonly avoided in clean cosmetics: 1,4-dioxane, formaldehydes, coal tar ingredients, petroleum distillates, and placenta extract.

What does the science say? 

Formaldehyde has been named by the National Cancer Institute as a potential carcinogen, and for good reason: it has been linked to cancer formation in both animals and humans at high doses. As if that isn’t enough reason to avoid this product, formaldehyde ranks among the top 10 most common contact allergens. Industrial use of coal tar products has been linked to cancer (for instance, in chimney sweeps); however, coal tar products have been used in dermatology topically, to treat psoriasis and eczema, for years without any increased rate of skin cancer or internal cancers. Petroleum distillates that are highly refined, like those in personal care products or cosmetics, do not appear to cause cancer. 1,4 dioxane has been linked to cancer in animals, while studies about placenta extract are lacking in both animals and humans.

The bottom line
The clean cosmetics movement definitely has us taking a closer look at what we put on our skin, which is a good thing. Scientific evidence appears to support avoiding at least a handful of ingredients that could be lurking in your personal care products, including MI/MCI, fragrance mix, and formaldehyde. Avoiding these ingredients is a good place to start, but you don’t need to toss out your whole makeup bag quite yet: more studies are needed to back up associations between low-dose topical exposure to many of these chemicals and human health.

Because the demand for cleaner, more natural beauty products has risen over the last few years, There are plenty of brands labelling their products as clean, natural, or non-toxic with little evidence to support those claims. 

Find brands you trust
Since every "clean" brand has different requirements, it can be helpful to do your research, and find a few brands whose regulations you agree with. That way, you can have a go-to source to use as a starting point when you need a new product.

Look up any unrecognisable ingredients
If you're in the market for a new product, but want to make sure it is safe, look up and research every ingredient on the label.

Make your own products
Buying all-natural ingredients and making things like makeup, lotion, bars of soap, and household cleaning products isn't as hard as it seems! The internet is full of easy-to-follow recipes, and making products from scratch will mean you know exactly what you're putting on your body.

In summary, a "clean" product is one that claims to be made up of safe, non-toxic, and natural ingredients. Whether or not the product is actually safe for your body is up to you to decide. If you only want to use products that meet your personal safety standards, you'll have to take some time to do the research. Your body will thank you.

Can natural skincare be zero waste?

The zero waste movement encompasses minimising the amount of waste we produce in general. Living a waste-free lifestyle is theoretically possible. In practice, it is easier said than done.

A zero waste lifestyle has picked up the pace in the last few years. More and more people are coming to realise the effect that their contribution to waste has on the environment. The concept is based on 5 main principles, also referred to as the 5R's:

1. Refuse: This principle entails the conscious refusal of waste such as unnecessary packaging. In a broader spectrum, the principle is aimed towards reducing what we consume in general. The less we consume (or refuse), the less is produced that needs to be disposed of at a later stage.
2. Reduce: Reducing what we consume and living a more minimalistic lifestyle is what one should be looking to aim at. How many pieces of clothing do we own that we have not worn in years, or ever? Resources were used for the production that went into the countless, unnecessary items that we own. Reducing what we own or do not require can easily be sold or donated to those that may find use in it.
3. Reuse: In the last few years, the production of products that can only be used once-off has reached a peak. Such items are only beneficial for one party, and that is the producers, as these items require the consumer to repurchase the item when needed. More and more throwaway products are being produced than items being repaired.
4. Recycle: Products and items that are left over after having exercised the first three principles, should definitely, be taken to a recycling branch. This also helps to save resources.
5. Rot (Composting): This entails the composting any produce that is not being consumed to use as high-quality manure.

Is natural cosmetics better for the environment?
The 5R's can also be used when it comes to cosmetics. The cosmetics' market produces mountains of plastic waste on an annual basis, but also the individual ingredients used plays an important role. Natural cosmetics do not contain any ingredients that may have adverse effects on the environment such as microplastics.

Microplastics
Microplastics are small plastic particles that are found in countless conventional cosmetic products such as scrubs and toothpaste, whereby many of these particles contain plasticisers and phthalates which can be hormonally active or even toxic. These tiny particles are set free in the environment via our drainage systems. Furthermore, environmental toxins accumulate on the surface of microplastics.

Today, the number of microplastic has increased to such a degree that they are now apparent in our food chain and, in some cases, our drinking water. This can only be put to an end when we refuse using products that contain them.

Plastic packaging - Alternatives?
Many natural cosmetic brands have started to avoid or use alternative, biodegradable packaging. There are also several natural cosmetics products on the market today that do not come wrapped up in packaging at all. Luckily, this trend is becoming increasingly more popular. At Ecco Verde, we offer a range of raw materials that can be used for homemade cosmetics and help minimise plastic waste. This concept has several benefits:

• you save on unnecessary packaging
• you create the cosmetics that suit your needs
• it's fun!

It's safe to say we've never been more aware of the impact our lifestyles are having on the environment than we are now. Consequently, the idea of living a zero-waste lifestyle is something we're hearing bandied about the internet more and more. It's a radical concept that in it's most potent iteration will see you padlock your bin shut and vow never to throw anything away again.

It's also great for the planet. Why wouldn't you want to be apart of it?" Her enthusiasm is palpable and got us thinking: Considering the beauty industry plays its fair part in filling the nation's landfills, how can we be a little more responsible with our beauty regimens?

Even if a fully zero-waste lifestyle isn’t for you, keep scrolling for five simple swaps you can make to help reduce the environmental impact of your beauty regimen. Trust us—you won’t even notice anything different from your regular routine.

The easiest place to start when it comes to reducing your environmental impact is to buy from brands that use recycled and recyclable packaging. These aren't always easy to find, but as a rule of thumb, avoid plastics. Every piece of plastic ever created still exists. Plastic doesn't biodegrade; it photodegrades, which means it gets smaller and smaller and smaller. Ninety-four per cent of all water samples in the U.S., both bottled and tap, contain micro-plastic. We're drinking plastic.

That being said, glass jars are a good alternative, as they can either be recycled or repurposed into something else. And you'd be surprised—many products now have zero-waste packaging such as Earth-friendly glass packaging or 100% recycled glass. The movement toward a zero-waste lifestyle is really a no-brainer. It just makes sense and puts the power back into the hands of the consumer. We can make such an impact on our daily choices and purchases and living a zero waste life is easy, fun, and saves tons of money!

Switch to Reusable Cotton Pads
If you're a cotton pad user, it's likely you get through a good wedge of them every single day, taking your makeup off, applying toner and the like. They may be light, but they place a pretty massive weight on the country's landfill sites. Instead, arm yourself with a pack of reusable cotton rounds that you can simply throw in the wash once you've used it. And because they're a bit sturdier than their throwaway equivalents, they are much better equipped to peel every last scrap of makeup from the face—even mascara.

Then there are  those pesky face wipes which not only have questionable consequences for the complexion, but they can also take hundreds of years break down in landfill. Made from the Asian konjac plant, konjac sponges can be composted once their month-long lifespan comes to an end, and they're much more effective at trapping dirt and sebum from the skin's surface and lifting it away, so your face will reap the benefits too. Aptly named The Konjac Sponge Company, its range of sponges with added skincare benefits are particularly robust.

Going Zero Waste
It's pretty straightforward: Ditching the plastic bottles of traditional shampoo in favour of a packaging-free version has got to be advantageous for the environment. Thankfully, you needn't scrimp on hair-boosting formulas either. Many natural skincare companies now sell solid shampoo bars which come infused with ingredients that offer any and every hair benefit you could want—from root-lifting to shine-inducing, curl-defining to moisture-giving.

The concept of zero waste goes way beyond skincare packaging – it’s part of a wider philosophy on how a skincare brand manages the environmental footprint of its business. A zero waste beauty brand should run their entire operation to zero waste principles – that means their formulation lab, their manufacturing processes, their administration, their shipping warehouses, everything. If you want to buy from a truly zero waste beauty brand, look at the credentials on their website: do they talk about their carbon footprint, their environmental impact and how they manage their company’s waste management processes? We can use wind or solar energy, carbon offsets for carbon dioxide emissions, go digital with record-keeping, recycle, reuse, and reduce waste in virtually every area of the business. It is difficult to achieve but zero waste can be possible for the natural skincare and cosmetics industry.

Sustainable Skincare

It is difficult to open any magazine, newspaper or online publications without reading something about the pressing concerns surrounding climate change (or more accurately according to some media outlets, climate crisis). It is without doubt, there is a real threat of such devastating impacts on natural habitats and wildlife.  Being close to the benefits of harnessing plant ingredients, perhaps botanical and natural skincare manufacturers and formulators have faced these threats and confronted the problems much sooner than most. This has perhaps given the industry the much-needed time to consider the way ahead and to implement strategies to mitigate the potential loss of natural ingredients that appear to be increasing in number by the day.

With the rising popularity of natural skincare and plant-based products, the demand has never been greater. However, with this comes a concern for the environment although other industries should share the burden of being a responsible manufacturer given than 1 in 5 plant species are at risk of extinction. The three biggest factors threatening plant species are:

• deforestation of habitats (31%)
• deforestation of timber (21%)
• construction of buildings and infrastructure (13%)

It is, after all in the interests of these companies to be mindful of ensuring sustainability and protecting our most valuable ecosystems so that we can continue to enjoy Earth’s bounty for many more years to come. So how can we ensure this?

Read the full article here: http://www.soapmakingmagazine.co.uk/blog/index.php/2019/07/11/sustainable-skincare/?fbclid=IwAR3OyLyoSDTy8Ps6Xbje-HIylSd08tYCszGc4tkd0wagURo9apf49bTncj8

The History of Soap

In the world of personal hygiene, getting clean is big business. From shower gels to cleansing bars and from face washes to body scrubs to name but a few. But what about our old faithful: the humble bar of soap? It seems to be enjoying a bit of resurgence not only in the personal hygiene products market but also in the eco-friendly products market. The latter is mainly because traditional soap does not involve unnecessary packaging or bottling, least of all in the use of plastic such as liquid soaps, and being biodegradable, waste is not a problem. This sits well with many consumers worried about plastic pollution and excessive production of non-recyclable waste. Moreover, the seemingly endless varieties on a tried and tested basic soap formula provide much choice to consumers. So how and where did it all start for soap?

Read the full article here: http://www.soapmakingmagazine.co.uk/blog/index.php/2019/01/23/the-history-of-soap/

Alternatives to Palm Oil

With current concerns about the use of palm oil and the consequences on the wildlife, there are a number of campaigns that have been promoted to examine the use of palm oil. So what could we use instead by way of alternatives to such a valuable ingredient from foods to the cosmetics and skincare industries?



It is important here to mention the difference between Palm oil and Palm kernel oil. Both come from the palm oil tree, palm oil is pressed from the fruit and palm kernel oil is extracted from the seed. Both can be used in soap making and offer different qualities in a finished product.

Palm kernel oil  is used to make a white coloured, harder bar of soap that provides a fluffy, bubbly lather. This oil is in a solid state at room temperature, which contributes to the hardness of a soap bar.

Palm Kernel alternatives:
Two good choices for alternatives are coconut oil and babassu oil. Palm kernel oil is actually chemically more similar to coconut oil than palm oil, which is probably why many soap manufacturers use both ingredients as both give different properties. Babassu oil on the other hand is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the babassu palm and is indigenous to Brazil.


Palm Oil
Palm oil is used to create a hard soap bar with a stable lather, and is often used to make something more long-lasting and resistant to melting. Using palm oil in  soap will provide a moderate amount of cleansing and conditioning properties. This oil is solid only at cooler temperatures, and is sometimes used as a formula stabiliser in cosmetics. Palm oil is also used in candle making and a key ingredient in soap making because of its excellent lathering and hardening properties. However, in recent years palm oil has gained a bad reputation due to its questionable sustainability.

Palm Oil alternatives:
Some say there is no ‘perfect’ alternative to Palm oil in soap making because of its exceptional results but as always, it is down to product development and personal preferences. When searching for a replacement, we need to take these properties in to account as well as cost and of course, sustainability.

Below are some of the most widely used and acceptable substitutes to palm and why:

• Shea Butter
• Cocoa Butter
• Animal Tallow

Shea Butter
Possibly one of the best alternatives and a favourite amongst those manufacturers concerned about our environment and sustainability. Also known as Karite butter, Shea Butter is made from the nuts of Karite nut trees that grow in the Savannah regions of West and Central Africa. It has the following properties that make it idea for soap making:

• Oil type – Hard (same category as Palm)
• High in oleic acid – conditioning and lathering properties similar to that of palm
• Excellent moisturising properties
• Softens skin
• Palmitic acid present to contribute towards soap ‘hardness’
• Organic variation available

Cocoa Butter
This is a vegetable fat which has a fantastic chocolate-y aroma. It is extracted from the cocoa bean and is also very popular in cooking as well as soap making. All the following factors mean it is a close second to palm oil in soap making.

• Oil type – Hard
• Provides moisture- good for eczema, dermatitis, stretch marks
• High in antioxidants
• Stable even levels of palmitic, stearic & oleic acids- gives hardness, a creamy lather & good conditioning.

Animal Tallow
The traditional roots were such that before palm oil, fatty oils such as beef tallow (fat from rendered beef) or lard were used, mainly due to their large availability being an animal by-product. Most historic soap recipes would usually call for tallow or lard because of their properties, which are listed below. This may not be a great alternative for everybody, because vegan products are now also talking over in popularity from animal products.

• Oil type – Tallow and Lard are both hard oils (same category as Palm)
• Not vegetarian/vegan friendly…
• However, it’s making good use of animal by-product
• Inexpensive
• Excellent creamy lathering qualities
• Traditionally used to create a hard bar of soap (Similar to reasons for using palm)

About Palm oil and ‘RSPO’
The RSPO - The Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) is a global, multi-stakeholder initiative on sustainable palm oil. Members of RSPO, and participants in its activities come from many different backgrounds, including plantation companies, processors and traders, consumer goods manufacturers and retailers of palm oil products, financial institutions, environmental NGOs and social NGOs, from many countries that produce or use palm oil. The RSPO vision is to “transform the markets by making sustainable palm oil the norm". If it’s grown sustainably, palm oil production can benefit local communities, and help to protect valuable species and forests. By using sustainable practices, farmers can increase their income by making more palm oil from less land”

Why is this important?
The palm oil supply chain, from the tropics to its use as an ingredient in retail products all over the world, is complex. It can be hard to know exactly where the palm oil in the final product has come from. To ensure the credibility of the sustainability claim at the end of the supply chain, all organisations that take legal ownership and physically handle RSPO certified sustainable oil palm products need to be supply chain certified. Transparency and credibility are assured through RSPO Supply Chain Certification and RSPO Principles and Criteria Certification.


It is also worth noting, as this is a ‘hot’ topic at the moment, that as humans in general we are using the earth’s resources to the point of destruction, if it’s not Palm oil plantations, then it’s soya or Shea. By boycotting one product, this will naturally put more pressure to produce larger amounts of another, so we should really be looking at how we can use highly renewable and sustainable products as we move into the future and start caring for our planet so the next generation (humans and animals alike) will still have a home.