Jojoba Oil

Jojoba oil is a MUST in any skincare regime but more so in the natural skincare industry. It is no surprise it is highly sought after for formulations given its unique chemical properties. It is a versatile oil and has many uses beyond skincare. This post looks at why jojoba oil has enjoyed a longevity in many industries, particularly the skincare one and why new possibilities are opening up for this amazing oil.

Skin health is maintained by an oily (waxy) secretion called sebum; 25-30% of the skin's sebum is made up of wax esters. The prime role of wax esters is to hold moisture in the skin, which keeps skin looking and feeling firm. As we hit our early 20's, our production of wax esters starts to decrease, allowing moisture to escape from skin cells. This begins the ageing process of skin. Jojoba is the only plant known to produce wax esters similar to those in our skin. Jojoba is naturally hypoallergenic and contains powerful antioxidants, Omega 6 & 9 fatty acids, and Vitamins A, D and E. Remarkably, when applied to  skin, the wax esters in jojoba provide similar nurturing and moisturising properties as our own sebum. Skin recognises jojoba as its own and lets it in to deliver active ingredients into the deeper layers of our skin. 

A Remarkable Molecule
The natural wax esters found within jojoba are similar to the wax esters found in our skin. This can be seen when you compare the molecular structure of jojoba with the wax esters found in our skin. Pure jojoba provides the same protective a nd nurturing benefits to our skin as it does to its own plant cells.
The seeds (nuts) of jojoba that come from the jojoba plant contain up to 60% of their weight in oil, which is best isolated by cold pressing of the seeds.   The golden ‘jojoba oil’ obtained is really not an ‘oil’, but a ‘ liquid wax’.  Its structure is devoid of glycerine, the backbone in the structure of all oils and fats.  Jojoba liquid wax is called an oil only because it is a liquid.

• Jojoba oil is a clear, golden-colored, unsaturated liquid wax with no scent or greasy feel. Jojoba oil gives little or no calories when consumed as it does not have any large amounts of the fatty acids which are normally in the structure of fats and oils. This liquid wax remains a lubricant in the digestive system and definitely has no cholesterol.  However, the word oil is used because it is simpler to accept due to the fact that it looks like an oil, and the word liquid wax is not as easy to accept for the consumers

• Different than jojoba oil, plant oils and solid fats are triglycerides with a glycerine backbone from which different fatty acid branch out – like a tree.  To emphasise further the differences, jojoba oil  is only called an oil because it is a liquid-like.  Jojoba oil is a straight 42 carbon atom chain unsaturated ester of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, each of which is made up of 20-21 carbon atoms and thus the fatty acids in jojoba oil are not 16-18 carbon atoms of the fatty acids commonly found and known in various oils and fats.  

The Major Uses for Jojoba Oil:
Jojoba oil uses may be summed up in three main categories:

1. Natural cosmetic uses by using it "as-is", as if it is a liquid cream, a hair oil, or massage oil.
2. Industrial cosmetic uses, by using it as an improver and constituent of shampoos, conditioners, body lotions, creams, soaps, lipstick, etc.
3. As an industrial oil, as an improver of lubrication oils of cars, aeroplanes and various machines, and also as a surfactant improver of paints, varnishes, plastics, waxes, etc.  In waxing, it can be used "as-is" or mixed with other waxes. 

The uses of jojoba oil were initially limited for its use as-is for treatment and beautification of facial complexion and hair and then it was included in the various cosmetic industries. The jojoba oil which is obtained as a second grade oil from the remaining by-products of the jojoba seed pressing using chemical extraction by hexane or cyclohexane  solvents of jojoba cake residue (called jifit) is used only for industrial uses, mainly lubricants.  These uses include waxing of materials, and the improvement of car oil as jojoba oil withstands high motor oil temperature.  This is so because of the high boiling point of jojoba oil which is 389 degrees Celcius.  It has a great capacity to prevent oil oxidation and it is effective in preserving car motor oil's viscosity and that of other motors for a long period which in turn increases the motor life, and its efficiency under the high temperature and pressure uses.  About 50 ml of jojoba oil per litre of the car's motor oil or transmission oil is generally used to extend the use of car oil to 20,000 kilometres of driving before it has to be changed.

Therefore, with the need for huge quantities of jojoba oil for the lubrication industry, especially for cars and aeroplanes, even if huge land areas in various parts of the world are planted with jojoba, the oil produced from it will not be sufficient to meet all the needs of various industrial uses. All this in addition to the special and unique utilization of jojoba oil to treatment of skin diseases and the various industrial cosmetic uses as that of shampoos and the many creams for beautification of face and hair and the prevention of facial and neck wrinkles.  Jojoba oil in all of these cosmetic uses is more superior and distinctive over seed plants oil and animal fats and the many synthetic chemical substances which are added to cosmetics for their marketing using costly advertisements.

Jojoba oil use as a cooking oil remains limited because of its high cost and it seems it will remain relatively expensive for some time because the quantities produced worldwide from jojoba trees are very limited.

Q. Why should one use Jojoba Oil, and what are its benefits?

Q. What are the general scientific benefits?

There is a justified trend world-wide to use natural products because of the fear of introducing carcinogenic changes in the human body and on the skin through  synthetic chemicals.  Jojoba seed oil is natural and when produced organically is safe for the human body.  Its major use "as-is" for facial and hair cosmetic products is desired as an effective and good selling point for such products because of the following:

Because it penetrates into skin rapidly without leaving any oily traces within only a few seconds as it is a straight unsaturated ester chain of fatty alcohols and fatty acids which is unlike the branched fatty oils. Also, jojoba oil resembles the oil of the skin known as sebum.  It is so immediate in this rapid penetration that one may think it evaporated, but really it did enter the skin – and what enters the skin is what really gives a true benefit.  Thus, this oil keeps the skin and hair from drying.  It is a reliable remedy against nappy rash for babies.

• Jojoba oil prevents chapping and rash, and prevents wrinkle formation if used as a night cream.  
• For the hair, it keeps it smooth and silky with a slight shine and prevents hair fall-out.  
• For massage, it is soothing and relaxing and helps in the relief of pain.

Jojoba oil which is chemically a liquid wax, as mentioned previously, is mostly undigested and because it is edible, it can act as a lubricant to the digestive system without being degraded into calories.  Thus, when used in frying and cooking it is a diet oil.  Only organic, i.e. chemically-free, jojoba oil as that of the natural Palestinian jojoba oil should be used in cooking foods and in salads because it is free of all chemicals and 100% natural.  Again, because of its property that it does not boil up to the very high temperature of 389 degrees Celcius because it has high concentrations of the antioxidant tocopherols of the Vitamin E group. ,

Jojoba: A Potential Desert Oil Crop

Jojoba is a new oil-producing industrial crop that has attracted much attention in recent years. Jojoba oil is unique in nature. No other plant is known to produce oil like jojobas. It is used in the cosmetic, medical, pharmaceutical, food products, manufacturing, and automotive industries (as lubricant). And it is a renewable energy resource. It is remarkable to note that, in spite of the variability in size or where grown, each jojoba seed contains an average of 50% pure oil by volume. Jojoba is native to the semiarid regions of southern Arizona, southern California and northwestern Mexico. Now Jojoba is being cultivated in Israel and Rajasthan, India to provide a renewable source of unique high-quality oil. Much of the interest in jojoba worldwide is the result of the plant's ability to survive in a harsh desert environment. Jojoba can be grown as an oil-producing cash crop. Jojoba is very drought-resistant and can be grown on marginal lands without replacing any existing crops. Fully mature shrubs or trees can reach a height of 15 feet with a potential natural life span of 100 to 200 years depending on environmental conditions. For optimum production, the crop needs irrigation, care, and a good cultivar.

The arid lands of Rajasthan are all set to usher in a revolution in Indian agriculture, with planned large-scale cultivation of the exotic jojoba plant. Rajasthan government has allotted 110 hectareof wastelands including 70 hectares at Fatehpur in Sikar district and 40 hectares at Dhand in Jaipur district for jojoba plantation.   Jojoba plantation project was formulated in 1995 for a period of five years, with a revised financial outlay of around 670000 USD to be met by central assistance. Jojoba in the country is now being grown in an estimated area of about 500 hectare and the area is increasing every year. The production estimate for this plantation is 25 million tonne. About 90% of the jojoba cultivation is in Rajasthan.

Technologists and scientists believe that jojoba oil shows a lot of promise as an alternative source of fuel. It releases a lot of energy when it burns. The driving force to find such fuel source stems from the need to find an alternative fuel to petroleum oil. In addition to this, the renaewable nature of jojoba is a very attractive prospect indeed and it can produce less pollution. Jojoba oil also appears to be promising with regards to its cultivation in the relatively hot weather. Considering Jojoba’s potential as an oilseed feedstock for biodiesel, it is possible to establish this untapped resource as an alternative source for the biodiesel industry of future.

The History of Jojoba
Jojoba began receiving serious attention in the early 1970’s, with the enactment of the Endangered Species Act.  The Sperm Whale, considered an endangered species under the parameters set up by this Act, became protected to the extent that no sperm whale oil could be imported into the US.  Up until then we had been importing 55 million gallons of the oil each year.  Sperm whale oil is currently stockpiled, for use in national emergencies.  The head of the Sperm Whale contains vast quantities of sperm oil (actually an unsaturated wax) and a solid white wax called spermaceti.  The Sperm Whale’s blubber contains ever more sperm oil.  A large Sperm Whale can yield several tons of the oil and the
wax.

Without the Sperm Whale as a source of these materials, a search for substitutes began.  Synthetic substitutes are difficult to produce, so other natural sources were investigated.  A fish known as the Orange Roughy makes a similar oil, but it has been so overfished that it could not be counted on as a long term solution.  The Jojoba plant was considered too.  People have been using Jojoba for a long time. Early Spanish explorers found Native Americans roasting the seeds for a coffee-like beverage, and observed them squeezing oil from the seeds for use as a hair dressing and medicine.  Mexican historian Francisco Clavijero was the first person to write about the species in 1789, and used the word “Jojoba”.  It probably is a corruption of the Native peoples’ name for the plant.  It has been known since 1933 that its seeds contain an oil (50% by weight) almost identical in chemical composition to sperm whale oil.  Prior to the Endangered Species Act, however, it was more economical to get the oil from the Sperm Whale.  Interestingly, Jojoba was seriously considered as a source of oil earlier.  Experimental plantings were established at the Boyce Thompson Southwestern Arboretum in Superior Arizona in 1925, and Jojoba oil was used during WW II in motors and transmissions for military equipment.  After the war ended, petroleum became plentiful, and Jojoba oil use declined.  Jojoba is the only plant known to produce this oil, composed of fatty alcohols and fatty acids instead of glycerol and fatty acids like most oils.

Today there are an amazing number of potential uses for Jojoba oil.  They include: cosmetics, lubricants for everything from artificial hearts to watches, motors, and transmissions, low-calorie cooking oil that does not become rancid, antifoaming agents in fermentation, candle wax, polishes, coatings for fruits and pills, insulation for batteries and wires, varnishes and paints, detergents, plastics and resins, leather softeners, transformer coolants, and more.  Despite all these potential uses, almost all the Jojoba oil produced goes to the cosmetics industry for use in lotions and shampoos.  At hundreds of dollars per gallon, few other uses are economically feasible.  In fact, even the cosmetic industry uses other natural oils and petroleum products as substitutes for Jojoba oil.  Petroleum is very inexpensive by comparison.  Many believe that if the price of Jojoba oil would drop, many new markets for it would open.

Native Americans extracted the oil from jojoba seeds to treat sores and wounds centuries ago. Collection and processing of seed from naturally occurring stands in the early 1970s marked the beginning of jojoba domestication. In addition, the ban on the importation of sperm whale products in 1971 led to the discovery that jojoba oil is in many regards superior to sperm oil for applications in the cosmetics and other industries.

Today, 40,000 acres of jojoba are under cultivation in the southwestern U.S. Much of the interest in jojoba worldwide is the result of the plant's ability to survive in a harsh desert environment. The utilization of marginal land that will not support more conventional agricultural crops could become a major asset to the global agricultural economy. The oldest commercial jojoba plantings in the U.S. were established in the late 1970s, and present production of jojoba oil is in the range of thousands of tons per year. The major world producers are the United States and Mexico, with considerable quantities of oil being exported to Japan and Europe.

Why is Jojoba oil so expensive?
Collecting the seeds from wild stands is very time consuming, and the harvest is unreliable from year to year.  The commercial growing of Jojoba began in earnest in the 1970's.  Native Americans (Apaches, with Federal subsidies) and traditional farmers started the first Jojoba plantations.  But, get-rich-quick schemes attracted a wide assortment of individuals into the Jojoba growing business.  Most efforts failed, and that put a damper on the whole industry.  There were several reasons for the failures in what could have been a successful industry.  There was limited information on the cultivation techniques necessary to make large-scale plantations profitable. Insect and disease control, fertilization and irrigation needs, harvesting strategies and frost damage prevention had to be learned on a trial and error basis as the crop grew.  The single most limiting factor, however, was the low yield of Jojoba plants grown from seeds collected from wild stands of the species.  There were no cultivars selected for agricultural production available to those early growers.  A bit of Jojoba botany will illustrate the problem.  Jojoba shrubs are dioecious, meaning there are male and female plants.  Breeding and selecting superior male plants (that produce abundant pollen) and superior female plants (that produce abundant seeds) has been a slow process.  Once superior plants are identified, they can be cloned by vegetative propagation and planted on a large scale.  A field ratio of one cloned male for every 10-20 cloned females would significantly increase the yield as compared to a seed grown field with a male to female ratio of 1:1.  An improved yield could earn more profits for the growers, and reduce the cost of the oil for the buyers.  There is still a dire need for research on crop production and improvement. There is some activity in this area at the University of Arizona in Tucson, and the University of California at Riverside.  Jojoba oil production is nevertheless increasing.  In the 1970’s, several thousand acres were being cultivated in the US. In the 1980’s, 25,000 acres were being grown.  In the 1990’s that increased to 40,000 acres, and today it approaches 50,000 acres.  As the oil has found markets outside of the US, including Europe, Asia, and Australia, foreign production has begun.

Jojoba is now commercially grown in Argentina, Australia, Mexico, Israel, and India.

Biotechnology may offer a way to produce Jojoba oil in other plants at competitive prices.  The genes that code for the enzymes involved in Jojoba oil biosynthesis have been identified and inserted into transgenic plants.  The intention is to develop Jojoba oil producing plants that can easily be grown in conventional agricultural systems.  Time will tell if this will be practical.  The Jojoba story is far from over.  It may just be in its infancy.  The plant’s versatile oil can be produced in a sustainable, renewable, and environmentally friendly manner.  There are many potential markets for it that have yet to be developed.  As our ability to produce it becomes more efficient, we will undoubtedly hear more about Jojoba.  One wonders how many other plants in nature, currently overlooked, may be important to us in the future.

Website References:
http://www.jojobassaf.com/whatIsJojobaOil.html 
http://faculty.ucc.edu/biology-ombrello/POW/jojoba.htm
http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/afcm/jojoba.html

Information Sources:

• Benzioni, A. and M. Forti. 1989. Jojoba. Pages 448-461 in Oil Crops of the World. G. Robbelen, R.K. Downey, and A. Ashri (eds.) McGraw-Hill Publishing Company; New York. 553 pages.
• Bloomfield, Frena. 1985. Jojoba and Yucca. Century Hutchinson Publishing, London.
• Foster, K.E., M.M. Karpiscak, J.G. Taylor and N.G. Wright. 1983. Guayule, jojoba, buffalo gourd and Russian thistle: Plant characteristics, products and commercialization potential. Desert Plants 5(3):112-126.
• Jojoba Growers Association. 1990. Jojoba Happenings, Newsletter of the Association. Phoenix, Arizona.
• National Research Council. 1985. Jojoba: New Crop for Arid Lands, New Raw Material for Industry. National Academy Press, Washington, D.C.
• Naqvi, H.H., G. Goldstein, C. Ratnayake, T. Ceccardi, and I.P. Ting. 1988. Jojoba breeding and agronomic investigations at UC Riverside. Proceedings: Seventh International Conference on Jojoba and Its Uses. A.R. Baldwin (ed.) American. 
• Weiss E.A. 1983. Crambe, niger and jojoba. Pages 507-527 in Oilseed Crops. Longman; London. 
• Yermanos, D.M. 1979. Jojoba: A crop whose time has come. California Agriculture. July-August 1979. pp. 4-11.

Vitamin D for skin health

I never thought I would ever be writing about a deficiency disease in a western country but the last few years have seen a steady increase in the number of cases of rickets in children and osteomalacia in adults as a consequence of vitamin D deficiency. Whilst this is surprising, given the relative abundance of foods in the UK (compared to the poverty stricken nations of the developing world where rickets in children is still an issue), very few people realise that getting this vitamin from food is actually only a part of the acquisition process of this essential micronutrient. To appreciate the true importance of this vital vitamin, we need to understand its role in the body and the consequences of not having enough of it, particularly on a long term basis.

Vitamin D is not only a nutrient, it is also a hormone. It is made from an essential component of cholesterol and therefore a key constituent in steroid hormones; cholesterol is needed for the production of the male and female sex hormones (oestrogens and androgens). Crucially however, vitamin D is needed for the absorption of calcium which is essential in growing children in order to strengthen their developing bones. A failure to absorb calcium leads to the classic hallmarks of rickets or 'bow legs' that develop when the weight-being joints (hips, backbone and knees) and associated bones cannot support the increasing weight of the developing body. Vitamin D in the form of D3 (or cholecalciferol) is one of the many naturally-occuring vitamins. The greatest source of this vitamin is the sun, being made upon the skin being exposed to the sun (hence the term 'sunshine vitamin'). It is the UVB rays (ultraviolet B) that convert cholesterol to vitamin D3. Darker skins need more UVB due to the protective elements of melanin; the rays have to penetrate the skin deeper in order to have the same effect as in a fair-skinned person. Direct exposure is necessary so sitting indoors is not good enough as the glass offers some filtering and depending on the type of glass, UVB may not even get through. 2-3 exposures of sunlight per week (20-30minutes an episode) in the summer months (April-September) is the recommended dose to achieve healthy vitamin D levels that last through the year. This is not the same as sunbathing and possibly not in the afternoon as the sun is much stronger at this time of day and can burn the skin. Morning sun is best.

In its hormonal role, vitamin D3 (now referred to as calcitrol) produces a steroid hormone called secosteroid which pays an important part in the regulation of the levels of calcium and phosphorus (another important mineral for the body). Vitamin D3 also helps to regulate bone mineralisation.

What's really shocking is that even health professionals are unaware of the government's guidelines and health education programme on this need to advise patients on vitamin D intake. Given that the issue of rickets in UK children was highlighted as a concern over 2-3 years ago, it is worrying to learn that even more recently, professionals remain ignorant of the need to educate and inform. What has really brought this issue to the forefront of course is a legal case against parents of a child who died of rickets (diagnosed after death) being wrongly accused of murder. Even senior radiologists were unable to spot the clinical features of rickets which was later attributed as the cause of death.

At risk groups:

• pregnant women
• breast-fed babies (infant formula has been fortified with vitamin D)
• young children (especially those under 5 years of age)
• dark-skinned individuals
• elderly people who are housebound
• those who are ill & bed-ridden
• those who stay indoors a lot
• those who cover up (for religious, cultural or other reasons)

Other diseases linked to lack of vitamin D:

• cardiomyopathy (a disease of the heart muscle) - babies
• hypocalcemic fits ((low serum calcium levels) - babies
• SIDS (sudden infant death syndrome)

Fear of Skin Cancer?

Recent fears over skin cancers and excessive sun exposure has probably contributed to the concern over exposing children to direct sunlight. Over the years, recommendations have always focussed on the risks of sunlight in favour of its enormous benefits and this increase in cases of rickets may well be a consequence of the advice being taken too far.

Use of Sunscreens

Many parents worry about the damaging effects of the sun but this is only possible if adequate precaution is not taken eg. over exposure in strong sunlight (between 10am-4pm in the summer months) for long periods of time, not in short bursts. Over protectiveness and a fear of danger which stops children playing outside and the excesive use of sunscreen has probably contributed to the health issues associated with a lack of vitamin D particularly the increased incidence of rickets in children.

Strategies for tackling the problem:

The solution is really very simple. Take steps to get more vitamin D! In the first instance, if the deficiency is severe, supplementation (sometimes in the form of injections) of vitamin D3 is essential. Thereafter and as a management strategy, dietary measures should be implemented to include foods containing natural forms of the vitamin. In plants, vitamin D exists as D2 and is only really found naturally-occurring in shiitake mushrooms. Most other plant food sources have been fortified with vitamin D. The best sources are from animals: fatty fish (mackerel, sardines, trout, herring, tuna, salmon, pilchards) and egg yolk. Limited use of sunscreens and sensible exposure to sunlight on bare skin (face, arms & legs) is vital.

If you are worried about your vitamin D levels, a simple blood test from your doctor should confirm if supplementation is necessary. Symptoms can also be verified through X-Rays and in some cases, bone density scans to check calcium absorption and mineralisation.

For more information and advice, you can visit NHS Direct (www.nhsdirect.nhs.uk/en) or Patient UK (www.patient.co.uk)

Natural & Herbal Approaches to Eczema

The flower of the Chamomile
plant - renowned for its healing
and anti-inflammatory properties

I have had numerous requests for information on natural approaches to eczema. This stems mainly from the fact that conventional approaches require often harsh treatments and drugs that are steroid based (such as hydrocortisone cream) and if it is particularly bad especially in children, many parents worry about-the long-term use of steroid based drugs over the years. Although topical (applied externally), these drugs are absorbed into the body and often makes the skin thinner over time and may lead to systemic problems later on. Many people also don't realise that eczema requires a holistic approach to treatment and management that involves nutrition, herbal treatments (both internal and topical) as well as stress-management, digestive and immune health.

Eczema is a dry skin condition characterised by patches of inflamed, red, itchy skin. There are small fluid-filled blisters which develop and subsequently burst giving the characteristic ‘weepy’ skin appearance. The patches then crust over. Recurrent attacks lead to scarring and thickening of the skin which changes the colour and appearance of the skin, affecting its integrity and purpose. Severe eczema is very distressing particularly if the face, neck and hands are affected. Many children outgrow this condition and in some it is also accompanied by hay fever and/or asthma as all 3 conditions fall in the band of allergic conditions called atopic allergy.

The herbal approach is to use a range of anti-inflammatories, demulcents and skin restoratives. In this respect, herbs such as calendula cream, chamomile cream or liquorice cream are excellent. Skin restoratives such as centella fixed oil or comfrey cream are great choices. Anti-pruritic creams such as chickweed will prevent the intense itching and will also soothe the skin. Long-term use of topical creams combined in a mixture that includes all these actions will restore skin integrity so that it begins to resemble healthy skin again. Internal mixtures (either tinctures and/teas) that include chamomile, centella, liquorice can also be considered. A good combination for most dry skin conditions is a mixture of sarsaparilla and mahonia. As eczema is an immune condition, a herb such as echinacea is invariably added in order to modify immune responses so that inflammation is kept to a minimum in predisposed individuals.

Owing to the general dryness in the system and the lack of moisture, supplementation of hemp seed oil is highly recommended. This nutrient replenishes the fats that are essential to diet and general nutritional status. Most dry conditions occur in systems that are deficient in these essential fatty acids (notably the omega fatty acids). They are also found naturally occurring in fatty fish (such as salmon, tuna, mackerel, herring, trout & sardines) as well as some nuts (eg. walnuts) and seeds (linseeds, hemp seed and others). It is vital for the skin to have these fats for its healthy state and function. It can be added to smoothies but choose those that are not yoghurt-based as dairy aggravates the condition and be careful about the sugar content in these drinks.

Other supplements such as vitamin C (for wound healing and for general health and vitality of the skin), as well as zinc are also highly recommended. The mineral zinc is an essential part of our immune system and is required to modulate the immune responses in the body. Inflammatory conditions can often result from a deficiency of zinc in the diet and studies have shown it to have a beneficial effect in eczema.

General dietary & lifestyle recommendations in eczema:

• Increase fatty fish intake (good examples are listed above)
• Increase flaxseeds/linseeds. These can be bought from most supermarkets and can be easily sprinkled on top of cereals for a crunchy texture. This is high in the omega fatty acids so it is a good nutrient. Another suitable choice is hemp seed oil (as above)
• Limit all dairy intake especially cheese, milk, eggs, yoghurt etc…
• Try goat’s cheese as an alternative to dairy cheese
• Limit or avoid altogether all junk food – far too many additives and chemicals that could trigger an inflammatory response in sensitive systems
• Reduce red meat where possible and eat more fatty fish & chicken instead
• Increase intake of fresh fruit and vegetables. Go organic & non-GMO whenever possible and go for variety. This will ensure you cover all bases where nutrition is concerned
• Try gluten-free foods – there could be a possible wheat sensitivity
• Plan the weekly food shopping by making a list and spend time thinking about meals way ahead so you have some control over diet and culprit foods
• Limit eating out where possible but once in a while is OK or choose foods that are ‘safe’  (non-culprits foods) on the menu
• Avoid wool and nylon materials in clothing
• Avoid coconut oil, lanolin and coal tar products in all toiletries
• Try almond or olive oil with a few drops of chamomile essential oil (EO) or lemon balm EO as an alternative moisturiser to the skin
• Vitamin E cream or oil is also a good moisturiser for the skin
• Sea salt baths once a week. Or add oatmeal to baths – great for nourishing the skin and an excellent moisturiser for eczema.
• Take regular exercise to boost circulation and the healing process. Exercise will also boost immunity and general health & vitality.
• Consider stress-reduction measures and relaxation techniques. Stress contributes significantly to the condition and can make an existing episode much worse.

 

For further information, contact the College of Practitioners of Phytotherapy(http://www.phytotherapists.org/) or the National Institute of Medical Herbalists (http://www.nimh.org.uk/).

Global Beauty Traditions

The concept of beauty varies across the world and is dictated by the places we live in, cultures we are a part of and traditions we are following. However, in an increasingly globalised world, we are now sharing knowledge and practices more than ever. Beauty secrets are no exception and there are some fascinating insights from around the world, some based on age-old traditions that have withstood the test of time as well as modernisation which combines ancient wisdom with science and technology.

Europe
Various beauty traditions have shaped modern Europe's beauty routines. Some still remain from 

The French actress
Marion Cotillard

biblical times and religion as well as beauty rituals of women which continue to feature in some European countries. Products such as olive oil, myrrh oil, honey and cassis oil were popular treatments in biblical times as were milk baths. Scents of that time included saffron, myrrh, calamus, nard, cinnamon, henna or frankincense. You can find out more about frankincense and myrrh here: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/rapidly-dwindling-stocks.html. Some of these oils and scents continue to this day in western herbal medicine, modern skincare and in perfumery. For instance, myrrh oil is  extremely moisturising, toning, healing and rejuvenating. As far as make-up was concerned, much relied on natural plant pigments, stains and dyes such as those found in beetroot and pomegranate juice. Henna was another useful plant stain and we know it more popularly today as a natural hair colourant and ink for henna tattoos.

Nowadays, there is a pervading theme in skincare regimes in modern Europe although there are notable variations between the European countries. Greek yoghurt is a renowned topical skin moisturiser in Greece. It's a natural source of lactose, proteins, vitamins and minerals so one can see the appeal. It also has a long tradition of use as a treatment for sunburn and various skin problems (of an inflammatory nature). Moreover, the traditional Mediterranean diet of the Greeks also means that they eat plenty of fresh fish (high in essential fatty acids), fresh fruit, vegetables and olive oil - packed with glorious antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and good fats, all of which are beneficial for a glowing skin. It's a similar story for other Mediterranean countries such as Spain and Italy. For Scandinavian women, it's all about water. Not only do they drink about 2 litres a day to flush out toxins but they also splash their face with mineral water throughout the day to revitalise it and to reduce puffiness. Commercial water sprays can be bought in any high street chemist. Swedish women attribute their glowing healthy skin to fresh berries (packed with anti-ageing antioxidants) as well as grilled fish. Of course, it is the home of the sauna and the principle it works on is that the dry, clean heat eliminates toxins from your body by encouraging sweating. In France, there is no defining beauty tradition based on history. However, they are scrupulous about their beauty regime and will invest in good brands and treat themselves to regular facials and pamper massages. They are also fond of the seaweed body treatment which uses heated seaweed to be smothered all over the body. It is thought to relieve stress, soothe tired and sore muscles and pampers the skin like nothing else. However, the underlying principle is one of attitude. The principle of 'less is more' holds true for French women and whilst they will invest in quality products, they don't subscribe to expensive anti-ageing treatments and believe that a woman is most beautiful when she exudes self-confidence.

In Ireland, there has been a long tradition of using seaweed particularly to treat skin conditions. Bath houses of the Edwardian era involved seaweed-infused baths to treat patients with a host of skin complaints. On contact with heat, seaweed releases alginic acid, a silky (mucilaginous) compound of essential oils that soothes, nourishes and heals damaged skin. Nowadays, seaweed is being investigated for its healing properties in psoriasis. All over Europe there are relics of old herbal beauty remedies from nettle hair rinses in the Czech Republic to cranberry juice and lemon juice hair rinses in Spain. In England, cold creams were traditionally and originally used as cleansers because air pollution was pretty bad early last century. Vanishing creams on the other hand were regarded as the equivalent to modern-day foundations as they were easily absorbed and gave a pearly sheen on which to apply face powder or make-up.

Asia

Asia covers a wide area from Russia and the far east to the Indian subcontinent. In Russia, the traditional venik or platza (Yiddish for back and shoulders) involves the use of steam, ice water, intense massage and beatings with fragrant bundles of leafy oak or birch twigs (called veniks). Available at most Russian bath houses, the procedure involves lying in a steam room where the back and shoulders are alternately massaged then  beaten with the veniks before being plunged into ice cold water. The shock to the system is thought to confer a host of benefits: improved circulation, increased metabolism, detoxification, exfoliation of dead skin cells and natural astringent (tones the skin).

In China, there is a culture of using plants for beautifying such as rosemary and green tea in hair rinses and a variety of natural treatments easily available at their many spas. These include the use of pure sea salts to detoxify, the use of milk, yoghurt, papaya and buttermilk as skin softeners and various aromatherapy oils such as ylang ylang, lavender, sandalwood and rosemary not only for their benefits to skin but also to fragrance and beautify. The process of gua sha or 'spooning' is just as revered; literally translated as 'to scrape away fever' has its roots in folk medicine than in beauty. It is performed by applying pressure to lubricated skin with strokes of a smooth, round spoon-like instrument (looks a bit like a Chinese soup spoon). It is thought to eliminate blood stagnation, and help normalise circulation and metabolism, both aspects which influence good skin health. More often, it is used as a treatment for ailments such as chronic pain, stiffness, headache, respiratory function and digestive problems.

The Japanese have had a long and health-based tradition with the sea from eating fish to using sea water, sea salt and seaweed in many of their beauty products. Marine collagen is a sea protein ingredient found in many of their anti-ageing creams. Its origin can either be animal based (extracted from the scales of fish) or extracted from seaweed (plant-based). Seaweed is also a source of other marine-strengthening minerals such as iodine, iron, zinc, selenium and copper. Nori is an edible seaweed species of the red algae and is a rich source of absorbable iodine. The Japanese often use nori-based hair care products as it is said to strengthen and nourish the hair. They boil it up and make an iodine-rich nourishing paste for the hair. Also high on the natural beauty tips list is the white camellia nut oil, widely used by the Japanese women for hydrating and softening the skin. It is especially beneficial for treating pregnancy-related stretch marks and inducing hair growth. It is also a popular ingredient in facial oils. One of the most beloved beauty ingredients of the Japanese is rice which also forms part of their staple diet. Using  rice starch that has been milled into a fine dust, the women use this as face powder because it is great at absorbing oil. Other uses of rice include using the rice bran (the brown outer layer of the rice called the hull) as an exfoliator (it is rich in antioxidants and hydrating minerals). Sake, the traditional wine of Japan made from rice has been long used by Geishas who used to splash it on their faces to eliminate age spots and lighten pigmentation. Nowadays, Japanese women are reported to add a few glassfuls of sake to a warm bath for glowing skin and a detoxifying effect.

The traditional Indian bridal make up

India has an extremely long history of beauty regimes imbued with culture, religion and art.  Given the ancient lineage, their entire philosophy is predicated to avoiding all forms of chemical ingredients and opting for natural beauty treatments. In this respect, there are a host of natural ingredients (not all of them from the kitchen) at their disposal. A range of herbs, spices, food items and dairy products are used in skincare such as turmeric, saffron, milk, gram flour, lemon, glycerine, salt  and rose water. Using saffron with milk to counter pigmentation is a widely recommended beauty tip while honey is used as a moisturiser.

Decorative henna tattoos

However, the trademark hair of women from the Indian subcontinent can be attributed to a combination of unique ingredients such as amla, shikakai and henna, all from plant sources. Amla is used to strengthen and nourish hair, shikakai invariably used as a detangler in hair washes and henna as a hair colourant and conditioner. By far the most popular and widespread product for hair is coconut oil. It has a host of benefits from remedying dry, limp hair, to promoting hair growth and combatting dandruff. The image of a traditional Indian bride is something to behold, with the 16 adornments (an integral part of the bridal beautifying ritual) where the bride is given an oil massage (containing turmeric, gram flour and mustard oil or butter) before a bath containing milk and rose water. Traditional Indian bridal make up involves kohl eyeliner as a must with jewellery for the hair and face as well as the traditional henna or mehndi being decorated as tattoos with elaborate patterns on the hands and/arms and feet (usually applied the night before at the mehndi gathering of close relatives and future in-laws).


Africa
Western skincare and beauty is becoming increasingly influenced by products from African countries but much of the traditions is confined to the local areas, particularly remote areas which is largely dictated by availability of plant products and climate. There are also significant variations depending on region; after all, Africa is a vast continent. From Egypt to South Africa and from Morocco to Ghana, the wealth of raw beauty, cosmetic and skincare ingredients is to be marvelled and cherished. Egypt is renowned for the legendary queen Cleopatra who was favoured to take milk baths laced with honey. She would have probably used camel's milk or goat's milk, both high in fats which would help moisturise and soften the skin. Cleansing action was probably carried out by ingredients such as lime, oil, natron, dead sea salts and water. For perfumery, there couldn't have been more choice - the musks, woods and resins all originate from here and even today, Egypt still boasts some of the most extensive range of perfume oils which continues to service perfume house all over the world. Oils such as frankincense, myrrh and sandalwood are still used today in skincare formulations due to their reputed properties in anti-ageing. You can read more about perfume here: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/art-of-aroma.html As far as make up goes, black kohl was popular as an eyeliner and green malachite as eye paint (which is now easily achieved with green eye shadow powder).

Argan oil has been prized as a great ant-ageing ingredient and given its popularity in the West, the plant from which it is harvested by the local tribes who rely on the tree for their economic survival, it is now classed as endangered and protected by UNESCO. The oil is packed with vitamin E, linoleic acid and beneficial mono- and poly-unsaturated fats, which combine to nourish the skin (and hair). They tackle fine lines, wrinkles, stretch marks and acne scars. It is also a  highly nutritious food ingredient (it's great drizzled over a salad). You can read more about argan oil here: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/exploring-hype.html Another great beauty export from Morocco is rhassoul clay. It is from the Atlas mountain range and is brown in colour but is has been used for more than 1500 years to maintain supple, blemish-free skin for local women. Like all clays, it draws out impurities and modern skincare uses this ingredient in face masks for the same purpose. Its benefits are attributed to high levels of silica, calcium and potassium which nourishes and replenishes the skin even after it has been rinsed off. One of the best products to come out of West Africa is shea butter. Found in ancient tombs, lauded in historical documents and fought over in colonial wars, shea butter has been vital to local economies and countries of the West African region particularly Senegal, Ghana, Mali and Tongo. It truly is like a butter and is extracted from the nut of the shea tree. The butter is popular because it melts upon contact with skin and has a high absorption with minimal oily residue. It's is an essential ingredient in natural skincare products and can be blended in soaps, cleansers and healing salves or balms. It is useful in dry skin conditions such as eczema and can also be used to nourish or moisturise dry hair. In South Africa, the traditional medicine is rooibos tea (low in tannin, caffeine-free red tea). It is said to benefit inflammatory skin disorders such eczema, psoriasis and skin rashes when used as a skin tonic, as well as an ingredient in soaps and lotions.

Caribbean & West Indies
Much of the Caribbean and West Indies beauty tradition is based upon rituals passed on from previous generations and despite the largely Western and modern American influences, two of their staple ingredients in natural skincare is increasing popular all over the world: cocoa (cacao or cocoa bean) and coconut oil. We know cocoa bean for its chocolate but equally, the cocoa butter is processed form it and forma base ingredient for many skincare products. It has a host of benefits including:

• it works as an anti-ageing food and is loaded with essential minerals to smooth out uneven skin tone and to soften the skin
• it melts easily and has high absorption (rather like shea butter and is often combined together in many natural skincare products)
• it has more antioxidants than red wine or green tea
• it works against cellulite and fights free radicals to limit ageing and further fat deposition

The benefits of coconut oil has already been discussed but many women (and men) also consume extra virgin, unfractionated coconut oil for its numerous health benefits. Many from the West Indian islands as well as the Caribbean to some extent have a high regard for nutrition and have a healthy reliance on it to look beautiful. They prefer wholefoods with naturally, home-grown foods, fruits and vegetables which provides plenty of variety. They also utilise local availability and given that choice is so extensive, who can blame them?! Herbs, spices, fresh fruit, vegetables, herbal remedies (such as aloe vera) and a fantastic community spirit. No wonder they look so good!

Australia & New Zealand

Moke - the traditional Maori art of tattoo

Much of the traditional beauty rituals originate from the indigenous populations: Aborigines and Maori, and sadly only a fraction of the tradition has remained due to colonisation.  Emu oil is an old favourite of the aborigines - made from emu fat, it is rich in antioxidants and possesses powerful cell-regenerating properties to thicken skin without clogging pores. The health benefits of emu oil has also been studied, particularly for its anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties. The aborigines also relied on yarrow root oil to treat stretch marks and scarring. The Maori people have a long history of sourcing natural ingredients to heal, nurture and to beautify. From tree ferns (mamaku) to fish oils, they utilise the bounties of Mother Nature. By far the most popular ingredient to come out of New Zealand (and Australia) is manuka honey. It is a food, a health supplement , medicinal remedy and also a skincare ingredient. The Maori concept of visual beauty also involves facial and body tattoos and it is more than skin deep; it is about beauty and belonging.

Polynesia
The wealth of plant and raw minerals in the Polynesian islands is astonishing. The region has had

numerous influences far and wide with regards to beauty and some of the ingredients are only being prized in the West relatively recently. Tahiti, Samoa, Fiji, Bali, Vanuatu and other regions in the Pacific all have similar beauty regimes and cultural norms when it comes to defining beauty. Ingredients such as tamanu oil and monoi de Tahiti are gaining popularity but the locals have relied on these plant substances for many years. Tamanu comes from the tamanu nut and it is prized for its ability as a wound healer and to form new skin cells. In this respect, it can be blended with centella oil for all wounds, cuts and skin problems where healing is required. Another popular substance is oil that has been produced  by soaking a local fragrant flower called tiare in coconut oil. The resultant infused oil is called monoi (de Tahiti because it is from this country). Monoi is prized for its lush, sweet aromatic fragrance and its property for intense hydration (so it's a great moisturiser). It is thought to make the skin glow but also acts as an insect repellent (due to its sweet fragrance - it repels mosquitos) and addresses all scarring due to its salicylic acid content. It is also popular as a massage oil. The fragrances and flower essences also dictate surrounding regions and countries, for instance jasmine is favoured for its delicate floral scent and is a stalwart of many perfumes, scented oils, candles and a variety of skincare products.

Native Americas
There are many ingredients in modern beauty products that were used by Native Americans. Much of this tradition also has its roots in herbal folklore of that region but has been sadly lost due to colonisation and war. What remains today however are relics and a desire to use what is easily available in nature. The Mexicans have been using the cacoa tree as far back as the Aztecs and Mayans and it still holds potent uses today, even in skincare. You can read more about raw chocolate and its benefits here: http://yaso-shan.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/exploring-hype.html The ancient elders discovered the skin care and beauty benefits of plants like aloe vera and jojoba, hundreds of years ago.  Native Americans used aloe vera to soothe and heal the skin, as well as to hydrate and protect it from extreme climates in areas like dry deserts. It was also used to treat sunburn and for soap. Coconut water is another health essential as it prevents dehydration and is packed with nutrients. The Brazilians even splash their faces with it to keep cool. They are also fond of coconut for all the reasons highlighted above and whenever their feet are dry and peeling, they take a good, long walk on the beach as a way of exfoliating dead skin cells and moisturising with coconut oil, cocoa butter or a body butter to keep it smooth and supple. They also use carrot juice as a tan enhancer.

The Middle East
This covers a substantial region and was united by religion, culture and art. Traditional healers were also master perfumers and the Arabs enjoy a long history and tradition with plants, herbs, spices, oils, resins, musks and natural minerals such as sand, rhassoul clay, salt and earth. Today, the region is renowned for its perfume oils and essential oils but it also boasts some of the most widespread herbal medicines and foods. Israel has been using dead sea salt products for years and swear by its mineral-rich substance to detoxify the body of impurities and help cure many skin conditions. It is often combined with other marine products such as seaweed and is used in massage oils and a range of skincare products for its rejuvenating benefits. They are also big on spas (called hammams) where the emphasis is on cleanliness, relaxation and detoxification.

For more information about the history of skincare and cosmetics visit: http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/index.php or http://www.carolthompsonbeautysecrets.com/history-of-skin-care.html

Cardinal Rules for Wrinkle-Free Skin

We all know that ageing is an inevitable process and many factors influence this, not least of which is our genetics and lifestyle choices (to name but a few!). However, there is much we can do ourselves to combat wrinkles and prevent premature ageing. We all know the main culprits of course such as smoking, sun damage, excessive alcohol consumption and a poor diet. But there are a number of other things we can do to stay healthy and to promote a vibrant, youthful skin that can belie our true age:

Combat Stress

We all know that stress is not a good thing. It can cause anxiety which in turn releases abnormal levels of cortisol and adds strain to your adrenals. This can cause fluctuations in hormones which can lead to a number of physiological and immunological imbalances and disrupt the normal equilibrium of your body. This can in the long-term wreak havoc on the skin which reveals signs of stress and adds years to your age, not to mention the other effects such as debility and illness. Assessing the cause of stress is important as is ways in which to manage it. The regenerative lifecycle of skin cells becomes longer as we get older and cells are not renewed as quickly as when we are younger. Our mental well-being also for maintaining skin integrity and suppleness. Stress also dehydrates the skin making it appear dry and flaky, both of which ages the skin appearance. Therefore combating stress is vital for skin health. Try the following stress-busting techniques:

• exercise - great for releasing tension and improving blood flow to the skin surface. This will accelerate skin renewal. It will also help release the body's own feel good factor (endogenous endorphins) leading to lowering of the heart rate and blood pressure, both of which are raised during stress. It should also promote better sleep
• meditation - it is a tried and tested method for an increasing number of people who lead hectic lives. It trains the mind to focus and in so doing enabling the body to relax. there are many different forms of meditation so try different ones until you find something that suits
• tai-chi - this ancient art of exercise also works the mind. many people swear by this for their stress management
• herbal remedies - great anxiolytics include lemon balm, passion flower, chamomile, skullcap and wood betony. They are also regarded by herbalists as nerve tonics and as the name implies will be great at improving the health of the nervous system which lies at the heart of all stress and tension. Other herbs can be prescribed for associated symptoms of stress such as insomnia, tension headaches and poor appetite. It's strongly advisable to consult a medical herbalist before self-medicating

Other practical measures such as making time for hobbies, relaxation techniques include breathing techniques, making time for friends and family as well as taking a few days off for a change of scenery will also help.

Exfoliate 
Skin cells are renewed regularly and have a lifecycle of 20-30days. However, as we age, this process takes longer and can take as long as 40-50 days. Therefore, older skins can tend to lack shine and lustre because dead skin cells are hanging around the surface without being replaced. We can reduce the effects of this by regular exfoliation - that is, sloughing off dead skin cells manually by using a range of exfoliating products such as face washes, creams, foams and body scrubs. Exfoliating will also encourage the regeneration of new skin cells which will improve the skin's appearance, feel and texture. It is not just the face that requires attention, the body also needs regular exfoliation. This will improve circulation as well (if done correctly without too much pressure) and result in a healthy shine to the skin after moisturising. However, be careful of the products you use as you will need to find one that is compatible with your skin type, especially for the face. Harsh abrasives are to be avoided like the plague as this will dry the skin out and delicate skin on your face needs something gentle. Try natural exfoliating substances such as vitamin A crystals, oatmeal, rice bran or jojoba beads. Commercial products that are exfoliating face washes can be good too but opt for more natural products and always moisturise afterwards. 

Get Enough Sleep  
Given the 24-7 culture of modern living, it is no surprise that we are not getting enough sleep. Good skin health is dictated by getting enough sleep as this is the time when the body recovers and regenerates itself. This includes vital functions, our nervous system, skin renewal and replenishing energy stores. It's not enough just to get the right number of hours, as research has shown that the quality of sleep is just as important, if not more so. Therefore, enabling the body to be able to sleep well is a challenge for many people these days given our hectic lifestyles. Many find regular rituals at night time useful such as a drinking something warm like hot milk or relaxing herbal teas such as chamomile, valerian, hops or Californian poppy (all great sedatives). It's not called 'beauty sleep' for nothing - a good night's rest is therefore essential for skin vitality and glow. A lack of sleep ages the skin prematurely and adds unnecessary wrinkles. This is because inadequate sleep  and disturbances disrupt normal hormone balance leading to adverse effects on the skin. The human growth hormone in particular is important during sleep as its secretion is increased when we get enough hours. This hormone has opposing effects to cortisol (the stress hormone) and counteracts all cortisol's ageing effects. As a consequence, it restores youthful skin, builds stronger bones and builds up muscle mass (amongst many other attributes) - all associated with youthful vibrancy and vitality. 

Daily Dose of Water 
Keeping  hydrated is a challenge for most people. we are supposed to drink at least a litre of water a day and more if you are active. Apparently, so many of us are running around dehydrated - and it's not doing our skin health any good! The constitution of the skin is based on water and fat. Without water, much of the health of the skin is compromised. This is also true of fat as insufficient oiliness increases the risk of skin becoming dry, accelerating wrinkles and making skin prone to cracks which can introduce all sorts of toxins into the body. therefore keeping skin hydrated by drinking plenty of water is an essential and easy way to save the skin. The water must be pure and does not mean teas, coffees, fruit juices or other liquids. It does not mean foods either. Pure water means that the body has very little to do in terms of processing it and because it is easily absorbed by cells, the effects are quick and almost immediate. Some people prefer filtered water although tap water in the UK is good enough. Mineral water is not always what it is cracked up to be and don't spend a fortune in supplies as water is water and the body will know what to do with it, and does not discriminate despite the source! A morning detox of hot water with a little fresh lemon will do wonders for the skin, not only in hydration (we lose water during the night despite sleeping) and the lemon will kick start the liver into action and promote detoxification. All good stuff!

Fight Free Radicals 
Modern living, poor diets, environmental pollutants and physiological factors all produce destructive particles known as free radicals. Free radicals are produced as a result of oxidative stress and are associated with disease and illness at one end of the spectrum and a feeling of being 'run-down', functioning at a sub-optimum level and not looking your best, including poor skin health (superficial lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, rashes and inflammation), ageing and wrinkles at the other. Therefore combating free radicals can be one strategy in tackling the risks associated with ageing and wrinkle production. Normally the body has its own innate mechanisms for fighting free radicals (which are often produced as a by-product of normal biochemical reactions and our metabolism). The liver takes its lion's share of responsibility in fighting free radicals but we can help by increasing our antioxidant intake as part of our diet. Antioxidants can be found in foods that are high in vitamins A, C and E as well as green tea, grapeseed extract and supplements of co-enzyme Q10 and acetyl-L-carnitine. Seek advice from a nutritionist to optimise your intake.

Our skins can benefits from external application of products that are rich in antioxidants because they can be absorbed at a local level and penetrate the superficial layers of the skin. Go for moisturisers that contain ingredients high in antioxidants such as oils, fruit extracts, herbal extracts and added vitamins, in particular vitamins A, C and E.

Avoid Toxic Overload: 

Much of our environment is subjected to pollution and with the best will I the world, it is extremely difficult to avoid toxins. It is everywhere from our food, water supply and environment to prescription medicines, alcohol and tobacco smoke. Our digestion, liver and kidneys normally take care of this toxic burden and never let it get to the stage where we feel the impact of toxic overload. However, this relies largely on the optimum health and well-being of these organs therefore we need to look after them by regularly clearing the system of unwanted debris and circulating toxins. It doesn't have to be a radical fast or a savage detox routine requiring you spends lots of money on a detox break. A two-day diet of water and fruit to begin with or drinking smoothies, raw fruits, raw vegetables and cutting out all tea, coffee and carbonated drinks every 6 months will all help.

Cultivate Happiness
Last but not least, the herculean efforts you make won't mean a thing if you are not happy emotionally, mentally or spiritually. Peace of mind is a hard thing to acquire but easily lost due to attitude. Being truly happy is defined by ourselves and bringing serenity into your life will do wonders on your skin, not to mention your health & well-being. It will cosmetically-speaking, take years off your appearance. For more information and advice try reading some of the books by Dr. Deepak Chopra or Louise Hay.