Non-Toxic Solutions for Healthy Nails

Toxic chemicals can proliferate in nail care. There are plenty of gentle, non toxic alternatives you can try to ensure that your next pedicure is both safe and attractive.

Massage, file, moisturise, paint. Who doesn't love a good pedicure? But today, even mainstream media is calling attention to the potential dangers of conventional nail products and treatments; In May 2015 the New York Times article entitled "Perfect Nails, Poisoned Workers" reported on the health issues manicurists and other salon workers had experienced, including everything from allergies to miscarriages to cancer. As a result, more people are waking up to the risks of caustic treatments and conventional products. While the chemical-based nail salon biz is still big (and many of these treatments and products that line the shelves of conventional retailers are made with caustic chemicals), the good news—and yes, there is good news—is that we need not forgo our nail treatments entirely. In fact, innovative natural brands are giving us even more reasons to enjoy a mani or pedi by using ingredients that are actually healthy for you and your nails.

Healthy Nails Tips
Thanks to products like these, we can more easily dodge harmful ingredients. But even before a product touches your nails, it’s important to incorporate natural ingredients into your nail regimen. By focusing on nurturing the skin and nails with natural products, the nails grow faster and stronger. Before trying your new non-toxic paint, give your nails a detox; let them go polish free and regularly apply a simple, natural at-home treatment to restore their strength.

Massage oils are high recommended these would include neem, coconut, jojoba or even olive oil - incorporate into the nail and cuticle regularly. Additionally, if you’re eating a  well balanced diet and taking care of your nails, you can avoid nail strengtheners entirely.

A nail-boosting diet
Taking a look at your nails (literally) can help you pinpoint more nail-healthy practices you should try, starting with what you put in your body. An iron deficiency, for example, can cause dry skin and brittle nails, indicating you may need to increase your dietary protein or consider taking a protein supplement.

Other signs of deficiencies: Lines or white spots on nails may be a sign you need to up your zinc intake; increase zinc to at least 8 mg daily from foods such as oysters, crab, beef, beans, nuts, chickpeas and dark-meat poultry, or take a zinc supplement. Also, splitting or peeling nails are simply crying out, for hydration a sure sign of lack of water. Therefore drink plenty of water and supplement with healthy fats (omega 3 and 6 essential fatty acids - read my blog post on advice about fats here: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/the-fats-of-life.html), such as gamma-linolenic acid. The body is smart—it will heal itself if given the chance to be chemical free.

Seven Great Essential Oils for Women

Essential oils have an holistic effect on the body which makes them a perfect choice for multi-faceted problems. For many women the ups and downs of life can cause a range of niggling symptoms and although there are many oils that can help, some in particular stand out for their multi-purpose action. Here is a selection of some favourites for you to try, either on their own or blended to suit your particular needs.

Bergamot has been shown to reduce anxiety, improve mood and relieve the effects of chronic stress. It is useful for mood swings and irritability or just to give you a boost if you are feeling low. A cheerful oil for year-round happiness and health. This oil can be irritating to the skin and is also phototoxic, so it is best inhaled from a tissue or used in a diffuser.

Roman Camomile is the most gentle of oils, with a mild sedative effect that calms anxious feelings and relieves tension-related aches and pains. Try in a blend for monthly cramps or add a few drops to the bath for tension, stress and sleeplessness. Also safe to use with children if their irritability is having a knock-on effect on you.


Clary Sage is an ancient medicinal herb which has been used for thousands of years for digestive pains and abdominal muscle cramps. This oil is also used frequently in aromatherapy to help relieve symptoms relating to the menopause. Add to a blend for massage or inhale to balance constantly shfting emotions.

Highland Lavender has so many uses it is difficult to know where to start, but definitely use a high altitude Lavender for the best therapeutic effect. It is great to improve sleep and daytime alertness, and also helpful if you suffer from skin breakouts: just dab a little on blemishes to reduce redness and inflammation.

Mandarin has a relaxing effect that is calming rather than sedating, helping to relieve over-tiredness and associated hyperactivity. Its gentle effects work well for body as well as mind, making Mandarin a useful addition to a blend for cramps.

Sweet Marjoram has a warming effect on tight muscles so it is ideal in a massage blend for tension-related muscle pain. It has also been shown to lower heart rate and blood pressure, making it especially suitable for emotional support during difficult times.

Peppermint is well known for its cooling effects. Great for abdominal massage, or try a couple of drops in a cooling body mist during the menopause. Peppermint also stimulates the body, helping to boost energy levels and sharpen concentration. Put a drop on each temple for headaches or use in a foot bath to banish mental fatigue.

Making the most of natural skincare products

The world is waking up to natural skin care. In recent years there's been resurgence in less-invasive treatments that revive skin, hair, and nails and make humans look human again. This new era of beauty focuses on the nude, the natural, and a high-tech, low-risk beauty, where organic products, science and technology intersect to deliver minimal-downtime results that are seemingly produced by nature.

Natural Balance
The skin produces its own natural moisturiser, called sebum, a mixture of fatty acids, alcohols and esters which keeps the skin from drying out. Sebum production is maximum around puberty, and decreases with age. It is important that the correct amount of sebum is produced: over-production creates what we call ‘oily skin’, while under-production creates ‘dry skin’. If the skin is -constantly dried out with overuse of soaps, it simply ¬stimulates the production of sebum, resulting in oily skin. Balance in all things please!

Hydrolats (Floral Waters) for Natural Toning
Hydrolats are the waters produced when you distil plant material. They contain many important and nourishing water-soluble plant compounds, and are safe, gentle and nourishing. Hydrolats have a pH value which is perfect for skin care, most being in the range 4-6. The combination of the nourishing plant compounds combined with a perfect pH value makes them a perfect natural skin toner.

Oils for Natural Moisturising
It is an unfortunate fact that if you put the two words ‘skin’ and ‘oil’ together, the reaction is not good. We think of oily, unsightly skin, pimples, acne, scars... Yet it is the oil in skin which keeps it soft, youthful, supple, moist, and healthy! Many vegetable oils contain a range of wonderful ¬nutritious compounds that help keep the skin healthy, vital and soft. They are an important source of vitamins, minerals, and the essential fatty acids which are so vital for general health and well-being, especially in skincare.
Vegetable Oils in Ancient Cultures
The value of vegetable oils has been recognised over centuries by traditional cultures. They have been used for skin hygiene, protection, and beautification in conditions and climates far harsher than our own, because of their superb regenerating qualities.

What are Essential Fatty Acids?
Despite a slightly unpromising name, essential fatty acids (EFAs) are wonderfully healthy compounds required by the body for a range of vital functions. Furthermore, they cannot be synthesised by the body, and therefore must be obtained externally. Examples of EFAs are linoleic and linolenic acid, and their metabolites such as GLA, and DGLA. The compounds known as omega-3, -6, -9 etc are all EFAs. Deficiency in these EFAs can lead to problems such as heart disease, stress, poor skin tone, liver ¬problems, susceptibility to infections, etc. Many of these vegetable oils are perfect natural sources of EFAs.

pH perfect
Did you know that your skin is naturally slightly acidic? Healthy skin has a pH value of between 4.5 and 6.8 (pH is a measure of acidity with 1 being very acid, 7 is neutral, and 14 highly alkaline). Any product which is ¬alkaline (and there are many on the market) will strip the skin of its acid mantle, leading to the possibility of -infection and over-production of sebum.

Your Skin is Incredible
Your skin is simply incredible! It is the largest organ in the body, performing a multitude of functions: it protects the body from dirt, minor injuries, bacteria, and chemicals; it absorbs helpful compounds and eliminates unhelpful ones; it regulates temperature, and provides sensation, responding to both pain and pleasure. Your skin continuously renews itself as well. New skin cells are constantly being created at the deepest level, and they gradually work their way out to the surface, changing their structure and function as they do so, before being shed. This whole cycle takes about a month — so each month you have a completely new skin!

There are many benefits associated with using all natural skincare products on your skin, from improving the health of your skin to contributing to a safer environment. By avoiding harmful ingredients found in regular skincare products you will help decrease your chances of redness, irritation and breakouts, along with severe allergic reactions. In addition, you are putting fewer toxic chemicals into the environment and water, contributing to a safer and cleaner environment.

The fine art of essential oil distillation

The Crucial Process of Distillation and the True Art of Essential Oil Production   
You probably wouldn't be reading this post if you didn't already have an interest in quality of essential oils. So it's worth taking time to go more deeply into the factors that determine the characteristics of the end product. Did you know that distillation is one of the critical factors that determines whether we end up with a mediocre oil or one that reverberates with energy and vitality?
Let's talk a little about the process of distillation...

Different harvesting methods

This picture shows the large commercial harvesting 

of Clary Sage in Provence. A combine harvester transfers

 the plant material to a trailer where it is cut up ready 

for distillation. This process is quick and efficient, but 

will not be suitable for producing a therapeutic grade oil. 

Distillation is an art. It takes years to learn and master, and this is a never-ending process. There are many different methods to employ; different materials of still to use; water and steam distillation; quick and slow; long and short; low and high pressure. All give different results. Which we use will depend on what outcome we have in mind. And different processes suit different plants. The process will also be different whether we are distilling in order to end up with an oil or a hydrolat.

Some distillers speak in almost mystical terms about the process, talking about the magical fusion of the elements of water, fire, earth and air, and many will refuse to leave the still even for a moment during what they see as a sacred process, keeping their careful attention on the procedure throughout.  There is no doubt that for some people distillation is approached with an almost shamanic reverence.

Of course this is not true for all distillers. Remember that only a very small proportion of the global essential oil production is ultimately destined for therapeutic use, and naturally there are large commercial farms distilling, say, lavandin which will ultimately end up in soap or washing powder. For them the parameters are simply different, and their main focus will be to maximise yield. Quality will not be the main issue and the approach to distillation will be correspondingly different.

So the attitude of the distiller is a big factor in the vibrancy of the end-product, and listed below are some of the things he will bear in mind.

After the process is complete, the spent plant material is 

allowed to dry before being used as a 'free' energy 

source for a future distillation.

Preparation of the plant material: This is vitally important, but there is no hard and fast rule here because the optimum procedure varies from plant to plant. Rose petals must be picked early in the morning and distilled without delay before the fragrance fades. On the other hand Lavender is traditionally cut, left in the field under the hot sun to dry for three days and turned twice a day before the distillation process can begin. This allows important enzymatic changes to take place in the plant which contribute to the quality of the final oil.

If you go to Provence you can notice different harvesting procedures. Sometimes the plants are left to dry in the field, but you will also notice the presence of combine harvesters pouring plant material straight into large trailers where it is crunched up immediately ready for the still (see photo above). Such processes will be used where speed, efficiency and yield overtake the requirement of therapeutic quality. Again we see a different process for a different end-product.

Speed, pressure and temperature: If you distil under high pressure and high temperature you end up with a better yield but a lower-grade oil. The finest oil will always be produced with a lower pressure and temperature, and the cost will be correspondingly greater.

Distillation duration: I don't hear this discussed too much and yet it is a major factor. To try and understand why, it is important to know that essential oils are composed of many different biochemical compounds. Some of these exist in tiny amounts, and yet it is these trace elements that add to the character of the essential oil, the depth of fragrance, and probably also contribute greatly to its therapeutic efficacy.

During distillation the lighter, more volatile compounds come through first, while the heavier, slower-moving molecules make their stately way through the process at a much more leisurely pace. Commercial pressures could lead to the 'cutting of corners', bringing the process to a close before those final few trace elements have made it through to the final product, perhaps in order to fit one extra distillation in the day for the same cost.

The key message here that we should note from all this is that 'all distillations are not the same' — they produce big variations in the end product — so again we come back to a theme that we've mentioned many times before: the importance of knowing the original source of the oil, and ideally sourcing the oil direct from the grower.

By Jonathan Hinde; Oshadhi Essential Oils (http://www.oshadhi.co.uk/) 2015

20 of the Best of the Oils to Treat Eczema

Eczema (also known as dermatitis) is a dry skin condition. It is widely considered the most common skin disease. The term eczema is broadly applied to a range of persistent skin conditions. These include dryness and recurring skin rashes that are characterized by one or more of these symptoms: redness, skin oedema (swelling), itching and dryness, crusting, flaking, blistering, cracking, oozing, or bleeding.

If you have eczema, your skin may not produce as many fats and oils as other people’s, and will be less able to retain water. The protective barrier is therefore not as good as it should be. Gaps open up between the skin cells because they are not sufficiently plumped up with water. Moisture is then lost from the deeper layers of the skin, allowing bacteria or irritants to pass through more easily. Some everyday substances contribute to breaking down the skin. Soap, bubble bath and washing-up liquid, for example, will remove oil from anyone’s skin, but if you have eczema your skin breaks down more easily, quickly becoming irritated, cracked and inflamed.

According to the UK’s National Eczema Society, a cornerstone of managing and treating eczema is to keep the skin soft and supple. This can be done by using emollients, which keep the skin moist and flexible. Emollients soothe and relieve the itch, producing an oily layer over the skin surface which traps water beneath it. The resulting restoration of the skin’s barrier function by emollients prevents penetration of irritants, allergens and bacteria thereby reducing or preventing the development of eczema.

I have previously written about the benefits of facial oils. You can read it here: http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/facial-oils.html 

The benefits of some of the newer imports from Africa is also discussed in another post. You can read it here: http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/out-of-africa.html

1. Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) – Sweet almond oil is one of the most used carrier oils as it is quite light and is widely available. Almond oil is traditionally cold pressed but much of the almond oil available for sale is extracted using solvents. This oil is a great emollient and nourishes dry skin. It is beneficial in relieving the itching caused by eczema.

2. Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia sinensis) – Although jojoba is typically called an oil, it is actually a liquid wax. In fact, its molecular structure is very similar to that of sebum, the natural oil produced by our skin, which means that it absorbs very easily and does not feel greasy. Its therapeutic properties include uses for dry skin and eczema.

3. Apricot Kernel Oil (Prunus armeniaca) – Very similar in chemical makeup to almond oil, apricot kernel oil is also a great emollient and nourishing oil. Apricot kernel oil is softening, easily absorbed and also great for relieving the itchy symptoms of eczema. This oil is used less than almond oil as it is slightly more expensive.


4. Hemp Seed Oil (Cannabis sativa) – Don’t worry, hemp seed oil doesn’t contain any psychoactive properties! In fact, hemp seed oil is another rich source of essential fatty acids and has been found to provide relief from the itchy symptoms of eczema.

5. Borage Seed Oil (Borago officinalis) – Produced here in the UK, borage is a prolific self-seeder and produces thousands of tiny little black seeds which are pressed for their oil. It is one of the best known sources of Gamma Linolenic Acid, an essential fatty acid. Although a recent study found that borage oil and evening primrose oil when taken internally do not have any significant effects on eczema, it is a non-irritating oil so can still be beneficial for dry and sensitive skin.

6. Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera biennis) – Much like borage oil, evening primrose oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids which are used to repair and maintain skin tissue. Evening primrose oil is frequently used in cosmetic preparations and is good for dry skin. It is thought to be helpful for eczema and wound healing.

7. Chamomile Oil (Chamomilla recutita or Anthemis nobilis) – Another good macerated oil is one containing German or Roman chamomile flowers. Chamomile is anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and fungicidal. Clinical trials have shown that use of chamomile reduces cases of dermatitis.

8. Cumin Seed Oil (Cuminum cyminum) – Perhaps more familiar in curry, cumin seeds are cold pressed for their oil. It is frequently used in cooking but is also known for its cosmetic properties and is thought to be effective in cases of eczema and other skin irritations.

9. Calendula Oil (Calendula officinalis) – This oil is obtained by infusing calendula’s orange petals in another vegetable oil in order to extract its properties. This process is known as maceration. Calendula is known for its great skin properties and can be used to treat bruises, cuts and eczema. It is also useful for chapped and dry skin.

10. Kukui Nut Oil (Aleurites moluccans) – Also known as the ‘candlenut’, the kukui nut tree is found all over the tropics but is best known in Polynesia and Hawaii. Hawaiians have been using kukui nut oil for hundreds of years to protect and heal skin exposed to the elements. Kukui nut oil is easily absorbed into the skin and is good for eczema and dry skin.

11. Carrot Oil (Daucus carota) – Much like calendula, carrot oil is prepared by macerating chopped carrot in another vegetable oil. Carrot is used for soothing itchy skin and is thought to be helpful in treating eczema. It should not be confused with the essential oil, carrot seed oil, which is very different.

12. Perilla Seed Oil (Perilla frutescens) – Obtained from the seeds of the Perilla herb, Perilla seed oil is a rich source of unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins and amino acids. It is frequently used in cooking and is also used along with synthetic resins in the production of varnishes. However, it is also known for its cosmetic properties and can be used to treat dry eczema.

13. Safflower Oil (Carthamus tinctorius) – The Safflower looks a lot like a thistle and its seeds produce an oil that resembles sunflower oil in its makeup. Safflower oil is used in skin-softening cosmetics and is helpful against eczema and rough skin.

14. Peach Kernel Oil (Prunus persica) – Much like almond and apricot kernel oils, peach kernel oil is suitable for dry and sensitive skin and relieves itching from eczema. It absorbs easily but slowly and is a mild oil, suitable for most skins.


15. Sea Buckthorn Oil (Hippophae rhamnoides) – Another macerated oil, sea buckthorn oil comes from an infusion of the berries in a vegetable oil. Sea buckthorn oil contains high levels of essential fatty acids and is used to heal skin injuries such as eczema.

16. Rosehip Oil (Rosa canina) – In my previous post on rosehip oil, we looked at the skin healing properties of this fantastic oil. Rosehip oil is frequently used in cosmetics and is a fantastic natural source of retinoic acid which works well for scarring, burns and eczema.

17. Tamanu Oil (Calyphyllum inophyllum) – The Tamanu tree is native to East Africa but grows all over the southern hemisphere. Each tree only yields about 4-5 litres of oil per year which makes this ingredient expensive. The oil is, however, very much worth it as it is claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties and can be used to treat various hair, scalp and skin problems, including eczema.

18. Sesame Oil (Sesamum indicum) – Frequently used in Asian cooking, sesame seed oil is high in vitamins A, B and E as well as calcium, magnesium and phosphorus. This fragrant oil is also used in various cosmetic preparations (including shampoos, sunscreens, soaps) and is used for dry eczema thanks to its skin-softening properties.

19. Wheatgerm Oil (Triticum vulgare) – This oil contains high levels of vitamin E which is a natural antioxidant and prevents oils from going rancid quickly. In fact, vitamin E levels are around 3,500 ppm compared to 250-600ppm in other plant oils (Price, 2008). These natural antioxidants make wheatgerm oil a great anti-ageing oil as it softens the skin and help with cell regeneration. For this reason it is also useful for dry eczema.

20. Walnut Oil (Juglans regia) – The walnut produces a deep golden brown oil which is most often used in cooking. Walnut oil is also frequently used in hair and skin preparations and is said to be effective in treating eczema. It is an excellent emollient.

Please note – It goes without saying that if you intend to experiment with any of these oils, you should always do a skin patch test first. Although all of these carrier oils are safe to use on the skin, some people can be allergic to nuts & seeds or sensitive to certain oils which can cause dermatitis or allergic reactions. Be sensible and always test new ingredients out before incorporating them into any kind of skincare regime.

Ref: Read more: http://www.herbhedgerow.co.uk/20-best-oils-for-treating-eczema/#ixzz3hZJQVkOt
More about herbs from: http://www.herbhedgerow.co.uk/ 

The Health & Beauty Benefits of Rose Oil

The health benefits of Rose Essential Oil can be attributed to its properties as an antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antiviral, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, cholagogue, cicatrisant, depurative, emenagogue, haemostatic, hepatic, laxative, nervine, stomachic and uterine substance.

Roses are widely considered the most beautiful flowers in the world. The flower is an integral part of innumerable stories, legends, myths and legacies. With its varied colors, incomparable fragrance and range of shapes and sizes, you can find one for every mood and occasion. People who do not know about any of its medicinal properties can still tell you of one undeniable property; a beautiful, red rose can invoke romantic feelings in even the hardest of hearts.

Antidepressant: Rose Oil boosts self esteem, confidence, and mental strength while efficiently fighting depression. They can be very helpful to drive away depression arising for any reason, and it also relieves anxiety. As an antidepressant, patients of acute depression or those undergoing rehabilitation can be given routine and regular doses of this essential oil to bring a positive boost into their lives. This oil is widely used in aromatherapy and invokes positive thoughts, spiritual relaxation and feelings of joy, happiness and hope.

Antiphlogistic: Rose essential oil may calm down a patient of high fever by sedating the inflammation. It can also be beneficial in other cases of inflammation caused by microbial infection, ingestion of poisonous materials, indigestion, and dehydration. This can result in a reduction in associated conditions like rheumatism, arthritis, gout, and fever.

Antiseptic: This is the most fragrant and luxurious way to treat wounds; imagine treating wounds with Oils of Rose instead of those ordinary antiseptic lotions. Topically applying rose oil to wounds helps to protect them from becoming septic and developing infections.

Antispasmodic: Rose essential oil efficiently relieves spasms in the respiratory system and intestines, as well as muscular spasms in various limbs. It also helps to cure convulsions, muscle pulls, cramps and the spasmodic cholera which is caused due to spasms.

Antiviral: Getting protection from viruses or getting yourself vaccinated against all of them is a tough task, since some of them continue to mutate and trick our our immune system, like an old friend who gives you a cold or influenza. The solution to this is to use an antiviral agent that behaves as a shield against any type of virus. Rose essential oil is one such shied, and studies have shown that it protects against many different types of viral infections.

Aphrodisiac: There is almost no need to explain this aspect of rose essential oil.  From Cupid himself to modern day’s high tech lovers, everyone knows how indispensable roses are in the romantic department. The basic element that does that is the essential oil of the flower. The very scent of it can arouse you, and it boosts the libido while invoking romantic feelings which are essential for a successful sex life. This can reduce symptoms of sexual dysfunction, erectile dysfunction, frigidity, and general disinterest in sexual activity with partners.

Astringent: The astringent property of Rose Oil has many benefits. It strengthens gums and hair roots, while toning and lifting skin, and contracting muscles, intestines and blood vessels. This gives protection against the untimely loss of teeth and hair, wrinkles, the loss of firmness of intestines and muscles of the abdominal area and limbs associated with aging. Above all, rose essential oil helps to stop the flow of blood from wounds and cuts by contracting the blood vessels. This astringent property can also cure certain types of diarrhea.

Bactericidal: It is a good bactericide. It can be used in the treatment of typhoid, diarrhea, cholera, food poisoning and other diseases which are caused by bacteria. Furthermore, it can cure internal bacterial infections like those in the colon, stomach, intestines and urinary tract, as well as external infections on the skin, ears, eyes and wounds.

Cicatrisant: This property of Rose Essential Oil can be of great interest for those who care a lot about their looks. It makes the scars and after marks of boils, acne and pox on the skin fade quickly. This includes the fading of stretch marks, surgery scars, and fat cracks associated with pregnancy and delivery. Much of this is due to the antioxidant activity of rose essential oil, which spurs on the healing processes of the skin.

Depurative: Rose essential oil purifies the blood by helping in the removal and neutralization of toxins. Once your blood is purified and free of toxins, you are protected from nuisances like boils, rashes, ulcers, and skin diseases, as well as more serious conditions that free radicals can cause, like cancer and heart disease.

Emmenagogue: This is yet another beneficial property of Rose Oil. It stimulates the hormone secretions which trigger menstruation. It is particularly effective on those who are suffering from obstructed and irregular menses. It also eases cramps, nausea, and fatigue while reducing the pain associated with menstruation and Post-Menopausal Syndrome.

Haemostatic: This property of the Essential Oil of Rose can be very useful for people who are suffering from hemorrhaging (bleeding, external or internal) after an injury or surgery. This speeds up clotting and coagulation of blood and stops excessive bleeding; this property can quite literally save your life.

Hepatic: This simply means that rose essential oil is good for the health of the liver. It keeps it strong, properly functioning and protected from infections. It also treats problems like the excess flow of bile, acids, and ulcers.

Laxative: There cannot be a laxative with a better scent than this, which is an ironic benefit for a laxative. It can serve as a harmless and effective laxative with a beautiful smell causing no adverse side effects. It also influences the intestinal and anal muscles to help clear bowels. This helps in losing weight and preventing excess toxicity in the body.

Nervine: Rose essential oil acts as a tonic for the nerves. It gives them strength to bear shock and protects them from disorders resulting from age and injuries. It will keep your hands from trembling and help you overcome your anxiety when saying those three magic words to your dream girl for the first time.  Of course, you should also have a rose in your hand!

Stomachic: Rose Oil is a stomachic as well. It soothes the stomach, sedates inflammation, helps it function properly and protects it from infections. It also protects it from ulcers which often develop due to over production of acids and their release into the stomach. Excessive acid can lead to heartburn, indigestion, irritable bowel syndrome, excess gas, impacted bowels, and bloating.

Cholagogue: It promotes the flow of bile from the gall bladder and helps to regulate the acid levels in the stomach and the blood, thus keeping you safe from problems like acidity and acidosis. This bile also helps in the digestion of food, together with the acids secreted into the stomach. Improved digestion can reduce the chances of constipation, diarrhea, irritable bowel syndrome, and even more serious conditions like colorectal cancer.

Uterine: Rose essential oil can take care of many feminine problems such as uterine discharge, tumors, bleeding, and irregular periods. It purifies the uterus as well, and keeps it functioning properly even in advanced age, thereby delaying menopause. By regulating menstruation, it is possible to eliminate the associated symptoms and problems of menstruation, including mood swings, hormonal imbalance, overeating, bloating, cramping, and excessive bleeding.

Other Benefits: It regulates hormone production and helps to balance them throughout the body. It is one of the best oils to give you shining, fresh and youthful skin. Its aroma keeps you charged and feeling happy. It promotes circulation, takes care of the heart, reduces blood pressure and helps to cure headaches, asthma, dehydration, leucorrhea and various other infections.

A Few Words of Caution: It can eliminate headaches if used in mild concentrations, but its strong aroma can do just the opposite if a very high concentration is used. Being an Emenagogue, it should not be used during pregnancy, since there is no definite evidence of whether the effects of rose essential oil can be transferred to the fetus. It could possibly cause a miscarriage if taken in excess, so it is best to generally avoid it.

Blending: This Essential Oil blends well with Geranium, Jasmine, Clove and Palma Rosa essential oils.

A question we are often asked about oils in general is "there are so many, how do I choose?". Like many of our oils, there are different types of rose and if you are considering investing in such a beautiful oil you want to be sure you have the right one. After all, why would we stock so many different kinds of rose if they were all the same? The answer is that they aren't; they vary in consistency, scent, therapeutic value and of course price.

So, where to start? Well, a good place to begin would be to look at the different production methodsused to obtain the scented components from rose petals. Rose oil can be produced by one of two methods; distillation or extraction. The distilled oil (rose otto, often just known as rose essential oil) requires 3kg of rose petals to create just 1ml (20 drops), while the extracted oil (rose absolute) gives a much higher yield. Pure rose essential oil costs around three times more to produce than the extracted rose absolute. The Essential Oil of Rose is extracted by steam distillation of fresh Damascus Rose (Rosa Damascena, as it is known among botanists) and is composed of hundreds of components, out of which the major contributors are Citronellol, Citral, Carvone, Citronellyl Acetate, Eugenol, Ethanol, Farnesol, Stearpoten, Methyl Eugenol, Nerol, Nonanol, Nonanal, Phenyl Acetaldehyde, Phenylmenthyl Acetate and Phenyl Geraniol. Damascus Roses are the preferred variety because they are the most fragrant species and are believed to be the original red roses with strongest aroma and highest oil content.

In terms of scent, there is a clear difference between the absolute and the distilled essential oil. Rose absolute is extracted using a solvent, usually hexane, which is used to 'wash' the aromatic oils out of the plant material. The solvent is removed at the end of the process, leaving a thick, highly aromatic liquid with a deep rich scent. In contrast, the steam-distilled essential oil is a thin, clear liquid with a delicate scent that represents a much smaller proportion of the aromatic compounds contained within the plant material. In general extraction produces an oil that has a much fuller, more rounded scent that often smells much more like the original plant.

Here are some details on the individual types of rose oil (roughly in order of price, from lower to higher):

Rose absolute (Rosa damascena): This has a deep, rich colour and a scent to match. Not especially sweet, nor indeed anything like the rose aroma that is associated with many rose-scented toiletry products. Rounded and persistent, a little goes a long way. The lowest price of all the rose oils due to the higher production yield. Great if you need a strong rose aroma for a blend however the use of a solvent to extract the oil brings its own dilemmas when it comes to using on the skin. 

Persian Rose essential oil (Rosa damascena): Solid at room temperature this oil has a high level of plant waxes which slow its movement down a little in comparison to the other distilled rose oils.The Persian Rose has a slightly drier scent than the classic Bulgarian Rose, if anything more like the Rosa Alba (White Rose). At just over half the price of the Bulgarian Rose this oil makes a good introduction to the distilled rose oils. If you struggle to persuade it out of the bottle just pop it in a warm place for a little while.

Turkish Rose essential oil (Rosa damascena): Very similar to the Bulgarian Rose in terms of scent but costs a little less. It isn't Bulgarian but it is still very beautiful!

White Rose essential oil (Rosa alba): Not a Rosa damascena but a Rosa alba. A dusky and mysterious fragrance. A favourite with men and much loved in the Oshadhi office.

Bulgarian Rose essential oil (Rosa damascena): The classic rose, deep, rich and inviting. There are two varieties, the organic oil and the traditionally farmed oil. They share the same base scent however the organic version is a little deeper and more complex (and also costs more due to the increased costs associated with organic farming).

The choices are many:

• Rose Essential Oils
• Bulgarian Rose Essential Oil
• Persian Rose Essential Oil
• Turkish Rose Essential Oil
• Rose Absolute
• Rose Otto

References: https://www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/essential-oils/health-benefits-of-rose-essential-oil.html and http://www.oshadhi.co.uk/blog/essential-oil-profiles-how-to-choose-a-rose-oil/ 

A new way to test cosmetics?

L’Oreal, the renowned French cosmetic firm, is turning to 3D printing now to test out its products. The firm has partnered with Organovo, a bio-engineering startup, to 3D print human skin. This printed skin will be used in product testing. This will make the process affordable, quick, and easier. The design process will be easier as the reaction of the products will no longer be required to evaluate with real hair or bodies before the final phase of testing. Problems leading to failure of product development will be recognized earlier. L’Oreal has said that the opportunities of using the 3D printed skin will be “boundless.”

Although still an unfortunate necessity for the development of pharmaceuticals, animal testing within the cosmetics industry has thankfully witnessed a decline over the years. Following pressure from the public and animal rights groups, as well as an outright ban in the European Union and several other countries, various beauty product giants have announced they’ve stamped out the practice.

While these moves were certainly welcomed by many, not least of which consumers and campaigners, safety assessments on products and their ingredients still need to be carried out, so how are they doing it? French company L’Oreal actually started a human skin factory back in the ‘80s where they would grow and analyze hundreds of thousands of samples each year from plastic surgery leftovers, including different ages and ethnicities, which they would also sell on to competitors. But it seems they want to up their game and hasten the process, so they’ve now teamed up with a bioengineering company, Organovo, so they can start 3D printing skin samples en masse and use these instead.

“Some of the biggest potential advantages are the speed of production as well as the level of precision that 3D printing can achieve,” Guive Balooch, global vice president of L’Oreal’s technology incubator told The Washington Post. “L’Oreal’s focus right now is not to increase the quantity of skin we produce but instead to continue to build on the accuracy and consistent replication of the skin engineering process.”

3D printed skin isn't actually the brainchild of L’Oreal, or Organovo; it was already being investigated as a possible treatment avenue for those with serious injuries or burns who need grafts. An abundance of other organs and tissues can be created using this technique, such as bladders, muscles and blood vessels, although solid organs like the heart are much more challenging due to its complex architecture. The process involves adding layers of human cells to molds made out of a substance called hydrogel, which allows them to be seeded and grown in a precise manner. But Organovo has opted for a slightly different method and assembles the tissues directly, without using scaffolds.

Although a joint statement from the companies didn’t give an indication as to when we can expect these skin samples to be rolled out and put to use in cosmetic safety tests, it is reported that L’Oreal aims to automate 3D printed skin production by 2020. L’Oreal will cough up for the initial phase and donate their scientists’ knowledge and expertise on dermatology, whereas Organovo will offer use of their technology.

The program is still in its planning stages but should it come to market, the cosmetics company will retain exclusive rights to the samples for use in non-prescription skin care products. Organovo, on the other hand, will have the right to sell the tissues for prescription drug and toxicity testing as well as for future organ transplants. The bioprinter has already partnered with Merk to create liver and kidney tissues (the first samples of which should be ready by next year) but this reportedly is the first time the beauty industry has employed such technology.

SOURCE: Organovo

The Beauty of Chamomile

Chamomile is a very popular herb and has many uses ranging from being a soothing, relaxing and calming tea to being an invaluable ingredient in many skincare products and toiletries. But what is so special about this herb and what is in it that imparts such amazing properties?

There are two main varieties of chamomile: German chamomile (Chamomilla recitita) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile). Both varieties are relaxing and gently soothing so they have a mildly sedating action and can relax nervous tension without undue sedation and side-effects. The difference lies inherently in their medicinal strength; German chamomile is stronger, more suited to reducing inflamed mucous membranes such as the gut, skin, mouth and respiratory tract whereas Roman chamomile is less bitter, more soothing to the lungs and more directly accelerating menstrual flow.

Both types are excellent for external use and can now be found in a wide variety of skincare preparations and toiletries. Medicinally however, a compress of the fresh, pulped flowers is used for lumbago, joints affected by gout, sciatica, nerve pain and local inflammation. It is one of the few herbs that is considered safe for children and is generally well tolerated. Both types are used interchangeably, particularly in skincare but due to stronger and more specific actions, medical herbalists will select that type that best suits the presenting complaint.

The flower heads of both varieties are uses to make a tea, tincture, cream, ointment or essential oil. The active constituents in chamomile are attributed to apigenin (German) and chamazulene (Roman) amongst other components such as flavonoids, tannins, phenolic acids and coumarins. These, in their whole form, act synergistically to confer health and cosmetic benefits associated with this herb. A particularly important component of the German chamomile is the volatile oil which contains alpha-bisabolol and proazulene which not only gives it the characteristic blue colour of the essential oil but also the anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties associated with this herb. 

Medicinal Uses: IBS, nausea, vomiting, irritability and fretfulness (especially in children), nervous tension, anxiety, insomnia, acid stomach, period pain, sciatica

Skincare (external) Uses: sore, inflamed skin, sunburn, eczema, psoriasis, very minor burns, scalds that do not require emergency treatment

Suggested Tips

Face: recommended for oily skin, deep cleansing, blackheads or problem skin (add a few drops of essential oil in a facial steam bath). Combines well with lavender for an anti-blemish night cream

Eyes: as a compress to soothe tired, sore and inflamed eyes

Hands: as a skin softener combined into a rich cream made with moisturising ingredients such as rosehip oil, evening primrose oil or avocado oil amongst others

Feet: use the fresh flower heads or the essential oils in a soothing foot bath

Hair: recommended for dry, sensitive hair, and as a colour enhancer for blonde/fair hair. It is a valuable ingredient in natural hair lightener preparations especially as a paste

Body: the infusion is great as a hair rinse. Try adding the dried flowers in a relaxing bath infusion or as a skin softening milk bath

Caution: Those who are allergic to the pollen of other members of the Asteraceae or sunflower family (eg. dandelion, ragweed) should take care. Chamomile can cause rare dermatitis and may interact with prescription drugs especially anticlotting agents. Seek professional advice from a medical herbalist or your doctor before self-medicating. You can find your nearest herbalist at: www.phytotherapists.org

A good night's sleep

The term beauty sleep is coined for a very good reason, not least of which is the fact that it is vital to good skin, health and well-being. The importance of sleep cannot be adequately emphasised. Current statistics put women at the top with regards to sleep disruption with 1 in 3 being affected by disrupted sleep or not being able to fall asleep. Regular lack of sleep has a profound impact on health and the long-term consequences can lead to depression, irritability, headaches, impaired reflexes, reduced mental alertness and physical tiredness amongst other symptoms. Sleep can be affected by a number of factors such as:

• Anxiety & worry
• Pain (various causes)
• Illness (various)
• Hot flushes & other menopausal symptoms
• Hormonal fluctuations (may affect production of melatonin, an important component in determining the circadian rhythm/body clock of the body)
• Mental illness eg. depression, anxiety, post-traumatic stress disorder
• Stress
• Other factors & outside influences eg. noisy neighbours, uncomfortable bed, partner who snores
• Medication
• Diet (quality of food and timing of meals)

Additionally, variable shift work has a negative effect on the body. A variable shift pattern does not allow the body to adapt sufficiently and this interferes with the natural body clock (the circadian rhythm). Consequently, hormones are disrupted and the body is in a constant state of change. It’s a bit like being in a perpetual state of jet lag which, on any long-term basis, is not beneficial at all to the body. The solutions to tackling disrupted sleep depends very much on the nature of the problem, establishing a cause and effect and deep-rooted issues which may require specialist help such as counselling for depression, specific help for emotional trauma etc… Some of the strategies could involve the following:

1. Examining diet and lifestyle
2. Adopting a holistic approach to the problem. Examine all aspects of: - Mind (mental well-being)
   -Body (physical well-being)
   -Spiritual well-being
   -Psychological well-being

    3. Other measures to relax & unwind
    4. Effective pain management
    5. Meditation, tai chi & other stress-busting measures

Other intervention eg: counselling, massage, hypnotherapy, reflexology etc…

Diet is an integral part of ensuring we get a good night’s sleep. Some of the foods to avoid and some foods that need to be increased are highlighted below:

Foods to avoid	Increase intake of these foods
Biscuits, cakes, chocolates & others foods that are high in refined sugars	Green vegetables except spinach
Coffee, tea, cola drinks, chocolate drinks & fizzy drinks (too much caffeine)	Lettuce (natural sedative)
Red meats, rich creamy dishes & cheese (high in protein & difficult to digest especially late at night)	Porridge (slow-release carbohydrate will regulate sugar and energy levels)
Spicy dishes, curry or oriental foods (can cause heartburn which will disturb sleep)	sunflower and pumpkin seeds (high in magnesium – will relax muscles, relieve stress and promote sleep)
Alcohol & tobacco (disrupts body processes and generally bad for health)	Wholegrain foods & other low glycaemic index (GI) foods (eg. wholewheat foods, brown rice, oats). These regulate blood sugar levels, calm & soothe the gut & nervous system.
Bacon, ham, sausages, sauerkraut, spinach & tomatoes (all increase adrenaline which will keep the body alert at night so that it is difficult to get to sleep)	Increase complex carbohydrates in wholefoods (eg. pasta) boosts serotonin levels which in turn promotes sleep. Serotonin is regarded as the body’s natural relaxant & antidepressant.
	Cottage cheese, turkey, yoghurt, bananas & avocado (foods high in tryptophan which is the precursor to serotonin. This in turn promotes sleep.

Lifestyle changes also need to be made in cases of stress, lack of exercise and other issues such as emotional trauma, depression, anxiety and worry. Examples of appropriate measures include:Stress management – stress has a huge impact on the quantity and quality of sleep. 

• Stress busting measures will not only address the physical effects of stress but also ensures mental and psychological well-being, which in turn will enable proper sleep. Good examples of stress management techniques are yoga, meditation, aerobic exercise, recreational pursuits, hobbies or simply socialising with friends. All are great ways to combat stress. This will restore efficient functioning of body processes such as hormone regulation which, if disrupted, has a profound and negative impact on sleep.

• Exercise – regular, aerobic exercise is a great way to combat the negative effects of stress, depression or anxiety, all of which affect sleep. In addition to the physical and mental benefits of exercise, sleep will be more regulated as the body can become tired at regular times due to exercise and this will encourages a proper sleep pattern. A calm and relaxed body and mind will positively promote sleep.
• Herbal help – many have sought relief from a range of herbal supplements, teas, herbal remedies and OTC preparations specifically designed to calm, soothe, relax and sedate the mind and body. Notable herbs include chamomile tea, hops, valerian, passion flower, lemon balm, Californian poppy, lettuce and St. John’s Wort amongst others. These are considered to be herbal sedatives and hypnotics, all of which promote sleep. Their advantage over prescription drugs is that they promote better attributes of sleep without the unwanted side effects such as feelings of grogginess the morning after. Before self-medicating however, it is strongly advisable that the true cause of sleep disturbances is correctly identified so that important issues such as depression, anxiety or emotional trauma does not go undiagnosed and effective treatment is sought. This will eventually have the effect of indirectly resolving any sleep disorders which may well be a symptom of these underlying problems.

Extracts from Modern Living, Holistic Health & Herbal Medicine (2011) by Yaso Shan. Published by Booklocker Inc USA. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Modern-Living-Holistic-Health-Medicine/dp/1609106393