Out of Africa

A growing trend in skincare, cosmetics and beauty products is a shift from chemical formulations to those based on botanical ingredients with many beauty companies turning to Africa to find buzz-worthy ingredients. Africa boasts a long lived tradition of creating skin and hair care recipes from the natural ingredients provided by its rich and varied landscape.  As these ingredients gain popularity in commercial formulations, they have also become readily available to natural skin and hair care artisans, lending a fresh perspective on these traditional ingredients.  Even the big international cosmetics companies are tapping into the secrets that Mother Nature has so very kindly bestowed upon us and are seeking natural, botanical ingredients - a far cry from the technological revolution in skincare based on cutting edge chemicals and anti-ageing miracle gems. Perhaps the biggest cosmetics success story to come out of Africa is Moroccanoil (http://www.moroccanoil.com/united-kingdom/countryselector), a hair-and skin-care company that features argan oil, a now ubiquitous ingredient in many a chemists' and department store beauty shelves. Though the brand gets its argan oil from all over the world, not just Morocco, where the argan tree is indigenous, its success has helped ignite interest in other raw materials found in Africa, such as baobab-tree extract, moringa seed oil and shea nut butter. Shea butter is nothing new to the beauty-savvy consumer; the women of Ghana collect the shea nuts which is widely used in botanical skincare products. One of the best suppliers of shea butter products in the UK is Shea Butter Cottage (http://akuawood.co.uk/)

This is not just a fad, this is a global trend. At one time shea and cocoa butters from Africa were mysterious ingredients touted to have remarkable softening and healing properties for the skin.  So was green tea, which has been used by Japanese women for centuries to soften the skin and target wrinkles. Aloe vera, believed to have originated in the Sudan, is said to be soothing, healing and moisturising to the skin. All of these ingredients can be found in modern skin care products.  Cosmetic and skin care companies continue to mine the world’s indigenous plants and trees for natural products. I have previously written about such exotic ingredients in an earlier post on global beauty traditions: http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/global-beauty-traditions.html  Other useful ingredients gaining popularity include the following:

AVOCADO OIL

Avocado Oil is a rich, moisturising ingredient that is also great for dry skin formulations, and intensive hair treatments.  It is an incredibly popular ingredient for soap making being high in vitamins A, B1, B2, B5 (Panthothenic acid), Vitamin D, E, minerals, protein, lecithin and fatty acids. Avocado Oil makes a nutritive addition to skin and hair care formulas.  Avocado Oil can be a little heavy, so use it sparingly in light formulations such as facial recipes or massage oils.  Use it liberally in moisturising soaps, intensive conditioners, and balms.

AFRICAN MANGO
The Mango Fruit Diet is the latest health craze to sweep the planet. So move over acai berries, pomegranate and hybrid broccoli, because the African Mango has arrived. Hailed as the latest ‘superfood’, the protein-rich seeds from this Cameroon-based fruit promise to lower blood fat levels and raise your metabolism – resulting in weight loss and lower cholesterol without having to change your diet. With a burgeoning obesity crisis in the UK, this may well be our saving grace.

ARGAN OIL

Argan oil comes from the fruit of the argan tree, native to Morocco. It is used to reduce blemishes, reduce scars left by acne, prevent stretch marks, moisturise and relieve chapped and dry skin. It’s also used to protect skin elasticity and promote healthy skin and hair.  I have previously written extensively about the history of this amazing oil and skincare product (http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/exploring-hype-argan-oil.html). 

BAOBAB OIL

Baobab oil is derived from seeds of the baobab tree native to eastern and southern Africa.  Baobab oil has been used in African skin care for centuries as a rub to relieve aches and rheumatism. In Zambia, an infusion of the roots was used to bathe babies to promote smooth skin. It is a moisturising ingredient used in products for skin and hair and is said to improve elasticity and encourage regeneration of skin cells. It doesn’t clog pores, which makes it an excellent ingredient for products for eczema and psoriasis. Baobab Oil is golden in colour, with a light, nutty aroma.  It contains a high level of essential fatty acids, as well as a nutritive boost of vitamins A, D, and E.  Baobab Oil is great for moisturising both skin and hair.  It can help to improve elasticity, regenerate cells, all the while leaving pores clean and clear.  An excellent ingredient for eczema or psoriasis, Baobab Oil continues to be a boon to the natural skin care industry, as it has for centuries in Africa. With six-times more vitamin C than an orange, twice as much calcium than milk, six-times more potassium than a banana, AND four-times more antioxidants than other dried berries – it has plenty to boast about. 

MARULA OIL

Marula Oil is an all-natural, cold pressed, highly nutritious, light textured oil. Hand harvested by omen in village collectives from the exotic fruit seed kernels of bio dynamic and drought resistant Marula trees, indigenous to Southern Africa and Madagascar. The geographic position on the west edge of Southern Africa gives rise to certain climatic characteristics. The low rainfall and endless hours of bright sunshine create the perfect environment - unlike any other in the world - to produce exceptional growing conditions for the Marula trees to bear their annual fruit. This delicious fruit contains 4 times as much Vitamin C as an orange. Marula leaves and bark have wonderful properties but the skin care properties of natural Marula Oil are perhaps the best of all. This healing oil is widely used for its medicinal benefits by Southern African women and men and has been part of numerous beauty rituals for centuries to protect the skin and hair from the harsh and dry weather conditions.Today’s modern scientific research reveals and confirms the secrets of Marula Oil. This multipurpose oil contains  powerful antioxidants, high concentrations of nutrients, minerals and essential fatty acids that protect against environmental aggressors, reverse photodamage, boost cellular activity, hydrate at the deepest levels and repair the skin. The anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties of Marula Oil reduce
the need for preservatives. Marula Oil has a clear, pale, golden-brown colour with a pleasant sweet aroma.

Scientific Evidence
Marula Oil contains high levels of important anti-oxidants including, Vitamin C, tocopherol (vitamin E), tochotrienol, phenolic compounds, essential amino acids and flavonoids that help cells renew and resist damaging effects of the environment. With regular use, Marula Oil delivers advanced protection against photoageing - neutralising free radicals, helping build collagen, and providing antioxidant protection. More anti-oxidant protection means more youthful looking skin and better defence against
premature skin ageing. Marula Oil is ideal for dull, ageing skin, under-nourished skin and frequent travellers. Marula Oil is rich in essential fatty acids Omega 9-oleic and Omega 6-linoleic that deeply hydrate and reduce redness while nourishing, healing, moisturising and improving skin elasticity. Marula Oil reduces trans epidermal water loss and increases the smoothness of skin. Easily absorbed, Marula Oil supports the natural build up of the skin’s lipid layers and possesses anti- inflammatory properties. Marula Oil is ideal for dry, dehydrated, sensitive, sun damaged skin, post-treatment, stretchmarks and scar tissue while providing nutrition to the skin. Amongst its many properties, is also:

• softens & minimises the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles.
• improves & restores skin elasticity for a more youthful & radiant skin.
• improves skin tone & firmness.
• soothes irritation.

Marula Oil is fast absorbing, light, and has a non-greasy texture. The key to Marula’s outstanding performance is its fine molecular structure, which contributes to its effectiveness not only as a skin hydrator but also as a protector. Marula Oil is pH balanced, non-comedogenic and has anti-microbial properties which can help heal acne blemishes and scarring. It is appropriate for all skin types.

Chemical Structure
Marula Oil contains a large proportion of monounsaturated fatty acids and natural antioxidants which make the oil very stable. The fatty acid composition of marula oil includes: mono-unsaturated fatty acids:

• Oleic acid (70-78 %)
• Polyunsaturated fatty acids: Linoleic acid (4.0-7.0 %),
• Alpha-linolenic acid (0.1-0.7 %)
• Saturated fatty acids: Palmitic acid (9-12 %), 
• Stearic acid (5.0-8.0 %),
• Arachidonic acid (0.3-0.7 %)
• Other components include: tocopherols, sterols and flavonoids with antioxidant action, procyanidin, galattotannin and catechins are also found in Marula Oil.

Ethical Trade
This miracle oil nourishes not only our beautiful skin, but also the communities that produce it. Marula Oil is nature’s gift that contributes to rural and social development. Our Marula Oil is proudly sourced in South Africa through a Fair Trade program that supports women in village collectives, protects the environment and Marula trees. In South Africa there are a number of eco-friendly, low-tech enterprises designed to empower and uplift women in rural communities and provide a sustainable income for families in the tribal lands.Passed down from generations, women have cracked the nut of the Marula fruit to extract precious kernels from which the oil is made. This hand pressed process gives the oil its purity.The Marula trees are protected in South Africa where strict policies are in place to ensure environmentally friendly treatment and sustainable harvesting of Marula trees and fruit. This means that each item bearing the African Botanics (one of the finest producers of marula oil) name has a proud heritage of environmental responsibility and community care.

MANKETTI/MONGONGO OIL
Manketti Oil, or Mongongo Oil, is derived from trees that grow throughout the African continent.  The nuts of this tree produce a highly emollient oil that can help protect the skin from harsh winds and dry climates.  It is used in a traditional Kwangali hair oil treatment, and makes an excellent ingredient for moisturizing formulations such as body butters, salves, balms, and ointments.

MORINGA OIL
Moringa oil(Moringa oleifera), also known as behen oil, comes from the moringa tree, or “miracle tree,” and was used in ancient cultures for its healing properties. Those properties must have been a bit of a miracle, because ancient Egyptians placed vases of moringa oil in their tombs. Moringa oil can be found in lotions, balms, and scrubs. It is light in texture, but carries a lot of weight in the world of natural skin care and medicine.  Its potent antioxidants have made Moringa Oil a sought after ingredient, even by ancient cultures.  Today, the oil is popular for use in massage and aromatherapy applications.  It also makes a great addition to light lotions, creams, and body or hair oils.

PAPAYA OIL

Papaya Oil is high in oleic acid, making it a highly moisturising oil.  Its moisturising properties, paired with its light texture make Papaya Oil an ideal ingredient for skin and hair care.  Papaya Oil can be used in almost any kind of formulation.  Use Papaya Oil in light lotions and creams, body scrubs, and hair conditioners or oils.  Papaya Oil also makes a great massage oil.

PASSION FLOWER OIL
Maracuja (Passion Flower) Oil is an exceptional ingredient for personal care.  It contains a huge amount of Vitamin C, a component not often found in skin care ingredients.  Vitamin C can help to energise skin's appearance, adding an extra punch to facial formulations.  Maracuja is also highly moisturising and rich in fatty acids, calcium, and phosphorous.  Its light texture makes it extremely versatile. It can be used in facial serums, creams, lotions, lip balms, or even hair care products.

ROOIBOS
Rooibos (“red bush”) tea has been used for years in South African medicine to treat acne, eczema, sunburns and other skin irritations. It contains alpha hydroxy acids and antioxidants.  It can be found in moisturizers and facial toners.  Indigenous to South Africa, the rooibos plant has been consumed as a tasty tea for centuries due to its healing benefits. Now, it’s making a name for itself in the beauty industry – and it’s not hard to see why. Packed with anti-oxidants and minerals to prevent premature ageing, zinc (essential to the skin’s metabolism), and its own natural alphahydroxy acid to smooth and refines fine lines and wrinkles), this plant also helps with sensitive and problematic skin conditions. AND it makes for a delicious and refreshing cup of tea!

SHEA BUTTER

Natural, unrefined Shea butter not only benefits the hair, but also the skin – both in butters and oils. Extracted from the nut of the African Shea tree, it moisturises, has natural sun protection qualities, helps heals cuts and burns, minimises stretch marks and helps treat skin ailments such as eczema and very dry skin. One of the best suppliers of shea butter products in the UK is Shea Butter Cottage (http://akuawood.co.uk/)

TAMANU OIL

Tamanu oil is made from crushing the dried nuts of the tamanu tree, which is found in Pacific and Asia tropical regions. It soothes the skin, relieves irritations including sunburn, inflammation and rashes.  It is hydrating and helps regenerate skin cells.  It is used undiluted as a treatment for eczema, psoriasis, cuts and wounds.  A small percentage is added to lip balms and lotions.

WATERMELON SEED OIL
Kalahari (Watermelon Seed) Oil is also known as Ootonga Oil in Africa.  It has a delightfully light texture while being highly moisturising, making it a versatile ingredient in both hair and skin care.  Kalahari Seed Oil can help to restore skins elasticity, and is often used in belly oils and balms for expecting mothers.  The oil is also popular for use as an alternative to mineral baby oils.  Kalahari Oil is an excellent conditioner of both the hair and skin.  It is great for use in scrubs, soaps, and light lotions and hair oils.

YANGU OIL
Yangu Oil, also called Cape Chestnut Oil is a traditional ingredient in African Skin Care.  Generations of African people have used natural Yangu Oil to condition their hair and skin.  It is currently a popular ingredient in cosmetics and bath & body products due to its high content of essential fatty acids.  Yangu Oil may also provide a degree of ultra violet protection.  It makes an excellent ingredient for soaps, lotions, shampoo bars, hair conditioners, or balms.

Summary

Many commercial facial oils now include some or all of these more exotic ingredients due to their amazing and superior skincare properties over the more commonly and widely available alternatives. I have previously written about the benefits of facial oils in an earlier post:http://centella-skincare.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/facial-oils.html The use of these plant oils from Africa remains controversial as there is certainly a pressing need for sustainability of the ecology and environment of Africa. Deforestation is taking place at an alarming rate, and this situation will continue to escalate unless local communities can be given a sufficiently attractive and viable reason to look after their forests and animals. The development of international markets for the tree seed oils is a major step towards solving this growing dilemma. In Zambia the development of sustainable harvest systems and market outlets for the highly valued indigenous tree seed oils, along with the establishment of sustainable wild harvest for ‘non-timber forest products’ to accredited international certification criteria has enable sustainable livelihoods for large numbers of disadvantaged rural communities from indigenous plant products at the same time as helping to maintain the natural environment.

References
African Botanics: http://www.africanbotanics.com/ 
Out of Africa: http://www.outofafricashea.com/
Shea Butter Cottage: http://akuawood.co.uk/ 
Planet Botanicals: http://www.planetbotanicals.com/products/sheabodyoil.html