With the recent explosion of skin improving oils, there appears to be a lot of misconceptions about serums and oils which warrants some clarification. Many people believe that oils are serums, and many companies even lay claims to the fact that their oils “apply like serums”. While similar application and feel may be true in certain instances, there are very distinct differences between the two product types.
Serums vs. Oils
Both products (serums and oils) have amazing benefits for the skin.They are both a fabulous way to nourish your skin and achieve certain skincare goals, however, their formulations (and how they apply) are very distinct from one another.
Serums
One may wonder, exactly what classifies a product as a “serum”. A serum is essentially a water-based formula that delivers a potent (and typically powerful) blend of ingredients that will penetrate your skin. Generally speaking, serums tend to be lightweight as well. There are so many serum options out there, some that are general, and some that are targeted to fight a specific skincare concern. A useful tip if you are looking to treat acne; reach for a serum that contains ingredients such as salicylic acid and willow bark extract. If hyperpigmentation is an issue, try vitamin C, bearberry, mulberry, or licorice root extract-enhanced products. If you are going more for an anti-ageing effect, try a serum infused with peptides, glycolic acid, or ferulic acid. Whatever the concern, a serum is highly recommended in your daily regimen for faster, longer-lasting, more powerful results.
Oils
An oil on the other hand is essentially, well...an oil! Many “oils” have extra added ingredients, which is fine (if those ingredients are beneficial, as opposed to additional fillers or fragrances which is best avoided). As [previously mentioned, many brands are marketing their oils to be “like serums”, and truth be told, it is incredibly hard to distinguish some products as either one or the other given their cross-over appeal. However, the oil base does make them naturally heavier, which means this property needs to be considered if it is to be applied along with other products. Since oils are emollients, they interfere with concentrated ingredients trying to reach the skin. Unlike serums which are water-based, thus delivering the concentrated ingredients directly into the skin.
So, when do you apply your serum and/or oil? The typical rule of thumb for product application is lighter products first. And by light, this means the actual formulation, not colour. Since serums are water-based, it is typically best to apply them directly after cleansing or better yet exfoliating. This allows for the best absorption of your serum, meaning faster results. Many people also apply their serum after they use a toner; this is perfectly acceptable.
Many people apply their oils last, and it really depends on the circumstances. On a typical day, many only utilise the facial oil in the evening. Some apply it following the serum application once it has dried and it may feel as though it helps to lock in all of the fabulous benefits of both. If using my oil during the day, choose a no-makeup day and go without the serum. Of course, this is very much a personal preference. However, it is important to wear SPF (sun protection factor) during the day. SPF is essential during the day so many therefore prefer to use the facial oil at night as adding the SPF can feel rather heavy on the skin.
Serum vs Oil: Which is Better for your Skin Type?
The lines of skincare can easily become blurred, especially when new products are constantly being developed to fill unknown ‘gaps’ in your routine. Two products that often get confused and misused are serums and oils, so here is how to choose the best one for your skin and its needs.
Serum
What does it do? A serum is a concentrated cocktail of actives housed within a water-based fluid that is lightweight and incredibly easy for the skin to absorb. This blend of active ingredients is designed to offer everything from intense hydration to depigmentation benefits where it really counts – within the lower layers.
How does it do this? Serums are able to penetrate down to the lower layers of the skin due to their small molecular size. This means that they sink in quickly, passing through the surface to the dermis where collagen production and skin correction can take place. Potent actives also tend to be water-soluble, so they can be delivered more effectively in a serum-like formulation than something heavier or thicker in texture such as a cream, which mainly sits on the surface of the skin.
How does it feel? Serums generally feel pretty weightless on the skin. Some may provide a slight sheen or initial greasiness when applied but this isn’t very common. Thicker serums will feel more gel like in consistency while lighter serums will feel more like water or be very runny so it is important that they are dispensed directly onto the face – don’t bother applying a serum to your hands first as they will absorb all the benefits before you even touch your face.
Who is it for? The beauty of serums is that they can work for everyone and all skin types can derive some sort of benefit from using them regularly, especially oily, dehydrated and sensitive skins. Serums are the best product to provide the skin with antioxidant protection and as they sit comfortably underneath creams and lotions, are easy to include in any routine.
Oil
What does it do? An oil is a nourishing, balancing and comforting blend of natural extracts, essential oils and botanicals designed to not only plump the skin but to also add a radiant glow and a softer texture that is hard to achieve with other topical formulas.
How does it do this? Facial oils are made up of natural oils extracted from plants and seeds often with the addition of a lipid-soluble active ingredient here and there such as Vitamins C and E. Due to their thicker texture and combination of molecular sizes, oils provide both surface and below surface benefits although many don’t travel as deeply into the skin as a serum.
How does it feel? As you would expect, an oil feels a little greasy at first but they tend to have a more luxurious texture than a serum so the skin will still feel the comforting effects many minutes after application. When pushed or pressed onto the face, the skin becomes supple and plump, which is a great way to both prep the skin for make-up and infuse it with nutrients before bedtime.
Who is it for? Again, there is a facial oil for everyone but mature, dry, ageing and unbalanced skin types tend to benefit the most from their richer and more plant-based formula. Oily complexions can derive many sebum-reducing benefits and those with dull or lacklustre skin will enjoy the serious radiance boost an oil gives. Oils can also be used more sporadically and still give results, so if daily application feels like too much, apply them every other day instead.