Liquid Soap vs Solid Soap

For a long time, when it came to personal cleanliness, there was only one frontline fighter: bar soap. Of course, bar soap came in many guises -- square bars and rounded bars, scented and unscented, clear and opaque but its essential look and function went unchanged for hundreds of years. Then other cleansers -- both soap and non-soap formulas -- began to appear. Bar cleansers were joined by liquid products, which were first used primarily for hand washing. The market eventually became flooded with shower gels, also known as body washes, which quickly became a popular alternative to bar soap.

If you've spent any time in the skin care aisle at your local store, you know that figuring out which products to buy, soap and non-soap cleansers included, can be a very time-consuming task. So which is better -- bar soap or liquid soap? You might be relieved to know that at a very basic level there is no real difference between the two. All types of true soap are composed of the same essential components -- alkali salts of fatty acids and detergent properties. The detergent in soap, which is called a surfactant, allows oil and dirt to mix with and be washed away by water.

Like so many health and beauty products, there are advantages and disadvantages to both bar soap and liquid soap. One of the main complaints about bar soap is that it washes away more than just dirt. Harsh bar soaps can deplete your skin of the moisture it needs to stay healthy. Liquid soaps, on the other hand, often contain moisturisers, but they're also more likely to have fragrances and other additives that can make sensitive skin crawl.

If you're thrifty, you may find that bar soap is friendlier to your pocketbook than liquid soap. However, if you're not too fond of the slimy mess bar soap can leave in your soap dish, you might think liquid soap is worth the extra cost.

Over the last few years, a debate has flared up over which is better: stalwart bar soap or showy shower gel. Before you choose sides, keep reading to learn more about the main contenders.

Pros and Cons of Bar Soap
Bar soap has been around longer than liquid, but it often gets the short end of the stick when compared with its supposedly more glamorous cousin.

One claim against bar soaps is the bacteria factor. Because people sometimes share the same bar of soap, fears concerning the transfer of bacteria have emerged. However, studies have shown that although bacteria levels on previously-used bar soaps are slightly higher than on unused soaps, there have been no detectable levels of bacteria left on the skin's surface after using the soap. Bar soap users who are still worried about spreading germs can always make sure that each person has his or her own soap.

Another con of bar soaps is the fact that many have a higher pH level than liquid soaps. Because of this, some bar soaps can be more drying to the skin. Dried-out skin is not only uncomfortable but also heals more slowly when injured. What most liquid soap enthusiasts fail to take into account is that there are many different soaps on the market that have low or neutral pH levels, which are less drying.

Bar soap enthusiasts are quick to point out that most bar soaps contain glycerine, which is good for people with dermatological problems like eczema. It can even help people who just have dry skin. Also, for people who are allergic to fragrances, bar soaps can be the most convenient option; there are many bar soaps on the market that are fragrance-free. Fragrance-free liquid soaps, on the other hand, are a little harder to find.

So, are you convinced to return to bar soap? Not so fast -- the next page has some compelling liquid soap facts that might change your mind.

Pros and Cons of Liquid Soap
As with bar soaps, there are also pros and cons to using liquid soaps. One strike against liquid soap is waste. With bar soaps, it's fairly easy to know when you have acquired enough on your washcloth or loofah to get the job done. Because liquid soaps usually come in pump-action or easy-to-squeeze bottles, overuse is common. Factor in the higher cost for liquid soaps, and you end up with a lot of waste that you don't typically get with bar soaps.

If you're a body wash enthusiast, though, don't give up hope. There are some pros to using liquid soaps. Unlike their bar-shaped counterparts, you never get that mushy pile of soap scum that often occurs when bar soap is left in standing water, although you can mitigate that problem with different soap saver products on the market. And while it's easy to lose bar soap down the drain, you're less likely to lose a bottle of liquid soap. In addition, liquid soap tends to create a richer lather, which many people prefer over thinner bar soap lathers.

Strong bar soaps, especially those designed to act as deodorants, can be too harsh for some people, stripping away important oils and leaving the skin irritated. Many liquid soaps and body washes contain moisturisers, however, and they tend to be milder than bar soaps. Women can benefit most from liquid soaps containing moisturisers - their skin is typically more sensitive than men's, and using a deodorant bar soap can leave dry spots and cause itchiness.

The bottom line is that using liquid soap or bar soap is a personal choice. More than the method of delivery, the most important thing for you to be aware of is how you react to certain additives, such as fragrances and moisturisers. Whichever one you choose, note that the U.S. Food and Drug Administration ruled in 2016 that the benefits of using antibacterial soap haven't been proven and that the antibacterial active ingredients triclosan and triclocarban also have not been proven to be safe for daily use.

References:

1. American Academy of Dermatology. "Moisturizing and Cleansing Key to Treating Atopic Dermatitis." (Sept. 2, 2009) http://www.skincarephysicians.com/eczemanet/moisturizing_cleansing.html
2. Baranda, Lourdes, Roberto Gonzalez-Amaro, Bertha Torres-Alvarez, Carmen Alvarez and Victoria Ramirez. "Correlation between pH and irritant effect of cleansers marketed for dry skin." International Journal of Dermatology. (Sept. 2, 2009) http://pt.wkhealth.com/pt/re/ijdm/abstract.00004342-200208000-00007.htm;jsessionid=KfRbrY6MCLSLNQTcVLn4CLMzXsM0v2ThGYpKmyXmLDK2jjBP28x6!224925659!181195629!8091!-1
3. Bartels, Eric. "Liquid soap vs. bar soap." Portland Tribune. (Sept. 2, 2009) http://www.portlandtribune.com/sustainable/print_story.php?story_id=120793661306810000
4. Bruno, Karen. "Women's Skin Care for a Soft Body." WebMD. (Sept. 2, 2009) http://www.webmd.com/skin-beauty/advances-skin-care-9/moisturizer-toning-cream
5. Cosmetics Info. "Soap." (Sept. 2, 2009) http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/product_details.php?product_id=36
6. Ivory. "Pure Fun: History." (Sept. 2, 2009) http://www.ivory.com/PureFun_History.htm
7. Heinze, J. and F. Yackovich. "Washing with contaminated bar soap is unlikely to transfer bacteria." Dial Technical Center. August 1988. (Sept. 2, 2009) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3402545
8. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. "Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?)" (Sept. 2, 2009) http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/ucm074201.htm
9. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. "Antibacterial Soap? You Can Skip It -- Use Plain Soap and Water." Sept. 2, 2016. (July 26, 2017) https://www.fda.gov/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/ucm378393.htm

Soap Bar or Liquid Soap?

Soap and shower gels are both designed to cleanse the skin, but more often than not that’s where their similarities end. For a long time though, when it came to personal cleanliness, there was only one frontline fighter: bar soap. Of course, bar soap came in many guises - square bars and rounded bars, scented and unscented, clear and opaque -- but its essential look and function went unchanged for hundreds of years. Then other cleansers, both soap and non-soap formulas began to appear. Bar cleansers were joined by liquid products, which were first used primarily for hand washing. The market eventually became flooded with shower gels, also known as body washes, which quickly became a popular alternative to bar soap.

If you've spent any time in the skin care aisle at your local store, you know that figuring out which products to buy, soap and non-soap cleansers included, can be a very time-consuming task. So which is better - bar soap or liquid soap? You might be relieved to know that at a very basic level there is no real difference between the two. All types of true soap are composed of the same essential components -- alkali salts of fatty acids and detergent properties. The detergent in soap, which is called a surfactant, allows oil and dirt to mix with and be washed away by water.

Pros and Cons of Bar Soap
Like so many health and beauty products, there are advantages and disadvantages to both bar soap and liquid soap. One of the main complaints about bar soap is that it washes away more than just dirt. Harsh bar soaps can deplete your skin of the moisture it needs to stay healthy. Liquid soaps, on the other hand, often contain moisturisers, but they're also more likely to have fragrances and other additives that may not be the most suitable for sensitive skins.

Bar soap has been around longer than liquid, but it often gets the short end of the stick when compared with its supposedly more glamorous cousin. One claim against bar soaps is the bacteria factor. Because people sometimes share the same bar of soap, fears concerning the transfer of bacteria have emerged. However, studies have shown that although bacteria levels on previously-used bar soaps are slightly higher than on unused soaps, there have been no detectable levels of bacteria left on the skin's surface after using the soap . 

Washing with contaminated bar soap is unlikely to transfer bacteria
Recent reports of the isolation of microorganisms from used soap bars have raised the concern that bacteria may be transferred from contaminated soap bars during handwashing. Since only one study addressing this question has been published, an additional procedure was developed to test this concern. In our new method pre-washed and softened commercial deodorant soap bars were used. Sixteen panelists were instructed to wash with the inoculated bars using their normal handwashing procedure. After washing, none of the 16 panelists had detectable levels of either test bacterium on their hands.

Thus, the results obtained using our new method were in complete agreement with those obtained with the previously published method even though the two methods differ in a number of procedural aspects. These findings, along with other published reports, show that there is little risk or danger of infection in routine handwashing with previously used soap bars and support the frequent use of soap and water for handwashing to prevent the spread of disease. Bar soap users who are still worried about spreading germs can always make sure that each person has his or her own soap.

Another con of bar soaps is the fact that many have a higher pH level than liquid soaps. Because of this, some bar soaps can be more drying to the skin. Dried-out skin is not only uncomfortable but also heals more slowly when injured. What most liquid soap enthusiasts fail to take into account is that there are many different soaps on the market that have low or neutral pH levels, which are less drying.

Bar soap enthusiasts are quick to point out that most bar soaps contain glycerine, which is good for people with dermatological problems like eczema. It can even help people who just have dry skin. Also, for people who are allergic to fragrances, bar soaps can be the most convenient option; there are many bar soaps on the market that are fragrance-free. Fragrance-free liquid soaps, on the other hand, are a little harder to find.

Pros and Cons of Liquid Soap
As with bar soaps, there are also pros and cons to using liquid soaps. One strike against liquid soap is waste. With bar soaps, it's fairly easy to know when you have acquired enough on your washcloth or loofah to get the job done. Because liquid soaps usually come in pump-action or easy-to-squeeze bottles, overuse is common. Factor in the higher cost for liquid soaps, and you end up with a lot of waste that you don't typically get with bar soaps.

If you're a body wash enthusiast, though, don't give up hope. There are some pros to using liquid soaps. Unlike their bar-shaped counterparts, you never get that mushy pile of soap scum that often occurs when bar soap is left in standing water, although you can mitigate that problem with different soap saver products on the market. And while it's easy to lose bar soap down the drain, you're less likely to lose a bottle of liquid soap. In addition, liquid soap tends to create a richer lather, which many people prefer over thinner bar soap lathers.

Strong bar soaps, especially those designed to act as deodorants, can be too harsh for some people, stripping away important oils and leaving the skin irritated. Many liquid soaps and body washes contain moisturisers, however, and they tend to be milder than bar soaps. Women can benefit most from liquid soaps containing moisturisers - their skin is typically more sensitive than men's, and using a deodorant bar soap can leave dry spots and cause itchiness.

The bottom line is that using liquid soap or bar soap is a personal choice. More than the method of delivery, the most important thing for you to be aware of is how you react to certain additives, such as fragrances and moisturisers. Whichever one you choose, note that the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) ruled in 2016 that the benefits of using antibacterial soap haven't been proven and that the antibacterial active ingredients triclosan and triclocarban also have not been proven to be safe for daily use.

The benefits of shower and body oils

Not to diminish the benefits of a good 'ol body lotion, but it may be time to switch to something more substantial and more fluid... like a body oil.

Oils have a locking and protective nature as they improve cell cohesion, meaning that they can limit transepidermal water loss. While lotions and creams can also provide moisture, a change of formula might be exactly what the skin needs. The skin's ability to retain moisture becomes compromised with time, so despite liberal application of a rich moisturiser, the skin can still feel dry.A good beauty oil is formulated to seal in moisture and humectants which may limit any feeling of dryness.

Despite their name, body oils are non-greasy, lightweight and incredibly hydrating. As a bonus, the scented versions leave your skin gently perfumed.There are many choices on the market for body oils which gives variety to the experience depending on skin type and fragrance preference. For example, the properties of rose oil extends not only to its superb healing factors, but also to its hypnotic fragrance. Needless to say, many user do not use this oil for healing purposes, but it never fails to lift the mood.

For another take on florals, there are many lavender-scented body oils. Safflower, macadamia and jojoba oils soften, while chamomile adds radiance. Many brands also many complementary massage oils to go with their body oils which can extend and heighten the fragrant experience not to mention soothing both the skin and the senses.

Essential oils are made up of very small molecules, making them able to penetrate into our blood stream and different oils deliver different benefits; chamomile eases inflammation, while lavender relieves bruising with its anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties.Stiffness is relieved with a co

In summary, body oils nourish dry skin and protects against further dryness. Focus on areas like elbows and knees that may need extra hydration.Massage oils on the other hand, are great if muscles are feeling tired and tight. It leaves your skin feeling hydrated and smooth. Choose a calming blend and you’ll feel like you’ve just had a day at the spa.

Some body oils are blended to help with stretch marks as they nourish the skin and help promote elasticity. Body oils absorbs quicker and deeper than most lotions, which promotes healing of the skin and helps to fade your stretch marks.

If you intend to choose a bath oil, then it's important you make enough 'me time' to create a luxurious bath experience. Add a few drops of a decent bath and body oil to your bath water. Choose a calming blend to create a relaxing, spa-like experience in your own home.

Additionally, body oils can be useful of protecting against razor burns so if you are prone to razor burn (small red bumps that appear after shaving), then protect your skin by using a body oil first. It helps to hydrate skin and the high lauric acid content will protect it from razor burn. Simply rub on your legs prior to shaving.

Using body oils especially those blended with essential oils noted for their insect repellant properties are great for protecting your skin against those pesky insects and flying mites. Insects don’t like the feeling of oil on the skin and are more likely to stay away from you if your skin has been treated with a body oil first.

So many makeup removers on the market are full of chemicals and ingredients that are drying to the skin but a decent body oil is always a bonus and a natural solution that will remove your makeup without drying your skin. Your skin will feel hydrated, nourished, and clean.

As a hair treatment body oils can be applied to treat dry split ends. Simply rub a few drops onto the ends of your hair to help hydrate your dry parched strands. It is also amazing  for the hands and feet, softening dry cuticles and dealing with rough skin especially on the soles of the feet or indeed cracked heels. Apply the body oil to your fingers at least twice a day for beautifully soft cuticles. Apply the oil to clean feet before bed, put fresh socks on over top and keep them on overnight. You’ll awaken to soft, smooth feet in the morning.

Top Tips for Dry Skin

What is dry skin?
A slowing down in sebum production results in dry, flaky and easily chapped skin. The problem is exacerbated by environmental factors such as strong sunshine, wind, cold, extremes of temperature (two-thirds of women in the northern hemisphere suffer from dry skin in the winter months), air conditioning, central heating, atmospheric pollutants and strong exfoliators, which strip the skin of moisture. Harsh cosmetics, alcohol-based personal care products and excessive bathing with strong detergents such as Sodium lauryl sulphate all add to the problem.  Dry skin can be a sign of dietary deficiencies, especially of essential fatty acids and vitamins A and B complex. Alcohol and caffeine are both diuretics and can dehydrate the skin. Dry skin can also be the sign of an under-active thyroid. Certain medications, such as diuretics and antihistamines contribute to dry skin.

Dry skin care

• Avoid going from very hot to very cold environments
• Keep rooms moist, especially in winter by placing bowls of water by the radiators, or use a humidifier
• Avoid excess exposure to strong sunshine, and apply a good sunscreen to exposed areas of your skin
• Get plenty of sleep, as cellular repair is at its greatest when you are at rest
• Regular exercise will nourish and cleanse your skin from within
• Choose a gentle, alcohol-free cleanser, such as an organic cleansing balm rich in nourishing oils
• Avoid harsh exfoliators, strong detergents and very hot water
• Dry skin needs regular stimulation with massage and a balancing facial oil rich in ingredients such as Rosehip and Pomegranate
• A natural moisturiser fortified with skin-balancing plant actives increases the water content of the skin and gives it a soft, moist look
• Use an alcohol-free facial mist or pure mineral water to freshen your face during the day
• Always apply moisturiser to face and neck with light, tapping, upwards motions while the skin is still slightly damp. This helps lock in moisture and stimulates the circulation
• If you are aged 35+, try a rich cleansing balm or cream product. Follow with a tiny amount of facial oil and facial serum. Once a week, use a facial mask to clarify the skin and remove dull, dry surface skin cells 

Diet for dry skin 

• Drink lots of filtered water and non-diuretic herbal teas
• Limit alcohol and caffeine, which have a diuretic effect and can aggravate dry skin
• Supplement your diet with vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids from evening primrose oil
• Snack on sunflower and pumpkin seeds and nuts
• Include plenty of oily fish in your diet or buy unrefined, cold-pressed vegetable oil such as flax seed oil. These oils can be used daily on salads and baked potatoes, or mixed into cold dishes
• Eat plenty of yellow and orange vegetables and fruits, rich in antioxidant vitamins C and beta-carotene, green leafy vegetables and wheat germ, sources of vitamin B5
• Increase your intake of vitamin E (found in avocados, wholegrains, nuts and seeds) which is an antioxidant that protects the skin from ageing and maintains elasticity
• Ensure your diet includes zinc, which is involved in hundreds of enzyme reactions essential for skin health. Natural sources include oysters and sesame and pumpkin seeds
• Garlic, onions, eggs and asparagus are high in sulphur, which helps to keep the skin smooth and youthful
• Avoid fried foods, animal fat and hydrogenated vegetable oils, which increase the production of destructive free radicals
• Avoid soft drinks, sugar, chocolate, crisps, or other junk foods

Making sandalwood sustainable

Background
Sandalwood is one of the longest-established medicinal aromatic plants, and has had a continuous history of human use for at least 3,000 years. It is mentioned in the Nirukta, a Vedic commentary likely written about 500 BC. Sandalwood charcoal dating from 1,200 BC has been found in India. Sandalwood is referred to in the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, two poems of Indian epic literature. As early as 900 BCE, powdered sandalwood was used in personal care, both in bathing and as a paste applied to the skin.

In the Dhanvantari Nighantu, a Sanskrit materia medica completed in 1,000 – 1,100 AD, candana (sandalwood) is described thus: “It destroys bile, blood, poison,thirst, fever and worms, it is heavy, and makes the body thin. All candana is bitter and sweet and most cold.” The cooling nature of candana is referred to frequently in ancient texts. The benefits of sandalwood to the skin are referenced in Ayurveda’s foundation text Charaka Samhita (circa 100 AD), in which it is said to be “complexion-promoting”.


Ancient Egyptians imported the wood and used it in medicine, embalming and ritual burning to venerate their gods. Buddhists used Sandalwood as a therapy for depression, anxiety and insomnia and in Tibet, monks have used it to relax the body and focus the mind. In China it was an important incense ingredient and was recognised as an aromatic medicine during the Tang dynasty (581 AD) when it was used to treat respiratory disorders.

The essential oil has been in public use for the last 200 years. In the nineteenth century, Indian sandalwood oil was added to pharmacopoeias of Britain, Germany and Belgium, notably for cystitis and venereal disease. For example: “The Essential oil obtained from Sandal wood (Santalum album) is prescribed for Gonorrhoea. Dose: Thirty minims”. A minim is about one drop. Although sandalwood oil is no longer a conventional remedy for venereal disease, this use may be revisited in future.

The sustainability problem
When I first started buying Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) oil – which I will refer to as SAO – for re-sale in the mid 1970s in the UK, I was paying the equivalent of $35 per kg. Today, it’s over 100 times more expensive. This is a massive increase, even for an essential oil. The main reason is supply-demand dynamics. Prices have risen in direct relationship to the increasing scarcity of the raw material. Twice, during those years, the Indian government shut down export of sandalwood for several months, and when it did come back on the market, the wholesale price had about doubled. These periods of sandalwood famine emphasised the fact that, for this essential oil, the world was dependent on the major producing country – India. And India had a problem.

One supplier told me in the 1980s that if India didn’t get its act together, in 30 years time there would be no more Indian sandalwood oil. His estimate was based on the fact that it takes at least 30 years for a tree to mature sufficiently for essential oil to be harvested. S. album has to be cut down completely for oil distillation, and no new viable sandalwood plantations were being created. On top of this, smuggling – stealing and/or illegally exporting – sandalwood trees or cut wood has been a problem the Indian government has made great efforts to control, but ultimately with little success.

S. album does grow in other parts of the world, primarily Sri Lanka and parts of Indonesia, but illegal exporting and sustainability have been problematic in those areas too. S. album wood and oil exports from Sri Lanka are currently illegal, and the following accounts (2013-2016) reveal that desperate attempts have been made to circumvent this.

In late 2013, Customs Bio-Diversity protection Unit (BDPU) found a series of illegal sandalwood exports worth over 15 million rupees (about $23,000).  In 2015, twenty suspected sandalwood smugglers were shot in Andhra Pradesh, India  And in a July 2016 case, Indian police seized a cache of sandalwood valued at $15 million. Even authorities charged with overseeing trade practices get their hands dirty, as is shown by a forged certificate for sandalwood export, issued by the Indian Board of Investments.

Some of the oil being produced in Sri Lanka is from the roots of trees that were cut down years ago, but the roots were not previously harvested. Production of Sandalwood oil in Indonesia (East Timor) has all but ceased. There are some export licenses for Indian sandalwood oil but these are limited, and only a few hundred kg per year are legally exported today, compared to many thousands of kg in previous decades.

And so, over the last few years, we have tried to make peace with the fact that Indian sandalwood would become a “lost” essential oil, to both the fragrance industry and to aromatherapy. The only glimmer of hope was the “Australian experiment” (see below).

Sandalwood species
Sandalwood is a common term applied to a number of fragrant woods mainly of the Santalum species. Of these, the main types used for commercial oil production are shown in Table 1. Unfortunately many of these species face challenges, and I have rated “Sustainability and crop management” on a 5 point scale from very poor to very good. S. lanceolatum, S. paniculatum and S. austrocaledonicum in New Caledonia are all harvested from wild grown trees with no significant new growth. New Caledonian sandalwood is subject to rampant smuggling. There are some plantations in Vanuatu where new trees are being grown, but volume is very small.

Non-Santalum species that are referred to as “sandalwood” include:
Amyris balsamifera – Amyris, or “West Indian Sandalwood” – a term little used today. Osyris lanceolata and Osyris speciosa – both referred to as “African sandalwood”. Brachyleana hutchinsii – Muhuhu, sometimes also called “African sandalwood”.
Erythroxylum monogynum – “Bastard sandal”

S. yasi may also be a small source of commercial essential oil. Other species of sandalwood grow in Australia and Pacific islands, but none are harvested for commercial production. A constraint of all Pacific Island sandalwoods is limited land space. In fact the only area this does not apply is Australia, where there is almost unlimited land – the principal challenge there is water supply.


The Australian experiment and sustainability
There are several challenges with cultivating Santalum album. It is a semiparasitic tree, and requires specific “host trees” to grow, such as acacia. The essential oil is only found in the central portion of the trunk, the “heartwood”, and in the roots, so trees have to be felled for oil production. In the wild, trees do not produce viable amounts of essential oil-rich heartwood until 30 years of maturity.

In the late 1980s the Western Australian Forestry Department began trials to grow S. album in plantations in Australia’s tropical north. Following this success, TFS (Tropical Forestry Service) was established. TFS was renamed Quintis (quintessential Indian sandalwood) in March 2017. The company found that by replicating the natural environment of India’s forests, plantation-grown Indian sandalwood trees produce heartwood and oil naturally. After 16 years of cultivation, the first batches of commercial Australian SAO were produced by Quintis in 2014.

A Quintis representative comments: “Our researchers have found that a minimum trunk diameter is required for heartwood initiation to occur, so we focus on selective breeding and natural forestry management to produce larger trees and ultimately greater yields of heartwood and oil. We also use an abundance of optimal host trees that provide water and metabolites essential to the growth of the parasitic Indian sandalwood tree.”

The selective breeding program involved identifying “plus” trees for a seed orchard and establishing a progeny trial to validate the superior growth of the selected trees. These trees achieved up to 18% greater growth and yields compared to other trees of the same age. Since 1999, Quintis has invested in research of soil types, a key determinant of sandalwood quality, host tree management, tree breeding, land preparation and irrigation. The need for host trees creates challenges during cultivation, as foresters must work to balance the water requirements of up to six different tree species. The company monitors water usage and irrigation as part of its ISO 9,001 (Quality) and ISO 14,001 (Environment) certification. This approach has helped it identify and manage the environmental and financial risks associated with excessive or insufficient watering.

With rotations to maturity numbering decades in the wild, the harvest of wild trees for commercial purposes creates questions about sustainability. Some conservationists argue that limited regeneration, prolonged cycles of maturity and growing global demands for essential oils mean commercial use of wild-grown trees is inherently unsustainable.

Santalum album was classified as “vulnerable” by the IUCN in 1998. In a November 2104 letter to Quintis (then TFS) the IUCN clarified the following point: “The listing of Indian Sandalwood as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species refers only to the status of the wild populations in the native parts of its range (China, India, Indonesia and the Philippines). Cultivated plants (especially those grown in areas outside of the native range like Australia) are deliberately excluded from the assessment as these are not wild…All efforts to cultivate Indian Sandalwood to meet the demand for timber, oil, etc. are strongly encouraged by IUCN as these help to reduce the need for harvesting from the wild populations.”

Quintis now has 5.4 million sandalwood trees covering 12,000 hectares, and in 2016 the company harvested 32,000 trees yielding 300 metric tonnes of heartwood. It turns out that cultivated S. album trees only need 15-20 years to mature, compared to 30-50 years in the wild. A related species, S. spicatum, is native to Australia, and is also now extensively cultivated. Australia lost the eucalyptus oil industry to China, but it looks likely to dominate the sandalwood industry for the foreseeable future.

Quality control
Indian sandalwood oil may be adulterated by the addition of sandalwood terpenes and fragrance chemicals, Australian sandalwood oil, African sandalwood oil, Indian bastard sandal oil, amyris oil, bleached copaiba balsam, and non-odorous materials such as polyethylene glycol, castor oil, coconut oil and DEHP. The problem of adulteration, along with the sustainability issue and unstable pricing, have combined to make SAO an unattractive option both for practitioners and for clinical research. Although “standardization” may sound unnatural, it has allowed the tea tree oil industry to flourish, and the same applies to many herbal preparations.

The FDA has issued guidelines for the development of traditional medicines derived from plants. Such botanicals are often mixtures of numerous active compounds acting via multiple mechanisms of action. In general, if the mixture’s composition is under tight control, botanical extracts can be studied in clinical trials as mixtures and can receive marketing approval as long as they are shown to be safe and effective. This avoids the laborious, even impossible process of testing multiple single constituents for safety and efficacy, and represents a viable way forward for many essential oils.

For SAO, the base level of standardisation means meeting the ISO standard for Santalum album oil, but this still leaves room for substantial variation. What Quintis has been able to do is cultivate trees that produce a standardised SAO that meets FDA requirements for a botanical medicine. The Quintis project is in compliance with Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP, ICH Q7), a quality assurance system used to regulate pharmaceutical production to control and monitor oil quality during the manufacturing, storage and distribution processes.

Not only is cultivated Santalum album a sustainable option, but it’s also one that promises scientific progress for other areas and we are already seeing this in practice. I will explore the research in Part Two, focusing on clinical trials already in progress with SAO in relation to skin diseases.

Calming effects and psychodermatology
Mental and dermatological health are linked in many ways. Psychodermatology is the study of the complex inter-relationships between mind and skin. In terms of aromatherapy, it has been shown that inhaling a sedative aroma such as rose or valerian improves skin barrier function, and has a healing effect on eczema patients. Non-sedative aromas did not have this effect.

SAO was not used in these tests, but in aromatherapy literature it is regarded as calming and sedative. This is supported by research in humans and mice demonstrating a sedative effect on inhalation. In a double blind inhalation study of 220 subjects, SAO was rated the most sedative of 12 essential oils or fragrances by measuring electrodermal activity, and it was rated the second most calming odour by self-assessment.

In an uncontrolled study, 29 patients taking benzodiazepine medication for sleep for at least six months, and who had been unsuccessful in reducing their dosage, inhaled a natural fragrance to aid sleep. Over the eight weeks of the study, 26 were able to reduce their medication either partly or completely. One year later, four patients had not resumed benzodiazepine use. The fragrance consisted of sandalwood 35%, juniper berry 12%, rose 8% and orris 6%.

In a pilot study of palliative care patients, either massage with 1% SAO, or SAO diffusion, reduced levels of anxiety measured by STAI, compared to plain oil massage. In another small study, researchers found that SAO used as a perfume was calming throughout the day to a person feeling anxious or overwhelmed, but for someone already feeling relaxed or simply OK, it either produced no change or induced a feeling of wellbeing. When transdermally absorbed but not inhaled, SAO was also calming, reducing blood pressure and heart rate in healthy subjects. Therefore SAO is calming both via inhalation and transdermal absorption.

Reference: http://tisserandinstitute.org/santalum-album-oil-rejuvenated/

Anti-ageing miracle supplements

The beauty industry is awash with anti-ageing beauty supplements but which key ingredients should you be looking out for? Could the secret to radiant skin be as simple as popping a pill? While most of us are happy to spend a small fortune on wrinkle-smoothing lotions and serums, many experts believe that caring for your skin from within is equally important, especially as we get older.

Your skin is a reflection of what's happening on the inside and the importance of a healthy diet cannot be emphasised enough. However as we age, the body is less effective at extracting key nutrients from what we eat. I f you add to that the fact that food quality may be low, and our need for a large quantity of amino acids from proteins for optimum skin care, here's where supplements can help with their high concentrations of key ingredients." So where to start? The beauty industry is awash with anti-ageing beauty supplements but which key ingredients should you be looking out for? So what are the top picks?

MSM
This magic mineral, which is a form of sulphur, plays an essential part in the synthesis of collagen and keratin, which are key for maintaining healthy, youthful skin. Incorporating M S M supplements into your routine is one of the best decisions you can take to improve your skin health. MSM is vital for collagen production. It is also a fantastic anti-inflammatory, so it not only acts as a preventative measure against skin ageing but also
calms reactive or stressed skin.

COLLAGEN
The king of complexion boosters, this age-busting protein assists in keeping skin looking fabulous. Collagen is the main protein of the body. It helps keep skin elastic, firm and hydrated, thus minimising wrinkles. However, we produce less and less of it as we get older, which is why it's essential to up your intake. As we age, collagen decreases, so it's important to recommend boosting its presence with a supplement. I have previously written about collagen and its benefits in an earlier blog.  You can read it here:
http://yaso-shan.blogspot.com/2018/01/choosing-right-type-of-collagen.html 

HYALURONIC ACID
Produced by your body, this remarkable water-holding molecule is like the fountain of youth when it comes to skin maintenance. This substance is found within almost all o f the cells of the human body, most abundantly in the joints and the skin. A study in the International Journal of Dermatology, found that levels of hyaluronic acid in the skin decrease as we get older which could exacerbate wrinkles, so taking a daily supplement is a no-brainer.

VITAMIN A
One of the key nutrients when it comes to combating skin ageing, this essential vitamin is vital for a radiant and glowing complexion. Vitamin A is important for normal cell production and repair throughout the body. It influences the skin's immune and sun protection qualities and helps prevent collagen breakdown and maintain skin firmness.

PYCNOGENOL
Keep your complexion looking plump and radiant with this extract from the bark of the maritime pine tree, which helps to improve circulation to the skin. Blood supply to the skin is extremely important if it is to get all the oxygen and nutrients it needs. Pycnogenol can help with skin hydration and vitality, as well as reducing wrinkles by binding with collagen and elastin to protect from various harmful enzymes.

Unfortunately, most people don't get enough of these super skin nutrients in their diet.

NICOTINAMIDE
A water soluble active form of vitamin B3, this radiance-boosting vitamin helps to improve the ability of the epidermis, the upper-most layer of the skin, to retain moisture - leading to softer, smoother skin with less dryness and flakiness, and a reduction of fine lines. It is found in yeast, lean meats, fish and nuts or can be taken as an oral supplemen with evidence showing that it also has anti-inflammatory effects.

COENZYME Q10 
A wrinkle-fighting warrior, coenzyme QIO is one of a group of antioxidants (others include selenium and vitamins. A, C and E) that mop up toxic free radicals. Free radical damage causes collagen and elastin to break down, which leads to wrinkles and skin losing its firmness. Antioxidants such as coenzyme Q^l 0 can protect cells from the damaging effects of these toxic chemicals, promote effective skin repair and reduce the depth of fine lines and wrinkles.

OMEGA OILS
Essential fatty acids help to keep skin looking and feeling supple and it's important to include these in your diet in some way. Omega 3 and 6 are important for skin integrity, a healthy lipid layer and a smooth, luminous complexion. Unfortunately, most people don't get enough of these super skin nutrients in their diet, so a supplement makes an effective internal skin booster.

Skincare Tips for Hands & feet

If you’re ready to get the royal treatment for your hands and feet, you’ll need to find a nail salon or body care spa that offers a great manicure and pedicure. Having your nails, fingers, wrists, toes, ankles, and the soles of your feet massaged, moisturised, and buffed to perfection by a professional beautician is a great stress reducer and confidence booster.

Manicure and Pedicure
Whether you just want a simple manicure to touch up your nail polish or a complete hand and foot massage to moisturise, exfoliate, and restore your hands, there’s a manicure and pedicure service for you.

Most nail salons offer a wide range of colours and designs, as well as a variety of hand and foot care services. A total manicure and pedicure is about much more than just beautifying your nails. It involves soaking your hands and feet in warm water, followed by gentle massage, cuticle treatment, and exfoliation. Most pedicurists will clip or file away calluses and rough areas on your feet, restoring them to baby-soft smoothness.

A mani-pedi is a great choice if you want to treat yourself to a relaxing spa treatment. It’s also a perfect option for a girls’ day out, spa birthday, or pre-wedding bridesmaid party.

Tips for a Long-Lasting Manicure and Pedicure
If you’re getting a professional manicure or pedicure, the last thing you want is to accidentally damage it or have the polish chip off quickly. To keep your nails pristine for as long as possible, try the following tricks:

• Apply moisturiser to your hands and feet every night, or every couple of nights at least.
• Exfoliate your hands once a week using an exfoliating skin care product. Or, try a homemade mixture of salt or sugar with olive oil, a natural moisturiser that nourishes the skin.
• Before polishing, clean your nails with alcohol or nail polish remover. This will clear away any oils that might stop the polish from bonding properly to the nails.
• Sealing the colour with a clear top coat will extend the longevity of your manicure or pedicure. Some salons will do this even if you don’t mention it; others have to be asked.

Whether you want to look your best for a wedding, reunion, or other event, or just need a relaxing break from the daily grind, you can find the perfect nail salon or day spa near you on our manicure and pedicure pages.

Taking care of hands and feet during the winter months is a bigger challenge and requires more effort given the harsher environmental conditions and cold spells can be extreme especially on the hands. Jumping back and forth between your warm home to the bitter cold outdoors to the hot heat of your car and back again can take a toll on your skin after a very short amount of time. However, there are some relatively easy things you can do to prevent damage to your skin.


Turn Down the Heat
It can be very tempting in the winter to crank up the heat when you are taking a shower or washing your hands. While it may sound counterproductive, warm and hot water will dehydrate your skin rather than moisturise it. Your skin has natural oils that create a barrier to keep moisture in. Hot water breaks down this barrier, causing your skin to lose those naturally moisturising oils. Instead, opt for lukewarm water rather than hot water. The slightly cooler water will help preserve that precious moisture barrier.

Exfoliate
Exfoliate your hands and feet to help prevent dry, cracked skin. Don’t exfoliate if your skin is already cracked, as this will only make the problem worse. An exfoliant is great if your face is suffering from dry skin.

Wear Gloves and Socks 
You wear gloves and socks outside in the cold to stay warm, so put them on while you are inside to stay moisturised! Before going to sleep, lather your hands and feet with a strong moisturiser. Drop cuticle oil or rub Vaseline on your nails and cuticles.  Next, put on a pair of knit or cotton gloves or mittens. Thick cotton socks work well for your feet and for your hands if you do not have a pair of gloves. When you wake up in the morning, you will have soft, moisturised skin!

Slough It Off
If you are a bit more committed to preventing dry skin all year round, cleansing brushes are a great way to exfoliate your skin quickly and easily on a regular basis. 

Consider a Humidifier
If you’ve got dry skin all over, consider moisturising not just your skin, but the air around you as well. Cold weather in the winter dries out the air in your home. A humidifier can help restore some of the moisture in the air. Just be sure to clean it regularly so that it doesn’t release bacteria or mold into the air.

Serums vs Oils - what's the difference?

With the recent explosion of skin improving oils, there appears to be a lot of misconceptions about serums and oils which warrants some clarification. Many people believe that oils are serums, and many companies even lay claims to the fact that their oils “apply like serums”. While similar application and feel may be true in certain instances, there are very distinct differences between the two product types.

Serums vs. Oils
Both products (serums and oils) have amazing benefits for the skin.They are both a fabulous way to nourish your skin and achieve certain skincare goals, however, their formulations (and how they apply) are very distinct from one another. 

Serums
One may wonder, exactly what classifies a product as a “serum”.  A serum is essentially a water-based formula that delivers a potent (and typically powerful) blend of ingredients that will penetrate your skin. Generally speaking, serums tend to be lightweight as well. There are so many serum options out there, some that are general, and some that are targeted to fight a specific skincare concern. A useful tip if you are looking to treat acne; reach for a serum that contains ingredients such as salicylic acid and willow bark extract. If hyperpigmentation is an issue, try vitamin C, bearberry, mulberry, or licorice root extract-enhanced products. If you are going more for an anti-ageing effect, try a serum infused with peptides, glycolic acid, or ferulic acid. Whatever the concern, a serum is highly recommended in your daily regimen for faster, longer-lasting, more powerful results.

Oils
An oil on the other hand is essentially, well...an oil! Many “oils” have extra added ingredients, which is fine (if those ingredients are beneficial, as opposed to additional fillers or fragrances which is best avoided). As [previously mentioned, many brands are marketing their oils to be “like serums”, and truth be told, it is incredibly hard to distinguish some products as either one or the other given their cross-over appeal. However, the oil base does make them naturally heavier, which means this property needs to be considered if it is to be applied along with other products. Since oils are emollients, they interfere with concentrated ingredients trying to reach the skin. Unlike serums which are water-based, thus delivering the concentrated ingredients directly into the skin.

So, when do you apply your serum and/or oil? The typical rule of thumb for product application is lighter products first. And by light, this means the actual formulation, not colour. Since serums are water-based, it is typically best to apply them directly after cleansing or better yet exfoliating. This allows for the best absorption of your serum, meaning faster results. Many people also apply their serum after they use a toner; this is perfectly acceptable.

Many people apply their oils last, and it really depends on the circumstances. On a typical day, many only utilise the facial oil in the evening. Some apply it following the serum application once it has dried and it may feel as though it helps to lock in all of the fabulous benefits of both. If using my oil during the day, choose a no-makeup day and go without the serum. Of course, this is very much a personal preference. However, it is important to wear SPF (sun protection factor) during the day. SPF is essential during the day so many therefore prefer to use the facial oil at night as adding the SPF can feel rather heavy on the skin. 

Serum vs Oil: Which is Better for your Skin Type?
The lines of skincare can easily become blurred, especially when new products are constantly being developed to fill unknown ‘gaps’ in your routine. Two products that often get confused and misused are serums and oils, so here is how to choose the best one for your skin and its needs. 

Serum
What does it do? A serum is a concentrated cocktail of actives housed within a water-based fluid that is lightweight and incredibly easy for the skin to absorb. This blend of active ingredients is designed to offer everything from intense hydration to depigmentation benefits where it really counts – within the lower layers.

How does it do this? Serums are able to penetrate down to the lower layers of the skin due to their small molecular size. This means that they sink in quickly, passing through the surface to the dermis where collagen production and skin correction can take place. Potent actives also tend to be water-soluble, so they can be delivered more effectively in a serum-like formulation than something heavier or thicker in texture such as a cream, which mainly sits on the surface of the skin.

How does it feel? Serums generally feel pretty weightless on the skin. Some may provide a slight sheen or initial greasiness when applied but this isn’t very common. Thicker serums will feel more gel like in consistency while lighter serums will feel more like water or be very runny so it is important that they are dispensed directly onto the face – don’t bother applying a serum to your hands first as they will absorb all the benefits before you even touch your face.

Who is it for? The beauty of serums is that they can work for everyone and all skin types can derive some sort of benefit from using them regularly, especially oily, dehydrated and sensitive skins. Serums are the best product to provide the skin with antioxidant protection and as they sit comfortably underneath creams and lotions, are easy to include in any routine.

Oil
What does it do? An oil is a nourishing, balancing and comforting blend of natural extracts, essential oils and botanicals designed to not only plump the skin but to also add a radiant glow and a softer texture that is hard to achieve with other topical formulas.

How does it do this? Facial oils are made up of natural oils extracted from plants and seeds often with the addition of a lipid-soluble active ingredient here and there such as Vitamins C and E. Due to their thicker texture and combination of molecular sizes, oils provide both surface and below surface benefits although many don’t travel as deeply into the skin as a serum.

How does it feel? As you would expect, an oil feels a little greasy at first but they tend to have a more luxurious texture than a serum so the skin will still feel the comforting effects many minutes after application. When pushed or pressed onto the face, the skin becomes supple and plump, which is a great way to both prep the skin for make-up and infuse it with nutrients before bedtime.

Who is it for? Again, there is a facial oil for everyone but mature, dry, ageing and unbalanced skin types tend to benefit the most from their richer and more plant-based formula. Oily complexions can derive many sebum-reducing benefits and those with dull or lacklustre skin will enjoy the serious radiance boost an oil gives. Oils can also be used more sporadically and still give results, so if daily application feels like too much, apply them every other day instead.

Benefits of Oats in Skincare

Oatmeal and winter go hand in hand. Whenever we jumpstart our mornings with a warm bowl of oatmeal topped with fresh figs, sesame seeds or chocolate, we feel more energetic and ready to take on the day. But did you know this breakfast superfood also boasts beauty benefits?


The use of oats in skincare has been documented as far back as 2000 BC but today colloidal oatmeal, a natural product produced from finely ground oat grains is boiled to produce an extract. It's full of vitamins, minerals and lipids that add moisture to benefit the condition of one's skin. Oatmeal contains both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and as such is ideal for sensitive skin and to treat a variety of skin disorders (i.e sunburns, eczema and poison ivy).

Our skin can certainly use the extra hydration and protection now that it's blistering cold outside. Here are five ways to reap the beauty benefits of oatmeal:

Bath soak: For a truly relaxing bath, pour a cup of plain oatmeal into your tub as it fills up with warm water. Then add a few drops of lavender oil or a pinch of dried lavender. Soak in this aromatherapy solution for 15 to 30 minutes. The oatmeal will cleanse your skin and lock in moisture, while the lavender produces a calming, soothing scent.

Itchy skin remedy: Itchy, dry skin often has a high pH level, but oatmeal can help normalise your skin's pH, which can relieve itchy, uncomfortable skin. Oatmeal baths also soften and moisturise your skin, which helps lock in moisture and protect skin from exterior irritants.


Face wash: Oatmeal contains chemicals known as saponins that are characterised by their intense cleansing properties. Saponins are commonly added to shampoos and detergents for it's emulsifying and foaming abilities that create a rich lather. It is this propertythis makes oatmeal ideal to use as a face mask, cleanser or soap for every skin type, especially sensitive skin. For a simple homemade recipe, mix whole oatmeal with warm water into a paste and add a teaspoon of honey. Rub the cleanser onto your skin in circular motions to cleanse face. The antibacterial action of honey will also help to relieve inflamed skin and alleviate dryness.

Exfoliator treatment: If over-the-counter scrubs tend to leave your skin raw and red, try exfoliating with a do-it-yourself treatment with blended colloidal oatmeal, coconut oil, brown sugar and lukewarm water. You'll get the same cleansing and buffering properties without all the unnecessary harshness. Plus, the coconut oil will give your skin a healthy-looking glow.

Dry shampoo: Just as oatmeal works wonders at removing excess dirt and debris from the body, it can also help to reduce the appearance of dirty hair. Blondes can brush through a light dusting of finely ground oats throughout their strands to soak up excess oils. Your homemade oatmeal dry shampoo will also help to relieve an itchy scalp.

Believe it or not, oatmeal is a pretty amazing thing packed with some pretty important vitamins, minerals, and proteins, oatmeal! It’s great for the body both inside and out. One of the most profound ways that oatmeal can benefit your family is on the skin.  This amazing product works wonders for even the most delicate skin, and it can provide needed relief at times when the skin of your child or any of your family members needs it most.

Oatmeal just may be one of the best home remedies for itchy skin, and its gentle effects are a great alternative to many chemicals and over-the-counter itch treatments. From stopping itching to helping relieve insect bites and stings, from rashes to sunburns, oatmeal is a great resource for your whole family!

Its skin-soothing powers were known as early as 2000 BC, and to this day, it is widely cited as effective for relieving dryness and inflammation, including insect stings, rashes, and eczema. That's why finely powdered ("colloidal") oatmeal is sifted into soothing body soaks, moisturisers, and soaps.

In dermatologist practice, it is recommend that oatmeal is used for sensitive, allergy or eczema prone skin because it is an excellent moisturiser with skin healing, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and itch relieving benefits. 

Oats available in the market are called as Oatmeal. They are made by either rolling, grinding, steel cutting the oat grains. My research revealed that the steel cut oats are the best for both skin and health because they closest to the natural form of oats.

Oats available in the market are called as Oatmeal. They are made by either rolling, grinding, steel cutting the oat grains. My research revealed that the steel cut oats are the best for both skin and health because they closest to the natural form of oats.

So, what exactly are the 10 benefits of using oats or oatmeal for skin?

1. Oats for washing face: Oats acts as a mild cleanser because of the saponin content. 
2. Oats for Eczema: Oats help in the recovery of the eczematous skin by moisturising, restoring the skin barrier, reducing itching, and regulating inflammation. Colloidal oatmeal or grounded oats can be added to lukewarm water in the bathtub, to soothe irritated and itchy skin due to any cause. You can also use homemade cleanser for dry skin as a body wash for eczema prone skin; it is an excellent alternative to harsh surfactants, and I have seen good results in eczema patients with this recipe. See my previous post on this: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/natural-herbal-approaches-to-eczema.html 
3. Oats as Scrub: The gritty nature of oats makes it an excellent scrub for sensitive skins that cannot tolerate the usual exfoliators.
4. Oats as moisturiser: No wonders oats are part of many moisturisers available in the market. Thanks to its lipids and protein content that have humectant, occlusive and emollient properties. 
5. Oats for Ageing skin: Due to antioxidant benefits, oats can help in reversing damage caused by UV rays, pollution, harsh chemicals, etc. on your skin. How about trying one of these researched and tested face packs for your skin this weekend?
6. Oats for Sunburn: Oats can be used to soothe the sunburnt skin owing to soothing, anti-oxidant, healing and moisturising properties, check out the recipe in the article, 10 step guide to heal sunburn.
7. Oats for Atopic Dermatitis: Several studies support the role of colloidal oatmeal both for cleansing and moisturising the eczematous skin of Atopic dermatitis. The use of oats might reduce the need for steroids as well! You can add oatmeal or grounded oats to lukewarm water in the bathtub, to soothe irritated and itchy skin of your kid. You can also use homemade cleanser for dry skin as a body wash for atopic eczema prone skin.
8. Oats for Itchy skin: Colloidal oatmeal reduces itching in various skin diseases ranging from dermatitis to fungal infections when used for cleansing and bathing. How about dipping in oat bath to calm your itch?
9. Oats for Psoriasis: Oats help in the healing of psoriasis lesion owing to its anti-inflammatory nature.
10. Oats as dry shampoo: A mixture of grounded oats and soda bicarbonate can be used as a dry shampoo. Sprinkle the mixture on your hair, let it absorb oils and comb the mixture out.

Typical way of using oatmeal:

1. Grind oatmeal and brown sugar into a fine powder using a coffee grinder or blender of your choice.
2. Add the raw honey, jojoba oil and essential oils and stir well.
3. Wet face with a little warm water.
4. Apply a small amount of facial scrub to your skin and gently massage using small, circular motions for several minutes.

Are there any side effects of using oats on the skin?
Oats are mostly safe to use on skin. However, few reports of sensitivity to oats have been reported mainly in those with eczema. Thus, you should avoid oats in all forms if you experience redness, irritation or worsening of eczema after using it. Reports of cross-sensitivity with wheat also exists. Thus, gluten sensitive patients might exercise caution while using oats.

In the end, I am sure you would incorporate oats into your skincare regime. However, make sure that you buy good quality ingredients for maximum benefit for both, skin and health.

The anti-ageing benefits of retinol

When it comes to “anti-ageing creams” and treating lines & wrinkles, there is one ingredient that is head & shoulders above the rest. Despite all the technological advances in skin care, Retinol is STILL the gold standard in anti-ageing!

Retinol is fantastic for treating lines & wrinkles no matter what your skin type or secondary skin concerns. Lines & wrinkles aren’t the only thing this wonder-ingredient can treat though. Retinol has the ability to correct all sorts of skin conditions and concerns including acne, eczema, pigmentation, enlarged pores.

What is Retinol?
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A and part of a family of ingredients known as Retinoids. Vitamin A is a potent antioxidant which has the ability to protect cells from free radical damage thus preventing collagen breakdown. It is also essential for cellular renewal and DNA repair.

Retinol acts like a hormone with the skin, normalising cell function. Therefore encouraging the skin to behave the way it did when it was younger.

Retinoid Skin Care Benefits
Aside from being an effective antioxidant, Vitamin A is essential for collagen synthesis and production. This is why it’s a fantastic ingredient to use when treating lines & wrinkles.

Retinol also normalises cellular turnover. As we age our cell turnover begins to slow down and become more sluggish. So by increasing it, it helps to give a more youthful complexion. By helping to normalise the way new cells are laid down forming the stratum corneum. Anyone who struggles with topical exfoliation should give Retinol a try. It has a similar exfoliating effect, but by stimulating the skins natural desquamation process.

For acne suffers where hyper-keratosis (excess of skin cells being produced) is an issue, Retinol helps to slow down cell production. In other words, helping to regulate or normalise cell turn over to a healthy rate.

Retinol also helps to normalise sebum production by reducing over-active sebaceous glands. So great for excessively oily skins. This regulation of oil production also helps to correct any secondary skin concerns such as acne or rosacea.

The Problem With Retinol
Whilst Retinol is a wonderful ingredient, it does have it’s drawbacks. There are good reasons why a lot of skin care brands do not use it in their formulations.

Firstly, it’s a highly unstable ingredient which deteriorates quickly when exposed to air and light. This is why it’s important to choose a product that uses encapsulated retinol and / or in airless packaging. This helps to ensure vulnerable ingredients are protected and thus remain active.

For example, imagine a product contains 0.5% pure Retinol. If the ingredient has not been protected, then the amount that is available to the skin will be much less. So therefore the results will be affected.

Secondly, it can be highly irritating and not easily tolerated by the skin. Using too much, too soon can cause irritation and over-stimulation. Which is why most over-the-counter skincare brands use such tiny concentrations so to avoid adverse reaction. However they also sacrifice the results from using retinoids.

It’s best to introduce Retinol slowly into your regime. This is another reason to choose a product that uses encapsulated Retinol, thus helping to deliver the Vitamin A to the deeper layers of skin without causing surface irritation.

Are All Retinoids Created Equal?
Vitamin A is such an effective ingredient because it’s recognised by the skin and has the ability to change the cell behaviour. Skin cells have receptor sites that recognise Vitamin A and can metabolise the ingredient. However it’s important to understand that in order for this to happen, Vitamin A has to be in a specific form known as Retinoic Acid. Therefore any retinoid that is applied topically to the skin goes through a conversion process before it can be utilised by the skin cell.

It is possible to apply Retinoic Acid topically in the form of a product called Retin-A (Isotretinoin). However this is a prescription drug and can only be prescribed by dermatologists. Whilst it’s the most effective form of Vitamin A, it’s also the most irritating and likely to cause irritation and over-stimulation.

The stages and order of Vitamin A conversion in the skin are;

• Retinyl Esters (Sometimes shown as Retinyl Palmitate on ingredients)
• Retinol
• Retinaldehyde
• Retinoic Acid

The further away from Retinoic Acid and the more conversion needed. The weaker the effect but also least irritating. The closer to Retinoic Acid and the less conversion needed. The stronger the effect but also the most irritating.

By this principle, in non-prescription skincare, then it’s best to choose a product that contains Retinol or Retinaldehyde (or a combination of the two).

Studies have shown that 0.5% Retinaldehyde is just as effective as 0.5% Retinoic Acid. Except Retinaldehyde is more easily tolerated by the skin and without the localised irritation of Retinoic Acid. [1]

How To Use Retinol Skincare
Choose a product that uses encapsulated Vitamin A and start off slowly. Introducing the product in small amounts with rest days until skin tolerance level is determined.

It’s completely normal to experience some initial dryness or flaking on the third day of using a Vitamin A product for the first time. This is because it takes 3 days for Retinol to be fully metabolise and converted to Retinoic Acid.

Due to the fact that Vitamin A is light sensitive, it’s best to use your Retinol products at night. This avoids the ingredient becoming unstable and therefore ineffective.

Always use a sunscreen whilst using Retinol products. This applies when using any stimulating ingredient on the skin that increases cell turnover and encourages desquamation.

Studies show by combining Retinol with AHA’s helps boost it’s effectiveness, particularly when treating sun damaged / photo damaged skin[2].

Reference:

1. Profilometric evaluation of photodamage after topical retinaldehyde and retinoic acid treatment. Creidi P, Vienne MP, Ochonisky S, Lauze C, Turlier V, Lagarde JM, Dupuy P, J Am Acad. Dermatol. 1998 Dec; 39(6):960-5.
2. Pharmacology of RALGA, a mixture of retinaldehyde and glycolic acid. Tran C1, Kasraee B, Grand D, Carraux P, Didierjean L, Sorg O, Saurat JH. Dermatol. 2005; 210 Suppl 1:6-13.
3. https://andymillward-skincare.co.uk/2015/03/retinol-the-gold-standard-in-anti-ageing-skincare/